Cold Saw

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I'm thinking of buying a cold saw, I think that's what it is called. It would make clean cuts on steel. I have two abrasive chop saws, they don't make consistent square cuts. I'd like something faster & truer cutting.The immediate need is 2-1/2" X 1/4" angle. I'll make square cuts mostly, then cut away 2-1/2 square to make a corner, not a miter. I got the bugs worked out of my plasma cutter, so making guides to facilitate square cuts other than free hand might be another answer. As is, I'm doing more grinding to prepare for welds than I like. Maine Oxy offers Steel Max, a brand I've never heard of, I presume to be Chinese. What brand do you like?An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:I have used a cold saw, and it was simple and slow.  I have an drycut saw and while loud and chip throwing the cuts are awesome.   Cost of new and availability of used cold saws is why I went with the drycut.   Either one is vastly superior to an abrasive saw unless it is hardened material. Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away.  Perfection is the journey.    Mac
Reply:What your describing is a dry cut saw. I have the Makita lc1230 which is a really nice, rigid frame saw. Look for something with a rigid frame and vise or you will regret it thru reduced blade life . With that being said on heavier material a band saw is a much better choice. The dry cut really shines on light gauge tubing. 3/16" and thicker the band saw seems to give a better # of cuts to blade life ratio .
Reply:I have a slight disagreement with MJD I cut 1/4" wall square (up to 3")tube and angle iron too with my Evolution 14" saw for a finer cut squareness.  It may cut slow but still faster then a Band saw.  Blades can be resharpened too.https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/7...t=circular+dryDIY CNC Plasma table USB BOB Price THCHypertherm 65Everlast PowerTig 255 EXTMiler 180 Mig13" metal latheMill/ DrillECT, ECT,
Reply:I like my Dewalt, when I use it.  Mostly, mine is used for onsite work.  It is faster than a bandsaw, however you usually only cut one piece at a time.  A good vice and the angle block would be beneficial.  Also, a stand and racks for cutting would be most important if it is a primary saw. It can fling parts around your shop effortless and in the blink of an eye. If primary saw, then get 2 blades to start. A slip of the metal will knock teeth out.
Reply:

Originally Posted by acourtjester

I have a slight disagreement with MJD I cut 1/4" wall square (up to 3")tube and angle iron too with my Evolution 14" saw for a finer cut squareness.  It may cut slow but still faster then a Band saw.  Blades can be resharpened too.https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/7...t=circular+dry
Reply:Willie, there are lots of brands of dry cut saw. The difference is in the base and the vise. The Makita is arguably the best in breed, but there are other suitable brands like Evolution (some models but not all of them), Morse, etc.https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/LC1230Real cold saws (like this Jet https://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/cs-...old-saw/414226) are likely overkill and will cost an order of magnitude more than a dry cut saw.FWIW, I much prefer my band saw over a dry cut saw. Its just quieter and you can walk away and multitask while it cuts your material. Makes less mess too.Last edited by Louie1961; 10 Hours Ago at 01:05 PM.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:We have the Dewalt 14".The Steel Max looks good too.https://steelmax.com/product/s14-met...ast-iron-base/Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Another vote for the Makita dry cut saw.  


However I will NEVER get rid of my 40 year old Makita abrasive saw….

Last edited by Lis2323; 7 Hours Ago at 03:30 PM.:
Reply:If you buy a dry cut, get one with a cast base instead of sheet metal or stamped. Also look at the vise, there are several saws with mediocre vises.Sent from my SM-G996U using TapatalkMillermatic 252 MIGMiller Dynasty 200DX TIGMiller Spectrum 625 PlasmaAltas 12x36 Metal LatheBridgeport Milling Machinewww.psacustomcreations.com
Reply:If my Jet band saw died today,, I would be looking for a replacement tomorrow,,

I think this saw could realistically cut anything up to 9X16" tube and up to 6X12" solid, I have cut close to those sizes,,This pic shows four pieces of 3/4" thick bar being cut at the same time.

I think Facebook memorizes my interests, or something, but, every time I go to Facebook Marketplace, there are several reasonable priced bandsaws,, big ones, like mine.This saw will cut 1/8" X 1" steel bar just as easily as the parts shown in the pics.I have owned this one over 20 years, and bought it well used,, who knows how long it will run.A $50 blade lasts me 2 to 3 months if I am cutting parts 3 to 4 hours constantly every day.Now, I do not use it except for my personal fab work, I have replaced 2 blades since 2012.The amazing thing is,, the blade cuts 100% perfectly, right up to the last cut,, then, BAM! the blade cuts crooked.No partial wear-out like a mower blade, or something like that.It is very unique,, thinking about how much cutting the saw can do, for so little cost.The saw is so rigid, and accurate, you can clamp a part in the saw, and do cuts that mimic the type of cuts that normally a milling machine is required to do.I have often made cuts like that.I have various "fixtures" that I have built for the saw to assist in doing those type parts.I have a 30 degree, and 60 degree adapter that drops into the vise,, and I can do all types of angle parts with those.
Reply:My experience with dry saws is near zero. I have used cheap band saws. None I've used were name brand, only Grizzly & several identical Chinese saws, not good.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:I have used both dry and cold saws...  I like both, dry is affordable cold is not.  Both make good cuts, both are true if set up right.  I cannot afford a cold saw, but have the rage evolution 2 14 inch  and love it.Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away.  Perfection is the journey.    Mac
Reply:All the different saws have good and bad, the drycut is good as a portable saw a cold saw not so much. The drycut is noisey the cold saw is quiet. Dry cut is in the $500 dollar range a good cold cut saw is a few thousand. Blades are sharpenable for either. for general fabrication in a small operation the drycut is a good choice. Easiest way to damage either blade is to not let the saw get up to speed before engaging the metal. I have and like the Steelmax S14 with a cast base, and they have an attachment for the vise for cutting pipe. V blocks like Morse makes, I made a set for the Steelmax are good for square tubing. Just my thoughts.Mike
Reply:

Originally Posted by Willie B

My experience with dry saws is near zero. I have used cheap band saws. None I've used were name brand, only Grizzly & several identical Chinese saws, not good.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Lis2323

I "think" the larger (7x12) import saws are better than the cheap (4x6). I had two and they worked fine.

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Reply:the Evolution S380CPS is the one I would get if I was in the market.  I currently have a Rage 2 with the stamped steel base, and it works.  Probably not as nice as the case-base saws, but it works.

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