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Let me preface this by saying I dont stick weld often. I can do it, i know what a good sound weld looks like but Im not being featured in any magazines
That said, i have to cut this tower up, relocate it and put it back together. Id like to use 6013 because I just know Ill make cleaner welds with it. So that said, am i taking a risk on strength using 6013 to get nicer welds or is it a non concern in the application?This tower is 6x6 3/16 wall tube. So its going have a good 24 of weld on each section. Also, this thing is a death trap as it sits welding wise and has held up for 10+ years. No idea what hack did it the first time around. Its got one weld on each piece
This is a rope training tower and is being relocated to my current firehouse where Im building the attached training center. Oh and I hope everyones doing well, havent been around much
www.FirehouseFabricators.comZachLincoln 210mpLincoln SW200Hypertherm Powermax 45xp2x4 CNC Plasma Table.
Reply:There nothing wrong with either 7018 or 6013.Most steel is A36 which is 36ksi and the welding rod is 60ksi or 70ksi.Could go in to more detail but not need for welding.Dave
Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest
Let me preface this by saying I dont stick weld often. I can do it, i know what a good sound weld looks like but Im not being featured in any magazines
That said, i have to cut this tower up, relocate it and put it back together. Id like to use 6013 because I just know Ill make cleaner welds with it. So that said, am i taking a risk on strength using 6013 to get nicer welds or is it a non concern in the application?This tower is 6x6 3/16 wall tube. So its going have a good 24 of weld on each section. Also, this thing is a death trap as it sits welding wise and has held up for 10+ years. No idea what hack did it the first time around. Its got one weld on each piece
This is a rope training tower and is being relocated to my current firehouse where Im building the attached training center. Oh and I hope everyones doing well, havent been around much
Reply:I would use 7018. Even if it wasn't the electrode I use for almost everything, I would use it there mainly because there are safety issues involved. It's much easier to produce a defect free weld deposit with 7018 than 6013. With the fairly large amount of welding required a self shielded flux core would be another good option.
Reply:What welding machine are you using? AC buzz box or a machine (transformer/buzz box/tombstone or inverter) that does DC also? If it were me, I would run Lincoln Jet-LH 78 MR-RSP rods, 7018 in a green label box. Run them DC+. With some amps behind them they run excellent and aren't hard. Of course, amps depend on rod size, 1/8" is probably what you want to use - its the most common size and would work fine for the parts you're working with. Do some test beads to dial in your heat. You can weave 7018 up to about 2-3x the rod diameter if you need a wider bead, otherwise you can run them as a simple drag rod. Weaving across your joint will allow you to focus the arc on each side of the joint so as to get better fusion if you have much of a gap. On a side note, these Jet rods are labeled as being "AC" rods. I would not run them on AC. There is another version of Lincoln's 7018 that you can get at Home Depot in the cellophane-wrapped boxes that also comes in the plastic boxes that you'll find at a more proper LWS (local welding supply) that come in a blue label package. These are Lincoln 7018-AC RSP. They are sold at places like Home Depot as I suspect that is their more common "AC version" 7018. I have never had any luck with them - I've always had porosity on starts. After the first 1/2-3/4" they can smooth out, but the initial porosity bugs the heck out of me. When I switched to the Jet's it was a night and day difference. If you are leery of them - get you a box of them (Jets - green label) to have on-hand and burn a couple to try. I bet you'll like them. As to 6013 vs 7018 - personally I don't weld anything with 6013 that I care about. The only 6013 I have around is 3/32" that I have on-hand just to use for sheet metal. However, for thinner stuff that isn't load bearing I have gravitated towards Blue Demon 5/64" 7014. I can get good bead appearance with it. 7018 is a much more structural rod. For anything being subjected to much dynamic loading - it would be the 1st rod I would go to, with the caveat that if I needed a fast-freeze root that would easily join parts together (think rusted metal, painted, etc) I would go to 6010 or 6011 first, get everything cleaned well with a wire wheel on an angle grinder, then lay some 7018. Otherwise, good clean base metal you can run straight 7018. I just stocked up on 3/16" 7018. I did a project a couple months ago and burned through most of a box of it. Actually, I stock 3/32", 1/8", and 5/32" in 6010, 6011, and 7018 as those are my go-to rods (I do have some other rods, but don't burn them). The 3/16" 7018 burns nice and will work for the vast majority of what I'll weld here - with lighter power levels. Aside from that, if I need something heavier I have enough to make a few out-of-the-blue welds, but if I was working on a project like yours I'd get a couple boxes specifically of the spec rod I was going to use on it. Just a note on the "tower" - those vertical sections are all 1-piece, once you cut the top framing off. Hopefully you can leave the feet attached and grind off/drill out the bolts. With as stout as that tubing is (6" square, 3/16" wall is pretty darn stout) - there isn't too much risk of the tubes giving way - so long as they are not rusted through anywhere. I would check that as you take it apart. The main structural challenge I can see is that assembly "racking" - where the top framing may allow it to tilt then fall like a domino set. To that exact point - that is what scares me about the single side welds that were on there before. I realize it was up for a long time, but as you reassemble it I would box those frame members off. It would make the set up more rigid. Good luck with it!Last edited by FlyFishn; 2 Days Ago at 07:23 PM.
Reply:
Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest
Reply:If you are looking for similar tensile strength but an easier rod to work with, I would suggest 7014. That being said, while 6013 may be the most hated rod on this site, I've fixed plenty of farm equipment and hog pens with it where getting clean metal was an issue.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Either 6013 or 7014 will work perfectly. Like Whitbaron when I had only an AC welder All my machinery on the farm was repaired with these two rods Although I now have an inverter welder that welds very smooth with 7018 7014 is still my favourite Rod to use
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
If you are looking for similar tensile strength but an easier rod to work with, I would suggest 7014. That being said, while 6013 may be the most hated rod on this site, I've fixed plenty of farm equipment and hog pens with it where getting clean metal was an issue.
Reply:Its not a critical weld, and its not structural in the same sense as I beams in a building. You aren't making a trailer or welding nuclear power plant piping. You aren't subjecting it to forces that require a charpy v-notch rating, etc. Use whatever process you feel comfortable with (MIG, FCAW, Stick, etc.). If you use stick, virtually any electrode is sufficient. My only caveat is if you have to cut across those vertical 6x6 legs, I would use fish plates when you stick it back together.Last edited by Louie1961; 2 Days Ago at 09:34 PM.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:7018 is the stuff. once u can run that in all pos., there isnt much u cant weld. nows ur chance to get some good practice/experience, once its over, u'll be glad u pushed urself. a couple+ of us will be dissapointed if we dont see finished pics of 7018
Reply:I agreeMost building fabricators in 1960's used E6013. I did not must use of E7018 until the late 1970's To use E7018 is a pain 😫 to use the rod correctly in needs to heat to 250°F before you start to weld hot hot hot.Dave
Originally Posted by Louie1961
Its not a critical weld, and its not structural in the same sense as I beams in a building. You aren't making a trailer or welding nuclear power plant piping. You aren't subjecting it to forces that require a charpy v-notch rating, etc. Use whatever process you feel comfortable with (MIG, FCAW, Stick, etc.). If you use stick, virtually any electrode is sufficient. My only caveat is if you have to cut across those vertical 6x6 legs, I would use fish plates when you stick it back together.
Reply:You call them a hack and say you don't stick weld, but you want to stick weld? Perhap, practice a lot before doing it or use flux core. By practice mean climb a ladder and weld over head or weld at a low level where kneeling is too high sitting is too low... Practice in position required on that project.Interesting statement about 6013 vs 7018. I was welding 6013 yesterday.I was thinking, We have addictive relationship. I like it but it eventually lets me down(pilot error or not?) it goes from beautiful to where the heck is the puddle. It is my go to rod because of low heat input for the thin material I weld. I can run 6013 consistently very well standing at my bench in my shop.Good luck
Reply:Thanks for the inputIt’s gonna be welded with a Miller multimatic 200. We have an old thunderbolt 225 here also but i don’t see myself carrying it around…www.FirehouseFabricators.comZachLincoln 210mpLincoln SW200Hypertherm Powermax 45xp2x4 CNC Plasma Table.
Reply:
Originally Posted by smithdoor
I agreeMost building fabricators in 1960's used E6013. I did not must use of E7018 until the late 1970's To use E7018 is a pain |
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发表于 2021-11-9 15:51:33