|
|
I finally got enough of everything together to spark up an arc, I have a few projects that i've been piecing together in preparation for this. You wouldn't believe how hard it's been to not only get the all the pieces together but also expensive. I spent another 1k on tanks.1st one is 1" square tubing with 1/8th" wall, the configuration is a butt joint. I'm welding 4 of these sections together in a rectangle, the subframe is for a smoker.Second is the framework for a table, legs are the first to assemble since I don't have the top yet. Leg pieces have 18 gauge wall, 2x2, butte joint. - So pre-amble aside, would pulse autoset be safer for a first time mig attempt? I don't have any spare metals to test it on, so i'm going with the "f--- it, doing it live" move.
Reply:Based on the information Louie has provided/mentioned regarding pulse MIG with his Miller, I would venture to say no, pulse autoset would not be a wise choice for a first timer without a lot of spare/scrap steel to practice on first. It seems Miller's pulse requires a good bit of finesse'ing (with some of the settings) to actually get it right.
1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!
Reply:If you want to try short circuit welding with either 75/25 or 90/10 gas, then yes, the autoset settings work great. If you are going to try and use pulse with the autoset, then it will make very serviceable welds, but it will likely cause some spatter. I know you said you had no spare metal, but if you did, it would be wise to burn some practice joints to see what settings work best (if you want to achieve that perfect, spatter free pulse mig weld). I have posted a number of posts on this as I have experimented with it to teach myself to weld with pulse. The nice thing is at those thicknesses you don't need to weld vertical up. You can weld them vertical down and use the same settings for flat as vertical down for the most part. Inside corner joints might require a little less arc length (a setting you can control) than the flat welds. The net of all my experiments has been that my machine likes to have the arc control setting turned up a bit in order to achieve a good pulse weld with no spatter. The default setting is 25 on a 0-50 scale. I find that 1/8th material likes to be about 35-40 on that setting. All the other auto set settings (arc length/WFS) are OK as recommended. Also, you CAN NOT adjust the arc control while in autoset. You have to go fully manual. I would start off in autoset, see what it recommends for WFS and arc length, then switch to manual mode, dial those settings in and then manipulate the arc control setting until you get a result you like. If you are dead set on the so "f--- it, doing it live" move, I would start with an arc control setting of 35 and adjust on the fly as you go. Start with the welds that won't be visible, so if there is a little spatter it won't matter. Good luck!! I have to say I am still loving this welder, despite the fact that autoset isn't great for pulse on 1/8th material. I am hoping it is a firmware update that Miller will make some day.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:PS I just noticed you are also doing some 18 gauge stuff. For full disclosure I haven't welded that thin with my welder yet. But I have a feeling you will need to adjust the arc control upward for the thinner stuff as well. Pulse autoset on this machine (in my experience) works really well for quarter inch material and thicker. The thinner stuff seems to need the hire arc control setting, which has the effect of increasing the pulse rate on these machines. As you increase the arc control setting you can hear the sound of the arc going higher in pitch.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:It's going to be different if you manipulate the gun, holding a straight stringer bead where you only drag the weld will make a colder weld as opposed to intentional manipulation. Some describe a series of cursive e pattern will put more heat into the weld. Joint orientation is also important. Vertical is where I wonder if pulse would be nice. I tend to weld down on 18 gauge.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Vertical is where I wonder if pulse would be nice. I tend to weld down on 18 gauge.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Louie1961
Bill, I have come to think of pulse as a cleaner, more convenient substitute for dual shield. Its not quite a 100% replacement for dual shield, but if you need to weld up some steel that is too thin for short circuit MIG, you can switch into pulse mode, and virtually not have to change anything else. Because I run 90/10 gas for short circuit and pulse, and I use the same ER 780S6 wire for both, welding up 3/8th or half inch material become just a quick setting change. Pulse MIG is super hot, and you will burn the back of your gloves just like with dual shield. There is really no doubt that it is burning in there. Pulse spray with ER70S6 is not as productive as dual shield or metal core wires, so for bigger projects I would likely switch over. On the thinner stuff, I personally think it is a push as to whether pulse or short circuit is better. Both make sound welds if you know what you are doing. Pulse has the potential of giving you spatter free welds, but it takes longer to dial in. Not so much with pulse. Because you are in spray mode, it is awfully hot already. No need to manipulate to put more heat in the weld. Stingers are going to be preferred to help maintain the correct arc length. Manipulation messes with the synergic function of the machine and can cause spatter. The exception is going uphill. The puddle needs some manipulation when going uphill to keep it from piling up and getting "ropey"
Reply:@ Willie B - I think its time to polish up that MM252 and sell it to a Flatlander Gentleman Farmer, and buy a new Miller MultiMatic 255. You need to keep up with the technology, just tell Mrs. B everybody else has one. Your MM252 must be cursed, I've run all sorts mig machines(cheap ones, and expensive ones), with every type of wire (stainless, sibr, flux core, dual shield, stainless flux core, harbor freight 70-s6, harbor freight flux sore .030, .023 70-s6 etc...) and only ever had a hand full of birdnests. Usually its when I forget to do something simple like put the right size tip on when going to a larger size wire, or forgetting to tighten connection when changing guns, or trying to run 4043 wire through a 20 year old steel liner. If that machine is really that cranky, its time to get a new one, especially because generators and ductless split a/c units are only getting more popular.Good Luck !Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60DPrimeweld 225 ac/dcPrimeweld mig180Miller AEAD-200
Reply:
Originally Posted by albrightree
@ Willie B - I think its time to polish up that MM252 and sell it to a Flatlander Gentleman Farmer, and buy a new Miller MultiMatic 255. You need to keep up with the technology, just tell Mrs. B everybody else has one. Your MM252 must be cursed, I've run all sorts mig machines(cheap ones, and expensive ones), with every type of wire (stainless, sibr, flux core, dual shield, stainless flux core, harbor freight 70-s6, harbor freight flux sore .030, .023 70-s6 etc...) and only ever had a hand full of birdnests. Usually its when I forget to do something simple like put the right size tip on when going to a larger size wire, or forgetting to tighten connection when changing guns, or trying to run 4043 wire through a 20 year old steel liner. If that machine is really that cranky, its time to get a new one, especially because generators and ductless split a/c units are only getting more popular.Good Luck !
Reply:
Originally Posted by Willie B
I believe you are correct. Only worry is I buy a MM255 then still have the problem, what then?
Reply:What gas are using and type and size of wire do you have?Dave
Originally Posted by XMilitary
I finally got enough of everything together to spark up an arc, I have a few projects that i've been piecing together in preparation for this. You wouldn't believe how hard it's been to not only get the all the pieces together but also expensive. I spent another 1k on tanks.1st one is 1" square tubing with 1/8th" wall, the configuration is a butt joint. I'm welding 4 of these sections together in a rectangle, the subframe is for a smoker.Second is the framework for a table, legs are the first to assemble since I don't have the top yet. Leg pieces have 18 gauge wall, 2x2, butte joint. - So pre-amble aside, would pulse autoset be safer for a first time mig attempt? I don't have any spare metals to test it on, so i'm going with the "f--- it, doing it live" move.
Reply:.35 wire ER70 S6, I haved c10 and c25.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Louie1961
Bill if it helps, you are welcome to come spend the day playing with my machine. At least that way you can figure out if it is the welder at fault or if it is operator error. Thomaston is about a 3 hour ride. Take US 7 to State Route 8. Pretty simple to get here really. Bring a bunch of different wires to try out, and some stuff to weld on. Just let me know in advance so I can order the correct size contact tips for the wire you would bring. I have plenty of C10 and CO2 here. If you need something else, we'd have to discuss.
Reply:I have a dirty piece of dirty rusted 1/4" steel plate that literally fell off the back of a truck one day years ago. i hanged onto when i found it while out walking the neighborhood.
I ran some stick on it, it seems to love 6011, 6010 not so much. 1/8th 7018 it was having trouble starting but flowed very well. (My stick drawer is almost entirely lincoln stick btw, I have a drawer full of mostly 3/32 and a small amount of 1/16th for spot fixes)Ran out of time to test 7014 today. I got startled by somebody walking up behind me when i was testing the mig gun and i buried the gun into the test piece, it fused with the tip.
I had to go visit airgas and see if they had any spares, luckily for me they had one bag. Only one, and it's not one they normally stock, I thought that was weird. I'm sure my settings aren't dialed at all but I did get easy slag peel off the 1/8th 7018 on a short run i did. It wasn't banana peel easy like you see on YT but it came off effortlessly with a chip hammer, I was pleased. My typical thicknesses range from 18 gauge to 1/8th wall and t-joint / butt joint for welds. Rare exception might be the 1/4" I was playing with.So maybe i've asked before but isn't there a burn back mig setting on this?Any suggestions for ranges of amps for mild steel you've tried that work well for stick?
Reply:So maybe i've asked before but isn't there a burn back mig setting on this?
Reply:#humblebeginnings
Not the most cosmetic weld but I consider it to be respectable for first attempt, and am well aware i have a long ways to go.At least I'm on my way to finishing my legs for a 24"x24" weld table.C10 Autoset Pulse, 220 IPM - 60 arc length - 1.9mm wallVery little if any spatter but I did grind off any contaminants on the joints beforehand.I will pick up some class time at the local voc tech college when slots open up next year.I appreciate the help you guys have been giving me FYI.
Reply:Thats quite a noob machine. Se eif you can figure out how to dial it down and if you are building something you got to look at for a long whiloe might as well learn to grind while you are at it and that wouldnt get a notice flushed off with some paint. beauty of solid wire feed is can go right back over ti fill it. Thats low enough a guy could bout cover it but I am a spatter cleaner, try to leave it paint ready or sandable anyway. blast the snot off and go back over.Last edited by Sberry; 10 Hours Ago at 05:47 PM.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by Sberry
Thats quite a noob machine. Se eif you can figure out how to dial it down and if you are building something you got to look at for a long whiloe might as well learn to grind while you are at it and that wouldnt get a notice flushed off with some paint. beauty of solid wire feed is can go right back over ti fill it. Thats low enough a guy could bout cover it but I am a spatter cleaner, try to leave it paint ready or sandable anyway. blast the snot off and go back over. |
|
发表于 2022-9-16 15:52:29