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I found some on amazon, both 15 and 18 watt, 48" non-ballast LED tube bulbs... both claim more light output but the question is bulb color/temperature, or "K"they come in 3000,4000,5000,6000 from my experience with HID headlights the 3000K are more yellow, the 6000K almost blue, I'm thinking 5,000K should be good for my shop that is 27'x34', the lights are at 8', hanging on chains about 12" below 2x4 cross members, I have 10, 2-40 watt tube T12 lights now so I am burning 850 watts per hour, good for winter warmth, bad for energy consumption and the light could be better... the older I get the more light I need!So, are 4000K color LED's going to be brighter by a good margin?https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dua...ed%2Btube&th=1Last edited by BruceinLA; 01-25-2017 at 11:46 PM.If you want to learn no one can stop you.Hobart Handler 175 / AHP AlphaTig 200X V4 / HF 95136 Plasma
Reply:leds are bright white regardless of wattage, I replaced a bunch of old florescent bulbs with the leds and am very happy, they are brighter, instant bright no need to warm up,many of the bulbs you can angle the leds inside the tube..also disconnect the ballast, you dont need it and to keep it in will use up more electric..
Reply:Warmer colors like say 2700K will be more in the yellow range, 2700-3000 are closest to natural light. Cooler colors like 4100 are bright white, some 4100 flourescents are called "daylighters". 5000K will be pretty bright white bordering on blue. Hopefully Willie will be around, he is a wealth of knowledge on lighting. Meanwhile here's a handy chart: http://www.westinghouselighting.com/...mperature.aspxMiller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:Check out bees lighting.http://www.beeslighting.com/Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Replaced all my 4' florescent bulbs with the LED-no-ballast ones. Very happy. they're outside and have held up so far. Sourced mine from a co called "earth led"
Reply:I like 6500K lighting, it's like sunlightHave you ever noticed that you can read outside without glasses in the sunlight, but never inside with incandescent light ?
Reply:I replaced all mine, 24 4' fixtures a year ago and it helps a lot with working at night. I went with 4' 110v ballast less led tubes and it was a bit of rewiring to get it all done. No more ballast hum or black goo oozing out of them. You need to pay attention and do some research as to what you're buying. SMD 3528 means 3.5mm by 2.8mm led chip size and there's 5050 which means 5.0mm by 5.0mm led chip size. Also there are 144 or 288 led tubes. I have the 3528 288 led 6000k type and couldn't be happier. I don't heat my shop all the time and they fire right up in the cold.
Reply:I have some around 4k, which I believe is the best overall color. They measure brighter too.Everlast PowerMTS 211Si
Reply:T5 (4100K) overhead sources in our shop since '06. Ample lighting. EasyDay."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:I have gone to direct wire LED in my shop and they work great. I went with the 5000k 2400 lumen tubes.
Reply:I bought the Costco 4' shop lights. First couple were $30.00, next couple were $25.00 and the other six I got for $20.00. Can't be beat for the $$$. Works great in cold weather too. Here's a post from the GARAGEJOURNAL site. They have been around for a while. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=345685
Reply:I wonder if there is not a good standardized test for color temperature. I usually consider 6000 K to be stark, harsh white. I feel I see best at equivalent lumens with stark white, but it is most unpleasant light in a home environment. Incandescent light bulbs would be warmer, say 2700 K. For most middle ground use, I compromise at 4100 K. The LED bulbs (replacement for A bulbs) that I usually use are not rated for enclosed fixtures. I found some at Home Depot that were. I used four at home in some older ceiling lights. They are awful! The box says 5000 K, I feel they are off the scale in cold blue light. Still, everything seems very brightly lit. I wonder if in a shop environment they might be a good choice.WillieAn optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BI wonder if there is not a good standardized test for color temperature. I usually consider 6000 K to be stark, harsh white. I feel I see best at equivalent lumens with stark white, but it is most unpleasant light in a home environment. Incandescent light bulbs would be warmer, say 2700 K. For most middle ground use, I compromise at 4100 K. The LED bulbs (replacement for A bulbs) that I usually use are not rated for enclosed fixtures. I found some at Home Depot that were. I used four at home in some older ceiling lights. They are awful! The box says 5000 K, I feel they are off the scale in cold blue light. Still, everything seems very brightly lit. I wonder if in a shop environment they might be a good choice.Willie
Reply:I'm waiting until they have 8' LED fixtures at the home stores. Then the shop will get a total fresh-up. The harsh white to almost blue of the modern LED's is a PITA in an RV in the middle of the woods. But when you are trying to see if you have a 1/4-28 or M6-1.25 nut in your hand, you can't beat that kind of light!Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:I used the 4' LED lights from Sam's for my new shop build, 6 total, on the bottom of the trusses about 10 feet up. My shop is an enclosed pole barn, and the way they spaced the poles, I think of it as three 12 x 30 bays. I wired them so that each "bay" is on a seperate switch running two lights individually spaced in the center of each half of the bay (using the roof peak as the dividing line), and I am glad I did. The center bay only is enough to light the shop at night to average, to a bit above average levels. All 3 bays at once is like an operating theater! These things are much brighter than the florescents in my old shop, so I did not hesitate to upgrade to them in the old shop when money allowed. (The old shop is an old one car garage built some ways from the house) I save power by having the main area of the shop I am in being well lit if needed, with no lack of lighting in the rest of the shop, as well as having control over the amount of light I want. I don't recall the color rating but it is a very cold white light. I installed them by using ceiling outlets, rather than hard wiring, so that they can be easily replaced if they ever go bad, and with the idea at the time that I could add more if needed, an idea that has quickly gone by the wayside, unless I should go half blind or feel the need to signal high flying aircraft / the international space station. My shop was bult primarily for blacksmiting, so the extra light is unwanted for that, but if I use the lights on the far side, it is not so bad, though I am considering a welding curtain to block some of it. Having the option to really brighten things up when working on other things is very handy. Given the ceiling height difference in the two shops, I noticed that the light they give off (at least these particular ones) is put out in a downward fan effect, the higher mounted ones give more ambient coverage than the lower mounted ones, more noticably than with florescents, but this may be due to the brightness and coldness of the light. I have also noticed that it seems to be less attractive to bugs than the florescents, or especially incandesant bulbs. It does not eliminate them, but it certainly reduces them. I live in Florida, so this may not be an issue in other regions. Given this, I use LED lighting in my outdoor fixtures as well.I don't miss the hum, buzz, delayed start, dust sensitivity, and flickering of the florescents in the least, and the reduced power bill is a nice bonus too. I am replacing all the bulbs in my house with LED's as the old ones give out.
Reply:Incandescent light has an orange tint to it. The box has a code printed on the side of it. Red and yellow ink are more orange spectrum light. The light blue and dark blue are more white spectrum. I like the light blue spectrum for shop lights. You can see better with it.
Reply:Check out the 48" LED bulbs at Costco,price is about $20 for two bulbs. I swapped them for the bulbs in my garage at home and the office in my shop and they are BRIGHT! Color is OK, I think they are 4000K.The good thing about buying them at Costco if you don't like them you can always return it.
Reply:Hobbytime,I disagree. They are not all bright white. I wanted bright white and got a dim blue when I bought some for my RV to save battery time. They provide enough light to navigate the RV at night, but by no means are they useful for task lighting. I flip on my flourescent for that.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Originally Posted by juicecloneReplaced all my 4' florescent bulbs with the LED-no-ballast ones. Very happy. they're outside and have held up so far. Sourced mine from a co called "earth led"
Reply:Personally I like the 4000-4100K labeled LED's regardless of what they really may be. Higher color temperatures seem too blue and harsh. Warmer, lower numbers in the 2700-3500 are too yellow. The price is really dropping on them now, I wouldn't use anything but LED's anymore.RyanMiller Multimatic 200 tig/spool gun/wireless remoteMillermatic 350P, Bernard/XR Python gunsMiller Dynasty 350, Coolmate 3.5 & wireless remoteCK WF1 TIG wire feederMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeOptrel e684Miller Digital EliteMiller Weld-Mask
Reply:Anyone know if they offer grow light ranges? If so, I could light my shop room and tend my seedlings.Jerry30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Got my bulbs at Lowes, cut out ballast but have to get the right bulbs, some will say for use with existing ballast , don't want those. Some re wiring involved but basic. Utilitech, chinese but so far work good, no problem with cold start up, instant on."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:Just put up a few of these T8 integrated 1 foot 6watt cheapies... they aren't bad for light... I actually like the double row T12's I have in one the other areas they're just brighter and I think the watt rating is similar per foot??? These are 17 bux for 10 fixtures... 10 feet so 1.70US a foot each on has it's own little cheezy side switch so you could turn off some of them if you can reach it Not sure if I'll leave these in this room or not they're just not as bright as I like shop lights... even if I put rows every 2 foot across the ceiling
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiJust put up a few of these T8 integrated 1 foot 6watt cheapies... they aren't bad for light... I actually like the double row T12's I have in one the other areas they're just brighter and I think the watt rating is similar per foot??? These are 17 bux for 10 fixtures... 10 feet so 1.70US a foot each on has it's own little cheezy side switch so you could turn off some of them if you can reach it Not sure if I'll leave these in this room or not they're just not as bright as I like shop lights... even if I put rows every 2 foot across the ceiling
Reply:Originally Posted by HobbytimeI dont like those type lights that you cant change the bulbs, and the made in china crap doesnt last that long....if you get em cheap enough then they can be disposable and worth it if they last a year or 2..Originally Posted by ronsiiYeah I know, it's hard to find actual led's that aren't made by the chicoms though... so far I have had decent luck with the 4 foot integrated I got straight from china... I know it was a lot cheaper than buying the same exact thing here at HD for 4-5 X the cost You can certainly tell that even though there will be hundreds of different sellers on ebay,amz,etc... offering the same thing that there are differences in them... depending on who's little 3 and 4 year old chinese kids are building them and where they are sourcing the components... so for about the same price as a single lightbulb at the hardware store that is probably made overseas anyways I can have one of these shorties... not sure I'll be getting more of these as it was just a test order of a few cases anyways they might be decent lights for stock shelves and down aisleways... but like I said not for actual working under... at least how I like it lit for working conditions I ran these for at least 12 years at these shops and the old ones, these are the HO highoutput 8 foot 112watt flourescent tubes. i liked them at the time just because they would start when it was cold inside the buildings , they were way brighter than the typical 40 watt 4 foot tubes and they had the cool spring loaded slide in socket to change em' out... not the funky quarter twist two pin crap some retarded monkey invented!!!Attachment 1724136But a few years ago I started using these 4 foot integrated led fixtures because they were halfway cheap and had decent light compared to the fixtures I was replacing... one downside is they were pretty noisy in RF the newer ones seem better but hard to say if they're just moving the noise to a different band or if they're using more energy wasting linear powersupplies???Attachment 1724137
Reply:Originally Posted by HobbytimeI have dozens of 4 ft florescent light fixtures, Ive just been cutting the ballasts out and wiring for the LED replacement bulbs..works great...
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiI've seen plenty of guys do that and the replacement led tubes that work with the ballasts... I just don't like the look of the fixtures anymore I have dozens of them laying on the scrap pile and have gotten rid of hundreds from the old shops!!! it was like a never ending regime of changing out bulbs every week I was talking to a guy on the radio just the other morning was doing that with 4 foot led tubes, I think he said he got at the tractor supply... sounded halfway cheap too
Reply:Originally Posted by 69sa200Incandescent light has an orange tint to it. The box has a code printed on the side of it. Red and yellow ink are more orange spectrum light. The light blue and dark blue are more white spectrum. I like the light blue spectrum for shop lights. You can see better with it.
Reply:Ordered some boxes of these 12 watt ~7 inch square surface fixtures in 3000K too, again I don't think they have the good extra bright light I like for working but some of the girls don't like the 5-6000k stark white lights so I figured these have a more softer tone to them would be good for workstation lights and just all around supplemental lighting in dark areas. The main issue I have is trying to stay halfway 'code compliant' with them... one of the reasons I got em' was they're just a hare over an inch thick so surface mounting them would be ideal... but then you'd be wiring 120 outside of a box....I could pancake them and only add a little height but I still have the feed wire issue??? unless I lamp cord them all....but that has it's own issues plus I kinda wanted some in one of the cans... on the ceiling.. and that will most likely be 1/2 emt... or I could just redneck it and be done 28bux a case so just 2.80USD per fixture They are actually pretty bright for only 12 watts!Their driver module/stepdown device fits conveniently inside of the fixture so no worries about extra room in a box or whatever for that.
Reply:Razor makes a fixture that looks like a recessed. Holesaw a hole in the ceiling, wire the driver with NM-B or MC cable. Stuff it into the ceiling & snap the luminaire in place. Some offer selectable color temperature.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BRazor makes a fixture that looks like a recessed. Holesaw a hole in the ceiling, wire the driver with NM-B or MC cable. Stuff it into the ceiling & snap the luminaire in place. Some offer selectable color temperature.
Reply:Originally Posted by HobbytimeI have dozens of 4 ft florescent light fixtures, Ive just been cutting the ballasts out and wiring for the LED replacement bulbs..works great...
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiI actually ordered a bunch of those types last week, but I don't know what they use for a junction box... if any... most i see just have a 3-4inch pigtail coming off the driver for hooking on to. I figured I'd just redneck these up since most of the areas wouldn't have sheetrock or similar on the ceiling and they were even cheaper than the surface mount ones.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BDriver is its own box.
Reply:I just replaced 40 tubes in the shop with the some off Amazon. I was skeptical about the Plug & Play claim so I only bought two boxes. I removed the ballasts and used the bypass mode. Not exactly plug & play but I hate electronic ballasts. It has only been a couple of weeks but so far they are working great. Much brighter and a LOT cheaper than my first LED conversion a few years ago.PARMIDA 20-Pack 4FT LED T8 Hybrid Type A+B Light Tube, 18W, Plug & Play or Ballast Bypass, Single-Ended OR Double-Ended Connection, 5000K, 2200lm, Frosted Cover, T8 T10 T12, Shatterproof, UL & DLChttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._title_o01_s00
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireI just replaced 40 tubes in the shop with the some off Amazon. I was skeptical about the Plug & Play claim so I only bought two boxes. I removed the ballasts and used the bypass mode. Not exactly plug & play but I hate electronic ballasts. It has only been a couple of weeks but so far they are working great. Much brighter and a LOT cheaper than my first LED conversion a few years ago.PARMIDA 20-Pack 4FT LED T8 Hybrid Type A+B Light Tube, 18W, Plug & Play or Ballast Bypass, Single-Ended OR Double-Ended Connection, 5000K, 2200lm, Frosted Cover, T8 T10 T12, Shatterproof, UL & DLChttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._title_o01_s00
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireI just replaced 40 tubes in the shop with the some off Amazon. I was skeptical about the Plug & Play claim so I only bought two boxes. I removed the ballasts and used the bypass mode. Not exactly plug & play but I hate electronic ballasts. It has only been a couple of weeks but so far they are working great. Much brighter and a LOT cheaper than my first LED conversion a few years ago.PARMIDA 20-Pack 4FT LED T8 Hybrid Type A+B Light Tube, 18W, Plug & Play or Ballast Bypass, Single-Ended OR Double-Ended Connection, 5000K, 2200lm, Frosted Cover, T8 T10 T12, Shatterproof, UL & DLChttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._title_o01_s00
Reply:Originally Posted by ShootrI did the same throughout the house where existing fluorescents were. Really pleased with them, after almost a year no failures yet.
Reply:Whenever possible I replace the whole fixture. My crew has about 550 fixtures to replace, with about 300 left to do. I only use the by pass in metal and conduit mounted fixtures where replacing fixture labor exceeds cost of the fixture. New fixtures will have better illumination, and heat management, as well as UL FM, and NSF ratings. 2 ft x 4ft ceiling troffer fixtures with edge illumination can be had pretty cheap now ($50-$60) with a 5 year guaranty . Most of my high bay, and low bay fixtures (12k Lumens, and 18K Lumens) already have luminaire disconnects , so replacement is very quick. They are lithonia lighting fixtures, costing about $96, and $118 each. I have a conference room to do with 2x4 troffer fixtures, with low voltage wiring in the armored cable. I'm still looking for a good dimmer with remote. Lutron website isn't all that good, and my supply house guys go cross eyed when I ask about Wi-Fi/bluetooth ability. For bypass bulbs I've been using Eiko, and Halco because thats what my supply house carries. I have been through four lighting replacement cycles now. Changing all Metal Halide, and changing all T12 bulbs to T8 was the first change , then replacing all bulbs and ballast twice, to now replacing with LED. Almost all the outside sodium, and MH fixtures are now LED. Hopefully the LED's will last longer than the than all those Compact Fluorescent Lamps . Promised ten years service for $20 when first offered, never lasted more than 2-3 years in real service, and then were toxic waste to get rid of.I have replaced some 4 ft t8's without removing ballast a couple of years ago in a fixture that was built into ceiling , it's still working , but I remember it being expensive at the time. The bypass bulbs are now about $8 for a 4ft. t8 .LED'S have definitely been a game changer in the last couple of years with prices dropping as low as they have. Sometimes replacing the whole fixture is worth it, sometimes its not. Just buy products from trusted sources, check for listsing (ul, fm, csa), and don't forget to read the instructions.Any links to good remote dimmer would be appreciated.ThanksAirco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:Originally Posted by Hobbytimeleds are bright white regardless of wattage, I replaced a bunch of old florescent bulbs with the leds and am very happy, they are brighter, instant bright no need to warm up,many of the bulbs you can angle the leds inside the tube..also disconnect the ballast, you dont need it and to keep it in will use up more electric..
Reply:Had a ballast go out on one of the 8 footers, so decided it was a good time to try the LED's. Amazon had a damaged box discounted so ordered it. The tired old fluorescent bulbs (12+ years old) look pretty dim in comparison. Had replaced some on the other side with the newer brighter fluorescent so those won't look much different than the LED.Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300
Reply:LED technology has grown leaps & bounds over the last few years. Even fluorescents, now obsolete, had advanced to wide choices in color temperature & Color Rendering Index.Plenty of new LEDs are now available with selectable color temperature ranging from 2700 Kelvin to 6000. Mostly, I prefer 3000.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:In the Winter, I consider my fluorescents to be part of the heating system. In Summer, they're part of the misery index.LED's used to have terrible results in cold environments...........is this still true?
Reply:I have a couple of led flood lights in my shop that start flickering when it's stinking hot. The old 400w mercury vapor hi bay still powers on.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammmLED's used to have terrible results in cold environments...........is this still true?
Reply:The nice thing about removing the ballasts is that I don't have to turn up the radio after turning the lights on. The colder it is the louder they hum. I don't notice so much 10 minutes after they warm up.Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammmIn the Winter, I consider my fluorescents to be part of the heating system. In Summer, they're part of the misery index.LED's used to have terrible results in cold environments...........is this still true?
Reply:I just replaced all my T-8s with 5K LEDs, bypassed all the ballasts. I also added string pull switches to some of the fixtures that I don't need on all of the time, no sense lighting up the whole shop when working in one corner.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:Originally Posted by bead-boyThe nice thing about removing the ballasts is that I don't have to turn up the radio after turning the lights on. The colder it is the louder they hum. I don't notice so much 10 minutes after they warm up. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 15:01:32