The Mother of All Hub Pullers

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I have this big honkin' hub I have to pull, so that I can replace a shaft seal.

  Everything is fixtured to keep it straight, and square.

  Then the spacers are welded in.  Channel is very strong as long as it's blocked.  The spacers serve this purpose, as well as spacing the channel for the pulling fingers.Next, I need a pocket to hold the jack centered with the channel.  I figured it had to be a pocket that would hold the jack from wandering while we are assembling the puller.  This thing will probably take two people to set up.  Anything that makes it easier, plus centering the force, helps.

  The rotary table is first centered with a coaxial indicator, then I use the quickie method to center the chuck on the rotary table.  I find it really works well.  Use a piece of HSS CUTTING TOOL STOCK, drill rod isn't accurately ground.  HSS blanks are within a few thousands of being dead nutz.  Pop the blank in a collet, then tighten the chuck jaws on the blank..........this pulls the chuck into center.

The pocket is then welded to the T bar.

  Jack fits nicely,, and can't wander while you're messing around trying to get it all together.
Reply:Next, I need something for the base of the jack to sit on, and press against the shaft.

  One end is turned to a 60* point that will fit in the center hole drilled in the end of the shaft when it was originally machined.  This will keep the rod from wandering, and possibly damaging the threads on the shaft.  I imagine the shaft is probably in the 3 figures, cost wise.

  The other end is threaded to fit into a nut on the bottom of the jacking plate.  First......it's about the best way to make sure the rod is square with the jacking plate, and allows for other types of rods to be attached if necessary for other jobs.  ALSO..........because the rod is mild steel, I made it removable so  that the the tip can be repaired after it's damaged when pulling the hub off.  Tool steel would have been better, but it's too expensive of a process for what we're doing.

  The jacking plate will be under the jack.  The reason the rod is so long, is that I anticipate having to heat the hub to remove it.  I don't want the heat too close to the jack.  It's unwieldy, but it is what it is.I'm hoping the tip will hold up for at least one pulling job.  If it looks like it's way too soft, I guess I'll be looking for some Fatigue Proof to do it over.Last edited by farmersammm; 07-23-2021 at 03:40 AM.Reason: spelling
Reply:I would have preferred using a cup that fit over the threaded end of the shaft with the nut still on the shaft to "rethread" it if the threads got bunged up, but the nut is big enough to cover the area that might have to be heated...........so I can't leave the nut on the shaft.  This leaves me with using the pointy thingy.
Reply:I haven't seen the hub/shaft but did you consider a larger diameter pin(pointy thingy) with a flat end just under the unthreaded diameter of the shaft with only a centered point to locate it? It would distribute the pressure over the end of the shaft as opposed to what you have which may or may not be inclined to swag the shaft.Last edited by Meltedmetal; 07-23-2021 at 09:10 AM.---Meltedmetal
Reply:

Originally Posted by Meltedmetal

I haven't seen the hub/shaft but did you consider a larger diameter pin(pointy thingy) with a flat end just under the unthreaded diameter of the shaft with only a centered point to locate it? It would distribute the pressure over the end of the shaft as opposed to what you have which may or may not be incline to swag the shaft.
Reply:That point is going to work just like a log splitter. A flat disc with a threaded hole for a pointed setscrew would be best.
Reply:One other warning... If that hub is on a tapered shaft and you have to remove the nut to pull it. Restrain everything! More than once I've seen guys that were narrowly missed by puller parts and hubs skittering across the shop floor when the hub popped loose. Backing the nut off 2 turns was all it took to prevent that.
Reply:Welcome back Sam...good to see you workin in the shop doin what you do...I hope all is well with you and you are feeling better
Reply:

  I figured it would be a good idea to follow y'all's advice on this one..........I hope it wasn't a mistake

  I changed the point to a removable cup that fits the shaft diameter, and centers the force.  Inside the cup is a few layers of commercial nylon yard sign material.  The same stuff I used on the puller I built for the lathe bearing rebuild.  It takes a huge amount of force to cut through it, or distort it.  It ought to protect the threads if the puller is used COLD.  If I have to heat the hub, Then I'll put an insert in the cup that has a raised platform that contacts the center of the shaft, and keeps force off of the thread.  A guy could also use a washer that's smaller than the shaft diameter.I gotta say.........my original design was pretty common in the puller world.  I only have a few, of literally a dozen, that aren't just a simple cone that fits the center hole on the shaft.



  One of the few that's made like a transfer punch.But................the more I got to thinking about it...............Just about all 2 jaw pullers are extremely unstable.  They tend to lean to one side, or the other, when you apply force.  It's a centering problem.  It's hard to center on a point.  So............I'm happy with the change you guys suggested.  It ought to be fairly stable.  This is gonna be important..............this is one heck of a lot of iron to be messing with........setting it up, and controlling the force, etc...........  I need all that I can get in my favor.And, I will guarantee ya..................it won't work.  It will just be a source of force to keep strain on the parts while they're being heated.  I NEVER USE A PULLER WITHOUT HEAT UNLESS IT'S A SMALL PART.  I've seen more parts damaged, or pullers ruined, by just trying to do the job with the puller alone.  This is a seal replacement job, so I don't care if I ruin the seal with heat.........it's already bad.  Heat is a great thing, but you gotta be real careful with it.I've always accepted the fact that you can overheat, and ruin, some metals.  But, if it's broke, it ain't gonna get any broker I always figure

Have to put some holes in some plate for the "fingers", and it's a done deal.  Rain's rollin' in, so it's on for tomorrow I guess.  Either gonna be a good day, or a real disappointment.I did look at a factory video of how to get these things apart, and it was just as slick as the video produced by the hydraulic cylinder manufacturer that made the cylinders I had to make the brake rotor slide hammer for.  All of this crap works when something is brand new..............but not when it's 20yrs old, and rusted to  fare thee well.
Reply:If you guys remember the thingy I had to make to get my loader cylinders apart..................this was the video put out by the manufacturer.  GIMME A BREAK


It all works on stuff that just came off the production line.
Reply:One word of advice Sam, tie the ends of the channel together to prevent any twisting or spreading. It will suck if the rod pulls through between them under a heavy load. A bolt in spacer would work if you need the end open.
Reply:

Originally Posted by 12V71

One word of advice Sam, tie the ends of the channel together to prevent any twisting or spreading. It will suck if the rod pulls through between them under a heavy load. A bolt in spacer would work if you need the end open.
Reply:Now I see what you have... Guess what Sam, I've pulled about 30 of them over the years for the local orchards. Bush Hog, Woods, Rhino... But do it your way.
Reply:

Originally Posted by 12V71

Now I see what you have... Guess what Sam, I've pulled about 30 of them over the years for the local orchards. Bush Hog, Woods, Rhino... But do it your way.
Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

So..........how did you do it......or is it a secret closely guarded by the Soviet Council?
Reply:

Originally Posted by 12V71

Two methods, a shaft and pounder, or a bar puller across the blade pin holes for the stubborn ones, My puller was 2 pieces of 1"x3" spaced with 1.5" square stock like what you are building, I used a 1.25 fine thread screw with a nut welded to the top and a nut and a couple of washers under the crossbar. I used 2 pieces of 1" threaded rod with big washers to grab the pin holes. Grease the screw and washers well, hold the screw and turn the nut with a 30" wrench till tight... smack the screw with a 10-12 lb sledge and usually they popped right off. never any heat but leave the nut on using a puller, those taper splines pop with some real force.I have a 24' Woods in the Yard right now waiting on a new pan for the center section.
Reply:And, for y'all Californicators

, that's green grass, with mud underneath.  How the tables turn.  We didn't get a mention on the nightly news when we had wildfires tear this state to bits back in 2011/2012, but the coastal types get front page coverage when it gets a little dry (shrug).  Life has always been hard in Oklahoma, we just don't cry about it.Which ain't sayin' I don't feel bad.  I almost watched my house burn down during our fire season..............and we're looking forward to a very bad Winter fire season here.......but that's just normal for Oklahoma.  I pray for those affected, but I don't want to hear about how bad it is compared to the rest of us.  You gotta remember..........this is the heart of the Dust Bowl.  We paid our dues.
Reply:Chances are, if we weren't so much alike, we might get along
Reply:Didn't need any tools to remove the stump jumper from my Brush Hog brand shredder.I lowered it down over some sort of large bush (which I've done several times) when all of a sudden a large dust cloud came up.Raised it up, and there on top of a large flat limestone rock that I never saw were the blades and stump jumper.The rotation of the blades was such that it unscrewed the nut and lock washer. Got lucky and found the nut and lock washer to the side of the rock.Took all the pieces back to my place, put it back together, then back to work.Last edited by In Utopia; 07-27-2021 at 01:23 PM.
Reply:I didn't know this thread started over a mower. Here's the one I knocked apart last Friday. The heavy cross peice was bent upward and causing the blades to hit the top deck. To get it into the press I cut the pan loose, the pan had a serious cone too. Pressed it all straight and welded it back together with Lincoln 71M.  Ran it at full speed this afternoon with no vibration.