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okay guys please bear with me... i am not a welder, nor have any formal training... but i had a small home repair weld job come up and found a Big Max 225 stick welder for sale for $25 on Marketplace, so i bought it... pretty sure it is a Miller thunderbolt 225 clone... got it home and cleaned/lubed it up... went to try and do a couple test beads on a piece of 3/8 square structural tubing, and my 6011 and 7018 3/32 electrodes stick and pop, and will absolutely not run a bead at any amperage - however a 5/32 7018 will run a bead, albeit a ****ty one @ appx 100 amps... so i'm assuming the welder works, and i'm the weak link... i reversed the polarity to see if that would solve the issue, but i couldn't notice a difference after trying all the electrodes at different amperages... so the question is, is the base material too thick/heavy for the smaller electrodes to work? ...i'm not versed in the compatibility of material and electrodes as far as the relationship of how to balance the production of heat in order to acquire a functional bead... what basic principal am i overlooking...? thanks for any pointers -V
Reply:100A is very little for a 5/32 7018. It needs more like 140-160A.6011 in 3/32" needs about 40-80A, 7018 in 3/32" needs about 70-110A. Make sure your rod holder is on the positive terminal/output. With stick welding, thick material can be done with proper prep and number of passes. That comes with doing a bit more research and practice.That is just the basics to get the rods going, assuming the machine operation is not compromised. The rest as to how to produce a functional bead is called "learning how to weld". Depending on your initiative & dedication, you could have functional beads in 2 weeks, or in 20 years. You must practice on scrap and learn how to read the puddle (in other words, you first have to learn how to weld, in order to be able to judge if you are welding correctly at any given instant.
1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!
Reply:[QUOTE=Oscar;8870673]100A is very little for a 5/32 7018. It needs more like 140-160A.6011 in 3/32" needs about 40-80A, 7018 in 3/32" needs about 70-110A. Make sure your rod holder is on the positive terminal/output. With stick welding, thick material can be done with proper prep and number of passes. That comes with doing a bit more research and practice.That is just the basics to get the rods going, assuming the machine operation is not compromised. The rest as to how to produce a functional bead is called "learning how to weld". Depending on your initiative & dedication, you could have functional beads in 2 weeks, or in 20 years. You must practice on scrap and learn how to read the puddle (in other words, you first have to learn how to weld, in order to be able to judge if you are welding correctly at any given instant.[/QUOteThats the best advice to anybody ive heard yet...about anything really...initive and dedication is what it all about with learning anything...or living for that matter
Reply:I agree 👍 💯 To low and you have cold 🥶 weld.Dave
Originally Posted by old miner called Pop
Thats the best advice to anybody ive heard yet...about anything really...initive and dedication is what it all about with learning anything...or living for that matter
Reply:Since it is new to you and you cleaned it up and lubed it, did you check all the connections. Make sure they are tight snd no arcing. Ground clamp in good condition.Then address pilot error issues. A video would be nice. If you hold the electrode an inch from your he material then it will not run a bead. That is a common issue for new welders. Not knowing to stab the metal with the rod then make adjustments by pulling away a bit. But who knows what your issue could be.By stab I mean keep the electrode closer (like 1/8”) rather than far away.Last edited by tapwelder; 13 Hours Ago at 02:44 PM.
Reply:Check out Welding Tips and Tricks on YouTube. Jody is the man when it comes to online welding instructions. Also, NEVER USE BRAKE CLEANER to clean the metal before welding! And dont weld right ontop of the cement floor in your garage!Brake cleaner, when exposed to a welding arc, can produce hydrogen chloride and or phosgene. Phosgene was used extensively in World War I as a choking agent. It is poisonous at room temperature and can cause coughing, burning in the throat and eyes, blurred vision, shortness of breath, nausea, vomiting, and pulmonary edema. Some of the more serious effects can show up 48 hours after exposure, and those include difficulty breathing, low blood pressure, and heart failure. Chronic bronchitis and emphysema are reported permanent side effects of phosgene exposure. In other words, if it doesnt kill you, its going to alter your health permanently!Lincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torch
Reply:
Originally Posted by Gar
Check out Welding Tips and Tricks on YouTube. Jody is the man when it comes to online welding instructions. Also, NEVER USE BRAKE CLEANER to clean the metal before welding! And dont weld right ontop of the cement floor in your garage!Brake cleaner, when exposed to a welding arc, can produce hydrogen chloride and or phosgene. Phosgene was used extensively in World War I as a choking agent. It is poisonous at room temperature and can cause coughing, burning in the throat and eyes, blurred vision, shortness of breath, nausea, vomiting, and pulmonary edema. Some of the more serious effects can show up 48 hours after exposure, and those include difficulty breathing, low blood pressure, and heart failure. Chronic bronchitis and emphysema are reported permanent side effects of phosgene exposure. In other words, if it doesnt kill you, its going to alter your health permanently!
Reply:
Originally Posted by vandusen
okay guys please bear with me... i am not a welder, nor have any formal training... but i had a small home repair weld job come up and found a Big Max 225 stick welder for sale for $25 on Marketplace, so i bought it... pretty sure it is a Miller thunderbolt 225 clone... got it home and cleaned/lubed it up... went to try and do a couple test beads on a piece of 3/8 square structural tubing, and my 6011 and 7018 3/32 electrodes stick and pop, and will absolutely not run a bead at any amperage - however a 5/32 7018 will run a bead, albeit a ****ty one @ appx 100 amps... so i'm assuming the welder works, and i'm the weak link... i reversed the polarity to see if that would solve the issue, but i couldn't notice a difference after trying all the electrodes at different amperages... so the question is, is the base material too thick/heavy for the smaller electrodes to work? ...i'm not versed in the compatibility of material and electrodes as far as the relationship of how to balance the production of heat in order to acquire a functional bead... what basic principal am i overlooking...? thanks for any pointers -V |
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发表于 2022-7-3 15:51:52