Is this weld too cold???

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Almost all of my MIG welds are cursive e style, I also keep the settings at "what the book says". The welds look fine but not the perfect stack of dimes that people like. I was bored and backed down the volts for the second and third picture.The material is 3/16 thick tubing with an 1/8 gusset. The first picture is at the 19 volts 351 IPM. Note not the sharp edges on the loops. This setting is for 3/16 material. The second and third picture is 18.3 volts and 293 IPM. Note Sharper edges. This setting is really for 1/8 material.Neither picture is my prettiest work, just typical. Ascetics is not important for this job, the application is to hold lights for a light tunnel you drive through. Customer is always happy I have made probably 1,000 of these things.The question is does the second third picture look too cold?

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Last edited by Reebz; 1 Day Ago at 10:26 PM.
Reply:It looks like solid wire. If looking for better weld use flux core with gas or no gas.The only time used solid wire when at some else shop. Dave

Originally Posted by Reebz

Almost all of my MIG welds are cursive e style, I also keep the settings at "what the book says". The welds look fine but not the perfect stack of dimes that people like. I was bored and backed down the volts for the second and third picture.The material is 3/16 thick tubing with an 1/8 gusset. The first picture is at the 19 volts 351 IPM. Note not the sharp edges on the loops. This setting is for 3/16 material. The second and third picture is 18.3 volts and 293 IPM. Note Sharper edges. This setting is really for 1/8 material.Neither picture is my prettiest work, just typical. Ascetics is not important for this job, the application is to hold lights for a light tunnel you drive through. Customer is always happy I have made probably 1,000 of these things.The question is does the second third picture look too cold?
Reply:Get some small scrap pieces and weld a t joint. Only weld about 1"-1 1/2" . Then put it in a vise and bend the vertical piece back and forth until it breaks. This is called a break test. If the vertical piece breaks off around the weld bead it has good penetration. If the joint breaks across the weld.... Well you know the answer. We have these debates all the time at work and the Weld Inspectors alway settle it with a break test.
Reply:Tighten up your whip (in your case make smaller e's). The stack of dimes thing is not relevant to GMAW. The science says so. Your welds in the 2nd photo are not wetting out on the toes. This could have to do with your push/pull angle as well as voltage/amperage settings.Lincoln 275 SquarewaveLincoln SP 250
Reply:Not so much "too cold" as you are stepping out too far as you start a new cursive "e". Volts controls the shape of the bead not the penetration. Wire feed speed controls the amps and thus the heat. Decreasing the volts causes the weld to pile up or crown more, increasing the volts causes the weld to flatten. so too cold doesn't seem to be the issue to me. I like the way the toes wet in on the first picture (recommended settings). I think what you really want to do is make narrower "e"s and get the dimes to sit closer together. The way you are doing it now the welds almost look like a string of tack welds. Just tighten up the loops, use your recommended settings and maybe proceed just a tad slower and I think you will be really pleased with the result.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Thanks Guys. I will tighten the loop and slow down. These pictures are after a long day and screwing around trying "to get the look".
Reply:I still don't know why someone would want a weld that looks good but might be weaker....Check out my bench vise website:  http://mivise.comMiller Syncrowave 250DXMillermatic 350P with XR AlumaProMiller Regency 200 with 22A feeder and Spoolmatic 3Hobart Champion EliteEverlast PowerTig 210EXT
Reply:

Originally Posted by G-ManBart

I still don't know why someone would want a weld that looks good but might be weaker....
Reply:I think I'm back on track. I'm not really trying the stack of dimes look here.

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Reply:looks much betterMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:Those   welds are just sitting on top of the plate.  And  although  very  decorative, Like  tig  welds. But they  have very little  structural  strength,  Load  bearing  mig  welds  should be  burned  into  the  plate and  smooth  and flat  on the  top
Reply:

Originally Posted by Josey

Those   welds are just sitting on top of the plate.  And  although  very  decorative, Like  tig  welds. But they  have very little  structural  strength,  Load  bearing  mig  welds  should be  burned  into  the  plate and  smooth  and flat  on the  top
Reply:

Originally Posted by Josey

Those   welds are just sitting on top of the plate.  And  although  very  decorative, Like  tig  welds. But they  have very little  structural  strength,  Load  bearing  mig  welds  should be  burned  into  the  plate and  smooth  and flat  on the  top
Reply:Mig can make beautiful looking welds. As stated, do a bend test. Ive repaired factory welds where the weld was only laying on top. The latest was a farm 3 point backblade. It still lasted for years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Here is a different angle, not the prettiest weld.

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Reply:So T joint bend test Thursday. What is your method?
Reply:Or cut and etch
Reply:I need to look up what to etch with
Reply:

Originally Posted by Reebz

So T joint bend test Thursday. What is your method?
Reply:Naval jelly works, just slowly. Oven cleaner works too
Reply:The horizontal weld in post #9 looks cold on the side with the plate with the hole in it, to me.  I'm good at making cold welds so should know!

You can etch with most acids. Vinegar will even do it super slow.  I used some Ospho recently as it was handy and that worked well after a couple minutes contact.  Naval jelly should do it and easy to find in hardware stores too.-DaveXMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled
Reply:I think your settings look good, maybe slightly cold (hard to tell) but you're travelling too slow. The bead is bigger than it needs to be.IMHO mig on steel should be pretty smooth, the dimed look is generally an indication of to much manipulation, too low a wire speed and not enough straight welding. If you're welding on the flat, turn it up and travel faster.Murphy's Golden Rule: Whoever has the gold, makes the rules.
Reply:I would cut and etch some samples to be sure.  You might be surprised what you find.Like mentioned before any acid works to etch, the weaker acids just take longer to do so (even household vinegar works)  .Looks like you're not getting root penetration (the main problem in penetration vs fillet weld) by the way the ends are rolled over the steel and not wet in. Gun manipulation can cause you to keep the arc too far back in the puddle and not burn into the base steel corner root - This is why many people recommend stringers.When manipulating the gun make sure you are burning into the root of the steel and THEN filling in after it.  When I weave I tend to just trace the leading edge of the puddle (progressing half moon or V shape depending), making sure i am melting into the corner of the base steel.Fillet IMO welds are the easiest to look sound, but not have proper penetration at the root. I know I've made plenty of great looking fillet welds with the toes beautifully wet in and everything - only to cut and etch and see zero root penetration.Best of luck!
Reply:I agree with Munkul, your settings look good. You just have to speed up a bit. Maybe use slightly more of a push angle. I don't do cursive E's but twist my wrist side to side slowly to get good wetting at the toes. Arc should be close to the leading edge of the puddle to ensure good fusion.