proper stick electrode

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I have a lincoln 225 stick welder and was wondering witch kind of electrode would be best to use to weld floor pans into my 1975 ford f100 and to fill up the holes .
Reply:I would use 3/32 or 1/8 6011 set on the lowest amperage you can hold arc transfer with.  I also would use a copper/aluminum backing on the holes if I could.  I am assuming you are using an ac buzzbox.  Mind you your welds will be UGLY, but you should be able to put enough metal down and then grind it off and have a solid weld joint.  You will be grinding the metal flush so don't get sidetracked on the looks of the weld in the as welded state.
Reply:1/16 6013 and set the weld at 25 which i think is the lowest tap.  you can get that rod at harbor freight as well as a copper backing spoonTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:What Scott said. 1/8" or 3/32" E6011. Floor pans in a truck are not so highly visible, you may get by without grinding.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:For that kind of job the sheet metal is typically overlapped and a combination of plug welding and rivets are used... along with body seam caulking...This is the cat's meow tool for that...flanges and punches the holes for plug welding... use solid steel rivets where you have access to both sides of the joint...and pop rivets like 'cherrymaxes' when only one side it accessible... http://www.harborfreight.com/air-pun...tool-1110.htmlWeldandpower Lincoln 225 AC,DC with Briggs 16hp gas engine.WW2 era Miller TIG.
Reply:Here in Northeast Colorado if we overlap the joint before welding even with seam sealing afterwards enough water accumulates between the overlaps to rust out again in just a few years.  I butt weld the joint using a weld length of no more than 1/2 inch, usually less, then go to other side of patch.  Doesn't take much time and you get a feel for the weld.
Reply:Have  welded lots of floor pans in with OA  before getting wire feed welder.
Reply:If you wanted to avoid the higher rusting rate produced by welding... you could switch to just rivets.... that way you could metal prep, prime, and top coat all of that metal and that protection still be there when you deliver the job...   Also of course the lap from the bottom would need to be on the inside of the vehicle so that moisture being splashed from the bottom would tend to drip off without getting between the joint.Lots of times methods are used and sent out with no long term feedback available...Airplanes and frames  are riveted together for a reason.Weldandpower Lincoln 225 AC,DC with Briggs 16hp gas engine.WW2 era Miller TIG.
Reply:The other option is to solder / lead it in. Usually is faster. Like GBM sezs get the flanging tool and make the patch lapped over. Then you can tin the joint areas with tinning butter, that makes it possible to solder / lead the joint areas. Eastwood still sells the tinning butter. Trick there is have the metals extremely clean and bright before tinning. Sometimes can get away just using Mapp gas. Can pop rivet in the patch nice and tight before hand, grind it all out and plug with more lead. If you do it from the bottom, you can just use a jack to get it up tight with the flange under the repair area. Lots of approaches can be used. Used to use metal out of old washer / dryers for the patch. Lot of it will depend on how big your patches are, what access is available. How much experience you have had doing that type auto body repair, equipment on hand. Lots of this stuff was common before MIG was around big time in auto body repair.http://www.eastwood.com/ew-tinning-butter-1-lb-jar.htmlEastwood also sells a stitcher type welder designed for just doing these type repairs. Used to have special rods (was red in color), now they apparent use mostly standard 1/16" 6013 or 6011. I've got one, used it to do these type auto repairs and other lite sheet metal, works good, attach to your welder. I would try to use the small rods 1/16" will do and as lil heat as possible, if just using the stick welder. Common problem is the burn thru, you can also do the old trick of just putting a smooth brick under the weld area. Best to put it in the oven and bake it a bit to get the moisture out. Jack it up a bit to get it tight fit.  Lots of tricks to the game. These dazes I buy new cars and trucks and don't keep them over 3 years. Repairs are not the fun they used to was, especially if I got to trust that sucker on long trips.http://www.eastwood.com/stitch-welde...ncluded-1.htmlToday there may be a way to just glue the patch in. Technology changing a lot in the epoxy type joints that are possible in areas like auto repairs. Can talk to an auto body shop or maybe a good auto body supply house. Some of that glued in stuff is damn near impossible to remove after the fact.Lots of methods probably can work, lots of options available. Lot of the ideas here can be valid in other posts. Afterward I would undercoat with several coats over the entire work area. Get the good stuff from like a car dealer or repair shop. Comes in a fair sized drums, they should be willing to give / sell you some. Can apply with putty knife(s) about like doing drywall work. Allow one coat to dry good, apply a second thinner one. Don't use that spray stuff or cheap stuff sold in most consumer type stores. Auto body supply houses might also not have the really good stuff.Best of luck with whatever you do.
Reply:I have repaired floor pans in several trucks by welding patches with oxy/acet.  The only problem with that method is you set the undercoating on fire and smokes up the inside of the vehicle!!  So I found that fibreglass worked much better, easier to apply and when finished it left a never to rust again floor.  You buy the fibreglass kits at your local auto parts store or marine supply store.  It really works great!!  Try it the next time you replace auto flooring.  I know its not welding but it works. Bob