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I have a severely stuck MT3 arbor in the quill on my drill press. Trying to eliminate run out I tapped on the chuck and the arbor broke. I tried heating and putting penetrating oil around the tang and giving a drift a good whack but it wouldn't budge. There is a possibility loctite may have been used on the taper. I loaned the drill press to a friend and who knows what he did with it. There is about 3/8" of the arbor sticking out. Being out of options I was thinking of welding some flat bar on the extended arbor that I could hit on if needed but hoping the shock from the heat of welding would loosen the taper enough it would let loose. I now it works good for removing stuck and/or broken off bolts. Do you think this could work and if not is there some other way to get the arbor out?
Reply:Drill Drift through the slots at the top of the arbor sleeve. Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:Make your own drift wedge with a very slow taper, polish the faces with a flap disc, grease them and whack it good. Been there on a big radial arm press.
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Originally Posted by Welder Dave
I have a severely stuck MT3 arbor in the quill on my drill press. Trying to eliminate run out I tapped on the chuck and the arbor broke. I tried heating and putting penetrating oil around the tang and giving a drift a good whack but it wouldn't budge. There is a possibility loctite may have been used on the taper. I loaned the drill press to a friend and who knows what he did with it. There is about 3/8" of the arbor sticking out. Being out of options I was thinking of welding some flat bar on the extended arbor that I could hit on if needed but hoping the shock from the heat of welding would loosen the taper enough it would let loose. I now it works good for removing stuck and/or broken off bolts. Do you think this could work and if not is there some other way to get the arbor out?
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. One of these.Miller xmt304, Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
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Use that drift wedge in the spindle slot like this. You may need to turn spindle in the quill so it lines up.Miller xmt304, Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
Reply:Did you use loctie- ?Dave
Originally Posted by Welder Dave
I have a severely stuck MT3 arbor in the quill on my drill press. Trying to eliminate run out I tapped on the chuck and the arbor broke. I tried heating and putting penetrating oil around the tang and giving a drift a good whack but it wouldn't budge. There is a possibility loctite may have been used on the taper. I loaned the drill press to a friend and who knows what he did with it. There is about 3/8" of the arbor sticking out. Being out of options I was thinking of welding some flat bar on the extended arbor that I could hit on if needed but hoping the shock from the heat of welding would loosen the taper enough it would let loose. I now it works good for removing stuck and/or broken off bolts. Do you think this could work and if not is there some other way to get the arbor out?
Reply:Don't know if loctite was used. Typical when loaning something to someone else that doesn't totally understand how it's supposed to work. I remember he said he fixed the run out several years ago but don't know what he did. It still had about 14 thou. run out. Maybe the arbor was bad, maybe the chuck was bad, I don't know but will happily get a new arbor and chuck if I can get the broken arbor out. I have a drift and even welded some hard facing on the edges but the arbor isn't budging after spraying penetrating oil around the tang and heating the quill opposite to where the slots are for inserting the drift. It was fairly hot but I didn't want to get it too hot because there is a bearing near the bottom of the quill. The penetrating oil was smoking. Looks similar to what MJD has posted except the slot is longer (not a round hole at the top) and the tang on the arbor goes about 1/2 way up it. There is also another column around the quill that has notches in the back for the gear to lower the assembly when drilling. I can see that the penetrating oil should go down alongside the taper under the tang. I beat on the drift and turned it 180 deg's. and beat it some more and no go. Maybe I could try hitting the part of the arbor that extends but I think the drift would put a lot more force on it. I'm hoping the instant heat from welding would expand and then shrink the arbor so it comes out. If loctite was used would think the heat from welding should be enough to break it free. I don't what else I could try. Welding something on I could use a slide hammer or that I could pound on from each side at the same time? It's very frustrating. It's hard to heat up just the quill and cool the arbor. They are basically like a solid piece of steel when they're stuck together. The quill is inside an even larger part that has the notches in the back for the gear teeth to move the whole assembly down when drilling.Last edited by Welder Dave; 8 Hours Ago at 07:16 PM.
Reply:Hit both sides of the spindle with a lead hammer at the same time. Might shock it loose. Works for balljoints!Shock is generally better than constant force for this sort of thing. If you drive the drift into it and it doesn't budge, try rapping on it with a lead (or brass?) hammer. Taking about the spindle, not the tooling. Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by Welder Dave
Don't know if loctite was used. Typical when loaning something to someone else that doesn't totally understand how it's supposed to work. I remember he said he fixed the run out several years ago but don't know what he did. It still had about 14 thou. run out. Maybe the arbor was bad, maybe the chuck was bad, I don't know but will happily get a new arbor and chuck if I can get the broken arbor out. I have a drift and even welded some hard facing on the edges but the arbor isn't budging after spraying penetrating oil around the tang and heating the quill opposite to where the slots are for inserting the drift. It was fairly warm but I didn't want to get it too hot because there is a bearing near the bottom of the quill. The penetrating oil was smoking. Looks very similar to what MJD has posted except the slot is longer (not a round hole at the top) and the tang on the arbor goes about 1/2 way up it. I can see that the penetrating oil should go down alongside the taper under the tang. I beat on the drift and turned it 180 deg's. and beat it some more and no go. Maybe I could try hitting the part of the arbor that extends but I think the drift would put a lot more force on it. I'm hoping the instant heat from welding will expand and then shrink the arbor so it comes out. If loctite was used would think the heat from welding should be enough to break it free. I don't what else I could try. Welding something on I could use a slide hammer or pound on from each side?
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Originally Posted by 12V71
Make your own drift wedge with a very slow taper, polish the faces with a flap disc, grease them and whack it good. Been there on a big radial arm press.
Reply:Could you weld a nut on 2 sides of the arbor? By torqueing bolts against the spindle it should pop it loose. I've used that to remove arbors from drill chucks and it worked pretty easy.
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Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Drill press spindles usually come out easily. On your basic belt drive DPs, you can remove the top pulley, pull the pinion/clockspring/handle assembly from the side, and the spindle with slide out from the bottom. Might be easier working on it at the bench. Don't worry about getting it too hot. Only thing that you might have to keep an eye on are the seals on the bearings (if it has any). Not a bad idea to repack the bearings, anyway. Pull the bearings out, pop off the seals or shields with a sharp pick, wash them in solvent, dry, then do a partial fill with grease. Maybe 30-50 percent fill? Too much grease it you get excessive heat build up. Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:Hammer drill in hammer mode on the drift
Reply:ive have/had drill bits where tang got twisted, and hard to get in/out. ive seen them twisted/broke off too. maybe possible some sort of twisting distortion happened before u got it.
Reply:How do you "tap" on an arbor, and break it?
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Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Hit both sides of the spindle with a lead hammer at the same time. Might shock it loose. Works for balljoints!Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by farmersammm
How do you "tap" on an arbor, and break it?
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Originally Posted by 123weld
ive have/had drill bits where tang got twisted, and hard to get in/out. ive seen them twisted/broke off too. maybe possible some sort of twisting distortion happened before u got it.
Reply:Cast steel?Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:And heat treat... Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:
Originally Posted by M J D
Could you weld a nut on 2 sides of the arbor? By torqueing bolts against the spindle it should pop it loose. I've used that to remove arbors from drill chucks and it worked pretty easy.
Reply:Does your spindle have a through-hole for draw bar like on milling machines?
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Originally Posted by Welder Dave
Maybe, I was thinking of somehow to push it off with bolts or a puller type deal. If I put a heavy washer over the broken arbor the bolts would have something to push against.
Reply:No through hole on the spindle/quill. It's solid at the top of the slot above the tang on the arbor. It's pretty heavy material around the quill too. There is a slot in the outer material that you have to line with the slot in the quill to put the drift in. This holds the bearing for the bottom of the quill. I wish the quill came down on it's own, like in MJD's pic., it would be a lot easier to heat just the quill and/or cool the arbor at the same time. I think welding a flat bar to the broken arbor with 2 nuts welded on it might be the best option. If the heat from welding isn't enough for the drift, I can turn a couple bolts to put some even pressure on it and then give the drift a smack to shock it loose... Hopefully.Last edited by Welder Dave; 1 Hour Ago at 02:34 AM.
Originally Posted by Welder Dave
No through hole on the spindle/quill. It's solid at the top of the slot above the tang on the arbor. It's pretty heavy material around the quill too. There is a slot in the outer material that you have to line with the slot in the quill to put the drift in. This holds the bearing for the bottom of the quill. I wish the quill came down on it's own, like in MJD's pic., it would be a lot easier to heat just the quill and/or cool the arbor at the same time. I think welding a flat bar to the broken arbor with 2 nuts welded on it might be the best option. If the heat from welding isn't enough for the drift, I can turn a couple bolts to put some even pressure on it and then give the drift a smack to shock it loose... Hopefully. |
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发表于 2022-5-31 16:00:33