Gate for a Dumpster Cubicle

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Hey guys, so I might be fabricating a gate for a cinder block dumpster cubicle. It's for a couple restaurants that are located RIGHT on the beach, and the general manager lady (more like general pain in the ***), doesn't have a clue what she wants. She's given me no real idea of what she wants it to look like, other than she wants the dumpsters to be covered for cheap, she wants it to look nice, and she mentioned wood lattice (wtf?).I'm new to fabricating, but I have a pretty decent amount of welding experience from school, and a couple ****ty production jobs.So, can anyone offer some advice on a good way to go about this, as economically as possible, but still nice looking? This would be my first fab job, so I really want to do a quality job, and maybe do more things like this in the future.As it stands now, it's a 3 sided cinder block enclosure consisting of two 6' foot side walls, and a 16' back wall, so there's room for 2 dumpsters side by side. The gate I need to make would be about 16' across, to cover the front.I'm thinking of using some angle iron to make a couple frames, and bolting on some wood 1" by 4" or so slats, to fill them. So 2 doors that lock together in the middle, and maybe a caster on each of the bottom corners for support. I'd like to use steel, but because this place is located 10 yards from the sand, I'm worried about it rusting out.Any suggestions on this, would be GREATLY appreciated!
Reply:Whatever you make, keep the dimensions handy because dumpster trucks tear gates up like no tomorrow.  Might as well not have to pull measurements a second time.  The gates I've worked on have all been made of 2" x 1/8" angle, improperly braced, and just generally cheesy.  Then self-tapping screws are used to hold on whatever fascia is wanted.  Nothing about them is square or plumb (low bidder got the job, don'cha know), but because they're made of such flimsy stuff, they bow and bend into the appropriate needed shape in order to latch shut.  Hope that adequately describes what you need to make.  


Reply:i would suggest setting posts.  I would set posts in front of the walls instead of between them.  Good latch system and strong dogs on both gates. no casters.  Perhaps, a way to keep the gates open. Much damage is done when gates close as drivers are backing up towards closing gates. Show her what you will do, so you can get to work. Snap some photos, give her a price.
Reply:"RIGHT on the beach" might trigger Zoning and Code guys involvement - even for the gates.If they have guidelines or requirements, they are usually pretty good, based on years of hard use.
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Basic,3"x.25 angle12g sheet with x break for stiffness4" angle through bolted with allthread, DO NOT USE WEDGE ANCHORS they will not hold, block is to soft.esab 260 multimasternew tech 150 invertorlincoln 140 cheapo
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2"x.180v angleSheet metal roof sheet.esab 260 multimasternew tech 150 invertorlincoln 140 cheapo
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3"x.250 angleStructual floor sheeting. Floor sheeting only comes in short lengths, 5/6 foot.esab 260 multimasternew tech 150 invertorlincoln 140 cheapo
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3" angle1.5" flatbaresab 260 multimasternew tech 150 invertorlincoln 140 cheapo
Reply:How ever you make these gates run either a flat bar or cable from the top hinge area to the bottom floating end of the gate to keep it from sagging over time on the inside.Klutch 220si mig , stick, and dc tigHobart 140 AHP ALPHA 200X 2016Lotos LTP5000DSmith O/P
Reply:Lots of nice looking gates.  But I agree with whoever mentioned setting posts, rather than attaching the gates to the block walls.  Most, if not all, of the examples show are narrow gates; not the 8' wide panels that you're planning on.  The moment arm of an 8' gate will not be well supported by most freestanding cinderblock walls. Not unless that wall is filled with grout and lots of rebar that's anchored into a solid footing.If you don't know how the cinderblock walls were constructed, I wouldn't rely on them to carry the weight of your gate.I'll second checking with the local building inspector too see if there are any community regulations governing appearance.  Barring that I'd copy a similar gate in the same neighborhood.That close to the coast, I'd go with hot dip galvanized materials for the whole frame and cedar or redwood for any wooden planks or panels.  Notice none of the other gates use wooden panels/planks to fill the field.  Wood is heavy, especially when it's wet, and prone to rotting.Look at using a centerpost where the gates meet instead of gate pins that drop into holes in the ground.  The holes will fill with sand and the gates won't close solidly.  The downside to the center post is of course someone backing into it and wrecking the whole setup.A 4 panel gate with a centerpost might be less expensive overall.  You've just the one post to set, and the load on it is largely counter-weighted by having two symetrical gate panels hanging from it.  The narrower panels on the outside could be safely hung from the block walls.You're customer is looking to pinch pennies; so the amount of work you put into selling her a solution is something only you can judge. How desperate are you for the work and how much "free" design time will sink into the project.  If you're not an engineer, how much risk will you accept for doing the design and any future problems that might arrise?  This is a strong reason for copying another gate you've seen that's worked well for a long time.  If you can't/won't do the engineering you need to copy someone else's design.  Guessing will often leave you holding the bag if the design or the fabrication fails.Just realize that the foundation for two wide-panel gates is not to be underestimated.  To set proper posts you might be looking at pouring a concrete footer in order to solidly anchor the posts and keep them from moving under the weight of the gates.  How much weight is too much?  I don't know and I won't guess.  But that's my business philosophy.Casters or wheels on the gate panels might be  a cheap solution.  But they only work if the ground is very flat and level.  Any slope and they either bind up or provide no support.  BUT, you might be able to cheat fate if the ground IS flat and level.  This might enable you to design the panels hinged from the wall; if you can support the bottom center gate panel corners with wheels or casters.Last edited by A_DAB_will_do; 06-08-2016 at 07:44 AM.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:No need to drill holes in the ground for the dogs.  You can create an above ground receptacle.  Just try to eliminate object for the drivers to hit.
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6x6 post2x3x.180Welded small angle tabs to mount 2x4 wood top/bottom rails to attach fence boardsesab 260 multimasternew tech 150 invertorlincoln 140 cheapo
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Matches from earlier pic3"post6" butterfly hinges3" x.180 angleesab 260 multimasternew tech 150 invertorlincoln 140 cheapo
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Ok, here's a picture finally. Found out today that it's the city that's telling these guys that the dumpsters need to be covered, so I think I'm good as far as any city codes. You guys have helped a ton, thank's for all of your responses on this!
Reply:Oh man, thank you, so much good info here! So casters are out, and gate pins into the ground are out. Your center post idea is probably my best bet. The wood on the building is redwood and there's more than enough extra, so I'd like to use that but I'm unsure if the wood shop I'm sub contracted under is willing to give any up. The wood slat idea might be my best bet because the shop has material on hand, but if it's not enough, I'll go for some corrugated galvanized sheet. But now that I'm thinking about it, I'm wondering if I'd be able to get away with using smaller angle iron if I use corrugated sheet instead of wood, because it would be lighter. I REALLY want to use galvanized, but I'm concerned with cost, and to be honest I've never welded galvanized. I assume that the welds will rust, should I seal it before painting it?
Reply:Best check with city planning before proceeding. I've built several of these and most have a standard design that must be followed. Being as you said the city told them to enclose it most likely permits will be required. Just hate to see you wing it then get hung out to dry when it doesn't meet code. You should be able to find the spec if you search your cites building codes online. I know Ventura, Santa Barbara and Los Angeles are all available, can imagine Orange County isn't.
Reply:http://www.cityoforange.org/civicax/...px?blobid=2978
Reply:Since they allowed the chain link for the prop tank id do that with color matching privacy slats. 4" center post2 pair short doorsWill be 99% galvanized And, you dont even have to build them. Sub out to a fencing/gate shop. Set post give opening and slat color, pick up 2days later and hang.esab 260 multimasternew tech 150 invertorlincoln 140 cheapo
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Originally Posted by 32Jim

Best check with city planning before proceeding. I've built several of these and most have a standard design that must be followed. Being as you said the city told them to enclose it most likely permits will be required. Just hate to see you wing it then get hung out to dry when it doesn't meet code. You should be able to find the spec if you search your cites building codes online. I know Ventura, Santa Barbara and Los Angeles are all available, can imagine Orange County isn't.
Reply:Unfortunately the shop I was going to sub under, gave them a quote before I could get a quote for all of the materials, and the owner thought it was too high (which it was). She's contacting a chain link fencing company instead, and is probably going to end up paying more in the end. So no gate job for me, and her loss. My gain in the end though, because I got a full time job for more money at the shop next door to the one I was going to sub under!Thanks for all of your input guys, I really really appreciate it!


Reply:Does any of the floor sheeting come not galvanized. Can a paint adhere successfully for years to come.. Thanks for any input..