MIG Weld Transfer Case

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I apologize for all my posts, I'm a bit too enthusiastic with this new found welding hobby. Has anyone here tried to repair a crack on a transfer case? I have a hairline crack on my transfer case from doing a Hulk tightening job on the drain plug. Actually, didn't think I tightened it that hard but heard a pop and fluid started to leak. I patched the crack with JB Weld a few months ago after draining the brand new fluid and it seems to be doing the job so far. I was wondering if it's feasible to remove the rear t-case cover and try to permanently fix the hairline crack with MIG. I've read it would be really hard because of the soaked in t-case fluid. The t-case is also magnesium I believe, tried to verify this but finding information on the type of metal has been difficult. I'm also a total welding noob so that would add on to the complexity.
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Originally Posted by Ambull01

I apologize for all my posts, I'm a bit too enthusiastic with this new found welding hobby. Has anyone here tried to repair a crack on a transfer case? I have a hairline crack on my transfer case from doing a Hulk tightening job on the drain plug. Actually, didn't think I tightened it that hard but heard a pop and fluid started to leak. I patched the crack with JB Weld a few months ago after draining the brand new fluid and it seems to be doing the job so far. I was wondering if it's feasible to remove the rear t-case cover and try to permanently fix the hairline crack with MIG. I've read it would be really hard because of the soaked in t-case fluid. The t-case is also magnesium I believe, tried to verify this but finding information on the type of metal has been difficult. I'm also a total welding noob so that would add on to the complexity.
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Originally Posted by Willie B

You haven't said what the machine is. Most transfer cases I've seen are aluminum. There is no way I'd try to weld with MIG. This is a TIG job, or repair some other way.Cast needs the contamination cooked out to get filler to stick, no good way to do that with MIG.
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Originally Posted by Ambull01

I patched the crack with JB Weld a few months ago after draining the brand new fluid and it seems to be doing the job so far.
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Originally Posted by Kelvin

That's all I would need to know...if it ain't fixed, don't break it!I've seen epoxy used to seal cracks in the water jacket of marine V8 engines -- with raw-water (seawater) cooling -- last for years and years.
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Originally Posted by Ambull01

Yeah you're right lol. I also like to mess with wrenches/tools and love to work on my own vehicles so was thinking about welding it. Sounds like too much work though. If the JB Weld lasts that would be awesome, cheap and easy fix/patch. While trying to find ID info on the t-case I noticed some flaky rust on the frame. I recently wire wheeled the underside of the truck to remove loose rust and sprayed it with Rust Oleum paint then undercarriage paint. Can't believe I missed that part. I pressed on it and I think I could push all the way through! Good thing it's the inner side and looks to be really thin metal. So that's my next project. It's close to the gas tank though so I'll have to do a lot of research before I attempt to weld in a new metal patch.
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Originally Posted by Willie B;[URL="tel:8833838"8833838[/URL]]I'll make popcorn & put on a pot of coffee.
Reply:When you go hunting grizzly bear, don't take a willow switch. Optimism is one thing, attempting with wrong tool is another. Aluminum MIG is for clean metal only. Welding cast, you form a puddle. It might not form at all first try. You cook the ground face a while brushing between. Eventually, you form a small puddle. Then you expand the puddle to butter a ground face. Once all is coated, you fill between the faces. I don't believe MIG is the right tool.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
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Originally Posted by Willie B

When you go hunting grizzly bear, don't take a willow switch. Optimism is one thing, attempting with wrong tool is another. Aluminum MIG is for clean metal only. Welding cast, you form a puddle. It might not form at all first try. You cook the ground face a while brushing between. Eventually, you form a small puddle. Then you expand the puddle to butter a ground face. Once all is coated, you fill between the faces. I don't believe MIG is the right tool.
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Originally Posted by Willie B

When you go hunting grizzly bear, don't take a willow switch. Optimism is one thing, attempting with wrong tool is another. Aluminum MIG is for clean metal only. Welding cast, you form a puddle. It might not form at all first try. You cook the ground face a while brushing between. Eventually, you form a small puddle. Then you expand the puddle to butter a ground face. Once all is coated, you fill between the faces. I don't believe MIG is the right tool.
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Originally Posted by Ambull01

While trying to find ID info on the t-case I noticed some flaky rust on the frame. I recently wire wheeled the underside of the truck to remove loose rust and sprayed it with Rust Oleum paint then undercarriage paint. Can't believe I missed that part. I pressed on it and I think I could push all the way through! Good thing it's the inner side and looks to be really thin metal. So that's my next project. It's close to the gas tank though so I'll have to do a lot of research before I attempt to weld in a new metal patch.
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Originally Posted by FlyFishn

Bold added. I'll join in on throwing some pop corn on. On a more serious note - welding near the gas tank is pretty dangerous - especially if there are any hoses and fittings close. I would not recommend welding near a gas tank at all. That sounds like a Darwin Award waiting to be achieved. That said, protecting the area you are welding from splatter getting very far is always a good idea. Just ensure that you have adequate access to get in the position you need to for welding. That is going to take a lot of practice. Welding certifications for various processes and various POSITIONS is there for a reason - because not all "welding" is the same, not even the same base process (mig, stick, tig, etc). Where you get access to the parts to be welded and from what position you access them changes up the game significantly. In any event, good luck on everything.
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Originally Posted by Ambull01

lmao. I like that grizzly bear with a switch thing, I may use it in the future. Yeah I mentioned I'm not going to attempt welding the t-case with MIG, just going to hope the JB Weld holds. I was talking about using MIG welding to fix the rusty frame piece.
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Originally Posted by Willie B

Ah, That you might do. Look up fusion concerns with MIG, and strategy to avoid cracking in frame repairs. One absolute: You can't weld to rust. If you can't get past rusty steel, it won't work.
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Originally Posted by Ambull01

Will do. To be honest though, that may be beyond my capability. I may have to pay a real welder to do it. Maybe that will be a way to strike up a conversation about buying scrap metal from him/her.
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Originally Posted by Willie B

Never ever had a shortage of practice metal. Scrap surrounds us all day, every day. Most are too particular about what we practice on. Junk cars are everywhere, old beds are at every transfer station. My town has a metal dumpster, there is always something to cut up & put back together. Truth is you probably don't want to weld. If you are like me & everyone else, you want to build. Building whatever you hope to build requires cutting, shaping, preparing. Might as well learn it all. If thicker steel is what you want to learn, buy a bulldozer blade, backhoe bucket, heavy trailer, or even an old I beam. Cut it any way you like, prep the joint, weld.Old pipe, structural steel of any sort is cheap from a scrap dealer, or local metal dumpster, it might be free. The concept of only welding coupons prepared for you is ludicrous. Is it your intent to use your newfound skill to weld coupons?Find some rusty pickup frame pieces. cut away the rusted out, clean up what you will save on your truck. Cut a patch from another frame piece, clean it up. Set the whole assembly on sawhorses, or whatever. Crawl under, & enjoy the spatter. Once you have the mock up right, go for the real thing. Rusted truck frames are NOT for the faint of heart. I probably rebuilt 50 rusted out bodies, not once have I repaired a rusted out frame.
Reply:If your going to do frame repair, get yourself a needle scaler. Nothing better for knocking rust and scale off and it will quickly expose thin areas.
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Originally Posted by M J D

If your going to do frame repair, get yourself a needle scaler. Nothing better for knocking rust and scale off and it will quickly expose thin areas.
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Originally Posted by Ambull01

Yes sir, that looks perfect. Just looked up some videos on YT of needle scalers, I'm definitely getting one of those. Great advice on this forum.I don't know how you guys deal with this kind of rust from hard winter states, never seen **** like this. Grew up in HI and we don't see a lot of snow where I am in VA. I've been really sheltered I guess lol.
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Originally Posted by M J D

It's just the way it is here in Wisconsin. Pretty much the salt brine capital here. Pretty much from first to last snow the blacktop roads are a dirty white color.
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Originally Posted by Ambull01

How often do you have to remove rust from the undercarriage? I'm looking for an air compressor online now, you guys are great at helping people spend money.
Reply:It kills me to say this.My experience with Ford has led me to swear I will never own one again. GM frames are hydro formed. They are bent into strong shapes, using minimal volume of steel.Ford frames are less sophisticated. They are fabricated for economical manufacture. Ford frames survive Rust Belt service longer.Those of us choosing GM over Ford or Dodge get our vehicles undercoated with oil. It's easier to prevent rust than to fix it. My GM vehicles go for oil undercoating every fall.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.