Telescoping pipe sizes

admin

Anyone have experience with types and sizes of pipe to telescope (slide one inside the other) without binding or excessive slop? Several sizes of DOM tubing would work but DOM is pretty expensive. Sch.40 1” inside  sch.40 1 1/4 seems like it should work with .065 clearance. I’d like to have 3 sections if possible.(pipe inside pipe inside pipe).  I’m looking  to rebuild my stock support stand (100+ pound gear for a base and adjustable height T support),used to support long pieces of material at chop saw, table saw, miter saw, welding table, vise etc.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:Here’s what I use ..https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...5EyYtpWoFqjfWm


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk:
Reply:I like that.I’ll be checking into that!Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:Ouch! That stuff is $10-12 /ft. at HD or Lowes.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:If you use black pipe, you could cut strips of appropriate thickness sheet steel, wrap rings of it around the smaller pipes, then TIG (or plug weld) them in place at various positions along the smaller pipes to take up the clearance. If either of the larger pipes have inside seams, leave a groove in the collars to accommodate the seam. BTW, we ALWAYS need PICTURES of what is being built,  or modified or even just discussed!
Reply:Google telescopic steel tubing.You will probably have to order it online, you won't find it at a big box store.
Reply:

Originally Posted by jpump5

Ouch! That stuff is $10-12 /ft. at HD or Lowes.
Reply:You probably already know this, but usually the seamed pipe (round or square) is a pretty sloppy fit unless you add shims like Oldiron suggested.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:

Originally Posted by Lis2323

Here’s what I use ..

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:

Finally got a pic to load.Threw this together about 20 years ago.Materials came from scrap metal dumpster where I worked. Works well , but I’d like more range of height and to get rid of some really hacklooking welds.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:

Originally Posted by whtbaron

I have spare batteries too close to the bandsaw as well. I'm thinking I really need to build a rack to get them off the floor and away before an errant chunk of cut steel decides to short the terminals or puncture a case...
Reply:

Originally Posted by jpump5


Finally got a pic to load.Threw this together about 20 years ago.Materials came from scrap metal dumpster where I worked. Works well , but I’d like more range of height and to get rid of some really hacklooking welds.
Reply:Never used that type. I have used tripod type and decided I like a heavy baseMiller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:I used square tube for the inner part, as the clamp bolt pushes it into a stable position against the round ID. Similar to yours but lighter, with a brake-rotor base.
Reply:Has anyone mentioned all thread yet? Get two nuts and space them out by about 8" or so, weld them to something, maybe to the ends of a piece of tubing. Use the all thread for alignment when you weld it. It almost certainly will be a too-tight fit after welding. Use valve lapping compound on a bolt and work both nuts (that's what she said...) with an impact wrench or drill. Weld a piece of tube to one end of the tall thread. Weld a steel spigot to whatever you want the top to be. Weld a nut on the threaded rod somewhere along the length with a washer on either side of it so you can adjust it up and down with a wrench. Threaded Rods, 1"-8 Thread Size, 3 Feet Long https://www.mcmaster.com/98841A038https://www.mcmaster.com/90977A038Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:Oh, OOPS. I had a brain fart. My last suggestion is way over complicated. (It does work, though. Ive done it)Get some all thread, weld a bar on the top as the material rest. Get a piece of heavy wall tube that all thread fits pretty well. Put a nut at the top of the tube. Weld together. Weld other end of tube to base plate. Then just thread the allthread into the tube.Thread it up and down to adjust height.1" all thread isn't expensive.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:

Originally Posted by 52 Ford

Oh, OOPS. I had a brain fart. My last suggestion is way over complicated. (It does work, though. Ive done it)Get some all thread, weld a bar on the top as the material rest. Get a piece of heavy wall tube that all thread fits pretty well. Put a nut at the top of the tube. Weld together. Weld other end of tube to base plate. Then just thread the allthread into the tube.Thread it up and down to adjust height.1" all thread isn't expensive.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:

Originally Posted by Lis2323

i would make the nut "floating".

i would get annoyed having to remove the workpiece to spin the materialrest. * not because i'm old.  i'm just easily annoyed.


Reply:Get yourself some scaffolding levelerers. Made to fit fairly good inside of schedule 40 pipe, 1.25" i.d. , I believe. Comes with a good sized T nut to fit the acme thread. Mine are built with some scavenged belt conveyor rollers on a tripod type base with 1" square tubing welded to the the schedule 40 pipe. Correction, I believe it's 1.5" schedule 40 pipe. I bought the scaffolding levelerers at Menards.
Reply:ACME rod would wind up and down a lot faster, but by the time you buy the rods and nuts it gets pretty pricey too. It would be ok for fine tuning a height, but if you have a lot of adjustment and variation in height, it would be annoying and slow. I'm thinking like the drop leg jacks that use both the holes and thread. Come to think of it, I've bought those sidewinder style jacks on sale for around $45 and you could weld the holder and base to it.... by the time you buy everything to make it the way you want, that just might be cheaper.Issue I can see is what do you need for a minimum height? Putting the work piece base above the handle with enough clearance for your knuckles puts it around 32 to 35" depending on the jack...Last edited by whtbaron; 4 Hours Ago at 10:59 PM.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:

Originally Posted by whtbaron

ACME rod would wind up and down a lot faster, but by the time you buy the rods and nuts it gets pretty pricey too. It would be ok for fine tuning a height, but if you have a lot of adjustment and variation in height, it would be annoying and slow. I'm thinking like the drop leg jacks that use both the holes and thread. Come to think of it, I've bought those sidewinder style jacks on sale for around $45 and you could weld the holder and base to it.... by the time you buy everything to make it the way you want, that just might be cheaper.Issue I can see is what do you need for a minimum height? Putting the work piece base above the handle with enough clearance for your knuckles puts it around 32 to 35" depending on the jack...
Reply:Scaffold levelers are 34$ at Menards with the large leveling nut. Threaded rod large enough would probably be more$$. Those levelers are 18" long, so plenty of height adjustment.
Reply:I've got a couple of those light folding ones too, but I tend to use them around the drill press to support large pieces rather than anything I am actually working on. As you can see, one of those jacks also made it under my old drill press table.

For places like the bandsaw, I also used a section of rollers on a frame I cut down to the right height of the saw.

If you do decide to look at the jacks (which I doubt because I don't think you'll like the minimum height), make sure you are pricing the sidewind and not the topwind versions for what you want.

The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:

Originally Posted by jpump5

Anyone have experience with types and sizes of pipe to telescope (slide one inside the other) without binding or excessive slop? Several sizes of DOM tubing would work but DOM is pretty expensive. Sch.40 1” inside  sch.40 1 1/4 seems like it should work with .065 clearance. I’d like to have 3 sections if possible.(pipe inside pipe inside pipe).  I’m looking  to rebuild my stock support stand (100+ pound gear for a base and adjustable height T support),used to support long pieces of material at chop saw, table saw, miter saw, welding table, vise etc.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Lis2323

You say DOM is pretty expensive but you only need a foot or two of the inside tube and less for the outer piece. I would just buy what you need and do it right. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk