Best Drill Bit for 1" Diameter Hole in 6x6 Angle - 3/4 Thick

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Trying to help out a customer - he's making some forklift toe kicks and I can get the steel just fine, but the supplier doesn't drill angle.I have an old 1/2" hand drill that'll do the job, but what's the best bit to use? Annular, hole saw, twist bit?I'm thinking 250/300 rpm with oil?  Don't be shy about any and all suggestions.Thanks!Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
Reply:Annular cutter but you are not going to hold it with a hand drill unless you make a weldon to drill chuck adapter. If you do this make a pilot hole for the annular cutter pilot. Or find a friend with a Bridgeport, the annular cutters will fit in a 3/4" collet for what you are doing. Or rent a MAG drill.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
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Originally Posted by TJS

Annular cutter but you are not going to hold it with a hand drill unless you make a weldon to drill chuck adapter. If you do this make a pilot hole for the annular cutter pilot. Or find a friend with a Bridgeport, the annular cutters will fit in a 3/4" collet for what you are doing. Or rent a MAG drill.
Reply:If you only have a few holes to drill and your 1/2" drill motor is reliable and slow-speed, using twist bits in stages, maybe 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and finally 1" (the last two being reduced-shank) would work, if you're careful and control pressure so it cuts but doesn't grab. If you had to buy all the bits, it might not be the cheapest. Are the holes for pins, bolts or something else and how close should they be to 1"?I don't have a business, but likely have bits I could use on my Bridgeport and could use a boring head to get off-size holes, if wanted.
Reply:Please post a photo of first and last hole drill using hand drill. They say a BP mill will drill a 3/4" maybe if you do it slowly 🐌 . I had drill press that was 3 hp and could drill a 1" hole. Today I use a 3/4" mag drill on top my welding table. Dave FYI I have had employees drill 1 holes they lasted about 3 holes then the drill motor spin them around until the cord unplug as run trying to plug.

Originally Posted by Shootr

Trying to help out a customer - he's making some forklift toe kicks and I can get the steel just fine, but the supplier doesn't drill angle.I have an old 1/2" hand drill that'll do the job, but what's the best bit to use? Annular, hole saw, twist bit?I'm thinking 250/300 rpm with oil?  Don't be shy about any and all suggestions.Thanks!
Reply:Torch with a template. Otherwise,  drill press or mag drill with holesaw or annular cutter.  Hole is fine if can keep rpm’s low. Takes longer than annular but cheaper startup.Or find somebody to punch the holes.
Reply:Yup Smithdoor "they say", the they is me. I have done it, and yes it is true it works great.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
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Originally Posted by smithdoor

FYI I have had employees drill 1 holes they lasted about 3 holes then the drill motor spin them around until the cord unplug as run trying to plug.
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Originally Posted by tapwelder

Yep.  After the cord wraps around your arm , twist your arm and causes you to tighten your grip on the trigger. Hopefully it comes unplugged.
Reply:It was an old 1/2” black n decker drill.   Hence, the sign I candleof 1/2” or a bit that will break more readily.  I have never had a broken finger or wrist.  However I wasYounger.  Pain and frustration, yes.
Reply:No fun either way. IF you use a hand drill position yourself properly, grip the tool securely and consider the direction of rotation before you pull that trigger. Personally I would decline the job  if I didn’t have access to a mag drill.:
Reply:Sounds like the perfect opportunity to pick up a mag drill and an annular cutter. Otherwise I would look into bridge reamers or hole hawg type bits which are meant to enlarge a hole. Stepping up reamer or hawg sizes would enlarge the holes quickly without grabbing that a twist drill would.
Reply:not to mention the smile on your face after effortlessly boring your first hole. Priceless. *maybe that’s just my hormones kicking in:
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Oh quit being such a bunch of pansies... we're here to torture metal. It's just black iron and it's "only" 3/4" thick. My biggest twist drill with the 1/2" shank is a 1 1/4". Until I got my drill presses maybe 15 yrs ago, my only options were the man-killer B-D or it's slightly heavier and uglier older brother, the 1/2" Sears. The process is quite simple. On the first squeeze of the trigger you let the handle swing around and hit you square in the gnads. After that, any damage to your arms or wrists will seem quite minimal. Be sure to use cutting lubricant and enough beer to keep the bits cool between holes with plenty of rest stops as you get into it. If I was in a hurry I kinda like the torch option though. I'd use a carbide burr in the die grinder to clean up the holes. Oh wait... you asked for the best option. Yea, let someone else with a boring machine do it...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:How many holes?Find someone with a 65 ton or bigger ironworker and they will make easy work of that. My 65 ton will just handle it. 1 1/16 in 3/4, but my 90 ton will do 1 1/4 in 1"If not, a mag drill is the way to go.
Reply:I don't know if this is common anymore but thought I'd throw out something I do.  After torch cutting a hole as accurately as I can, I hammer a fine tapered drift into the hole while it's still hot.  With a little touch up with a die grinder it can look like a punched hole.  I have a drill press but for non-critical (read-jobs for myself), or awkward pieces, it's good enough.
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Originally Posted by bakodiver

I don't know if this is common anymore but thought I'd throw out something I do.  After torch cutting a hole as accurately as I can, I hammer a fine tapered drift into the hole while it's still hot.  With a little touch up with a die grinder it can look like a punched hole.  I have a drill press but for non-critical (read-jobs for myself), or awkward pieces, it's good enough.
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Originally Posted by whtbaron


Oh quit being such a bunch of pansies... we're here to torture metal. It's just black iron and it's "only" 3/4" thick. My biggest twist drill with the 1/2" shank is a 1 1/4". Until I got my drill presses maybe 15 yrs ago, my only options were the man-killer B-D or it's slightly heavier and uglier older brother, the 1/2" Sears. The process is quite simple. On the first squeeze of the trigger you let the handle swing around and hit you square in the gnads. After that, any damage to your arms or wrists will seem quite minimal. Be sure to use cutting lubricant and enough beer to keep the bits cool between holes with plenty of rest stops as you get into it. If I was in a hurry I kinda like the torch option though. I'd use a carbide burr in the die grinder to clean up the holes. Oh wait... you asked for the best option. Yea, let someone else with a boring machine do it...
Reply:It is hard to keep the big bits tight... I think that one is on it's 2nd or 3rd chuck...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Yeah, No, NO, and Really NO!. Been there, done that. So many better options today. Mag drill, drill press, etc. The only way I make holes in truck frame is a pilot and step up with reamers. In plate it will be a mag drill using a pilot hole the size of the drill web. (I don't do enough to justify annulars)
Reply:Oh easier methods have been around for years. This one dates back to 1947...


The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:More like body pain from betting that drill you give the operator maybe broken bones too.Dave

Originally Posted by Lis2323

This pansy got wrist pain just LOOKING at that drill

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Reply:

Originally Posted by whtbaron


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Reply:Thats just an early version of the B&D 1/2" rebranded for Sears. My big (Newer) B&D 1/2" is branded Craftsman. Main reason for buying it was the AC/DC rating. Got an old Souix brand 3/8" single speed from a garage sale for the same reason. No more SA200's so AC/DC is not an issue anymore.  Oh, dont let your guys plug a battery charger or an expensive A/C vacuum pump into an SA either... Grrr.
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Originally Posted by Lis2323

that's gotta be the biggest ugliest hand drill i've ever seen



Originally Posted by Country Metals

How many holes?Find someone with a 65 ton or bigger ironworker and they will make easy work of that. My 65 ton will just handle it. 1 1/16 in 3/4, but my 90 ton will do 1 1/4 in 1"If not, a mag drill is the way to go.
Reply:Good news, a buddy at a machine shop will do it for $25/hole. 2 hour drive but worth it.Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
Reply:I'm with Baron here.  Just man up and drill the holes.  If you can't hold onto a puny lil' drill, showing it who the boss really is, well....Of course, the other part of me is saying this is a grand opportunity to "justify" buying a mag drill.  Annular cutters are awesome and you should have a huge collection of them just to stare at when you're smoking a stogey on the back porch.  Justification to buy a new tool.... especially one that has a big ol' magnet.... well, how can you say no to that?  it's a mag drill!!  Evolution just came out with a tiny little mag drill that's just so cute.  Abom79 showed it on his channel not too long back and it looks great for your kind of operation.  Don't know if it's big enough to drill that size hole, but even if it isn't.... that's just "justification" for buying an even bigger mag drill.Sounds like a win-win-win situation to me.Always glad to spend someone else's money!!
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Originally Posted by Shootr

Good news, a buddy at a machine shop will do it for $25/hole. 2 hour drive but worth it.
Reply:Annular cutters take quite a bit less power to run than the same size twist drill. Also they can be run at a higher speed than the same size twist drill. Main thing is keep it cool and a fairly rigid setup is a must.
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Originally Posted by 12V71

Thats just an early version of the B&D 1/2" rebranded for Sears. My big (Newer) B&D 1/2" is branded Craftsman. Main reason for buying it was the AC/DC rating. Got an old Souix brand 3/8" single speed from a garage sale for the same reason. No more SA200's so AC/DC is not an issue anymore.  Oh, dont let your guys plug a battery charger or an expensive A/C vacuum pump into an SA either... Grrr.
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Originally Posted by Shootr

Good news, a buddy at a machine shop will do it for $25/hole. 2 hour drive but worth it.
Reply:Tungsten carbide hole saw will do it easy with your drill. I have a set and they're very handy for odd jobs. Best in a drill press. For multiple holes I get out the mag drill and annular cutters.I have drilled 1" with twist drills long ago which made me sad.
Reply:25 bux a hole. Let's say it takes him a minute to drill one hole. I know all about set up but on a mill it is easy. So give him 1.5 per hole. That is a pretty good hourly rate. Send that job my way. 2 hour ride though ?www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:I agree that it depends on how many holes.  For a handful of holes or less, I wouldn’t be shy to do it with a bi-metal hole saw. Low speed, lots of pressure, lots of oil. Remove the pilot bit and replace it with a 1/4” drill blank or hardened pin to keep the hole from wandering. Just pre-drill 1/4” pilot hole and then take your time with the hole saw. A bit of compressed air will cool and evacuate chips as you drill. If it’s a lot of holes, take the $25/hole and buy a mag drill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:If he's gonna drive anyway, I'll do it with the Sears for $24/hole... I assume it's the guy buying the angle that's footing the bill...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Some one good with torch will holes done . A little paint and washer it will look great.Dave

Originally Posted by whtbaron

If he's gonna drive anyway, I'll do it with the Sears for $24/hole... I assume it's the guy buying the angle that's footing the bill...
Reply:I do this all the time.  I did 4 of these in inch total, about 5 minutes drill with a hole saw per hole with a few drops of water as coolant.  4 hole including a coffee about 30 minutes. n The 1 1/8 in the second pic very similar, 3 drops of rapid tap per 1/8 inch and as fast as 40 seconds to go thru the 3/8.   Lots of ways to do this, none safer or easier.   NONE, fuksticking with those big bits and heavy drills is sort of,,,,  I dont know what to say to be kind about it but can and DO this with a battery drill.  Goes double and then some to diy.

Attached Images


Last edited by Sberry; 4 Weeks Ago at 10:01 AM.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:But in fairness, he is talking 3/4" steel. What brand of hole saw are you using?The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Has the question regarding the number of holes been addressed yet?Makes a big diff it it’s just a couple or a series of them needing to be drilled with accurate spacing And o/a length of material. Something that is manageable to be set on a mill or?And pics!Note***why am I asking all these questions. This is Oldiron’s job

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Reply:Quick answer... nope.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:6 holes total. End customer pays the bill + my margin. Company pays for the truck and gas. And I keep a valued customer locked into my level of service, to the tune of six figure sales per year.Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
Reply:The real trick to easy large hole drilling is power down feed.This drill press has four settings for the down feed,, the lowest being either .004 or .006 inches per revolution.(I only ever used the lowest setting, I think the higer settings are for aluminum,, etc,,??)

Anyways, that pic is drilling a 3/4" hole in 1" thick steel,, Last week, I drilled a 1 1/8" hole in 3/4" thick steel,, I did pre-drill with a 3/4" bit, just so as to not abuse the 1 1/8" bit.I have had a power feed drill for 22 years,, it is a miracle,,, I used to drill 1" holes in 1/2" bars,, six at a time, stacked in a vise.(That was like drilling through 3" thick steel)We did thousands of those per year.Flip the power feed lever, and wait for the drill bit to show through the bottom.
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Originally Posted by Lis2323

Has the question regarding the number of holes been addressed yet?Makes a big diff it it’s just a couple or a series of them needing to be drilled with accurate spacing And o/a length of material. Something that is manageable to be set on a mill or?And pics!Note***why am I asking all these questions. This is Oldiron’s job


Reply:84" long. All the answers to the other questions are above and in the title.Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
Reply:Regarding hand drilling: My ancient wrist breaker has a 12" power cord. In the past I would brace as best I could using an underhand grip. The extension cord would be secured relatively tight. If (when) the drill caught, it would push through my fingers, pul the cord on the way around, and then reset and do it again.My question really was what type bit gives me the best option. It would have been a courtesy/favor for the customer, but didn't want to burn through multiple hole saw if I misused them.Appreciate all the info and the time to add your experience.Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
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Originally Posted by whtbaron

Attachment 1742634Oh quit being such a bunch of pansies... we're here to torture metal. It's just black iron and it's "only" 3/4" thick. My biggest twist drill with the 1/2" shank is a 1 1/4". Until I got my drill presses maybe 15 yrs ago, my only options were the man-killer B-Dit...
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Originally Posted by Oldiron2

I mentioned the hole number in Post 4 and also asked about the precision needed; others later directly asked how many holes were needed. So far, the OP hasn't answered most, if any, questions posed. As for the length of material, based on the application I assume they're relatively short, not 20' beams. Maybe I'm cheap, but paying $25 a hole and driving two hours to get it done seems ridiculous to me. Ignoring the money aspect, just the time, the gas and the drive itself would be more hassle then setting up the heavy old (#203) Post drill to do it:


Reply:Gee, for not too much more money, you could have your own mag drill when done with this job :

Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300
Reply:New and [GREEN]  and will keep fit too. Dave

Originally Posted by Oldiron2

I mentioned the hole number in Post 4 and also asked about the precision needed; others later directly asked how many holes were needed. So far, the OP hasn't answered most, if any, questions posed. As for the length of material, based on the application I assume they're relatively short, not 20' beams. Maybe I'm cheap, but paying $25 a hole and driving two hours to get it done seems ridiculous to me. Ignoring the money aspect, just the time, the gas and the drive itself would be more hassle then setting up the heavy old (#203) Post drill to do it: