Wiring Plasma to 240v

admin

Sorry if this has been covered but my search didnt come up with anything.  I have a TD 38xl that is currently wired for 120v. The manual recommends 30a service @120v. It does state that a 20a can be used but only up to a certain setting.  My shop currently only has 15a 120v outlets. I do have a 3 wire 30a 240v plug that is used for my welder. So my questions:1. The manual states it already has 12ga wire so just cut off the plug, install a 240 plug and flip the internal switch to 240. So when I go from 120 to 240 does the wiring go from hot, neutral,  ground to 2 hots and neutral? 2. Since I will be sharing a plug with welder and wanting to avoid plugging/unplugging. ..is the some type of transfer switch that I can put upstream of the current plug so that I can direct current to the machine I'm working with rather than chase cords around everytime I switch machines?3. I assume if my sub panel can handle it and 12ga wire was ran to the 15a outlets that I can just upgrade breakers and outlets to make it all at least 20a. Is this correct?Last edited by Adios Pantelones; 10-05-2020 at 04:53 PM.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Adios Pantelones

Sorry if this has been covered but my search didnt come up with anything.  I have a TD 38xl that is currently wired for 120v. The manual recommends 30a service @120v. It does state that a 20a can be used but only up to a certain setting.  My shop currently only has 15a 120v outlets. I do have a 3 wire 30a 240v plug that is used for my welder. So my questions:1. The manual states it already has 12ga wire so just cut off the plug, install a 240 plug and flip the internal switch to 240. So when I go from 120 to 240 does the wiring go from hot, neutral,  ground to 2 hots and neutral? 2. Since I will be sharing a plug with welder and wanting to avoid plugging/unplugging. ..is the some type of transfer switch that I can put upstream of the current plug so that I can direct current to the machine I'm working with rather than chase cords around everytime I switch machines?3. I assume if my sub panel can handle it and 12ga wire was ran to the 15a outlets that I can just upgrade breakers and outlets to make it all at least 20a. Is this correct?
Reply:Cool, thanks
Reply:If you leave the 120 volt plug on the 38xl and make 240 adapter to that makes the most sense. I have owned 3 of them and always set them up that way.Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:

Originally Posted by Brand X

If you leave the 120 volt plug on the 38xl and make 240 adapter to that makes the most sense. I have owned 3 of them and always set them up that way.
Reply:It will just flash a code.Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:

Originally Posted by Brand X

It will just flash a code.
Reply:The 120 plug has seen it's better days already so I'll just cut it off. Although there's no chance of anyone using the machine but me there is a chance of the wife or kids finding the adapter and plugging in another 120v appliance to 240. I still have to get it up and running as well. I bought it at auction for $75. So far it turns on, AC light comes on, gas light is on. No DC light and it will only strike an arc for a split second intermittently. Looking at the bag of TD electrodes and tips that came with it and think I may have the wrong ones. Also the ceramic gas ring is burnt pretty good. It came with 9-6501 tips and 9-6006 electrodes. All the info I can find says I should have 9-6501 tips and 9-6506 electrodes. Is this correct? What is the difference between the 6506 and 6006 electrodes?Not sure if this bit of troubleshooting says anything but with all tips and electrodes installed I get nothing but an intermittent spark and no DC light. With all tips and electrodes removed I can get spark and the DC light is on. I have ordered a new set of tips, cups and electrodes so I'll see how it works when they get here.
Reply:9-6506 are bigger.then 9-6006  I know the 9-6006 was used in the little torch that came on the air-cut 15c..Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:

Originally Posted by Brand X

9-6506 are bigger.then 9-6006  I know the 9-6006 was used in the little torch that came on the air-cut 15c..
Reply:Thanks for the info! Got the consumables in and it works great as far as I can tell. 1st time owning one but for $75 it seems like a good machine
Reply:You can't mix 65xx and 60xx consumables.  from your description your electrode is touching the nozzle and causing a short circuit. This will shut DC light off right fast.The pak-master 38XL is a single pcb unit and the pcb is obsolete.If you are going to use the 6500 series consumables. the electrode, swirl ring and nozzle all have to be 6500 series. The black retaining cap can be 6000 series.very common problem was to put a 6500 series tip and a 6000 series nozzle in the torch then they can't figure out why it stopped working and the DC light won't come on. The other problem is bent electrodes touching the nozzle.This is an older plasma and it will smoke if you apply 230 volts and have it wired for 115 volts. The current machines will give a line voltage fault and not power up.Send me a PM if you can't get it working. Get a good volt meter and i can walk you through a few cover off tests. Because they are dangerous don't like to post them here.
Reply:

Originally Posted by ccawgc

You can't mix 65xx and 60xx consumables.  from your description your electrode is touching the nozzle and causing a short circuit. This will shut DC light off right fast.The pak-master 38XL is a single pcb unit and the pcb is obsolete.If you are going to use the 6500 series consumables. the electrode, swirl ring and nozzle all have to be 6500 series. The black retaining cap can be 6000 series.very common problem was to put a 6500 series tip and a 6000 series nozzle in the torch then they can't figure out why it stopped working and the DC light won't come on. The other problem is bent electrodes touching the nozzle.This is an older plasma and it will smoke if you apply 230 volts and have it wired for 115 volts. The current machines will give a line voltage fault and not power up.Send me a PM if you can't get it working. Get a good volt meter and i can walk you through a few cover off tests. Because they are dangerous don't like to post them here.
Reply:The 6501 nozzles sometimes work with the aftermarket cups, most times the 6500 nozzles do not. If you use the real factory 9-6003 cup you will not have any issues with the PIPEsab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:Ok guys, you got me confused,  wouldn't you wire a 240 plug and jump off it with a 110 plug?   What did I miss?
Reply:

Originally Posted by Bob-O

Ok guys, you got me confused,  wouldn't you wire a 240 plug and jump off it with a 110 plug?   What did I miss?
Reply:

Originally Posted by Bob-O

Ok guys, you got me confused,  wouldn't you wire a 240 plug and jump off it with a 110 plug?   What did I miss?
Reply:

Originally Posted by Adios Pantelones

I think what you are saying is build a 240 to 120 adapter. That is an option with this machine.  My issue is that if I ever left it laying around or forgot to unplug it the wife or kids are very likely to plug a 120 appliance into it. I'm not going to take that chance.  The 120 plug was shot anyway so I just cut it off and put a 30a 240 clamshell on it. My other option was to install 20a plugs and breakers on my 120 circuit.  I already have 12ga wire so it could easily be done. But you are then limited to 20a on the machine rather than the full 30. And I have the compressor on the same circuit so cutting while the compressor kicks on is a pretty big draw.
Reply:Sorry let me start over,  I really meant to say 240 volt receptacle and come out of it with a 110 volt receptacle side by side.  Then op could plug into a 240 receptacle with one machine leaving it pugged in and plug another 120 volt machine into the 120 volt receptacle and leave it plugged in. Or did I miss the boat all together.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Bob-O

Sorry let me start over,  I really meant to say 240 volt receptacle and come out of it with a 110 volt receptacle side by side.  Then op could plug into a 240 receptacle with one machine leaving it pugged in and plug another 120 volt machine into the 120 volt receptacle and leave it plugged in. Or did I miss the boat all together.