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what is the best welding helmet for tig? im in the USA, i like the miller infinitys field of view but the lens isent super clear, is the miller digital elite clearlight 2.0 good? anything better? anyone have any recommendations? no optrel products though please.
Reply:Optrel products are what I recommend lolWhy are they not an option? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:I've got a Viking 2450 that is super clear, big fan. When you have it dialed in you can barley tell it's on. I think Optrel are the ones that make the auto adjusting hoods that adjust the darkness based on arc. Most people will recommend the 3350 because of the larger window, but it's not been a problem for me.Airco Auto-Pak 130Forney 235AC/DC
Reply:
Originally Posted by Roert42
I've got a Viking 2450 that is super clear, big fan. When you have it dialed in you can barley tell it's on. I think Optrel are the ones that make the auto adjusting hoods that adjust the darkness based on arc. Most people will recommend the 3350 because of the larger window, but it's not been a problem for me.
Reply:I tried a lot of different hoods over the years. Mostly trying on other peoples hoods, and maybe 8-10 I have bought. Until Father's day I would have said the Lincoln Viking 3350 4C model was the best clarity I have ever seen in a hood other than a fixed shade hood with glass (not plastic) lenses. That all changed on Father's day when I got an Optrel Crystal 2.0. It is noticeably clearer than the Lincoln 3350.If you are TIG welding with a foot pedal or torch switch, then you might consider a fixed shade hood. They are much clearer than an auto darkening hood. I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/Jackson-Safet...ps%2C76&sr=8-1 It has an amazingly large viewing area and good headgear. I have yet to find an AD hood that is quite as clear as a passive with a good gold lens in it.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:The best answer is, Of course,,, that there Rarely is no best anything...There are Many great helmets available and all you're gonna get is people who are happy with their choice (mine's Optrel
) but it's certainly not the only choice as you can see here. My advice is that, usually, the more expensive stuff will be "better" (Clearer, better Color transmission) so, buy what you can afford! I don't think there's a more appropriate reason to buy an expensive helmet then there is for Tig, its requirements for a clear picture of what's going-on with your puddle makes it more beneficial than other methods (since you Mig at 3X the speed and Stick has all that smoke & flux)
Reply:I've read this thread as well as previous ones on the topic. I'm in the market for an auto-darkening helmet for TIG with headgear that fits well and doesn't easily break, has sufficient sensors to darken even when the arc is obscured from a portion of the shield, whose electronics won't fail, and whose batteries will last a reasonable time. The problem is, when I read the negative reviews on Amazon of the various recommendations, all fail. By 'negative' reviews, I don't mean ones where the item came in a damaged box, had incorrect graphics, etc., but ones that explicitly mention the headgear breaks, it doesn't darken, the electronics fail, and/or it eats batteries. I only will use it for TIG with a 200 A machine and, were it not for troublesome reviews of the Lincoln and Optrel hoods mentioned in this thread, all seem to have all the features I'm looking for (except, possibly, the number and location of sensors for partially-shielded arcs, for which more information is needed). I'd like to keep it under $500 if possible, but could go higher if necessary.
Reply:I don't like the Lincoln 3350, I feel like it's too heavy, I stopped using it for that reason, I have enough neck pain from wearing a welding helmet as it is Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:Optrels with auto-pilot.
1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
I don't like the Lincoln 3350, I feel like it's too heavy,
Reply:Remember the OP is NOT interested in Optrel products. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk:
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Remember the OP is NOT interested in Optrel products. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:You are never going to have a zero percent chance of not having your sensors blocked in a tight spot. If welding in tight spots regularly you will want one of those all leather fixed shade hoods. The 2450 has four I think. I had them all blocked one time. Only a small part of my head was sticking around the corner, and my arm was reaching up over my head blocking the top two sensor.Airco Auto-Pak 130Forney 235AC/DC
Reply:I understand the desire for an AD helmet with stick, because there is no way I could strike an arc with a passive helmet and SMAW. I am just not that coordinated. But with MIG and TIG, where you essentially have a trigger (or pedal), why bother with AD if you are worried about getting flashed, replacing batteries, etc.? I guess I could see it for scratch start TIG, or maybe even lift arc TIG, but otherwise, the passive helmet seems like maybe a better choice, especially if you need the maximum clarity.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:
Originally Posted by Louie1961
I understand the desire for an AD helmet with stick, because there is no way I could strike an arc with a passive helmet and SMAW. I am just not that coordinated. But with MIG and TIG, where you essentially have a trigger (or pedal), why bother with AD if you are worried about getting flashed, replacing batteries, etc.? I guess I could see it for scratch start TIG, or maybe even lift arc TIG, but otherwise, the passive helmet seems like maybe a better choice, especially if you need the maximum clarity.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Remember the OP is NOT interested in Optrel products. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
I just want to know why though Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:I'm the other way around. Normally run a fixed shade hood with stick welding. If you are off by a couple mm when you start your arc it doesn't matter, just jab in there and get going.Any tig I do is light ga stuff, and you gotta have that stinger just so when you get the juice flowing or it'll be a pita. For Mig I could go either way, lighter gage stuff is AD. Heavier stuff with a lot of continuous welding, fixed is fine.Airco Auto-Pak 130Forney 235AC/DC
Reply:
Originally Posted by Louie1961
with MIG and TIG, where you essentially have a trigger (or pedal), why bother with AD
Reply:Do not use this type It will fit a welding lens but you will burn your face.
Dave
Originally Posted by Wolf_Welder
what is the best welding helmet for tig? im in the USA, i like the miller infinitys field of view but the lens isent super clear, is the miller digital elite clearlight 2.0 good? anything better? anyone have any recommendations? no optrel products though please.
Reply:OP, what's your beef with optrel helmets? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
Optrel products are what I recommend lolWhy are they not an option? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:Optel expecially the crystal 2.0 and clt are junk and even optrel admitted that
Reply:They are junk
Reply:Or if everything fit perfectly. Alot of time times I'm pressing or pulling or bending a shim in Joints to make things line up for tacks and then welds. Hard to line stuff up without an AD lol even my boss is is diehard fixed shade will use a ad for this kinda stuff.It matters for me. You ever polish mirror finish? Your sure as hell don't want arc strikes anywhere a but where you are welding.
Reply:I have 2 options right now that seem good, buy a digital elite because I think they should be good with the clear light 2.0 but no one ever talks about the helmet just the infinity, or have my job pay half for a speedglas g5-02
Reply:Ives tried both optrel crystal and Clt, clt the senora will fail continuously in under 2 weeksm mines on the 8th lens, crystal just flat out doesn't sense arcs and will flash you constantly which is quite painful due to its very light non dark shade. I think the best options rn are going to be infinity for a larger lens but has some green tint or miller digital elite with the clear light 2.0 for a no green tint, better clarity and only slightly smaller area than the infinity. Or for 1k, speedglas g5-02 but I haven't heard much about the g5-02
Reply:I've had issues with optrel lens, but they just sent me new ones, no big deal, I'm surprised you've had that much difficulty with them.Very odd Sent from my fab shop using a mig welder and a grinder
http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:I've been using the same speedglass 9100 that my dad bought me for Christmas 12-13 years ago. It got me through welding school and has served me well doing 10 years of aerospace TIG. Is it perfect? Not by any stretch, sometimes the flashing lights on forklifts that drive by set off the autodarken which is irritating, but it's way lighter than any other helmets I've felt (barring fixed shade), the head gear is awesome and I can only remember a few times it didn't detect the arc for me. Those were easily fixed by upping the sensitivity, which at the maximum setting, will darken due to the high frequency arc start of a nearby weld machine. I've successfully used that hood to weld 0.016" thick Inconel regularly without any issues. If you've never welded Inco, it has one of the muddiest and darkest weld puddles you'll ever experience, while my hood might not have the clarity of the newer models it does the job. I had to replace the original headgear after about 8 years of daily use in the shop because the ratchet to tighten/loosen it started to slip, that might be due to my fat head though. I've tried viking and miller helmets that others have, they all felt really heavy/clunky to me, but I'm also used to the speedlgass. The miller I tried (don't remember the specific model, it was comparable to the high end speedglass) came with a bunch of nonesense that I wouldn't use but let Miller charge more (like a clock and arc timer), although it had an external grind mode button which if you do a lot of grinding with your hood on that could be a handy feature. Buy whatever fits your budget, has the features you like and weighs the least. Everything has problems, there's no perfect solution because everyone is different so unless you make your own from scratch you'll have to compromise with something most likely. If you want the ability to do shade 9.3 then grab a Viking or one of the ones with variable shades. Don't care about weight? Grab one of the heavier helmets, it stands to reason that heavier means thicker and more robust materials so it'll be more durable.Last edited by Thoriated Wolfram; 1 Day Ago at 09:04 AM.
Reply:Optrel is junk sorry I wouldn't advise anyone to buy overpriced stuff when Amazon has better helmets for 30$
Reply:The issue is also I don't have a spare helmet so I can't keep sending the helmet in to get a new lens just to have it fail again, clt has been the same exact failure all 8 times. Middle sensor will fail and the other sensors are very weak so you get flashed often.
Reply:I have options I can explore. I can buy a miller digital elite with the newish clear view 2.0 Lens, the infinity with the older lens since it isn't offered with the newer one, or I can pay 500$ ish (I have a store credit from a prior helmet refund I need to use anyways) and have my job pay the addition 400-500 to get a speedglas g5-02
Reply:I sure hope people know how to read but if they can't take the time to read my post then their opinion is worthless lol
Reply:sorry about that, I did miss it.
Sucks that you had so many issues with Optrel. Never had any issues with any of my 3. I guess it's just the luck of the draw. Anyways, good luck, I'm sure you will find something that fits you. Peace out!
1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!
Reply:I only do TIG welding, right now I have 2 hoods, Miller DE with clearlight (not 2.0) and the optrel e684, mostly I use the optrelbut the DE is good enough that I would recommend it.I don't use the auto feature on the e684, I set what I want thank you
RichardWest coast of Florida
Reply:Here is one I use for tight spotsIt is a leather hood.
Dave
Originally Posted by Wolf_Welder
what is the best welding helmet for tig? im in the USA, i like the miller infinitys field of view but the lens isent super clear, is the miller digital elite clearlight 2.0 good? anything better? anyone have any recommendations? no optrel products though please.
Reply:Plenty of people haven't had issues with optrel, no need to chuck them under the bus forever, Sent from my fab shop using a mig welder and a grinder
http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:are you kidding. if my job payed half of the speedglas g5 i wouldnt even think twice and buy it immediatly.infinity weighs a metric ton and has some useless features hardly nobody would use. other wise its a decent helmet but no way can it compete with a g5invertig 221 water cooledhypertherm powermax 30xpfronius transpocket 180fronius transsteel 2200fronius iwave 230i water cooled
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
sorry about that, I did miss it.
Sucks that you had so many issues with Optrel. Never had any issues with any of my 3. I guess it's just the luck of the draw. Anyways, good luck, I'm sure you will find something that fits you. Peace out!
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
Plenty of people haven't had issues with optrel, no need to chuck them under the bus forever, Sent from my fab shop using a mig welder and a grinder
Reply:The digital elite 2.0 can compete? I mean I could.probably get my boss to buy the entire g5-02 but I'm not about taking big handouts. I'd rather pay the majority
Reply:
Originally Posted by Wolf_Welder
Or if everything fit perfectly. Alot of time times I'm pressing or pulling or bending a shim in Joints to make things line up for tacks and then welds. Hard to line stuff up without an AD lol even my boss is is diehard fixed shade will use a ad for this kinda stuff.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Wolf_Welder
It matters for me. You ever polish mirror finish? Your sure as hell don't want arc strikes anywhere a but where you are welding.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Wolf_Welder
The issue is also I don't have a spare helmet so I can't keep sending the helmet in to get a new lens just to have it fail again, clt has been the same exact failure all 8 times. Middle sensor will fail and the other sensors are very weak so you get flashed often.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Wolf_Welder
The digital elite 2.0 can compete? I mean I could.probably get my boss to buy the entire g5-02 but I'm not about taking big handouts. I'd rather pay the majority
Reply:boss will pay half. supposedly you have $400 store credit. whats there to even think about ?invertig 221 water cooledhypertherm powermax 30xpfronius transpocket 180fronius transsteel 2200fronius iwave 230i water cooled
Reply:
Originally Posted by cornchip
boss will pay half. supposedly you have $400 store credit. whats there to even think about ?
Reply:Because the boss buy the best price at Harbor Freight or worst. Dave
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
Why don't you want your boss to buy the helmet?And tell him you need a spare. Just get a harbor freight helmet, maybe that'll work for you. Sent from my fab shop using a mig welder and a grinder
Reply:Idk what high end machine you have but our machines can't do that. You either start light and the sec dances it dance all around or get right into it like a normal weld and go |
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发表于 2022-8-7 15:51:42