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So I got this propane forge a couple years ago, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, am I tuning it wrong? When I Tighten the regulator all the way to increase pressure, it suddenly cuts out, is the increased flow making the tank freeze up?So I replaced the regulator with one from tractor supply, and I still have the issues of it sputtering and being generally retarded.I can't upload a video, I will try to figure out how to do that in order to show you guys what's going on,I'm about to bomb this thing. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
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Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
So I got this propane forge a couple years ago, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, am I tuning it wrong? When I Tighten the regulator all the way to increase pressure, it suddenly cuts out, is the increased flow making the tank freeze up?So I replaced the regulator with one from tractor supply, and I still have the issues of it sputtering and being generally retarded.I can't upload a video, I will try to figure out how to do that in order to show you guys what's going on,I'm about to bomb this thing. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave
If you are running it on a 20 lb cylinder, this may be your problem.If I recall right, the fancy triangle handle ones only flow a certain amount.When you hook to a 100 lb tank, it's just a valve that feeds as much as it can.
Reply:Have you compare the flame when varying venting at the back. It is air aspirated and you may be creating turbulence and reducing it ability to pull air inside. Blow in the burner to see if it changes. Also is your tank full,no frosting?
Reply:This a problem with propane even where I live with temperature over 100. I used water 💦 flowing over the tank and regulator. Like MinnesotaDave said: use 100 pound tank helps. You can use lump charcoal (do not use charcoal like Kingsford type) use only the old fashioned type it gives a very hot fire 🔥. Dave
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
So I got this propane forge a couple years ago, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, am I tuning it wrong? When I Tighten the regulator all the way to increase pressure, it suddenly cuts out, is the increased flow making the tank freeze up?So I replaced the regulator with one from tractor supply, and I still have the issues of it sputtering and being generally retarded.I can't upload a video, I will try to figure out how to do that in order to show you guys what's going on,I'm about to bomb this thing. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
I was, I did switch to a 100lb tank just now and it seems to be doing better, but I can still hear the flame sputtering a bit, going out at times Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:To prevent the tank from frosting up
Get a large plastic garbage can and submerse your 20 pound tank in water while using.:
Reply:
Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave
Do you think it's an air mixture problem?Maybe posting a short video will help?Oops, it just loaded on my screen.
That sounds like an air mixture problem and/or wind.
Reply:My bad, add a wall/vent. Play with venting. Can you move burners in and out? If you don’t have a flange on the burner then you will need to move/ adjust the burner in or out. Do it in a dark area and you can see the the flame pattern swirl. Make sure wool is not interfering with the burner.
Reply:Go over to iforgeiron.com for help. The blacksmithing forum is full of info on gas forges.
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
So I replaced the regulator with one from tractor supply,
Reply:
Originally Posted by John T
Is it a HIGH PRESSURE regulator? a standard "grill type" regulator won't work right. you need a High pressure reg.
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
It is a high pressure regulator Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:Maybe the tip is clogged?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProMiller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:
Originally Posted by John T
What size nozzle ? Seems a lot of guys use a .030 or .035 mig tip for the home made burners Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
I bought a premade forge from Amazon, I don't know what size nozzles it has Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:USA Cast Master Elite Portable Double Burner Propane Forge Blacksmith Farrier Caster Deluxe KIT Jewelry Large Capacity Knife and Tool Making https://a.co/d/5twTbl3Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
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Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
List the link to the Amazon forge,, there are some guys that sell DIY burners on Amazon, and eBay.Heck, those guys may know less than you about burner design,,,I aimed a Size-6 TurboTorch into an uninsulated piece of square tube steel (4 inch,, IIRC)I aimed the torch at two 1" diameter steel bars.
Getting it to red hot only took a few minutes,,,
So, if a soldering torch can heat those pieces of 1" steel bar, your burner must be able to do it,,,
Reply:This is why I like forced induction burners. Don't have to worry about venturis and whatever else. Just use a potentiometer or a damper on your blower (I use a pot, so my blower is quieter - be careful about stalling the blower and/or letting it overheat) and a regulator for your propane and you can dial in the flame pretty dang fast. PLUS you can get into some interesting burner designs like ribbon burners. You can force more fuel through a smaller burner, too, since you can just force more air in along with it. If you wanna try forced induction CHEAP, buy 120V leaf blower and a dimmer switch. Or if you have a blower that doesn't use a brushed motor, cover the air inlet to let less air through. This won't hurt the motor, in the case of a centrifugal blower, it puts less stress on the motor since it's moving less air. Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using TapatalkLast edited by 52 Ford; 2 Days Ago at 08:52 PM.
Reply:I have a homemade single burner forge and when starting it cold, it does that as well. Mine is just iron pipe and an iron tee fitting on top as the air intake, with a .030 welding tip as the gas nozzle. I have found that on mine, it is a fuel/air issue. If I just block off part of the air vent for a few seconds, until there's some heat in it - it takes off and is fine.Your video seemed to mimic that behavior - does it smooth out after a minute or two?EDIT: If you are looking to replace the burner assembly, DM me and I can give you the Etsy site that I bought mine from. He's charging a whopping $16 each for them now.Last edited by Shootr; 2 Days Ago at 09:47 PM.Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
I bought a premade forge from Amazon, I don't know what size nozzles it has Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:Phil,You can also check out a Facebook group called "Blacksmith for Beginners". I am pretty sure I have seen many people with that same forge on that site. If you post in that group, the first thing many will tell you is to coat the wool with ridgidizer and refractory cement. The reason is the wool may release tiny particles that are hazardous to breath in.Millermatic 252 MIGMiller Dynasty 200DX TIGMiller Spectrum 625 PlasmaAltas 12x36 Metal LatheBridgeport Milling Machinewww.psacustomcreations.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by BD1
You should be able to post a question and see what other purchases say.,,,,,,,,,,,,,I think this is their site, https://castmastereliteshop.com/prod...jewelry-burner
Reply:I have a home made forge with home made burners. I use a 100 lb propane tank. To make the flame a little hotter, I introduced air from my air compressor through 1/4" stainless steel tubing into the top of the burners. I regulate the air pressure to around 5 psi. It has made a difference in increasing the temperature of the flame.I think you may have an air mixture problem. If I turn my propane regulator up too high, the flame sputters and will eventually blow out.
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Last edited by WFM; 1 Day Ago at 08:16 AM.Curious.Made in china, so there's no telling what they did for the gas nozzles. I'd pull the burners apart and see how big the orifice is and if there's any blockages in the tubes. Also, while you're at it, that wool needs to be coated with refractory cement like Kastolite. Leaving it free like that will allow the fibers to break loose and get into the air -- and then into your lungs. Nothing worse than that, imo, and fixing it will make the forge 100% more efficient.The sputtering reminds me of how my forge can act when the gas is low in the tank. It's wanting to fire, but there's just not enough pressure coming in. This can happen pretty quick on a small tank, too, especially when combined with the tank chilling because of the pressure differential.Give the burners a good clean, fill the tank or tie two tanks together, and then see what happens. You can buy quality burners like the T-Rex or JF1 for a very economical price if those chinesium burners aren't worth fixing.
Reply:Here's a thought...The "sputtering" that the burner is doing is (probably?) causes by too high of a velocity in the burner. The propane is coming out too fast and pushing the flame out of the burner. Once the flame is out past the end of the burner, it isn't very stable. To remedy this, try a larger size orifice for the propane. Maybe drill the existing one out with a wire size drill bit? If you're VERY CAREFUL you can grind the OD down on a 1/16" twist drill by chucking it in a hand held drill and abraiding the twist drill with sand paper or even using a bench grinder. I've done this a few times in the past with success. It works really well in brass, like wire welder contact tips and gas regulator parts. Edit: the larger orifice size where the propane enters the burner will allow for the same amount of propane to get into the burner, but at a lower velocity. You DEFINITELY have enough air being pulled into the burner, since it's a nice blue flame. Be careful adjusting the orifice size. Go a little at a time. Too big and you won't have the velocity from the fuel to draw in air.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using TapatalkLast edited by 52 Ford; 1 Day Ago at 06:20 PM.
Reply:Id actually suggest a different approach with the burner. Changing the orifice will change the air:fuel ratio. Im that way, a larger orifice will be appropriate for a larger overall flow (as supported by a certain size air-entrainment section and mixing pipe). But I wouldnt go altering a mixing ratio that seems to be giving you a good color. Or at least have a backup nozzle if you do. Ive used MIG tips in my burners. For sure a too-high flow will blow out the flame (the flow is faster than the flame propagation back into the oncoming flow). One thing you can do is tune the nozzle at the end of the mixing tube (the end in the forge). The nozzle is just a larger section to contain the flame and allow the flow to slow as it expands. Say 30-40% bigger ID than the mixing tube; and extending a couple inches. I should go back and look at your pictures. But tuning the nozzle length and diameter can make a huge impact on flame stability. Once the forge is hot, the nozzle shouldnt matter nearly as much, as the forge ignites the mixture as it exits.
Reply:
Originally Posted by jwmelvin
Id actually suggest a different approach with the burner. Changing the orifice will change the air:fuel ratio. Im that way, a larger orifice will be appropriate for a larger overall flow (as supported by a certain size air-entrainment section and mixing pipe). But I wouldnt go altering a mixing ratio that seems to be giving you a good color. Or at least have a backup nozzle if you do. Ive used MIG tips in my burners. For sure a too-high flow will blow out the flame (the flow is faster than the flame propagation back into the oncoming flow). One thing you can do is tune the nozzle at the end of the mixing tube (the end in the forge). The nozzle is just a larger section to contain the flame and allow the flow to slow as it expands. Say 30-40% bigger ID than the mixing tube; and extending a couple inches. I should go back and look at your pictures. But tuning the nozzle length and diameter can make a huge impact on flame stability. Once the forge is hot, the nozzle shouldnt matter nearly as much, as the forge ignites the mixture as it exits.
Reply:
Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Balancing the orifice size with fuel pressure you can get the right AFR and and velocity without having to modify the rest of the burner.
Reply:I actually built a forge about 10 years ago for my previous employer, and it never had these issues, I remember flaring out the end of the burner tube, I remember reading something about that being important, this one doesn't have that, should I flare the ends out?Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
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发表于 2022-9-16 15:52:15