Gate build help

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Hi all. I am needing to rebuild my double driveway gate, and I am tired of doing it out of wood. My question is about the thinkness of steel needed for the box frame. The gates will be roughly 6 feet tall by 6 feet wide each. I was thinking that I could use 1.5” x 2” tube, but I am conflicted on wall thickness to use. Should I go with .083 or .120?I am attaching the gates to a 6x6 wooden post, so that’s another dilemma that I will have to contend with. Also I want to fill in the box frame with wood boards, so that will add a bit of weight, hence the dilemma about wall thickness of the steel. Any help will be appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:.083 would be sufficient. Are you putting wood on the frame?  Or are you building a steel gate?If the post have held up with wood, then the will hold up with a similar steel design.  Depending on design, the steel will likely be lighter than the wood.
Reply:

Originally Posted by tapwelder

.083 would be sufficient. Are you putting wood on the frame?  Or are you building a steel gate?If the post have held up with wood, then the will hold up with a similar steel design.  Depending on design, the steel will likely be lighter than the wood.
Reply:Use 2" sq. x 14 ga. square tube. It's light but very strong and square tube tends to be much cheaper than rectangular tube.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Bob

Use 2" sq. x 14 ga. square tube. It's light but very strong and square tube tends to be much cheaper than rectangular tube.
Reply:I second the 2" square 14g choice.  Here in southern california (no freezing) I'd even go down to 16g depending on the situation.2x2 square tube can be bought in small quantities cheaply through facebook marketplace, offerup, craigslist, etc. in this area from fence/gate companies - YMMV though.  2" square is VERY common and usually a little cheaper (per pound).The battle with gates is usually the support posts/hinges - especially if you live in an area where it gets below freezing.  feel free to ask any questions you may have and best of luck
Reply:davidpuddyI have read the thread -'you are done with with wood' - 'steel box frame . . . how thick' - 'attach to wood posts' [dilemma/how] -'fill in the box frame with wood' . . . 'a bit of weight' . . .Put down the Ouija Board . . .These issues you know about - consider, 'spinning the telescope' - and starting 'with the Last Part First'.The LPF is two fold - how well the gates work - and the caliber/aesthetics of construction [both inside and out].Design: the look first, engineer the frame [via standard tube] to carry the look - eg. recess and shoulder . . . Fast Forward - the paramount failure with gates are anchor point - both wall and post . . . falling over . . .If you have indefatigable anchors - you can massacre the 'look & weight' - because, it will work for infinitum . . .Your project is rife with unanswered 'details' - start here . . .https://www.google.com/search?safe=a...4dUDCAw&uact=5'Spinning the Telescope' - and finding Last Part First - insures success . . .hthOpusps - P.W.  ^ ^ ^.
Reply:A lot of the gates I build will have a heavier piece of tubing on the hinge side. Light tubing for the other end, top & bottom. No reason that all 4 side have to be the same thickness, hinge side needs a little more beef.
Reply:

Originally Posted by cwby

A lot of the gates I build will have a heavier piece of tubing on the hinge side. Light tubing for the other end, top & bottom. No reason that all 4 side have to be the same thickness, hinge side needs a little more beef.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Bob

I used to do that as well but gave it up as I decided it wasn't necessary. I use those rectangular hinges and the width lets the weld go all the way to the edges changing the tension to the front and back of the gate and not the end. It has worked well even on quite large gates.
Reply:One more question...where I attach the steel hinge  post to my wood post, should I drill through and do like all thread, or just a long lag screw?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:If an opener may be added to these gates, then I would suggest 1/8" wall min/doubler plate at the point of attachment and strong hinges  And careful proper adjustment of the actuator.
Reply:Sorry for the delay. Here is the finished product.

Just a little touch up paint left. Thanks for all the help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Looks greatDave

Originally Posted by davidpuddy

Sorry for the delay. Here is the finished product.

Just a little touch up paint left. Thanks for all the help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:looks good. What did you learn?
Reply:

Originally Posted by tapwelder

looks good. What did you learn?
Reply:Looks good. Thanks for posting up the finished product.
Reply:Looks great! I was going to suggest that you get pre-primed steel, but never mind..... (-;-Ruark"Become one with the puddle, grasshopper" - Welding InstructorLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:

Originally Posted by Ruark

Looks great! I was going to suggest that you get pre-primed steel, but never mind..... (-;
Reply:That turned out nice.You'll find that the gate is stronger than the gateposts.  All the leverage is on the posts.I do different types of gates, but it's same same.

14ga 2x2 with cow panel filler/web.  I can stand on the end of the gate, and it doesn't do much.  Bends a bit, but springs back.  I haven't approached the yield weight/force.  150lbs at 16ft........that's some leverage, and torque.  Now, if'n yer a 250lb sack o' fat, yer mileage might vary

We have a bunch of climb proof gates coming up this Winter.  Same overall design, a considerable bit heavier, but with vertical bars only.  They should be even stronger.  If you have a gate out of sight from the house, you make damn sure it can't be climbed easily.  Azzhole hunters like to go on other people's places, and they like to climb gates.
Reply:

Originally Posted by davidpuddy

Bob, so instead of bullet hinges I should use regular rectangular weld on hinges?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:

Originally Posted by Bob

Not a fan of bullet hinges. I tried to find a picture of the hinge welded in but not very close. I almost always just use 14 ga.x2" square and have never had any problems at all even on fairly heavy gates. And by the way, your gate came out great, really looks good.
Reply:Some of the best hinges I ever used were made by cutting big roller chain( #160 or #240) between the links and welding the two half sections to the gate and post.
Reply:That's really amazing!