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I'm building a mechanics pit at my home shop. Got the pit itself pretty much built. But while waiting for the concrete slab surrounding it to cure enough to drive on, I'm building a few things for the pit. Here is my rolling oil drain pan.14 ga HRPO steel pieces laser cut. $140 at the neighbors shop. My normal laser cutter would be a bit cheaper. But I love the instant gratification of sending DXFs over and having parts an hour late. I formed them on my 60 ton Accurpress CNC press brake. Used a big die so I could get corners that will hurt less when I hit my head on them.
Tacking together. Millermatic 180.
Awesome punched 10 ga sheet I got as a drop from the neighbors fab. I am pretty sure I can stand on this plate without it bending and falling in. They said it was really expensive as full sheets. Hopefully they will give me a good deal on the drop.
Plug welding wheel support piece. 2.5" wheels go in here to keep the pan centered in the pit.
Main wheels. 2" urethane with ball bearing. Rated for 110 lbs. 3/8" axle hole in bearing. I thought about using 3/8" rod for the axle, but there is about 1-3/8" unsupported off the end of the pan. Went with 3/4" cold roll and drilled and tapped 3/8" holes in the ends. 2" long 3/8"-16 bolt had a nice length shoulder and makes a fine spindle.
(more in next post)
Reply:(continued from first post)Test fitting this morning. Rolls really nicely.
Supports my 230 lbs with no perceivable deflection. And it is only tack welded at this point. Still rolls well.
After test this morning I decided I need add a few things. Bumpers on the ends so it doesn't slam into the end of the pit. And some pad eyes so I can lift it out with a forklift. There are 3/4" NPT drain bungs in both sides. Installing a short little full port ball valve on one drain. Planning on just lifting it out and hanging from forklift over waste oil drum. But could also lower a drum into the pit or do some sort of pumping arrangement. This is just my personal home shop, so it's not like I am running a quick lube. 15 gallons or whatever this thing will hold will do a lot of oil changes. Besides my pickup truck, all my engines are 100 HP and smaller. But I do worry about limited capacity when doing hydraulic systems. I've got close to 100 gallons of hydraulic oil in multiple pieces of equipment I own.Need to do the full weldout and then send to powder. I will probably TIG the thing with 309L since that is what I do for 99% of my welding. I haven't built too many tanks before, so I am debating between putting the weld on the inside of the tank or the outside. Will probably go inside because there is easier access.I can post some more information about the pit itself and/or of the stairs if anyone is interested. Next major pit project will be covers. I want to be able to put a 15k lb wheel on any individual segment of the cover. I am sure there will be some fabrication involved in this.
Reply:Following these builds
Cool
Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Very nice
Reply:Wow nice work...are you as good a mechanic ??
Reply:This thread belongs on Garage Journal ......
nice work.Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Great Work!Lincoln 350MPMillermatic 350PSyncrowave 2501969 SA200HTP Invertig 221
Reply:
Originally Posted by robson1015
Wow nice work...are you as good a mechanic ??
Reply:I was thinking on your oil pan after it's full and heavy. It may have a tendency to rub against the wall and/or get cocked/stuck.Wheels put sideways at the corners will keep it tracking straight and true
Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:
Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave
Wheels put sideways at the corners will keep it tracking straight and true
Reply:It's really hard to see in any photo I take, but there are four 2-1/2" urethane wheels that run on the inside of the pit rim. You can see the top of the clevis pins I am using as shafts in the corner. They keep is square. I tried just pushing on one corner to intentionally try to jam it in the pit and it won't do it.
Reply:
Originally Posted by kb0thn
It's really hard to see in any photo I take, but there are four 2-1/2" urethane wheels that run on the inside of the pit rim. You can see the top of the clevis pins I am using as shafts in the corner. They keep is square. I tried just pushing on one corner to intentionally try to jam it in the pit and it won't do it.
Reply:It's beautiful; but I think that screening is a mistake, the oil will splatter. Also, my biggest issue with oil changes, how do you get the oil out of the trough into a container? Put a valve and a hose on it so you can drain into the container that you will use to recycle the oil, then its capacity is moot?Do not believe everything that you think.
Reply:slick!Might be concerned about the splashing too with only the screen on top.A little pump will get that oil into a drum with little to no mess/fuss. 12v or 120 they're available cheaply and reliably just about everywhere these days.
Reply:Nice!
Reply:
Originally Posted by Xsbank
how do you get the oil out of the trough into a container? Put a valve and a hose on it so you can drain into the container that you will use to recycle the oil, then its capacity is moot?
Reply:Fantastic work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Looking great! But why are you going to powdercoat it? Oil will make sure it does not rust and will get banged anyways.Mikel
Reply:
Originally Posted by Mikel_24
But why are you going to powdercoat it? Oil will make sure it does not rust and will get banged anyways.
Reply:Very nice craftsmanship!!! I will be making one for my four post lift in the future."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!
" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Thats some nice work you doin there!!
Reply:Really nice build, well thought out."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:I have always thought a pit/lift would be handy to have. What made you choose pit over lift?Great work!
Reply:
Originally Posted by mbarasing
I have always thought a pit/lift would be handy to have. What made you choose pit over lift?
Reply:
Originally Posted by kb0thn
Should I add pit construction photos and story to this thread?
Originally Posted by mbarasing
Of course you should.
Reply:
Originally Posted by kb0thn
Should I add pit construction photos and story to this thread?
Reply:Oh!!! come on guys.... pics are overrated anyways
nothing compares to a nice detailed description of the process you went through to complete your pit and that way we can imagine in our own minds eye what your job looked like
Reply:That would be the pits without pics...
Reply:
Originally Posted by 12V71
That would be the pits without pics...
Reply:
Originally Posted by N2 Welding
Just Pitiful
Reply:
Originally Posted by 12V71
Beware of pitfalls in punny situations.
Reply:The pole shed was built in the 1980's. The owner who had it built lives half a mile away and says it wasn't filled. But the (younger) farmer who farms the land surrounding us says that it was built on fill. From the excavation I have done for the other shop in the building, I know that the soil is hard packed clay. And it has been kept dry for 35 years. I can put 5 tons on a jack stand and it won't leave a mark. So my goal in excavation for the pit was to overdig as little as possible and disturb the surrounding soil as little as possible. I wanted 6" over room on the sides that I could backfill with flowable fill. I decided to use ICF walls so I would need to get back in to strip wall forms.Pit was originally going to be 16' long and the finished floor of the shed was going to be 6ft above the floor of the pit. The inside width is 42". I ended up downsizing it to ~14ft long. The ICF walls chew up 11.25" on either side. Plus 6" overdig on all dimensions requires a hole 16 x 6.5 x 6.5 ... or 676 ft^3 ... or 25 yd^3.I have a backhoe on my compact utility. It looked like it would have barely enough reach. But I am generally morally opposed to renting machinery, so I decided to forge ahead.Cleaned out just enough area to work (stupid):
Laid it out:
Got my 6 year old son to dig:
Reply:Backhoe kind of ran out of reach. If I had cleared more area around it, I could have endless re-position it and done it. But it could really only reach 7ft in a 2ft^2 area:
So I decided to dig a ramp and drive the skid steer in.
That was a little nerve wracking. Doesn't look like much from the photo. But my ramp was steep and the machine is completely underground when in the bottom of the hole.
Reply:But it worked and I was able to square up the hole and flatten the bottom. Touched up the ramp end with the backhoe. And had to do a little hand cleanup. The clay is so hard that a pick axe just bounces off. So used clay spade on big hammer drill to peel off the clay:
With hole dug, I got my beautiful wife to clean up the excavation and set the form for the floor. Did a simple form that would allow the concrete guys to just screed off the form. Slab thickness varies from 6" to 16". Average thickness of 10".
Concrete guys poured the floor while I was out of town. They took it upon themselves to add some 2x4s to make a notch for the walls to key on to. Which I didn't want. Because then they didn't actually screed the whole floor. In fact they didn't finish outside of the notch at all. Which is a big pain with the ICF because they want to sit on a flat surface.
Reply:Their stupid keyway 2x4s caused problems. They didn't put any release agent on them and they didn't pull them right away. Which pisses me off to no end. There was literally 50 gallons of used oil sitting 25ft away. And 100 gallons of diesel sitting 100ft away. I ended up spending about 3 hours getting the keyway forms out piece by piece. And spalling the concrete around them in the process.
But after much work, ended up with something good looking to build on.
Reply:I used FoxBlocks "Reveal" hard faced ICF. They have a removeable plywood inner face. Unfortunately they only come in straight pieces, so the were 10x the amount of effort to use as normal FoxBlocks. Lots of cutting. Here is the first little bit that kind of gives a good cut-away view:
Added lots of vertical rebar. And there is a loop of horizontal rebar at each course.
Ready for internal bracing:
Reply:Internally braced. Used ratchet straps so I could adjust it. Normally there are adjustable ICF wall braces used. But I didn't have any and I didn't have any room for them. So a couple hundred dollars of lumber and screws and ratchet straps were used.
Concrete showed up and concrete guys put together a little chute from scrap wood.
I continuously adjusted the bracing down in the hole.
Reply:Got the walls poured.
Time to strip forms. My son is a very good helper. We removed thousands of screws. About a 5 gallon bucket worth.
My layout allows the pit to be used on one side of the main door while still allowing enough room between shop and pit for another vehicle. Tested that repeatedly with concrete trucks (including one who hit the shop and took out a door). And tested it when I brought home a lathe.
Reply:I stubbed in lines for air intake, air exhaust, electrical, sump pump, and a sleeve for compressed air line:
Then encased it with flowable fill. Flowable fill is a low strength concrete. I used it between the ICF walls and the excavation and over the top of the lines.
It took a lot longer to set up than I expected. Maybe 24 hours before it felt firm. It was easy to trim the extra off just with the bucket on the skid steer. But it did a great job of providing protection for the lines for the further work and will provide a good bearing surface for the slab on top.
More information on the air and utilities in my thread on Practical Machinist:https://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...lation-382543/Last edited by kb0thn; 11-25-2020 at 09:46 AM.Reason: Added Practical Machinist link
Reply:I did a formed steel rim that joins the pit walls to the main slab. It has a 6" ledge for cover / rolling things to sit on. It is 1/4" thick steel. My 60 ton press brake will only so 4' of 1/4" steel, so I had the steel service center brake it for me. First time having them form anything. Material, bending, and delivery was $500 for 1000 lbs. Seems like a deal to me. And similarly, my big CNC band saw was 1/4" too small to cut the miters on the formed pieces (good planning there!). So had the neighbors shop do it on their band saw. They did a bunch of cutting for $150. Those big miters across the formed profile aren't real easy to cut. I was happy with the money I spent subbing those two jobs out.I glued in threaded rod around the perimeter of the pit to support the rim as I built it.
The concrete contractor took a vacation in the middle of the job, so I hired one of his laborers to help. He is an experienced weldor and had more time than I did. So we fit it together and then I had Pat to the welding and grinding.
Pat's weld. Done with a little Millermatic 180 MIG welder. No idea the settings. Probably running wide open.
Reply:Nice!!! an uphill...downhill weld
Reply:Turned 304 stainless steel sockets for a railing around the perimeter. They accept a 3/4" pipe in the socket. And then underneath they have a 3/4"-10 female thread. In case I want to tie something down. Or whatever. Scrap stainless and an hour or two on my CNC lathe.Mag drilled 1/16" oversized holes for the sockets. Of course the corners had to go right through the weld, which wasn't awesome with cheap Amazon HSS annular cutters:
TIG welded in the sockets using 309L and my Miller Syncrowave 180. I only have a foot pedal for it, so was fun running that on top of the ladder.
Flying the welder to work. Always a project. Had to extend the power cord on it. And then get it over the top of the PEX tubing.
Reply:Concrete contractor showed back up from vacation. And decided to pour the whole floor at once, instead of in two pieces. So got to rent the PEX stapler again and put down more PEX. Here is the floor ready for "mud":
Telebelt'ed the concrete in:
Placing concrete:
Reply:The concrete contractor did not finish the floor to the pit rim as it should have been. Very unhappy about that. Pit rim was dead level. But the concrete is 3/8" above the rim in some places and 1/8" below in other. Pretty pissed off about it. All it would have taken is to run the screed to the rim. But they didn't. And I get to look at it for the rest of my life. I hate concrete guys. But even seeing the defects, he declares the concrete is "perfect". But whatever, it's literally set in concrete. Nothing I can reasonably do about it at this point.
I used the last of the really warm weather to paint it. I hate painting. Prep work takes forever.
Rolled on Rust-Oleum oil based safety yellow. Did a couple of coats and then weather got cold. Will see how it looks next summer. I should have made the rim out of stainless.
Reply:Looks like a lot of work. How long did that project take from start to finish? Starting with the backhoe digging to the final painting.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:
Originally Posted by N2 Welding
Looks like a lot of work. How long did that project take start to finish?
Reply:I know you are going to enjoy having that shop once completed. Thumbs up
Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:Re the bad rim job.You could fill the low spots and have a concrete polisher grind it all down to the same level.
Reply:So, I got a question...how are planning to vent that area? Pits will trap dangerous gases if left with circulation...And I love the build, well documented and well thought out approach. I love these kinds of shop builds. |
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发表于 2021-10-23 15:52:18