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Not a welder, but, similar,,my new air handler for the heat pump was installed, the HVAC guys had NO IDEA what they were electrically doing,,Among other things, two wrong size breakers (WAY too large), then all the crazy wire splicing,, ( I think I counted 31 extra electrical connections in running the 220 volt wires to the air handler )I want to simply run new correct wires, replacing what they left in my home..( I would hire an electrician, but, from talking to the local building inspector, finding a qualified electrician that could do this correctly may be a challenge!! )The air handler is about 24 feet in conduit distance from the circuit breaker panel.I think I can get an electrical fish snake through the ceiling from the air handler, to the panel.There would only be one 90 degree turn, about 4 feet away from the breaker panel, otherwise, it is a straight shot.Home Depot, and Lowes sells a kit of 25 feet of Liquid Tight flexible conduit, with the needed ends for about ~$70.That would sure make life easy if I can run that for the wires.https://www.lowes.com/pd/HydroMaxx-1...ngs/1002931638I have enough THHN 10 gauge for one circuit, I would buy 4 gauge for the 60 amp breaker protected emergency heater circuit.Some conduit fill calculator said that I would only have about 26% fill, so the 1" size should work.Am I allowed to run that flexible Liquid Tight conduit ~25 feet inside of my home? One run sure would be easier than connecting a piece of rigid conduit in the middle of two pieces of Liquid Tight.I do have one other issue that involves the thermostat wires.The new unit installation manual says that the thermostat wires should be 18awg under 75 feet, 16awg if further.Well, my thermostat wires from the year 1977 install is 22 gauge, or maybe one size smaller.The HVAC guys said that the old wire is no problem to re-use.I sort of agreed with them, until I saw a service guy disconnect a wire at the outside unit to stop the compressor.When he disconnected the wire, a HUGE spark jumped!!
The low voltage "control" wiring must now be really carrying some serious amperage.A chart says 18 gauge is good for up to 17 amps,, I never dreamed that control would be above one or two amps.Now, I think I also need to pull new 18 gauge (or maybe even larger) to replace that small, old wire. Those wires total about 50 feet,,I am considering changing these wires because my new outside unit comes on erratically,,and, this crazy operation of the unit ( 3 different techs could not figure out the weird operation ) may be due to undersized wire?
Reply:I like that stuff. I used some in my garage and I also used it when I wired AC/DC power from my welder to my cab and to one of my boxes on my truck.It meets code requirements here in SC for the house.Lincoln 330MPXLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln LN-25X Wire FeederMagnum PRO 250LX GT Spool GunLincoln AC/DC 225¼ Ton of Torches OFC-A OFG-AAir Carbon Arc Gouging CAC-AEverlast 62i Plasma CutterIngersoll Rand T-30 14hpInstagram: #Freebird Welds
Reply:Willie can prolly say for sure, there might be a 6 ft limit but there might be a limit to be used as equipment ground. But, you need to look speifically for the listed wire and breakers for this machine. I am going to agree about 31 extra connects but the breaker to wire match may not be the same as it is for general circuits and may call for speific over current protection. I was in a mobile home park a while back, must have went thru and sold AC at one time and the installers had a 1 shot simple deal for it all,,,, they had a huge roll of SO and some 30 breakers. A couple minor code violations with that plan but really probably pretty good and may have been able to use same stock on size larger units too.Last edited by Sberry; 1 Day Ago at 09:27 PM.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
Not a welder, but, similar,,my new air handler for the heat pump was installed, the HVAC guys had NO IDEA what they were electrically doing,,Among other things, two wrong size breakers (WAY too large), then all the crazy wire splicing,, ( I think I counted 31 extra electrical connections in running the 220 volt wires to the air handler )I want to simply run new correct wires, replacing what they left in my home..( I would hire an electrician, but, from talking to the local building inspector, finding a qualified electrician that could do this correctly may be a challenge!! )The air handler is about 24 feet in conduit distance from the circuit breaker panel.I think I can get an electrical fish snake through the ceiling from the air handler, to the panel.There would only be one 90 degree turn, about 4 feet away from the breaker panel, otherwise, it is a straight shot.Home Depot, and Lowes sells a kit of 25 feet of Liquid Tight flexible conduit, with the needed ends for about ~$70.That would sure make life easy if I can run that for the wires.https://www.lowes.com/pd/HydroMaxx-1...ngs/1002931638I have enough THHN 10 gauge for one circuit, I would buy 4 gauge for the 60 amp breaker protected emergency heater circuit.Some conduit fill calculator said that I would only have about 26% fill, so the 1" size should work.Am I allowed to run that flexible Liquid Tight conduit ~25 feet inside of my home? One run sure would be easier than connecting a piece of rigid conduit in the middle of two pieces of Liquid Tight.I do have one other issue that involves the thermostat wires.The new unit installation manual says that the thermostat wires should be 18awg under 75 feet, 16awg if further.Well, my thermostat wires from the year 1977 install is 22 gauge, or maybe one size smaller.The HVAC guys said that the old wire is no problem to re-use.I sort of agreed with them, until I saw a service guy disconnect a wire at the outside unit to stop the compressor.When he disconnected the wire, a HUGE spark jumped!!
The low voltage "control" wiring must now be really carrying some serious amperage.A chart says 18 gauge is good for up to 17 amps,, I never dreamed that control would be above one or two amps.Now, I think I also need to pull new 18 gauge (or maybe even larger) to replace that small, old wire. Those wires total about 50 feet,,I am considering changing these wires because my new outside unit comes on erratically,,and, this crazy operation of the unit ( 3 different techs could not figure out the weird operation ) may be due to undersized wire?
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
Not a welder, but, similar,,my new air handler for the heat pump was installed, the HVAC guys had NO IDEA what they were electrically doing,,Among other things, two wrong size breakers (WAY too large), then all the crazy wire splicing,, ( I think I counted 31 extra electrical connections in running the 220 volt wires to the air handler )I want to simply run new correct wires, replacing what they left in my home..( I would hire an electrician, but, from talking to the local building inspector, finding a qualified electrician that could do this correctly may be a challenge!! )The air handler is about 24 feet in conduit distance from the circuit breaker panel.I think I can get an electrical fish snake through the ceiling from the air handler, to the panel.There would only be one 90 degree turn, about 4 feet away from the breaker panel, otherwise, it is a straight shot.Home Depot, and Lowes sells a kit of 25 feet of Liquid Tight flexible conduit, with the needed ends for about ~$70.That would sure make life easy if I can run that for the wires.https://www.lowes.com/pd/HydroMaxx-1...ngs/1002931638I have enough THHN 10 gauge for one circuit, I would buy 4 gauge for the 60 amp breaker protected emergency heater circuit.Some conduit fill calculator said that I would only have about 26% fill, so the 1" size should work.Am I allowed to run that flexible Liquid Tight conduit ~25 feet inside of my home? One run sure would be easier than connecting a piece of rigid conduit in the middle of two pieces of Liquid Tight.I do have one other issue that involves the thermostat wires.The new unit installation manual says that the thermostat wires should be 18awg under 75 feet, 16awg if further.Well, my thermostat wires from the year 1977 install is 22 gauge, or maybe one size smaller.The HVAC guys said that the old wire is no problem to re-use.I sort of agreed with them, until I saw a service guy disconnect a wire at the outside unit to stop the compressor.When he disconnected the wire, a HUGE spark jumped!!
The low voltage "control" wiring must now be really carrying some serious amperage.A chart says 18 gauge is good for up to 17 amps,, I never dreamed that control would be above one or two amps.Now, I think I also need to pull new 18 gauge (or maybe even larger) to replace that small, old wire. Those wires total about 50 feet,,I am considering changing these wires because my new outside unit comes on erratically,,and, this crazy operation of the unit ( 3 different techs could not figure out the weird operation ) may be due to undersized wire?
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
Not a welder, but, similar,,my new air handler for the heat pump was installed, the HVAC guys had NO IDEA what they were electrically doing,,Among other things, two wrong size breakers (WAY too large), then all the crazy wire splicing,, ( I think I counted 31 extra electrical connections in running the 220 volt wires to the air handler )I want to simply run new correct wires, replacing what they left in my home..( I would hire an electrician, but, from talking to the local building inspector, finding a qualified electrician that could do this correctly may be a challenge!! )The air handler is about 24 feet in conduit distance from the circuit breaker panel.I think I can get an electrical fish snake through the ceiling from the air handler, to the panel.There would only be one 90 degree turn, about 4 feet away from the breaker panel, otherwise, it is a straight shot.Home Depot, and Lowes sells a kit of 25 feet of Liquid Tight flexible conduit, with the needed ends for about ~$70.That would sure make life easy if I can run that for the wires.https://www.lowes.com/pd/HydroMaxx-1...ngs/1002931638I have enough THHN 10 gauge for one circuit, I would buy 4 gauge for the 60 amp breaker protected emergency heater circuit.Some conduit fill calculator said that I would only have about 26% fill, so the 1" size should work.Am I allowed to run that flexible Liquid Tight conduit ~25 feet inside of my home? One run sure would be easier than connecting a piece of rigid conduit in the middle of two pieces of Liquid Tight.I do have one other issue that involves the thermostat wires.The new unit installation manual says that the thermostat wires should be 18awg under 75 feet, 16awg if further.Well, my thermostat wires from the year 1977 install is 22 gauge, or maybe one size smaller.The HVAC guys said that the old wire is no problem to re-use.I sort of agreed with them, until I saw a service guy disconnect a wire at the outside unit to stop the compressor.When he disconnected the wire, a HUGE spark jumped!!
The low voltage "control" wiring must now be really carrying some serious amperage.A chart says 18 gauge is good for up to 17 amps,, I never dreamed that control would be above one or two amps.Now, I think I also need to pull new 18 gauge (or maybe even larger) to replace that small, old wire. Those wires total about 50 feet,,I am considering changing these wires because my new outside unit comes on erratically,,and, this crazy operation of the unit ( 3 different techs could not figure out the weird operation ) may be due to undersized wire?
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
Not a welder, but, similar,,my new air handler for the heat pump was installed, the HVAC guys had NO IDEA what they were electrically doing,,Among other things, two wrong size breakers (WAY too large), then all the crazy wire splicing,, ( I think I counted 31 extra electrical connections in running the 220 volt wires to the air handler )I want to simply run new correct wires, replacing what they left in my home..( I would hire an electrician, but, from talking to the local building inspector, finding a qualified electrician that could do this correctly may be a challenge!! )The air handler is about 24 feet in conduit distance from the circuit breaker panel.I think I can get an electrical fish snake through the ceiling from the air handler, to the panel.There would only be one 90 degree turn, about 4 feet away from the breaker panel, otherwise, it is a straight shot.Home Depot, and Lowes sells a kit of 25 feet of Liquid Tight flexible conduit, with the needed ends for about ~$70.That would sure make life easy if I can run that for the wires.https://www.lowes.com/pd/HydroMaxx-1...ngs/1002931638I have enough THHN 10 gauge for one circuit, I would buy 4 gauge for the 60 amp breaker protected emergency heater circuit.Some conduit fill calculator said that I would only have about 26% fill, so the 1" size should work.Am I allowed to run that flexible Liquid Tight conduit ~25 feet inside of my home? One run sure would be easier than connecting a piece of rigid conduit in the middle of two pieces of Liquid Tight.I do have one other issue that involves the thermostat wires.The new unit installation manual says that the thermostat wires should be 18awg under 75 feet, 16awg if further.Well, my thermostat wires from the year 1977 install is 22 gauge, or maybe one size smaller.The HVAC guys said that the old wire is no problem to re-use.I sort of agreed with them, until I saw a service guy disconnect a wire at the outside unit to stop the compressor.When he disconnected the wire, a HUGE spark jumped!!
The low voltage "control" wiring must now be really carrying some serious amperage.A chart says 18 gauge is good for up to 17 amps,, I never dreamed that control would be above one or two amps.Now, I think I also need to pull new 18 gauge (or maybe even larger) to replace that small, old wire. Those wires total about 50 feet,,I am considering changing these wires because my new outside unit comes on erratically,,and, this crazy operation of the unit ( 3 different techs could not figure out the weird operation ) may be due to undersized wire?
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
Not a welder, but, similar,,my new air handler for the heat pump was installed, the HVAC guys had NO IDEA what they were electrically doing,,Among other things, two wrong size breakers (WAY too large), then all the crazy wire splicing,, ( I think I counted 31 extra electrical connections in running the 220 volt wires to the air handler )I want to simply run new correct wires, replacing what they left in my home..( I would hire an electrician, but, from talking to the local building inspector, finding a qualified electrician that could do this correctly may be a challenge!! )The air handler is about 24 feet in conduit distance from the circuit breaker panel.I think I can get an electrical fish snake through the ceiling from the air handler, to the panel.There would only be one 90 degree turn, about 4 feet away from the breaker panel, otherwise, it is a straight shot.Home Depot, and Lowes sells a kit of 25 feet of Liquid Tight flexible conduit, with the needed ends for about ~$70.That would sure make life easy if I can run that for the wires.https://www.lowes.com/pd/HydroMaxx-1...ngs/1002931638I have enough THHN 10 gauge for one circuit, I would buy 4 gauge for the 60 amp breaker protected emergency heater circuit.Some conduit fill calculator said that I would only have about 26% fill, so the 1" size should work.Am I allowed to run that flexible Liquid Tight conduit ~25 feet inside of my home? One run sure would be easier than connecting a piece of rigid conduit in the middle of two pieces of Liquid Tight.I do have one other issue that involves the thermostat wires.The new unit installation manual says that the thermostat wires should be 18awg under 75 feet, 16awg if further.Well, my thermostat wires from the year 1977 install is 22 gauge, or maybe one size smaller.The HVAC guys said that the old wire is no problem to re-use.I sort of agreed with them, until I saw a service guy disconnect a wire at the outside unit to stop the compressor.When he disconnected the wire, a HUGE spark jumped!!
The low voltage "control" wiring must now be really carrying some serious amperage.A chart says 18 gauge is good for up to 17 amps,, I never dreamed that control would be above one or two amps.Now, I think I also need to pull new 18 gauge (or maybe even larger) to replace that small, old wire. Those wires total about 50 feet,,I am considering changing these wires because my new outside unit comes on erratically,,and, this crazy operation of the unit ( 3 different techs could not figure out the weird operation ) may be due to undersized wire?
Reply:This air handler is a heat pump air handler, so the air handler has two major heating elements as emergency backup heat.SO,,,,,,,,, I need a 60 amp breaker for the secondary backup, and a 25 amp breaker for the primary emergency backup, as well as the fan, control and thermostat power.I will run #4 to the 60 amp breaker, and #10 to the 25 amp breaker. ( I have the wire, so no cost is involved.)I also have the necessary ground wires.The outdoor unit was installed on a 40 amp breaker, the unit states "protect with 25 amps maximum",, so a new breaker is coming.Here are a couple pics of some of the wiring,, they wanted to re-use the #2 aluminum wire, rather than run a new 20 foot piece of the proper wire.The boxes they used were normally at the outside unit as local disconnects. Pull the plug at the top, you disconnect the power.Well these boxes are designed for #3 wire as the maximum size. The trimmed away the extra strands of #2 wires to make them fit into the box connectors.Then the building inspector told them "DO NOT TRIM WIRES TO MAKE THEM SMALLER"So, they changed to some sort of split bolt clamp,, and tape.. as well as a red wire nut.How do you fit #2 and #10 wires into a red wire nut??The inspector did not catch this one until the 4th or 5th inspection because the cover was installed, and they put the plug-in disconnector back into the top.
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Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
This air handler is a heat pump air handler, so the air handler has two major heating elements as emergency backup heat.SO,,,,,,,,, I need a 60 amp breaker for the secondary backup, and a 25 amp breaker for the primary emergency backup, as well as the fan, control and thermostat power.I will run #4 to the 60 amp breaker, and #10 to the 25 amp breaker. ( I have the wire, so no cost is involved.)I also have the necessary ground wires.The outdoor unit was installed on a 40 amp breaker, the unit states "protect with 25 amps maximum",, so a new breaker is coming.Here are a couple pics of some of the wiring,, they wanted to re-use the #2 aluminum wire, rather than run a new 20 foot piece of the proper wire.The boxes they used were normally at the outside unit as local disconnects. Pull the plug at the top, you disconnect the power.Well these boxes are designed for #3 wire as the maximum size. The trimmed away the extra strands of #2 wires to make them fit into the box connectors.Then the building inspector told them "DO NOT TRIM WIRES TO MAKE THEM SMALLER"So, they changed to some sort of split bolt clamp,, and tape.. as well as a red wire nut.How do you fit #2 and #10 wires into a red wire nut??The inspector did not catch this one until the 4th or 5th inspection because the cover was installed, and they put the plug-in disconnector back into the top.
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
This air handler is a heat pump air handler, so the air handler has two major heating elements as emergency backup heat.SO,,,,,,,,, I need a 60 amp breaker for the secondary backup, and a 25 amp breaker for the primary emergency backup, as well as the fan, control and thermostat power.I will run #4 to the 60 amp breaker, and #10 to the 25 amp breaker. ( I have the wire, so no cost is involved.)I also have the necessary ground wires.The outdoor unit was installed on a 40 amp breaker, the unit states "protect with 25 amps maximum",, so a new breaker is coming.Here are a couple pics of some of the wiring,, they wanted to re-use the #2 aluminum wire, rather than run a new 20 foot piece of the proper wire.The boxes they used were normally at the outside unit as local disconnects. Pull the plug at the top, you disconnect the power.Well these boxes are designed for #3 wire as the maximum size. The trimmed away the extra strands of #2 wires to make them fit into the box connectors.Then the building inspector told them "DO NOT TRIM WIRES TO MAKE THEM SMALLER"So, they changed to some sort of split bolt clamp,, and tape.. as well as a red wire nut.How do you fit #2 and #10 wires into a red wire nut??The inspector did not catch this one until the 4th or 5th inspection because the cover was installed, and they put the plug-in disconnector back into the top.
Reply:Just think,,,, those guys do this work every day.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:Sealtite or Carflex indoors is sure sign of a hack job. Meant for outside weather proof applications.Greenfield Flex is what you run inside.Running either one exposed for more than 3-6 feet is another hack. You can not properly strap either one to look good exposed for any distance,Longer runs exposed should be in EMT.Last edited by danielplace; 18 Hours Ago at 08:53 AM.
Reply:
Originally Posted by William McCormick
If they put a split bolt connector then you no longer have a means to disconnect other than the breaker that feeds them which is illegal and crazy. Many air handlers when you add strip heaters have a molex that allows you to plug your control board into the strip heaters. But you are supposed to put a disconnect at the air handler as well. I prefer a disconnect with a handle outside the box myself. You are supposed to power the outside condenser/heat pump, on its own circuit separate from the air handler with a run directly to the main panel nothing else can be on that circuit. Many AC guys do it wrong and steal the power from the condenser for the air handler. I would call someone in that knows what they are doing and fire those guys myself. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:
Originally Posted by danielplace
Running a airhandler and a compressor on same breaker is not wrong. It is called non-coincidental loads and are perfectly fine when done correctly. It is done everyday legally.https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/...-loads.131362/
Reply:The two previous pics are AFTER four or five county building inspections,,Prior to the first inspection,, this is what was installed for the electrical supply,, (NOTE: This is the first time WW has rotated my pics!!??
)That is #2 aluminum running into the two boxes,, is there any code violation here?? ``~``
The Romex that comes out of the bottom of the box is in a strain relief connector,, but, the screws were not tightened.(ALSO,, the Romex was strung from the wall to the air handler like a "clothes line")Do not worry for me,, I got financial restitution for the poor workmanship.As far as hiring an electrician,, how do I find one that is better than the crew that installed this unit?In tracking down parts and supplies to meet code and installation manual instructions, so far:1) I have ordered stuff from Home Depot (not available in their store)2) I have ordered stuff from two different suppliers on Amazon (not available from Lowes or Home Depot)3) I picked up a couple items from Lowes yesterdayIn having dealt with local electrical supply places prior to this,, they do not have ANY trouble telling the customer to install a new panel,, if they do not have the correct breaker,,money and time is no object to them,,,so, I have sort of avoided the dedicated electrical supply places.
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Reply:
Originally Posted by bigb
I don't think the OP has non-coincidental loads, the heat pump/compressor will always run with the air handler.
Reply:
Originally Posted by danielplace
It is most often seen with electric heat in the airhandler and a condensing unit. My point was it is not automatically a problem to have the airhandler and a condensing unit on the same breaker/circuit. The high load will only be in one unit at a time. The airhandler fan is always part of the load but not the heat strips and compressor at once so it is all good.Yea his situation is different heat pump and heat strips in the airhandler. Both high draw. Both can run at same time. Not a coincidental load.
Reply:So,,, can he or cant he?www.urkafarms.com
Reply:I donjt know one piece from another but isnt the minimum circuit and max breaker listed? If its got a max obviously cant be part of a larger combined circuit???www.urkafarms.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by Sberry
I donjt know one piece from another but isnt the minimum circuit and max breaker listed? If its got a max obviously cant be part of a larger combined circuit???
Reply:My breaker panel is located between the air handler, and the outside unit.So, in my case, having separate breakers was easier.My amp limits were sort of crazy,,the outside unit pulls about 17 amps when running,, max breaker rating is 25 amps.I was concerned that a 20 amp breaker was a little too close to the actual running amps.(not wanting "nuisance" trips) so I wanted a 25 amp breaker.THEN,,I found that getting a 25 amp GFCI breaker for my Square D QO panel is almost impossible, except for one guy on Amazon.(I read that the outdoor units now require a GFCI breaker due to people bumping into the wiring, kids on bikes, mowers,, etc,,))
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
My breaker panel is located between the air handler, and the outside unit.So, in my case, having separate breakers was easier.My amp limits were sort of crazy,,the outside unit pulls about 17 amps when running,, max breaker rating is 25 amps.I was concerned that a 20 amp breaker was a little too close to the actual running amps.(not wanting "nuisance" trips) so I wanted a 25 amp breaker.THEN,,I found that getting a 25 amp GFCI breaker for my Square D QO panel is almost impossible, except for one guy on Amazon.(I read that the outdoor units now require a GFCI breaker due to people bumping into the wiring, kids on bikes, mowers,, etc,,))
Reply:
Originally Posted by Willie B
I don't think that is true. ALL receptacles outside must be GFCI protected. I'm not aware fixed machinery has to be. You need a service outlet 15 amp 120 volt. That must be GFCI protected.I would bet it'd run fine on a 20 amp breaker.
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
I think the concern is the flexible "whip" that is ~5 or 6 feet long between the unit, and the disconnect,, that could get pulled out.With the grandchildren running around, I feel better with the GFCI.Yea, 20 might have worked, but, 25 was very close in price, just harder to get, and longer lead time,,,
As far as the sealtight you can run it as far as you want so long as you secure it at the minimum required intervals. As mentioned, it will look unprofessional and will be impossible to pull wire into it. Greenfield or Smurf would be better, and EMT best. Or Romex. The six foot rule comes into play for flexible fixture whips in grid ceilings, they are limited to 6 feet before they have to be secured. The other six foot rule applies to using metallic sealtight for a grounding conductor, the limit used to be six feet but now that all outdoor conduit requires a grounding conductor to be included it is no longer applicable.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:There are support rules for NMLT. Much like conduit it should have support near each end, then 3' or six feet depending on circumstance. You talk of two circuits, one being 60 amps. That'll take big NMLT flex. At least four current carrying conductors, I think you're talking 80% load. Not how I'd do it. I'd favor a feeder to an outside breaker panel. Then a breaker feeding each load. I'm still unclear if the 60 amp heater is a part of the heat pump, or its own load. 30 years ago it was considered VT didn't have enough heat in the air for a heat pump to work when it was very cold. I never wrapped my brain around it, but somehow supplementing air heat with a bit of electric resistance heat made it work. I no longer hear it mentioned. I'm not clear if it is a heat pump plus heaters, or a heat pump OR heaters.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Can't speak to this specific system, but all I have seen have a "crossover" temp range when the electric runs with the compressor, si ce the heat from the compressor/pump does not just quit, but falls off as the temp decreased. My system, for example, has a dual speed compressor as well as two stage electric, so stages electric in as needed after going to high compressor. Below a certain temp, the compressor will lock out to avoid excessive energy use and potential damage, leaving you 100% electric.
Reply:
Originally Posted by danielplace
It is most often seen with electric heat in the airhandler and a condensing unit. My point was it is not automatically a problem to have the airhandler and a condensing unit on the same breaker/circuit. The high load will only be in one unit at a time. The airhandler fan is always part of the load but not the heat strips and compressor at once so it is all good.Yea his situation is different heat pump and heat strips in the airhandler. Both high draw. Both can run at same time. Not a coincidental load.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Willie B
There are support rules for NMLT. Much like conduit it should have support near each end, then 3' or six feet depending on circumstance. You talk of two circuits, one being 60 amps. That'll take big NMLT flex. At least four current carrying conductors, I think you're talking 80% load. Not how I'd do it. I'd favor a feeder to an outside breaker panel. Then a breaker feeding each load. I'm still unclear if the 60 amp heater is a part of the heat pump, or its own load. 30 years ago it was considered VT didn't have enough heat in the air for a heat pump to work when it was very cold. I never wrapped my brain around it, but somehow supplementing air heat with a bit of electric resistance heat made it work. I no longer hear it mentioned. I'm not clear if it is a heat pump plus heaters, or a heat pump OR heaters.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Willie B
There are support rules for NMLT. Much like conduit it should have support near each end, then 3' or six feet depending on circumstance. You talk of two circuits, one being 60 amps. That'll take big NMLT flex. At least four current carrying conductors, I think you're talking 80% load. Not how I'd do it. I'd favor a feeder to an outside breaker panel. Then a breaker feeding each load. I'm still unclear if the 60 amp heater is a part of the heat pump, or its own load. 30 years ago it was considered VT didn't have enough heat in the air for a heat pump to work when it was very cold. I never wrapped my brain around it, but somehow supplementing air heat with a bit of electric resistance heat made it work. I no longer hear it mentioned. I'm not clear if it is a heat pump plus heaters, or a heat pump OR heaters. |
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发表于 2022-6-16 15:51:54