|
|
Hi,I have been learning TIG over the past month. I use the following parameters for learning:Goal: To be tig welding and tig brazing 4130 tubes that are 0.028 and 0.035" thick.Material for training: mild steel 0.049 wall thicknessAmperage: For straight tig 32 to 50 amps, for pulse I have tried various equivalent ranges.Control: 2T mode on torch, no pedal, no effort to vary amperage during use, just set it and go.Filler: ER80S in 0.035 and 0.062 thicknessesTungsten: Ceriated 0.062" ground to a 15* pointArgon: 10CFH thu a lens and various glass cupsCleaning procedure: Saw metal on bandsaw, acetone, remove mill scale inside and out, file the end, then acetone again.Problem: I am not getting fusion on Tee joints. It dances around all over the place but the joint, but it's happy to erode the tube away for me. I am getting better results on butt joints, and tube-tube flat junctures.Contributing problems: 1) I am nearsighted with glasses. Focusing at 14' away is not good for me, I use glasses and then cannot get too close (Yes I am using a self darkening welding helmet as well).2) I have been running the helmet on a potentially darker than needed setting, curious if I lighten it when do I know my eyes are burning out?3) I feel the WP-26 torch that came with this 'Hitbox 200" welder is heavy, for precise work it is pulling me around a bit. I can only weld 1-2 linear inches before dipping the puddle it seems.Questions:1) Is there anything that stands out from the above that can point me toward improvement?2) Do you calibrate autodarkening helmets to comfort or by the book?3) Is it feasible for nearsighted people to weld w/o glasses, or use spectacles like doctors often wear, that zoom slightly4) Is spending money on a lighter torch meaningful with my problems?Thanks!
Reply:Two things stand out. Ditch the ceriated tungstens for thoriated. Keep the ceriated for AC work. The other is up your gas flow. 10cfh is way low for what I think is a #6 or #7 cup. What do you mean 15 degree point? Is that nearly flat, or very pointed?Also try inserting a #2 cheater lens in your hood.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:are you holding a nice tight arc? (close) also torch angle is important... I'd maybe try some fusion welds (without adding filler) just to get the hang of it. it's definitely tougher without a foot pedal... but not impossible. Yes, Cheater lenses help a lot.Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:I'll second the cheater lens. It will help you get much closer and see better. As for your autodark lens, if you can vary the setting, you may not need a very high setting at those amps. Here is a link to an OSHA document that says under 50A TIG (GTAW) you could potentially go as low as 8. The thing to remember with an autodark lens is that you are ALWAYS 100% protected from the UV and IR rays coming from the arc. Even if the lens isn't turned on. The darkness setting only affects how much visible light gets through. Try a setting and if you can't see, nudge it one shade lighter. Keep going lighter until you start seeing OK. If you start seeing spots after welding a little, you will need to go darker. That isn't going to cause long-term damage from a few seconds at too light a setting as it would take a ton of time/exposure to do that.https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/f...ng-welding.pdf-DaveXMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled
Reply:What do you mean 15 degree point? Is that nearly flat, or very pointed?
Reply:IMO, the way you hold the TIG torch has a lot to do with "pin point'ing" the arc, aka holding a consistent and tight arc. Holding it the way you are won't let you use fine-motor control of your hands/fingers. I know everyone's different, so that's just a thought of course since I'm not there to actually see your movements.Last edited by Oscar; 05-28-2021 at 10:59 PM.
1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!
HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Fillets (t-joints) require more amps than butt joints.
Reply:A couple of questions....Have you spent many hours trying to get really, really nice beads in a flat, straight line without any kind of joint involved? If not you will make faster overall progress by mastering that before trying anything more complicated. If you can't put down a nice bead on a flat piece of metal lying on the bench it's not going to get better trying a joint much less one propped on a fixture, etc.Do you use anything to prop your torch hand in place? The picture with the fixture has your hand completely unsupported and anybody will wind up dipping the tungsten trying to weld that way. The fact you have the piece raised up even higher from the table makes it more challenging. Often we'll have to make/modify something the right height to serve as a prop for the torch. Ideally your hand will be sliding along the prop so it's just very minor adjustments to the torch as you move along. After learning to actually make good beads the next most important thing is probably learning how to get into a stable position...it's really very important.Check out my bench vise website: http://mivise.comMiller Syncrowave 250DXMillermatic 350P with XR AlumaProMiller Regency 200 with 22A feeder and Spoolmatic 3Hobart Champion EliteEverlast PowerTig 210EXT
Reply:ur adding in ur filler too soon, and to much. get that silly hose off ur head and relax (theres no smoke in tig). then, sit back, loosen up, and dial in and run some puddle practice puddles w/o filler. then go back to what ur doin, w/ delayed and less filler
Reply:
Originally Posted by 123weld
get that silly hose off ur head and relax (theres no smoke in tig).
Reply:
Originally Posted by 123weld
ur adding in ur filler too soon, and to much. get that silly hose off ur head and relax .r
Reply:A ck17 torch might be a little more comfortable, especially for anything below 150amps.You can get safety glasses with cheaters built in.I think it would be better for you to turn the pulse off until you learn to control the puddle, and can consistently add filler in a uniform bead.Your grip doesn't look comfortable, or look like you can make fine corrections because your wrist seems fully rotated, like Oscar noted above. Experience will guide you on this one, as you will find what works for you. Doing welds flat on the table will help, as doing welds in vertical , and overhead, and elevated positions do add difficulty. Spend some time watching Weldingtipsandtricks videos, he can explain it so well, while he makes it seem so easy.And finally, getting better for most people (there may be some exceptions) is simply : Practice, practice, practice. Doing the same thing over, and over, and over, and expecting a different result, isn't insanity, its called "practice". I've often wondered did Einstein ever play the piano ? https://www.weldingweb.com/images/smilies/smile.gifGood luckLast edited by albrightree; 05-29-2021 at 10:49 AM.Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:
Originally Posted by G-ManBart
He's trying cheater lenses that were fogging up, so he put a blower on to keep the cheaters clear so he can see. But hey, don't bother actually reading what someone posts before replying....
Reply:
Originally Posted by 123weld
i noticed where he listed the hose as a "problem". his lenses are fogging, most likely cuz, he's not "relaxed", like i already said, and breathing to hard or out out his mouth. that doesnt mean, go hook a blower up to ur head.. i briefly scanned what he said, and i looked at the pics, and thats how i choose to do it sometimes. and i still say get the silly hose off his head. so, don't come looking to screw w/ me old man, ur 2 for 2 on that now, try sitting back and listening. u arent learning anything when u run ur fool mouth. now u just learned the most likely reason why his cheaters are fogging up
Reply:I haven't read the whole thread, but if I was getting results like that, my first instinct would be to crank up the heat. You want the toes to wet out a little better. It looks like you're trying to creep up to the right heat a bit too slowly/carefully for fear of blowing through. Be bold and step on it! If you start to blow through, increase your travel speed. Nothing wrong with a keyhole so long as you fill it all back in. More pedal is rarely the wrong answer, but it's pretty obvious when it is.ETA: I just remembered you're not using a pedal. Oh, well ... I'd still try turning up the heat. Let 'er eat!Last edited by Kelvin; 05-29-2021 at 05:01 PM.
Reply:I'd like to see how it's attached to his head....
Reply:
Originally Posted by G-ManBart
If you had read, not just scanned, you would have noticed he said he can now see after adding the blower. .
Reply:
Originally Posted by Insect
Thanks. The welds are improving, enjoying it.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Tiggatoo
I may have to steal that fan idea....................I mean borrow
Reply:
Originally Posted by Insect
I need to push the button for 2T operation, the button is far from the head. Here is a pic of one way of holding it (discovered today that it can rotate along the body)
Reply:The way you are holding the torch is terrible - in my opinion.It does not allow for enough fine motor skills from your fingers/hand.Yes, the wp26 is awful for this purpose. The 9 series, or 17 with stubby hardware, will be much better. Make sure to buy a flex head.I burned up a few 26 style torches on thick aluminum, but you are not planning to weld that.I do not have students start on thin tubing joints because they need to learn to tig weld before doing something hard.Complex bracing of your hand is not needed, a more efficient torch holding style is though.Hold like a fat marker, not a hammer (unless walking the cup of course).Using the "tig finger" from weldingtipsandtricks.com fixes a lot bracing issues btw.With your stated goals of welding an airplane - I would suggest getting very good at 1/8" thick material and then working your way down.Jody Collier is really someone you should watch for learning to weld.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Yup, two pics showing the same things about torch holding/manipulation, so I think it's safe to assume the arc is literally all over the place, inconsistently increasing & decreasing the arc length, and just overall not having the right technique. Imagine the water is the arc. This is what happens when your technique does not assert the needed level of control (and produces the results you have shown)
I don't think I'm out of line saying that you need to go back to square 1 and forget tubing and produce sound weld beads in the flat position for various joint geometries (butt, lap, inside T/fillet, outside corner). I mean technically you can use tubing for these joints, but I think you get the gist of my suggestion.In the end it is ALL about knowledge. When you acquire the knowledge to self-diagnose, everything will fall into place.Last edited by Oscar; 05-30-2021 at 11:03 AM.
1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!
HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:
Originally Posted by 123weld
go back and read both our replies (post #8, 9 ) . my line and a half (from scanning) , describes the weld problem, and what to do about it. your 7 lines of questions, and babying him w/ hand supports, says nothing of whats wrong w/ welds
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
I don't think I'm out of line saying that you need to go back to square 1 and forget tubing and produce sound weld beads in the flat position for various joint geometries (butt, lap, inside T/fillet, outside corner). I mean technically you can use tubing for these joints, but I think you get the gist of my suggestion.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Insect
Shop condition: It's a humidity controlled basement, but with the door open and light rain outside, that was the issue. Not anymore with the new fan though.Thanks. The welds are improving, enjoying it.Google "TIG welding arm rest". You don't need to buy one, just see how they are used and then adapt something yourself.I like what Oscar said. You need to work on simple shapes and projects first until you build more confident to tackle more complex jobs.Not sure what you mean by "nearsighted with glasses". If that means nearsighted "without glasses", then don't use them at all. Simple is better.
Reply:
Originally Posted by G-ManBart
Being able to see is key, and sometimes a non-traditional fix is what it takes!.
Reply:Several folks have asked/suggested practicing straight beads in the flat positionAlong those lines, I'm assuming you're using the bricks to keep the work off the wooden table because you don't have a metal welding table available, right?
Reply:
Originally Posted by Insect
It's the pointy form of 15 deg.Your advices were helpful, here is what I did:1) Reduce cup from #6 to #52) Increase argon from 10 to 13 CFH (Welds finish clean, not grey colored now)3) Bought a 2.5 magnifier for the hood4) Put 3000 lumens of light right on the weld. (helps my dynamic range of the view)5) Put a blower on my head to clear the fog off the magnifier lens6) From straight tig to now a pulse at 95 hi / 20 lo / 33Hz / 33% cycle time. (Focusing more on pulse, been back and forth, pulse seems 20% better at agitating the puddle to bridge gaps for me)7) Helmet to 9.5 shade, previously around 11I can finally see, it makes a big difference. The weld it now useable, but not pretty. Present problems:The blower is pulling the hood a bit, I need to hang the airline from the ceiling.I keep dipping the puddle more than I want to. Questions:1) When we dip the electrode briefly and weld action continues OK, do most of you stop, replace, resume, or just keep going? * Context, this training is eventually for an ultralight aircraft fuselage, quality expectations similar to the bicycle industry, etc.2) Is my WP-26 torch too heavy and thus causing problems, would a WP-9 even fit my 'Hitbox 200" welder, would it feel better for low amp work, or not worth it?3) I often find myself doing a 2nd pass before argon afterflow is done (to stay out of oxidation), to smooth things out where bridging was lacking. Is this an unacceptable practice?This has been quite helpful, I am thankful. Below some pics of today's work (I always wear 2 gloves... just a pic)Attachment 1728163 Attachment 1728164 Attachment 1728165
Reply:
Originally Posted by Insect
Advice taken: Today most of the effort was on straight line paths. It's a thin stock, so 2" and pause due to heat, it does teach fine motor skill and awareness of heat flow, helpful.Right about the bricks, so I put a 1/2" plate of aluminum on the table, ground is still to the work, but the alu is slippery and flat, not like balancing on bricks, a bit better control, and allows me to put hand on a woodblock when needed. I know the pro's use the table as a groundplane (or positive plane in tig, etc.) just fine, that scares me at this stage, I need to learn a little more about electrocution risks. Firmly grounding the workpiece is the simplest way I know of not getting shocked in a bad way.I was watching Jody's vids before coming here, he is a wealth of information, and takes quality videography under arc conditions, still follow him.The door :
, I prefer to keep a door open to let some fumes pass, it reduces my potential for maganese poisoning which is known for causing irritability, aggressiveness, or muscular tremors. Some of the passes below were at one end or the other as far as amperage so don't laugh too much. I like to collect symptoms of each end of a control variable to discover what the median should look like in most things like this, I filled up some old tubes with lines too afterward, will keep at it. Argon was at 2200 new a month ago, now 650psi, on an 80 cylinder (my pseudo-hourmeter of total welding practice time so far). I guess I exchange it at a certain value?Thanks
Reply:
Originally Posted by Insect
The door :
, I prefer to keep a door open to let some fumes pass, it reduces my potential for maganese poisoning which is known for causing irritability, aggressiveness, or muscular tremors.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Insect
The door :
, I prefer to keep a door open to let some fumes pass, it reduces my potential for maganese poisoning which is known for causing irritability, aggressiveness, or muscular tremors.
Reply:I like to keep a WP 9 torch around for low amp applications. Flex head even better for me. The small torch is night and day from the 26 as far as manipulation is concerned.Thermal Arc 320SP ( Lorch )Cobra PythonsThermal Arc 300 AC/DC ( Sanrex )ESAB 301i AC/DC ( Lorch )Thermal Arc 161STL ( WTL )Thermal Arc 190S ( Sanrex )Cut Master 82, 42. Cut45 ( WTL )Victor Gas Apps.Boxes and boxes of welding crap.
Reply:I would suggest changing to a CK 17 torch also. But, if you look at the picture of his torch, he has amp control buttons on it. It is hard wired to the machine. Years ago I had a Diversion 180 with the same type of setup. Major hassle to change the torch. One reason I no longer have that machine.Last edited by 'Stang; 05-31-2021 at 08:33 PM.
Reply:
Originally Posted by 'Stang
if you look at the picture of his torch, he has amp control buttons on it. It is hard wired to the machine..
Reply:
Originally Posted by 123weld
in this case, the traditional way of shutting the door on a rainy day, would have worked. then the hose he listed as "problems", wouldnt be. am i right? |
|
发表于 2021-9-1 23:18:05