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Been a few boring questions lately on guys wanting to get drilled, so I thought I'd throw this out there in case it could be of value to someone. My complete rebuild of a cultivator recently began when I dropped the tandem wheels through a soft spot in the road a couple years ago. The rock shaft holding the wheels twisted and broke the bolts retaining it. Rebuilding including replacing the center main frame that was twisted badly. I decided in the process of rebuilding it that the 5/8" bolts should be replaced with Grade 8 3/4" bolts and bigger washers. Sounds simple but the holes were slotted to align things at the factory. Shoving a twisted drill bit into a slotted hole to enlarge it is sure death on a bit, and jambs things up so the drill is hard to hang onto. I came to the conclusion the easiest way was to expand the hole with a cheap die grinder and quality (Snap On) burr. Process went well after I ground a flat spot into the washers for clearance and added extra grease zerks... at least until I went to tighten things down.
Holding the bolt while my 3/4" Milwaukee tightened things down required building a "Star Trek" wrench... going places where no man had gone before. Took one of my cheaper 1 1/8" wrenches and ground it down to get the job done. Obstructions at the back wouldn't let a box end in .
The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Nice fix! Die grinder and proper configuration quality burr has always been my go to for situations like that also. Have a beer on me
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Reply:. Took one of my cheaper 1 1/8" wrenches and ground it down to get the job done. Obstructions at the back wouldn't let a box end in .
Reply:Always have to have a back up wrench on nylon lock nuts.
Reply:Seeking clarification. Is the steel in this thread holey because it has holes or holy because you blessed it while making the holes? Playing internet Spelling Troll today.---Meltedmetal
Reply:
Originally Posted by Meltedmetal
Seeking clarification. Is the steel in this thread holey because it has holes or holy because you blessed it while making the holes? Playing internet Spelling Troll today.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
i'm old with no employable skills. what's your excuse ? slow day ?
Reply:
Originally Posted by Meltedmetal
Seeking clarification. Is the steel in this thread holey because it has holes or holy because you blessed it while making the holes? Playing internet Spelling Troll today.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Meltedmetal
Seeking clarification. Is the steel in this thread holey because it has holes or holy because you blessed it while making the holes? Playing internet Spelling Troll today.
Reply:
Originally Posted by cwby
Always have to have a back up wrench on nylon lock nuts.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oldiron2
OK, I'll play Internet Grammarian; You should have written "You are just a bit older then I [am]" where the "am" is understood but not written. "I" there is termed a predicate nominative.Yes, we fix EVERYTHING here.
Reply:This reminds me....I need to upgrade my die grinder. I need a 1HP model.
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Reply:them nuts are called "conelocks"
Reply:
Originally Posted by 123weld
them nuts are called "conelocks"
Reply:we call nylocks, nylocks too, but theres no nylon in those nuts. the last/top internal bit of thread is thinner, slighty wave/distorted like, to grip the male threads, which does the work of the nylon, but more agreessively so. the little dots near the outer points (that we can barely see) mark there grade, like the lines on a head of bolt do. ther might be grade 8 nylocks, but i havent seen any.Last edited by 123weld; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:01 PM.
Reply:i learned something new!! thanks just went and looked. both 3/8 n/c
Last edited by Lis2323; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:11 PM.:
Reply:Those are called " top lock" nuts, also called a "stover nut". Probably the most effective lock nut, followed by the locknuts that have a small indented square, I believe called a " deformed thread lock nut" , followed by the nylock nuts.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
This reminds me....I need to upgrade my die grinder. I need a 1HP model.
Reply:
Originally Posted by M J D
Those are called " top lock" nuts, also called a "stover nut". Probably the most effective lock nut, followed by the locknuts that have a small indented square, I believe called a " deformed thread lock nut" , followed by the nylock nuts.
Reply:Burrs', they work great but they make me feel like a porcupine afterwards from the filings. Put me in the hospital many years ago with blood poisoning. Got a piece in my finger, two days later I woke up one morning with a fever and a couple red streaks running up my arm. That got me a five day stay in hospital.Just a comment with all due respect, not trying to be an a$$hole but by using what looks like Gr5 washers you lowered the rating of the connection to a gr 5. The washers will flatten out and loosen the connection eventually............Mike
Reply:Yeah, I noticed after I posted that they were not nylon lock nuts, but the gist of the post is the same. Gotta have a back up wrench to tighten 'em up. We use ANCO nuts on towers, also known as sprig nuts. Other types of lock nuts are a pain to tighten - hanging way up in the air, with only 2 hands, contorted to fit wrenches on both sides of the connection, but with sprig nuts & an impact you can usually tighten them by shaking the impact.
Reply:It was engineered with gr 5 and a 5/8. Using a 3/4 is 2x, way above worrying about the grade. The reason for changing grades is for joints you need to tighten more, more clamping force. Doesn't do much if any good unless the nut is tighter.www.urkafarms.com
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Originally Posted by whtbaron
"Only" 1 HP???
Reply:
Originally Posted by mrmikey
Burrs', they work great but they make me feel like a porcupine afterwards from the filings. Put me in the hospital many years ago with blood poisoning. Got a piece in my finger, two days later I woke up one morning with a fever and a couple red streaks running up my arm. That got me a five day stay in hospital.Just a comment with all due respect, not trying to be an a$$hole but by using what looks like Gr5 washers you lowered the rating of the connection to a gr 5. The washers will flatten out and loosen the connection eventually............Mike
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
That's pretty powerful for a die grinder
Originally Posted by whtbaron
I've been leaning the other direction though, and picking up a cheap die grinder for every style of burr I have rather than going to a more expensive one. The first one I bought on sale in 1985 for $7 and it's still going.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Meltedmetal
Seems you've been leaning that way for a while now.
Reply:What's the name of this guy? Looks useful for quick surface prep.
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Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
What's the name of this guy? Looks useful for quick surface prep.
Reply:Thanks, I was thinking just that; using it on my straight air drill that is low-RPM. I have one with a 3M Clean Strip XT silicon carbide wheel, so I can use the other one with a different surface prep wheel.
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Reply:
Originally Posted by Meltedmetal
Seems you've been leaning that way for a while now.
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
For some items... just learning which I can get away with and which ones are a waste of time is a bit of a steep learning curve though. Electric items (corded and non-corded ) I stay with name brand. My key sockets and wrenches are vintage SnapOn but there's lots of cheaper wrenches in the mix, especially when you get into the larger sizes that are a bit clutzy to work with anyway. Even the cheap wrenches aren't the bargain basement variety... think more along the lines of low level industrial. Oscar is probably right, I might very well be missing out on some torque in the cheaper die grinders, but if I can buy them for under $25 and use them for decades, I can live with that for what is usually light duty work anyway. Having a variety of attachments on hand during a job speeds things up and ensures I use the right tool for the job instead of cutting corners.
Reply:We throw a lot of locks in the scrap and I rarely use them on anything new. We do use some hardened machine washers for really tight connections. Double flats over the slotted holes, rarely use any lock stuff, we simply spray them and drive tight. A lock keeps it from falling out if it loosens, doesnt really keep it tight, it didnt back off, the joint loosened. Fond one on a castle on a machine the other day, the cotter pin kept from losing the nut. As for the grinder and burs the 30$ tool is wayyyyy better.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:Looks pretty good, I got a 3pk of the 80grit for only twice what one costs from Amazon.
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Reply:Oscar, where did you get the Nyalox wire wheels...cheaper than Amazon?
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Try one of these (Princess Auto) and let us know
Reply:
Originally Posted by shortfuse
Oscar, where did you get the Nyalox wire wheels...cheaper than Amazon?
Reply:Here's most of the herd... that grey mini has been here a while...probably close to 20 yrs.
The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
Here's most of the herd... that grey mini has been here a while...probably close to 20 yrs. The oldest one (1985) is bottom left.
Reply:I bought a Metabo variable speed electric die grinder a few years ago and haven't used my pneumatic ones since. It's an amazing tool.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
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Originally Posted by bigb
I bought a Metabo variable speed electric die grinder a few years ago and haven't used my pneumatic ones since. It's an amazing tool.
Reply:I tried a Chinese electric but returned it... it broke the rule of "No Chinese Electrics". The variable speed didn't work right and the trigger was really awkward so you couldn't use it with one hand. I'll have to try a Metabo..The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
I tried a Chinese electric but returned it... it broke the rule of "No Chinese Electrics". The variable speed didn't work right and the trigger was really awkward so you couldn't use it with one hand. I'll have to try a Metabo..
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
I tried a Chinese electric but returned it... it broke the rule of "No Chinese Electrics". The variable speed didn't work right and the trigger was really awkward so you couldn't use it with one hand. I'll have to try a Metabo..
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Watch out for the Chinese variable speed Metabo grinders they sell at Home Depotca Apparently lots of probs with those and not the warranty you assumeSent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:Once you run a 1 hp die grinder you wont want to go back. I still have some smaller ones for fine work but the big one is a joy to run.https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-Tools-S.../dp/B008EW40CUAnd for the 3" flap wheels ...https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnp...a&gclsrc=3p.dsLincolin Power Wave 450, Lincoln Powermig 255, Lincoln Pro Mig 140, Lincoln Squarewave Tig 275, Miller Big 40 G(with Hobart Hefty suitcase), Thermal Arc 95S and Esab PCM875 in an already full machine shop.
Reply:
Originally Posted by propanehotrod
Once you run a 1 hp die grinder you wont want to go back. I still have some smaller ones for fine work but the big one is a joy to run.https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-Tools-S.../dp/B008EW40CUAnd for the 3" flap wheels ...https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnp...a&gclsrc=3p.ds
Reply:I thought I was joking when I said 1 hp... can you seriously hold that thing with one hand?The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:
Originally Posted by psacustomcreations
Those might be the Hitachi rebranded as Metabo. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
I thought I was joking when I said 1 hp... can you seriously hold that thing with one hand? |
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发表于 2022-9-16 15:52:16