Can you weld Galvanized safely?

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OK, so a bit of background.  I want to put up a tower to run a wind generator.  I ended up with a used store display that has a lot of 3/4" and 1" pipe that closely resembles conduit.  I would be butt welding the larger tubing, flattening the ends of the 3/4" and using it for cross bracing.  I've been doing some reading and it looks like the advice is to wear a proper respirator or air supply (not simply compressed air from your shop) and to work in a well ventilated area.  Keep out of the plume.  No problem. I can actually work outside.One article said to use only flux core wire in the MIG and to reverse polarity to the stinger.  One other article didn't even mention that.  I do have a spool of stainless wire here, CO2 and Argon.  If this project is ill-advised, I simply won't do it but if it can be done safely, I'm willing to give it a try.  Lee Valley tools makes a low profile respirator and that looks like a good choice though they don't seem to classify it as I would expect to see here.  It's made in England.  They say NIOSH P100.  I am used to seeing Organic Vapour or Chemical.  Yer thoughts?
Reply:It's nasty.... I've welded quite a bit of galvanized with Flux core outside.  Definitely wear breathing protection and don't have your head right by the weldSent from my SM-A426U using Tapatalk
Reply:You certainly can weld galvanised steel safely with the right precautions, The best option is a positive air pressure respirator (PAPR) that have a sealed helmet fed with air that is drawn through a filter such as 3M's speedglas adlfo with the gas filter, (many other brands have equivalent), but that is pretty spendy, next best option that is just as effective is used correctly is a quality reusable rubber formed respirator like a 3M™ Welding Respirator (again many other brand with equivalent quality, I'm just familiar with the 3m stuff as that's what I use), as long as you are clean shaven so it seems around your face properly and use the the correct filter canisters then your golden for gal, even if you were to be in a confined space and unable to get away from the fumes, a quality respirator is less than $100 and well worth the investment, use it for stainless stick and MIG as well to protect against hexavalent chrome, I don't recommend using the old "keep your head out of the fumes, ventilate, weld it outside" you only get zinc poisoning from welding gal once before your happy to spend the $100 on the respirator and kicking yourself for not doing that first, it sucks big time.As for welding itself, there's no need to bother with stainless wire, But I don't recommend solid wire MIG at all, if you do have a MIG setup then go with some .045 E71T-11 self shield flux core (lincoln NR211 MP/NR212, Hobart fabshield 21b, ESAB coreshield 11, Hyundai/talweld supershield 11) and run it ELECTRODE NEGATIVE, if you don't have a MIG then second best option is 6010 or 6011 stick if your stick machine won't run 6010.This is welded with .045 ESAB coreshield 11 self shield flux core, welding galvanised unistrut to 300micron industrial 2 pac painted steel without cleaning off either the paint or the gal before welding, just hit with a wire wheel after welding, the self shield id the perfect fit for welding galvanised without having to clean the joints while still getting good welds.

Last edited by ttoks; 15 Hours Ago at 12:49 PM.
Reply:Thanks to both of you especially ttoks for the great rundown.  I feel a lot better about tackling this now.
Reply:Guess I should have asked how to swap the polarity on my stinger.  Is that pretty straightforward?
Reply:Normally just follow your work clap into the machine. You'll see 2 posts. Swap them. Unplug machine firstSent from my SM-A426U using Tapatalk
Reply:

Originally Posted by Stop Gap

Guess I should have asked how to swap the polarity on my stinger.  Is that pretty straightforward?
Reply:Turn machine off first!?!?  Isn't that for suckers?  Anyway what's the alternative then.  Run it with positive polarity?  I think my stick welder is a bit hot for this thin walled stuff.  I turned it down to it's lowest setting the other day just to practice on an old breaker panel and it blew holes all over it.
Reply:I work outside with wind to my back and using a mask.E6011 or E71T-GS is bestIf light gauge E6013 or E71T-GS works great.Dave

Originally Posted by Stop Gap

OK, so a bit of background.  I want to put up a tower to run a wind generator.  I ended up with a used store display that has a lot of 3/4" and 1" pipe that closely resembles conduit.  I would be butt welding the larger tubing, flattening the ends of the 3/4" and using it for cross bracing.  I've been doing some reading and it looks like the advice is to wear a proper respirator or air supply (not simply compressed air from your shop) and to work in a well ventilated area.  Keep out of the plume.  No problem. I can actually work outside.One article said to use only flux core wire in the MIG and to reverse polarity to the stinger.  One other article didn't even mention that.  I do have a spool of stainless wire here, CO2 and Argon.  If this project is ill-advised, I simply won't do it but if it can be done safely, I'm willing to give it a try.  Lee Valley tools makes a low profile respirator and that looks like a good choice though they don't seem to classify it as I would expect to see here.  It's made in England.  They say NIOSH P100.  I am used to seeing Organic Vapour or Chemical.  Yer thoughts?
Reply:Thanks for that Ed.  I read the old post.