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So I received this badboy Friday.
The good:Incredible value for the money - 38 CFM, only $2500 shipped to my door, and runs on single phaseIncludes the "Whisper" silencer box, which houses the two intake filters and loose sound damping materialThe bad:Comes with a few compromises being a "lower end" 10HP compressor (most are $3500+ and 3-phase), namely:The belts are very short and thus the motor capacitor box touches the compressor at one point, and the belts are already at tension.Thus there is no adjustability for belt tension and the belts must be rolled on/off. (would have been better if the belts were about 2-3" longer to separate the motor/compressor touching point)
Disassembled in the garage (had to, to transport it to the backyard)
I'm hoping to have it all working very soon.
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Reply:Lot of CFM for the money. Looks like there is room for the motor to move away if the belts were longer. That would bother me, no reason for it.Ernie F.
Reply:
Originally Posted by metalman21
Lot of CFM for the money. Looks like there is room for the motor to move away if the belts were longer. That would bother me, no reason for it.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
Yes absolutely. I'm going to send those pictures to Eaton to see if they can send me longer belts.
Reply:
Originally Posted by henry42
They probably put those short belts on because they know that new belts stretch and wanted to give maximum adjustability.
Reply:I like that silencer box. I will have to steal that idea.
Reply:
Originally Posted by arcflash
I like that silencer box. I will have to steal that idea.
Reply:We had bought a Eaton 15 hp several years ago. Replaced 1 under warranty second one shook it’s self apart. The cheap import compressor pumps just wouldn’t hold up. Hopefully you have better luck then we didMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:It looks like the filter material we use on our makeup air. It comes in a four foot wide roll. Just happen to have a box.
Reply:
Originally Posted by farmshop
We had bought a Eaton 15 hp several years ago. Replaced 1 under warranty second one shook it’s self apart. The cheap import compressor pumps just wouldn’t hold up. Hopefully you have better luck then we did
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
So I received this badboy Friday.
The good:Incredible value for the money - 38 CFM, only $2500 shipped to my door, and runs on single phaseIncludes the "Whisper" silencer box, which houses the two intake filters and loose sound damping materialThe bad:Comes with a few compromises being a "lower end" 10HP compressor (most are $3500+ and 3-phase), namely:The belts are very short and thus the motor capacitor box touches the compressor at one point, and the belts are already at tension.Thus there is no adjustability for belt tension and the belts must be rolled on/off. (would have been better if the belts were about 2-3" longer to separate the motor/compressor touching point)
Disassembled in the garage (had to, to transport it to the backyard)
I'm hoping to have it all working very soon.
Reply:Congrats on the new compressor, it's looking good. Even my new IR with the flashy red, white and blue "assembled in the USA" decal has "Made in China" cast into it's compressor pump. Seems to be getting hard to avoid these days.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:
Originally Posted by srp
Eaton's warranty is awesome. Call Todd, he will send you some longer belts.
Reply:Just consider the pump as a maintenance Item. Those pumps are really dirt cheap $$ compared any old school quality USA build pump..Like one of these you would never wear out..
https://www.ebay.com/p/BRAND-Eaton-1...hm=1000&chn=pshttp://www.saylor-beall.com/pumps/Last edited by Brand X; 01-01-2019 at 03:15 AM.Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200/ Lincoln feedersThermal 95sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered Thermal Drag-gun 35CThermal 15cINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:What makes Eaton a good compressor is the warranty, they have a 5 year bumper to bumper warranty. They don't pass the buck when the motor, mag starter or pressure switch goes out and has no more factory warranty, they warranty every part of the compressor for 5 years. At this point I would buy another Eaton / Polar Air compressor.Syncrowave 250 Tig RunnerDynasty 210DX Tig RunnerMiller MM211Everlast 250EXEverlast Plasma 70
Reply:For those of you that use/used Eaton compressors, did you use their recommended Airbase oil, or some other oil?
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Reply:Thats a nice looking compressor. I am looking at their 5HP 60 gallon unit.Tom
Reply:Will you do a CFM test when you get the compressor back together? If so can you post it? I'm looking at that same compressor. Be interested in the full fill CFM, cut in/cut out CFM and amperage draw when the compressor shuts off. ThanksSyncrowave 250 Tig RunnerDynasty 210DX Tig RunnerMiller MM211Everlast 250EXEverlast Plasma 70
Reply:
Originally Posted by srp
Will you do a CFM test when you get the compressor back together? If so can you post it? I'm looking at that same compressor. Be interested in the full fill CFM, cut in/cut out CFM and amperage draw when the compressor shuts off. Thanks
Reply:Just measure the fill time from 0psi to cut out. You know the tank size already so with a little math you can have an average CFM.Yeah, I know, I wouldn't do it either!
Reply:
Originally Posted by rexcormack
Just measure the fill time from 0psi to cut out. You know the tank size already so with a little math you can have an average CFM.Yeah, I know, I wouldn't do it either!
Reply:Wish I had a CFM apparatus, the problem would be getting all the right adapters. Some of my compressors have 1/2 inch copper lines and others have a 3/4 copper line, some have compression fittings and others have JIC/AN fittings. One has a metal hose with pipe threads on each end with a union. I just use the hokey pokey formula I got from the internet, It works good enough to compare my compressors to each other and to see if a new compressor's performance matches the performance specs. Putting the formula on a Excel spreadsheet makes it easy to compare the performance, I do have a nice digital pressure gauge so my pressures are close and consistent. I always re-sheave all my compressors after I know the amperage draw when the compressor shuts off, I bump up the rpm just a little for more CFM if the motor has a 1.15 or 1.25 serv. factor, I always leave a little reserve though and not max out the motor.Last edited by srp; 01-12-2019 at 01:42 AM.Syncrowave 250 Tig RunnerDynasty 210DX Tig RunnerMiller MM211Everlast 250EXEverlast Plasma 70
Reply:
Originally Posted by srp
Wish I had a CFM apparatus, the problem would be getting all the right adapters. Some of my compressors have 1/2 inch copper lines and others have a 3/4 copper line, some have compression fittings and others have JIC/AN fittings. One has a metal hose with pipe threads on each end with a union. I just use the hokey pokey formula I got from the internet, It works good enough to compare my compressors to each other and to see if a new compressor's performance matches the performance specs. Putting the formula on a Excel spreadsheet makes it easy to compare the performance, I do have a nice digital pressure gauge so my pressures are close and consistent. I always re-sheave all my compressors after I know the amperage draw when the compressor shuts off, I bump up the rpm just a little for more CFM if the motor has a 1.15 or 1.25 serv. factor, I always leave a little reserve though and not max out the motor.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
No need to, Megan the piston compressor sales rep that handled my order got my email and already has two larger belts on their way to me.
Reply:Now I'm wondering if I lost a part. This T has one inlet/outlet unrouted anywhere. It joins the tops of the cylinder heads together (I think). Anyone know if this is supposed to go anywhere? I didn't take a pic of this part when I got it, LOL. Everything else is already routed or already capped. Yea I know, I need to call Eaton Compressor in the morning, just thought I'd ask.
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Doesn't the picture in post #24 show it hooked up?Also the second picture in post #1.
Reply:Nah, those are the 3/8 lines that are hooked up. The ones I'm wondering are 1/4 lines. Havent had a chance to call them, but I'll find out soon enough.
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Reply:1/4 inch "usually" goes to the unloader valve on the pressure switch. Usually!
Reply:
Originally Posted by rexcormack
1/4 inch "usually" goes to the unloader valve on the pressure switch. Usually!
Reply:I'm surprised they would waste the money on the tubing and fittings if they are not hooked to anything!Just gives the mud dobbers a new home!
Reply:I know, its kinda odd since my unit didn't come with a pilot relief valve, which is what those small 1/4" lines would be for. Yea, I hate mud dobbers!
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Reply:She's alive!
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Reply:What's the factory pressure setting? Mine came adjusted to 170psi...
..first thing I did was knock it down to 150psi.
Reply:Can't really tell how loud yours is in the video. Mine's ridiculous inside the container, like being in a tin can with gravel rolling around in it.
Reply:Mine was set to 170psi as well. It sounds louder in the video than in real life. Cell phone microphones are probably designed to enhance midrange frequencies of the human voice after all.
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Reply:So...
.if, let's say I butt dial K'kins, and happen to fart at the same time...
...she stands the possibility of losing her hearing when she answers the phone?
This mid range enhancement thing is dangerous
Reply:lol, if you say so. Start-up amperage is roughly 83A peak when it kicks own.
Drops down to high 20's, and then climbs up as the tank is getting filled. Just before it shuts off, it's just a hair under 40A.
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Reply:Mine has a Baldor 5hp on it, not sure what the amperage is for startup, but it will dim the lights a bit when other heavy draw stuff is running.I'm powering it with a 10ga 80' drop cord. The nice heavy black rubber, all season kind....stays flexible in the cold.It's an old place, relatively, and we only have 100amp service. I run the entire shop on a drop leg directly below the meter. Two 220v outlets (50, and 30amps), One 220v 20amp, and 4 110v 15amp. Power company is ok with it, long as it's below the meter, and fully grounded. We don't have code requirements out in the county here, only in towns. Would cost a small fortune to wire all that up, I'm only out the cost of the boxes etc.
Reply:That pipe plug hitting would take 5 minutes to fix by merrily swapping out that plug for one that doesn't stick up with the square on it. They have them that are flush and need a allen wrench to tighten.Or just take off half of that square on it.Or 5 second with flap disc and knock that corner off it in place. Well at least while the compressor was off it.Last edited by danielplace; 07-14-2019 at 10:46 PM.
Reply:
Originally Posted by danielplace
That pipe plug hitting would take 5 minutes to fix by merrily swapping out that plug for one that doesn't stick up with the square on it. They have them that are flush and need a allen wrench to tighten.Or just take off half of that square on it.Or 5 second with flap disc and knock that corner off it in place. Well at least while the compressor was off it.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
Not sure what you mean by that, but its all working fine now. Tons of airflow.
Reply:
Originally Posted by danielplace
I mean the pipe plug was the only thing hitting the electric box. The plug stuck out 1/4" further than the compressor. Change one $2 pipe plug and it doesn't hit anymore. Looked like it was only that big square headed plug that was hitting because it sticks out further than anything. Simple fix swap the pipe plug for a flush one.Little late I guess, glad it is fixed now.Take a good look at the picture,. Don't think it left the factory like that but rather the motor base stand got bent in shipping. The motor and cap box should be facing straight up but your entire motor is cocked over leaning toward the compressor.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
Oh ok, I see what you mean; I didnt't get that you were referencing the pipe plug at first. Eaton confirmed there was some sort of "shortage" of belts and the assembly tech's ended up putting on shorter belts to have the unit shipped out. They shipped me longer belts, one of which was already stretched, so it was un-useable with the new longer belt, so that's why I just ordered two brand new ones from Amazon for $20. Pic #6 in the first post shows there were a couple spots that the pump was touching, so it wasn't just that pipe plug. If anything looks crooked, it's probably because of the picture and the fact that I wasn't standing dead on center looking at the motor. It's base is fine and it actually sits directly upright the way it should. It was just the shortage of belts.
Reply:10 hp? single phase? nope. your a shop teacher right? teach the kids something useful like how numbers are inflated on equipment like air compressors. and that 38 cfm may be possible from 10hp but not from that compressor. its simple math.if they lie to you upfront, what do you expect?General Contractor Commercial Industrial & Custom ResidentialSpecializing in all things Metal
Reply:
Originally Posted by tracymobilecnc
10 hp? single phase? nope. your a shop teacher right? teach the kids something useful like how numbers are inflated on equipment like air compressors. and that 38 cfm may be possible from 10hp but not from that compressor. its simple math.if they lie to you upfront, what do you expect?
Reply:That's for the constant-run mode. It allows you to allow you to run the motor without stopping and the pump compresses air and then freewheels.If you didn't have this option the the heads where this copper comes from should have been plugged. Stuff can get in there and ruin the disc valves.I've got a Curtis pump that I cobbled up. I have a small tank, so wanted to have this option. I removed the head plugs and plumbed with those tees to a pilot valve. The pilot valve has a knob so you can run it as run-stop via pressure switch or constant-run via pilot valve.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Strutaeng
That's for the constant-run mode. It allows you to allow you to run the motor without stopping and the pump compresses air and then freewheels.If you didn't have this option the the heads where this copper comes from should have been plugged. Stuff can get in there and ruin the disc valves.I've got a Curtis pump that I cobbled up. I have a small tank, so wanted to have this option. I removed the head plugs and plumbed with those tees to a pilot valve. The pilot valve has a knob so you can run it as run-stop via pressure switch or constant-run via pilot valve.
Reply:Nice compressor Oscar! A friend bought their 5hp version a couple of years ago nice and quiet as far as new air compressors go. I like their air intake silencer, might have to rig something like that for my 1966 Kellogg. Looks like you won't have a shortage of air.
PeteESAB SVI300ESAB MIG 4 HDMILLER PASSPORT 180MILLER DYNASTY 300DXMILLER COOLMATE 4MILLER 30AMILLER SPECTRUM 2050C&K WF-3PrimeWeld Tig 225X
Reply:Thanks. It used only on the weekends so it should last a good long while.
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Reply:That's a lot of breeze. It will run close to that cfm, 10 hp is 2x what a man needs for most work and can make sandblast fast if it's set up to take advantage of it. I agree with it lasting a long while. Weekend and hobby use takes a good long time to put 100 hours on. Recovery will be short on air tools. It makes near 2x the avg da sander uses, there will never be a delay. My bud has a shop, 2 or 3 guys, he got 10 and it's plenty even heavy air gun, truck tires etc.Last edited by Sberry; 11-13-2019 at 08:34 PM.www.urkafarms.com |
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发表于 2021-12-15 15:51:21