Which dry cut saw to buy?

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I've been hearing a lot of people talking up dry cut saws. I've never used one, but if they work as well as it sounds it'd be great to have one around. I do a lot of work with 1"-2" 11ga square tubing and it'd be nice to use it to miter the corners. Like I'd said I've never used one, so I'd like recommendations on which one to buy. Thanks for any help!Also recommendations on which blades as well.-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:I don't understand why they are so popular.  I'll take a horizontal bandsaw all day over a loud, fast spinning dry cut saw.  Blades are affordable and last way longer.  With that said, I have used a Milwaukee dry cut.  It ripped through metal alright, but also though blades equally fast.  My two cents.  I'm sure you'll get plenty of additional responses more along the lines of what you're looking for.  Good luck.Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200Lincoln SP-175 PlusDynabrade 52636Grizzly Lathe + friendsAll in a barn too far awayCertifiably uncertified
Reply:In this dilemma myself. I picked up an old horizontal bandsaw but I cant get it to cut straight yet. The blade walks and leaves an angled cut. I need to do some more adjusting and maybe a better blade. The dry cut saws sound pretty cool and a step above my old sparky abrasive saw. The Evolution saws get mixed reviews. Some love them others hate them.
Reply:I have an old J model Johnson that I just completely rebuilt last winter, and an iron worker so I have  plenty of means for accurate cutting. However, the old Johnsons you have to move the solid jaw every time for mitered cuts. Then resquare afterwards. I'm not going to do that every time I want to miter a piece of tubing so I cut it to length and then trim the miter with a cut off wheel or portaband. This is my reason for wanting a drycut saw, but maybe I should just save my money and continue doing things the way I have?
Reply:Nice saw but how much would one cost a guy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Looks like $1040. Wish I knew someone with some experience with one before shelling out that kind of money.
Reply:I have an array of cutting devices including a Johnson Model J & 5X6 pivot head bandsaw, 3 portabands and a 14" vertical bandsaw and still purchased one of the 14" dry saws from Cleveland Steel Tool at Fabtech. My reasoning, it is quick  cutting on material within its range (<3/8" wall) and simple to carry out for field fabrication. I want to adapt a portable miter saw stand to my saw to make it even easier to transport and have nice support for long material. Messy......YesNoisy........VeryBut for quick straight cuts it is my go to saw. Those who are not experienced with bandsaws and may only have smaller ones will become frustrated trying to achieve a straight cut with a 1/2" blade.The CS Unitec one was at Fabtech also but I could not justify the price having never used one and not knowing if I would like it. I will say that it was a very large saw (they make a handheld version which is kind of scary) and my mag drill from them is top quality so I'm sure the saw is the same.Sent from my SM-G920P using TapatalkTOO MANY TOOLS & NO MORE SPACE
Reply:Depending on your budget and material size a benchtop cold saw or one of those Femi/pivot bandsaws may be more useful.Sent from my SM-G920P using TapatalkTOO MANY TOOLS & NO MORE SPACE
Reply:I've got a Milwaukee 6190 dry cut saw.  It works well.  The problem isn't with the saw, it's with the blades--or the user.It makes straight cuts, even when cutting round pipe at an angle (unlike a bandsaw that may walk on you).  However, it you want the blade to last, you have to use it carefully.  If cutting a rectangular piece, set it up so that the blade starts cutting on a corner and start the cut slowly.  If you start cutting on a flat surface, the blade won't dig in and will just sit there and generate heat until it ruins the blade.  By starting on a corner, the blade will bite and will dissipate heat much better.Finished cuts are cool enough to handle with bare hands, and the surfaces are generally smooth in comparison to other saws.Unfortunately, you may ruin a couple of blades before you master it, and blades are $100.America Needs AMERICA'S Oil!!!"Global warming is the greatest scam in history ...There is no run away climate change. The impact of humans on climate is not catastrophic. Our planet is not in peril."--John Coleman, Founder of The Weather Channel
Reply:I've got a Morse Metal Devil (~$500 on Amazon). It has been a great saw and I use it constantly. I've had horizontal bandsaws as well, they are just too slow for my taste. The dry cut saw is very accurate and can shave a 1/16th off a piece if needed which is impossible with a bandsaw. Like previously mentioned, take care of the blade. I've made several hundred cuts on everything from 1/8"-3/4" material before I ever needed to change the blade. Don't hog through, if you are seeing a lot of sparks, you are going too fast.Miller Dynasty 200DXMiller 252 Miller 250xMiller Syncrowave 250Miller AEAD200 LegendMiller 375 Xtreme plasmaLincoln WeldPak 100Victor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by AKmudI've got a Morse Metal Devil (~$500 on Amazon). It has been a great saw and I use it constantly. I've had horizontal bandsaws as well, they are just too slow for my taste. The dry cut saw is very accurate and can shave a 1/16th off a piece if needed which is impossible with a bandsaw. Like previously mentioned, take care of the blade. I've made several hundred cuts on everything from 1/8"-3/4" material before I ever needed to change the blade. Don't hog through, if you are seeing a lot of sparks, you are going too fast.
Reply:I have one of them slow, crooked cutting, small Jet bandsaws that I dearly hate...Bought an Evolution 15" dry cut saw recently (the expensive one with the cast base and good clamp).It cuts fast and straight - neither of those occur with my Jet bandsaw.Based on my experience so far, I'd buy an even more expensive model from another company when this one wears out without hesitation.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI have one of them slow, crooked cutting, small Jet bandsaws that I dearly hate...Bought an Evolution 15" dry cut saw recently (the expensive one with the cast base and good clamp).It cuts fast and straight - neither of those occur with my Jet bandsaw.Based on my experience so far, I'd buy an even more expensive model from another company when this one wears out without hesitation.
Reply:I personally have a Makita LC1230 12" dry cut saw.  It's one of the tools in my shop I couldn't be without.  Yes a band saw cuts nicely but I like the portability of the dry cut.  Very easy to take the saw to the work instead of the other way around.  I recently picked up an Ellis 1600 so I'll see how my usage goes now that it's in the mix.  As was stated before, cutting angles on a band saw sometimes can be a challenge compared to a dry cut saw.  The Makita has a quick adjusting miter fence which was one of the reasons I bought it.  No tools needed.  Just pull out the retracting arm on the left and hand side and loosen the fence and and then lighten it right back up after changing the angle.  I cut angles with mine all the time.  No clean up on the cuts which is nice, very portable, perfectly true cuts and the blades last a long time.Skilsaw just released a new 12" dry cutter that looks promising.  We haven't had feedback on it yet but plan on doing some hands on testing shortly.------------------------------Miller 211 (transformer)Miller Maxstar 150STLLincoln Precision Tig 225Hobart Handler 135Miller 375 X-treme plasma
Reply:I've got the Evolution Rage 3 Compound sliding Miter saw. You can cut steel with the "universal" blade that it comes with, but the steel blade is SO much better. it when through 5"x2"x3/16" rec tubing without hesitation, 5/8" round bar without hesitation, etc. It's loud, and throws chips pretty good, but other than that it's been a great universal use saw for me and my many different types of projects from steel, to aluminum, to wood. I want to say it was in the $350 range when I bought it 6 years ago.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by JiffyParkI personally have a Makita LC1230 12" dry cut saw.  It's one of the tools in my shop I couldn't be without.  Yes a band saw cuts nicely but I like the portability of the dry cut.  Very easy to take the saw to the work instead of the other way around.  I recently picked up an Ellis 1600 so I'll see how my usage goes now that it's in the mix.  As was stated before, cutting angles on a band saw sometimes can be a challenge compared to a dry cut saw.  The Makita has a quick adjusting miter fence which was one of the reasons I bought it.  No tools needed.  Just pull out the retracting arm on the left and hand side and loosen the fence and and then lighten it right back up after changing the angle.  I cut angles with mine all the time.  No clean up on the cuts which is nice, very portable, perfectly true cuts and the blades last a long time.Skilsaw just released a new 12" dry cutter that looks promising.  We haven't had feedback on it yet but plan on doing some hands on testing shortly.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DI have the makita as well, very nice saw, and the 12" blade hasn't been an issue, as opposed to a 14" blade. Biggest issue with the cheaper bandsaws is the 1/2" width blade. A 1" blade saw like an Ellis will give really nice cuts, including mitres. If going with a dry cut saw, look for the most rigid fence and base. In that department, I think the Makita is the best of the bunch.
Reply:Maybe not better. But I would say the makita is more saw for the money. Less than half the price of the unitec. The clamping plate on the unitec looks kind of light duty, but other features seem nice.
Reply:Thanks for the info! I'm thinking that is the way I should go then! Nice to see 2 people with positive feedback on the same saw. Nice that it's lighter as well. Does it have a quick adjustment for the fence angle? Couldn't find a good picture of how it's locked/adjusted.-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:Yes, real fast and easy to adjust. It doesn't have the jaws to hold tubing 45 degrees from square to the table and vise, but hasent been an issue for me.
Reply:I have the Makita and it is an excellent saw. A nice upgrade from my 4x6 band saw.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DYes, real fast and easy to adjust. It doesn't have the jaws to hold tubing 45 degrees from square to the table and vise, but hasent been an issue for me.
Reply:Well that settles it I'm ordering it today. $423 on amazon prime! Can't beat it...I can't wait to try it next week. I have just the job to try it out on!What's everyone recommend for spare blades?Thanks guys!!-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:'' I have one of them slow, crooked cutting, small Jet bandsaws that I dearly hate...''Oh, come on dave, just get a ELLIS !!! You know you want to !  I used mine to cut the bottoms off couple of oxygen tanks for a gong , talk about a saw !!!Sorry, I just had to rub it in.
Reply:I've had my Makita 12" dry saw for about 11 years,if you need simple cuts that need no deburing its the cats meow.It can shave .010 or less off the end of a piece of material where an abrasive blade would deflect.I built a stand for it with folding "wings" to support shorter lengths of material and added a work stop along with left and right handed measuring tapes.Fabbed a hopper below the saw to direct chips into a 5 gallon bucket.Last edited by kioti; 04-15-2016 at 09:19 AM.Originally Posted by derekpfeiffer!What's everyone recommend for spare blades?
Reply:Thanks for the link on the blades! What applications should the 100T vs. the 60T be used?Thanks!-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:Originally Posted by derekpfeifferThanks for the link on the blades! What applications should the 100T vs. the 60T be used?Thanks!
Reply:Originally Posted by derekpfeiffer What applications should the 100T vs. the 60T be used?
Reply:Originally Posted by kiotiThe saw will come with a 60 tooth blade which is good for general purpose work on thicker materials.I use a 72 or 100 on thin walled tubing .049-.058 4130.
Reply:I'd use the saw for a while before buying a bunch of different blades.I keep a 60, 72 and 100 for spares.Here's a piece of 1" x 1" x 1/8" Aluminum angle I just cut to show the finish it leaves, cut was with 60 tooth Makita blade that has over 500 cuts on 1" x .250 wall dom steel tube.
Reply:Very nice cut! I was just going to order 2 spares but then thought maybe about buying one aluminum blade and the 2 steel blades they offer (60 & 100) this way I get over the $150 for free shipping.Thanks for the help Kioti!-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:For aluminum I use my old Ridgid chop saw with a normal wood blade.  The higher RPM keeps the blade clean. The slower RPM of the dry cut saw tends to load up with aluminum between the teeth and makes a rough cut with a low tooth count blade. My dry cut is only used for steel, I don't like changing blades.Miller Dynasty 200DXMiller 252 Miller 250xMiller Syncrowave 250Miller AEAD200 LegendMiller 375 Xtreme plasmaLincoln WeldPak 100Victor O/A
Reply:I would rather change a blade than go to my other shop and dig out my miter saw. It'd be much quicker and simpler to just swap a blade quick.-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:We've had a Steelmax S14 saw at work for the two years I've been there and a couple before that. It's a Chinese saw, but very solidly built with a heavy iron base and fence. This saw has been used to cut through 1"X4" stainless flatbar, large ⅜" to ½" wall square tube and tons of other stuff. It was the only saw in the shop until we got a horizontal bandsaw about a year ago, now it's pretty much relegated to cutting .065 to .125 square and round tube. Even though all of these saws are supposed to be "dry" saws, I've found having a spray bottle with water based coolant to spray on the blade while making a cut greatly improves cut quality and blade life.
Reply:I went through this dilemma about 2 months ago and I'm not going to lie, I wish I had bought an abrasive chop saw instead of the Evolution Rage that I bought. Even with their steel blades, I have to clean up the cut a small bit. The miter fence is "iffy" at best. And it's a lot easier to use a shop vac to pick up abrasive saw dust than those annoying *** metal chips that get thrown EVERYWHERE with the Evolution. And the dust doesn't get stuck in the soles of your shoes like those chips do. And lastly, blades are easier to get for the abrasive saws. At least here in Dallas they are. Mess up a dry cut blade on a Saturday after 11:00 am? No more cutting until Monday.Big F**king HammerJumper cables & 2 marine batteriesJaws of life
Reply:I have a abrasive saw and absolutely hate it. Leaves such a nasty burr and is not accurate. It ONLY gets used for cutting rebar.I'm not concerned about the blade availability. I will always stock extras and worst case scenario I use my Johnson band saw, one of my portabands, iron worker, or a cut off wheel. It's not like I'm down and out, just may be more inconvenient is all.-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:I have been curious myself about the Evolution compound miter saw (it was in the $400 range I believe) I could see where it would be very useful. However other than that one a horizontal band saw is (IMO) the way to go.  I have an Ellis bandsaw and love it and it cuts straight. My Milwaukee dry cut saw works excellent also but has been collecting a lot of dust since the Ellis arrived. Just my two cents.
Reply:I have the little Evolution Rage compound miter saw, and have found it to be extremely useful, and my go to saw. I had to learn the hard way though about how to clamp things down in it, and not baby the blade too much. There is a sweet spot on pressure for getting the most life out of the blade. Can't say I'm impressed with the blade life though, and am installing a new brand of blade tomorrow that the LWS says will last 2-4 times longer. We'll see.
Reply:Rage2 owner/operator since 2013.  Inexpensive, but mobile and strong enough to cleanly server the HSS, solids, and channel we mainly use.  It's ok.  Until we can allocate enough shop space for an Ellis 1600, a stop-gap measure we are exploring for cutting is to source the Italian made  Femi ABS-NG120XL.  $1.34k on eVilBay.  Inspected the unit at FABTECH'15 and she was nice. tbone550 runs a Femi saw and has shared his experiences with the unit.  Hope'n to connect with him in the near-future and rip some steel.Last edited by ManoKai; 08-09-2016 at 05:42 AM.Reason: nomenclature"Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Originally Posted by Baloo2327I have the little Evolution Rage compound miter saw, and have found it to be extremely useful, and my go to saw. I had to learn the hard way though about how to clamp things down in it, and not baby the blade too much. There is a sweet spot on pressure for getting the most life out of the blade. Can't say I'm impressed with the blade life though, and am installing a new brand of blade tomorrow that the LWS says will last 2-4 times longer. We'll see.
Reply:I just placed an order for the Makita LC1230 today based on this thread.  Tell me I won't regret it...Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo.  Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawWhich brand of blade?Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by Baloo2327The Blades that I got were by Tenryu. Hope they are good. Their expensive enough.
Reply:Just in case any one ever wants to sharpen their own blades here is one way to do it.Here is another guy that does it with out a jig.Here is a fancier way of sharpening the blades.Last edited by N2 Welding; 08-10-2016 at 01:16 PM.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo.  Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:Originally Posted by Baloo2327The Blades that I got were by Tenryu. Hope they are good. Their expensive enough.
Reply:Talked with a fabricator/welder who works in heavy industry. Steel and stainless steel tubing and W beams.  He's  operated his Femi HEM ABS120XL saw hard over the past ~ two years to make 1,200 to 1,300 cuts.  Shop and field work.  Over 80% of the cuts were on grade 304/316 SS tubing.  To date, he's replaced the blade 7 times. Additionally, he's achieved wafer-thin cuts -consistently- to cut washer pieces.Ordered the ABS120XL last night from TrickTools (Pella, IA). We may sell our Rager2 locally for 35 to 40 cents on the dollar.Last edited by ManoKai; 08-11-2016 at 08:01 AM.Reason: source of purchase"Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:I personally prefer a wet band saw.  I am surprised to hear the bad rep about Jet.  I have no experience with them, but they seemed to be a quality product.
Reply:I have (and really love) the Evolution "EVOSAW380" dry cut saw.Its not fair to compare it to a band saw, they are suited for totally different tasks.Since most of my work is mobile or in other fella's shops I need it to be portable. A decent band saw will replace it for most cutting once I get a shop set up but until then my dry cut saw is used a lot.Love the precision of the cuts, the low heat input and the fact that the blade is always 14" in size.Don't like the cost of blades or the metal chips scattered about.But I rarely use my abrasive saw anymore, save it for cutting drill stem pipe and metal who's origin I am suspicious of.Red Seal Journeyman Welder (2003),   Red Seal Journeyman Metal Fabricator (2018),    Welding Engineering Technologist (2005)Pressure - ASME Section IXStructural - CSA W47.1, CSA W47.2Transport tanker - CSA B620Aerospace - AWS D17.1
Reply:Originally Posted by N2 WeldingI just placed an order for the Makita LC1230 today based on this thread.  Tell me I won't regret it...