Beta Mig 200 wiring question

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I apologize for making 2 similar posts, I realized this is the more appropriate forum for my question and can't figure out how to delete my other comment. I recently bought my 3rd Beta Mig 200, I keep selling them because I rarely weld (mostly machine and 3d print) but this one came up for $100 and I couldn't say no. The problem is the wire hhowell1990 noticed was getting hot in this thread was disconnected and I wasn't sure which stud it belonged on. From that thread it looks like it is the far right stud. My question is, does there still need to be a jumper for high or low range when using this wire? I have found some Beta Mig 200s use this wire and others don't. On my previous Beta Mig 200 welders I had to connect the (looking left to right) stud 4 to stud 3 for low range and stud 4 to stud 5 for high range. I'm planning to keep this welder, want to wire it correctly. Thanks, Josh
Reply:On mine, the first two posts and the leads by them are connected to determine polarity, each lead goes to one of the two posts, then switched to change polarity. The 3d lead goes to one of the next 3 posts for power level. the middle post (of the 5 posts) is the lowest (called noodle for some reason), the next is low range, and the furthest right is high range.I dont think you jump any of the posts together.Here's the owner manual. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/94...00.html#manual
Reply:Thanks Poleframer. That is the manual I've been working from it is page 22 that is confusing me. If yours is working well just connecting the cable to any of those 3 maybe I'll try that and check the voltage at the welding wire.
Reply:Was just in the shop, looked at it again. I sort of butchered this one, as I only wanted it for a power supply to run a 8vs feeder off of, as a big roll around cabinet wouldnt work well in my shop. The 5 terminals are labled (left to right) - (+),(-), (low), (med), (high).the cable from inside the machine goes to med, on mine, the positive goes to the gun, negative to the ground clamp.On yours pos would go to the gun plug. I took the whole top off the box for mounting the unit where I wanted it, just run leads from it now) and have parts if you're interested in them.The whole feeder unit with motor, and good rollers, and the rheostat. It haddnt been used much, so they in nice condition.
Reply:You were spot on Poleframer! I only tried the 3rd and 5th lugs but got 12V and 35V at the wire from them with the dial set to 3.

I don't need the drive assembly, but a spare on the shelf wouldn't be a bad thing. Can you PM me?
Reply:That arrangement doesn't look correct.  Per the manual posted, from right to left is +, -, LOW, COM, HIGH.LOW and HIGH are transformer outputs, COM is the weld rectifier input and the + & - are the weld rectifier outputs.Manual shows the use of a bus bar (jumper) from HIGH to COM (or LOW to COM as needed).Connected the way shown in the photo above, the output will not be full wave rectified DC output as one input leg is by-passing the weld output rectifier.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110

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Reply:duaneb55, that was how I read the manual too but the manual doesn't show the extra wire that goes down to the rectifiers. My ID tag is super faded so I don't think I can make out the serial number but I will try again today. I notice the manual Poleframer linked, the only manual I have found too, lists a serial number range on the front page, I'm starting to wonder if the welders with the extra lead that goes to the rectifiers were built outside the serial number range covered by that manual? I will test it today to see if I'm getting AC at the welding wire.
Reply:Hmmm. Thanks for chiming in Duaneb55. On the instructions printed on the inside of the door (that I have here) it shows + - then noodle low high, "place cable #102 as shown for desired output" No mention of a jumper. But I'm listening...Ah, CC posted at the same time.Ive been running my 8vs off it for a year now, seems to work well.Last edited by Poleframer; 09-03-2018 at 11:27 AM.
Reply:The diagram on page 22 in the online manual IS different then the one on my door panel.
Reply:Can you post a photo of the diagram on your units' door panel?  That may serve to clear up any conflicting information.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110

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Reply:Can try...


Reply:Thanks for the photo.  Obviously there are other differences inside the unit based on what is shown.  Would be nice to see a circuit diagram of your version to see what they are.  Would likely explain the "NOODLE" terminal I'm sure.I presume your machine has only 3 cables connected to the terminal strip and not 4 as with the other shown in the photos.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110

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Reply:Correct. The extra cable on the positive on his I dont understand either. As I jettisoned the feeder on mine, I just ran the positive and negative to tweco jacks on the front, and run my leads from there to the 8vs and a ground clamp.Made another change, since I'm using it as a cv output from my legend, at first I had a hard time dialing it in, anything in the high range pretty much killed the engine, and had a hard time finding a tap I liked in low, so I changed it to 208 volt. Works great, brought all the OCV readings in low range up 3.5 - 4 volts, and have no problem welding anything up to 1/4". After that I go CC spray or flux.
Reply:But I sidetrack...to the issue, I see the online manual is dated with "issued mar 18/81 revised nov 21/85. My unit SN is 85WS06950, an 85 model, could be a change of wiring around then.
Reply:Based on the extra cable, I presume Josh's machine is an older unit and the description of one of his earlier Beta Migs appears to line up with that thought in addition to the posted manual information.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110

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Reply:Thanks guys. I was out in the shop all day and took the same picture on the door as Poleframer, I hadn't thought to look on the door as I had the entire cover off the machine trying to track wires. Mine is the same diagram, I'll post the entire door for future people.  Oh, my 2nd positive lead goes to the spool gun port....if anyone knows the spool gun pin outs I'd be interested in knowing.


Reply:I just googled what noodle meant, turns out it was a Hobart term.....they did make a lot of restaurant equipment. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...oodle-welding)
Reply:

"Beat" me to it.  Interesting.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110

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Reply:

Originally Posted by Cripple Concepts

Oh, my 2nd positive lead goes to the spool gun port....
Reply:Here are a couple photos of the spool gun output to blend into the thread.



Reply:I'm going to guess that was a previous owner "add-on".I take that back.  I saw the Spool Gun Wire Speed control labeling.  Guess I need to brush up on the different generations of the Beta Mig 200.Last edited by duaneb55; 09-04-2018 at 01:46 PM.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110

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Reply:When I picked up my beta mig 200 I sort of scoured the net on it. I did note that there are a number of machines that had factory spool gun provisions, and guns. Looking at the specs the beta mig 200 was hobarts answer to the venerable millermatic 200, with similar power output, and 9 taps with high and low ranges. I see that the amphinol plug has 4 holes, could be about the same as the early millermatic 200? 2 would be for the contactor/gas solenoid, the other for 24v (?) to the spoolgun motor?Mine was bare bones, but had connectors inside that I found were for the spoolgun, I've thought of hooking one up if I found one, I only "rearranged" the components inside with as little damage as possible, but I've found aluminum wire feeds fine out of the suitcase with the origional hobart gun I shortened and put a teflon liner in.There isnt anything about it in the online manual, it is mostly correct, but with some oddities. If you look on page 14 at the voltage curves for the taps, there is a "nema" line drawn through it that intersects at the machines 200 amp/28 volt =60% duty cycle, but other than that it makes no sense for duty cycle rating, as if someone just drew a line there...Last edited by Poleframer; 09-04-2018 at 10:16 PM.