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Other thread got crapped up by political baloney, so let's try it again I guess.Took a while to get the machine, and ME, dialed in.
They both aren't bad, but the wire speed is still a bit slow.......needs more amps for a smoother burnoff. You can see the pronounced ripples as the puddle froze beneath the arc. You can tell they're uphill welds.Now we're back in the groove. nice creamy smooth weld. Just took a bit more wire speed to run hotter. I always figure an uphill weld should look pretty much like a flat weld, not lumpy. Ain't bad for a dood that kin hardly see anymore
Still on the list for the eye doc. Ought to get approval sometime in a few weeks, so they say
Had been hoping for last December, but stuff got in the way.Finished welding the frames, and straightened the steel.
The usual drill.....heat shrink it back to what it's supposed to be.
(Chef's Kiss
)I'm glad to be done with the uphill.............it was really tough to try to get back to somewhere near what I used to do..............Last edited by farmersammm; 4 Weeks Ago at 10:26 PM.Reason: added a coupla sentences.
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Got the gussets cut, and should install them sometime tomorrow between rain storms I guess. These are the reason the bottom crossmember had to be straightened. You need to have everything straight for gussets to fit..........unless you want to cope each one.
Reply:Rubber gloves under your gauntlets, mud boots on, 6010's, get er dun
Reply:You are lucky with your vision,,,,,,,I was talking to a neighbor yesterday, he is 74 years old.His doc told him he had something like a mini-stroke that affected his vision,, he is blind in the upper right quadrant of his vision.He said to be able to read it,, he has to tilt his head when watching Fox News, if he wants to read the banner scrolling across the bottom of the screen.Could you imagine how tough it would be to weld, if you had to tilt your head to see the bead!!??
My real surprise was when he jumped in his Dodge 3/4 ton pickup, and drove away!!
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Originally Posted by SweetMK
You are lucky with your vision,,,,,,,My real surprise was when he jumped in his Dodge 3/4 ton pickup, and drove away!!
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Originally Posted by SweetMK
You are lucky with your vision,,,,,,,I was talking to a neighbor yesterday, he is 74 years old.His doc told him he had something like a mini-stroke that affected his vision,, he is blind in the upper right quadrant of his vision.He said to be able to read it,, he has to tilt his head when watching Fox News, if he wants to read the banner scrolling across the bottom of the screen.Could you imagine how tough it would be to weld, if you had to tilt your head to see the bead!!??
My real surprise was when he jumped in his Dodge 3/4 ton pickup, and drove away!!
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Here's the pics
They look kinda weird because I gotta hold my eyelids up to get a good shot of the eye itself. I'm gettin' older every day, and just about everything I gots, is startin' to droop. Old age, and gravity ain't a good combination
On a good day, I pretty much look like this....................
Anyways
..........................................
Under regular light from the lights in the bathroom.
Using the flash on the camera (WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Talk about walkin' around blind for a while........took a bit for the flash to wear off
)I tell K'kins she's beautiful........................."What the Hell do you know, you're half blind". I don't care. What I can see of her, looks pretty damn good
Reply:That's why they have those little bumps around their nipples.... it's braille for when we get older...My Dad went through the laser surgery... once you get over the thought, it really wasn't a big deal and made a huge difference to his sight.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I had cataract surgery a few years back. It's a piece of cake. Ten minutes in the chair. You're not supposed to drive home but I did both times. " guess I'll wait outside for my cab..." then hop in my truck in full view of the waiting room window.
Chute. Sorry samm didn't mean to sidetrack. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
Reply:sammm...as soon as you can, get the d*amn cataract surgery done!!! My wife and I had both eyes done a couple of years ago, in our 70's, one eye at a time, 20/20 now. It doesn't hurt, just takes a few minutes, you can see right after the surgery, but they put preventive cups and pads over each eye after surgery for a day for protection, then just eye drops for a few days.
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Originally Posted by Lis2323
Chute. Sorry samm didn't mean to sidetrack. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Nah, cut down a coupla coke bottles, strap the bases on with duct tape, good to go🥸
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Blew a good part of the day moving the trailer around, and determining door sill height at different locations, taking into consideration the variation in the ground surface. Had to come up with an average starting point for the ramp hanging height.
Plan is to modify this ramp I made years ago to load a cow that had barbed wire wrapped around her leg. She was unable to step up into the trailer. Need to cut it down to fit inside the chute, and modify the front edge. Cleats will be added on the top side. I've had some near falls when they go up the ramp. Diamond plate is inadequate for cattle.
One of the supports to be used to pin the ramp at different heights.An issue I've run into, is whether to partially sheet the sides next to the ramp, instead of using the wire cattle panel. Cows can slip going up steel ramps, and my worry is that if the cow/calf has its legs go sideways, they could get caught in the wire mesh. To prevent this, I believe I'll sheet the sides with light gage sheet metal at this point. Up to the start of the ramp, I can use the wire cattle panel.I wanted to go longer on this thing, but decided to stay at 8'. I'm not sure I made the right decision. K'kins kind of pushed for 8', with the idea of adding to it if it proves inadequate.An adult cow takes up around 6+ feet in a chute. I wanted at least 10' of chute so that the cow wouldn't be climbing before it fully entered the chute, and I really wanted 16' to provide room for at least 2 adult cows to make for a flow. I can attach some standard portable corral panels to the thing to lengthen it(although they can be flimsy), but I really wanted it as a single unit fully tied together to prevent the sides from blowing out. Cows work easier if they're pushed by the cow behind them. Conversely, when you establish a flow, they will follow the cow in front of them.The only drawback to something 16' long is that it becomes very sensitive to having fairly level ground to set it up on. And, I'm not sure I want to handle something 16' long without a loader. She may be right about the shorter length to start with.
Reply:8 shouldn't be bad... I had a shorter one for the pigs and they do get heavy when you make them strong. Mine used 2x8's rather than metal situated sideways for strength. They do get slippery so I had little strips of wood added about every 10" for traction. I've seen the same thing done with short angle irons...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
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Originally Posted by whtbaron
8 shouldn't be bad... I had a shorter one for the pigs and they do get heavy when you make them strong. Mine used 2x8's rather than metal situated sideways for strength. They do get slippery so I had little strips of wood added about every 10" for traction. I've seen the same thing done with short angle irons...
Reply:With that low of deck height 8’ is more then enough. We built one for loading semi cattle pots that’s only 14’ long. Sheeting the lower portion is good to keep the feet and legs in as is having cleats on the floor because their nature is to jump off and you don’t want the feet slidingMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
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Originally Posted by farmshop
With that low of deck height 8 is more then enough. We built one for loading semi cattle pots thats only 14 long. Sheeting the lower portion is good to keep the feet and legs in as is having cleats on the floor because their nature is to jump off and you dont want the feet sliding
Reply:Bad day today. Couldn't get the welder to run right. I hate wire welders. This ain't old for y'all that know..........I've never liked them.Finally dumped the wire in the crapper, and switched it out for Lincoln wire. Blue Magoo(Blue Demon) is in the dust bin.
Couldn't get the stuff to run any better than this. Different amp settings, and still some weird welds. The arc doesn't run smooth. Been fighting this the entire project. It's just not predictable.
Yanked the wire out of the welder, and put some Lincoln in. Better.I hate this stuff, and I hate light weight metal. I just don't have the skill set to do it right. I guess I'm a one trick pony.
Reply:I know one thing for sure - them cows don't care what it looks like!
Reply:In all seriousness, and not to get into a big thing about it, but how hard would it be to adjust the coupler to drop that rear threshold about 3" and eliminate the need for that finger-pinching ramp entirely? Your quoted figures don't work- it cant go from 22" off the ground to dragging the ground with just a slight adjustment at the coupler, unless the rear axles are right at the trailer jack. The geometry doesn't support what you're saying.
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Installed the supports for the ramp, and straightened the bottom so it'll sit level on the trestles when it's time to put the side rails on. I fought it for over an hour, then realized that there was so much locked up stress that it was impssible to perfectly straighten. Making the ends of the crossmember at an equal height was the best that could be done.
Once I gave up on total perfection, it was a 10 minute job, with one setup.
I can live with this.
The Lincoln wire ran well when I didn't lose my lines
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K'kins saw the pulley on the kitchen counter last night, and asked what it was for. "It's so you won't have to work so hard to lift the ramp onto the cross pin"
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Setting the pin supports was a PITA. The place in the driveway that places the slider door sill at 22"(the required ramp height to clear the slider door sill when it's at 20") is probably about the highest it might be, in the area we intend to use the chute. At the back gate, where the graveled road ends............the sill sits about 17" high. There's an infinite number of variables, depending on where the trailer wheels, or the truck wheels are. My pin height will run from 16" to 26". I refuse to adjust the coupler to lower ground clearance. With as little clearance as there is, the trailer can bottom on entrances to driveways in town, or on uneven ground anywhere else.The ramp has to clear the slider door sill. I don't want them tripping over it,, or putting weight on it if they step on it. The bull almost did a header when I loaded him at the vet. We have never used the slider to load cattle here on the place, so the sill has never been an issue. But as we're getting older, and have to be able to work around mud problems these days...........the slider is now an option for loading. Less stress on all involved
The design for the ramp is a done deal at this point. It's the best of all worlds, if anything can be I guess
Reply:Ooooops
The pin adjusts from 16" to 24". Edit: Hell, it's at 18"...........had to go out and measure it again. 18" gives me enough height for the sill sitting at 16" or less. At anything less than 16" the flap/bridge will make the transition.I dunno..............maybe 16" woulda been better. A year from now, I'll forget I even stressed over it
Last edited by farmersammm; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:07 PM.
Reply:It's your pig, do whatever you want with it. As long as the trailer pulls level when it's loaded, the coupler is at the right height, in my world at least. I will share that some of the best money I've spent on this place is for geofabric and crusher run rock, and some earthmoving grade work to get rid of the mudholes. It's a lot easier just to not have to deal with a mudhole, and cattle aren't going to move or load worth a damn out of one anyway.
MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THESE JACKSTANDS BRING A WHOLE NEW DIMENSION TO FABRICATING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The second best thing I've ever made,,,,,,,,,the loader was the best. I love these things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Level, and square on the base. Plumb on the ends. Just have to pull it all plumb where the stretchers connect. I've never had it this easy!!!!!!!
Reply:I'M LIVIN' IN THE 21st CENTURY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:I'm Livin' The Dream!!
Reply:Lookin' good, samm! Is the little snatch block for a vertical sliding gate?Ol' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
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Originally Posted by farmersammm
I'M LIVIN' IN THE 21st CENTURY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Originally Posted by farmersammm
MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THESE JACKSTANDS BRING A WHOLE NEW DIMENSION TO FABRICATING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The second best thing I've ever made,,,,,,,,,the loader was the best. I love these things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Level, and square on the base. Plumb on the ends. Just have to pull it all plumb where the stretchers connect. I've never had it this easy!!!!!!!
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Originally Posted by mla2ofus
Lookin' good, samm! Is the little snatch block for a vertical sliding gate?
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Originally Posted by farmersammm
I'M LIVIN' IN THE 21st CENTURY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:We have an interesting discussion going on about how to mount a winch in a dump bed trailer.I distill everything down to beams. EVERYTHING, just about, is built using beams. The entire loading chute is comprised of beams, and columns.I didn't like the idea of using 14ga material(actually I'm still not crazy about it), but a beam analysis shows me that the material is adequate...........if just barely. To simulate worst case scenario, I've point loaded every beam in the thing, then did the same thing based on a distributed load. The sides are the most crucial, as you'd imagine..........Will an animal be able to blow out the sides of the chute.The longest beams are the rails that go from entrance to exit. The sides. I'm on the razor's edge. Each beam can take up to a 500# center point load without deforming (33Ksi stress). Top, and bottom beams, sharing a load.........can take a total of 1000# force without deforming. But add a 3rd beam, and you're now splitting the load 3 ways. This drops the individual beam load to around 300#(20Ksi). The mesh panel, and a mid point upright, will distribute the load fairly evenly over the entire system. I believe you've heard me talk about membranes when it comes to using diamond plate for trailer flooring. A membrane does a wonderful job of spreading loads across a wide area.
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Originally Posted by shortfuse
sammm...as soon as you can, get the d*amn cataract surgery done!!! My wife and I had both eyes done a couple of years ago, in our 70's, one eye at a time, 20/20 now. It doesn't hurt, just takes a few minutes, you can see right after the surgery, but they put preventive cups and pads over each eye after surgery for a day for protection, then just eye drops for a few days.
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Originally Posted by duaneb55
What he said Samm. Have had both eyes done about 2 years apart several years ago. Like your experience, night driving became a challenge but now no problem.Quick, painless and easy. Pre-op takes longer than the actual procedure. Still wear cheaters for reading, welding and close-up work and would do it again in a heartbeat if I had to.
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All the fillets on the frame are done...............then the storms came in. I was just to the point of doing the butt welds. It might be days before I can get to them now. The tubing has water in it from the rain, and it's supposed to rain again tomorrow. It takes a good hot sunny day to get the water evaporated from inside tubing.The wind was running upwards of 30mph all day, which really messed with the work. I don't like to run a welder in high winds. It messes with the shielding, especially flux core with its minimal slag coverage. Is what it is I guess. This thing needs to be out the door.Got the welder dialed in finally, but it's still a mess. This has nothing to do with eyesight.I purchased the new welder in 2017. It ran like a dream.Sometime in 2019 IIRC, I was welding on a bale wrapper, and grounded the contact tip. Being mostly a stick guy, I didn't release the trigger (it never occurred to me) and did what I do when a rod sticks..........yanked it off the steel(if it's really stuck, I get the stinger off the rod). This took a bit of time because the tip was stuck pretty good. It was shorted for a few seconds.The welder wouldn't run for crap after this. Looked at the gun, and the braided copper in the liner was burned where it enters the gun. Replaced the gun/liner assembly, and continued using the welder. It's never run great since.At lower settings, the arc is erratic. Lot of arc outages as your welding. And, you can't push your wire speed like when it was new. This is why I bought the 220V machine.........the ability to run wire very fast with a nice arc......no stubbing. And, the ability to run a normal stickout. The old HH135 had to be run with the contact tip almost touching the steel..you couldn't increase stickout beyond about 1/4".Voltage settings have become different too. I used to run 14ga at the #2 tap with wire speed at 35. Now, I have to run at #3 tap and turn the wire speed down to 20. It just won't take the faster wire speeds at lower voltage anymore without sputtering, and spitting. And I'm fighting with that stupid short stickout again like the old smaller amp welder.I've been meaning to take the damn thing to the shop to see what's going on, but as usual, I never get around to it........................and wind up having to use it.Hobart tech support guy said it might be the rectifiers. Something about looking at them to see if they're burned/open. I can't recall if I ever did it, or did it, and saw nothing amiss(shrug).This is why I hate these wire welders, always have,, always will. I guess I can't say I hate ALL of them. The LN25 is a beautiful wire feeder.I know my eyesight is bad now, but there's some things that should be the same...................how a damn welder runs.This was back when the welder was new....file data says pics taken in 2017Overhead fillet, and butt weld in the as welded position.
One of the same series of welds with the porta panel sitting on the ground as it's actually to be used
I always say that an out of position weld should look like it was done flat. I know it sounds azzholeish, but I actually have always worked hard to make it that way. And.....with wire, being as easy as it is to weld with...........it shouldn't be a hard stretch to accomplish.The settings on the machine
Back then, this thing ran smoooooth. Crank up the wire speed, and she'd just purr. Settings are not the same on any machine, but 35 on the Hobart is fast for .030 wire. No messing around looking at a puddle all day long.......burn and churn. By the time I get to finish welding, I'm usually fed up, bored, and just want to get done. Wire can allow you to run as fast as you're able(to a point).
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Originally Posted by farmersammm
I'm committed to getting it fixed now, just waiting for approval.
Reply:I think that the welds pictured don’t match with the settings, and I’m absolutely not calling you a liar. I think something is mixed up- I would expect .030 to run at about 5-6 on the voltage and about 70-80 on the wire.
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Originally Posted by Oxford1
I think that the welds pictured don’t match with the settings, and I’m absolutely not calling you a liar. I think something is mixed up- I would expect .030 to run at about 5-6 on the voltage and about 70-80 on the wire.
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Originally Posted by farmersammm
I purchased the new welder in 2017. It ran like a dream.Sometime in 2019 IIRC, I was welding on a bale wrapper, and grounded the contact tip. Being mostly a stick guy, I didn't release the trigger (it never occurred to me) and did what I do when a rod sticks..........yanked it off the steel(if it's really stuck, I get the stinger off the rod). This took a bit of time because the tip was stuck pretty good. It was shorted for a few seconds.The welder wouldn't run for crap after this. Looked at the gun, and the braided copper in the liner was burned where it enters the gun. Replaced the gun/liner assembly, and continued using the welder. It's never run great since.I've been meaning to take the damn thing to the shop to see what's going on, but as usual, I never get around to it........................and wind up having to use it.Hobart tech support guy said it might be the rectifiers. Something about looking at them to see if they're burned/open. I can't recall if I ever did it, or did it, and saw nothing amiss(shrug).This is why I hate these wire welders, always have,, always will.
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Originally Posted by Munkul
Your hatred of wire welders is totally irrational,,,,,,,,,,,Give the dog a bad name and hang it...Wire welders are complicated... there's an awful lot going on in a MIG/MAG/FCAW arc. Constant voltage,stickout, inductance, wire speed, and if anything is slightly not right, they run like crap. Simple as. It's all about maintenance!
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Originally Posted by SweetMK
On one hand, you say,,, "Your hatred of wire welders is totally irrational,"But, then you say ,, "and if anything is slightly not right, they run like crap."
Reply:Have to say, I'm in the "stick it " camp. It's just so much more relaxing. Grab a rod and a beer... relax.... Zen out and dream of life in a simpler time... I keep the MIG set up for sheet metal and it tends to gather a lot of dust.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Well I am gonna go with Munkal on this Mig on this simplicity everyone agrees it is the easiest because it is mist common I have been doing this since the age 18 I am now 67 when I am in a shop mig is the best it is clean less smoke to breath less clean up and most of the time less distortion . I hear very few people on here rate Mig very high I will say it again procedure and joint design like Munkal said productiveity outweighs some of the complication I might be old but I was also mig is wire and gasFarmersamm appears to be using inner shield or fluxcore while I have little or no experience with dual shield , inner shield is very forgiving set the voltage and wire speed and go to work Now I do believe taking a small wire feeder and putting it on a extension cord and trying to make it work doesn’t work wire feeders need to make sure that your input is high enough to maintain proper output the longer the cord more voltage drop etc As you all get older you will find out that breathing all that smoke isn’t all it is bragged up to be. Inner shield is very productive in the field but it takes a good machine to run it it is easy to get right up to duty cycle limits with inner shield because you have higher voltage amperage and you don’t have to stop very often This is all my 2cents worth but mig is a very productive solution to DIY people
Reply:Leogl, you aren't old. You're still a kid. The worst is yet to come.
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Originally Posted by hvw
Leogl, you aren't old. You're still a kid. The worst is yet to come.
Reply:I knocked the slag off of the welds today. I was sort of surprised, and sort of upset.
Meh.............
Clearly some issues.I called the repair dood over in Tulsa. "If it's running, there's probably nothing wrong with it". Ok.............Now it's time to look in the mirror. DO I STILL KNOW HOW TO RUN THIS DAMN THING????? You can be like the dood that misses a 3 foot putt, then looks at his putter as if it's the culprit.............or you can get off your butt, and see what's actually wrong in your own wheelhouse.
I shtcanned the day, and ran some wire..........lot of wire. I forgot that I have to look at the puddle from behind the arc to see the profile. I've had to do this for years, now that I remember.Turned the hood down to shade #10. I've always welded at shade #11. Well Hell.................I'm friggin' blind as a bat these days. Makes sense to use a lower shade value.
I don't concentrate like I used to. Why, I dunno, but it is what it is. I have to force myself to be the puddle these days. Travel isn't as regular as it used to be......you can see it in the ripples.But, after a bit of messing around,,,,,,,forgetting anything else. Things are cool. It ain't the machine...........IT'S ME.One thing though....................... Did a lot of padding today, and the machine did run different as the padding progressed. The initial fillet ran fine.........no arc outages, no popping, etc......... As the next bead was piled on top of the previous bead, the machine started acting up. You could see the stickout change as the weld progressed...........not by me, but by the machine.......it was a pulsing change in length. My tip to workpiece didn't change, but the wire length beyond the tip changed as the weld progressed...........and there were arc outages. I'm thinking that the material thickness changed as the padding progressed. The material was getting thicker with every pass. It might have required more voltage as I went along............dunno. You'd think that the metal was getting hotter with each pass, and shouldn't need additional voltage, or amperage. This is why I really hate wire machines. Do this sorta thing with stick, and you can pile metal all day long without any need to change parameters.But anyways.............I ain't the guy I used to be. It's a bit of a let down, but it is what it is. Everything has to be done very deliberately nowdays, or it doesn't work. K'kins talked about it last night. "You're not doing this much anymore, so don't expect to be good at it" Bit harsh, but I guess she's right.Now, let's get to the other thing............................... E71T-11 is a pure solid btch to run, always was, still is. It is really sensitive in the lower ranges on thinner material. Runs fine in the .035 variety on 11ga, and up. Get down to 16, and 14ga.......and it's touchy. To make it look like 7018 is tough when dealing with thin material. You're constantly on the edge of burn through, but it's doable. Hell..........I did it for years. It just plain sucks that I don't have the knack so much anymore. Today was a good day. I'm getting the feel for it again.I still think the welder runs a bit odd, but I'm not gonna stress over it. Take it in, and have them look at it when I'm done with this crap. I still have another working chute to do.
Reply:I don't see what the problem is. The beads look fine... a small bit of porosity maybe, but you'll get that on thin stuff if you're almost burning through.Sure it's not x-ray, but it's t-11 wire, it's never going to be xray (IMHO, I don't have a high opinion of T-8/GS wire to start with)The cows won't mind
Murphy's Golden Rule: Whoever has the gold, makes the rules.
Reply:Got Clamps????
Tacked the sub assembly, then dry fitted it to make sure it was right.
Plop the larger part on the Uranus FabRail 39g, and glue it together.
About the only time the machine won't stutter is when going uphill, otherwise still suffering arc outages as the weld progresses. |
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发表于 2022-5-19 11:02:29