How to make a dead end cap on tubing?

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Anybody got a template or layout technique for forming a dead end cap on pipe/tubing? I am capping a piece of 6 inch tubing.  Non structural use.Thanks.
Reply:Subtract 1 wall thickness from the size... i.e. 1/2 wall make it 5 1/2 x 5 1/2.  Center, tack and weld out. Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away.  Perfection is the journey.    Mac
Reply:https://images.app.goo.gl/oCHoSeAX3Kj4dLee7Looking for thisLast edited by tapwelder; 10-16-2020 at 05:29 PM.
Reply:They call that a bull plug. Maybe do a search for that. The pipefitters handbook by Thomas Franklin gives step by step to build one.On this link use procedure for a welded tee i.e. saddle the end & re-use the cut out from the branch for the end.http://navybmr.com/study%20material/...14251A_ch2.pdf
Reply:I did a write-up about this with emphasis on  the layout.  https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...ipeliner+grillMiller 350 DynastyMiller TrailblazerMiller 625 Plasma Lincoln Power MIGVictor oxy/acetyleneHyperthem 85
Reply:There is also the "orange peel" cap...
Reply:A forged pipe cap may fit too.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Welder Dave

A forged pipe cap may fit too.
Reply:My former made a deal for some drill stem for his fence and slipped pipe caps over the drill stem for the post tops. Rolled them to put the fillets weld on and the caps were slightly flattened by the post pounder but looked pretty neat.
Reply:Thanks folk.  I was actually looking to make that particular Bullnose/dead end cap.  I will look at Blucllplt's thread.The orange peel, appears to be more popular and comes up under Bullnose search.Last edited by tapwelder; 10-16-2020 at 09:09 PM.
Reply:HmmmSo,  I go to a file cabinet in my office with some pipe layout tools I never use.  Literally new in box.  One tool is a curve-o-mark contour.  In the manual is instructions/layout for a Bonnet head pressure cylinder.  Looks like a Bullnose/dead end cap to me.  My kids would say you deserve a neck for that... Then slap me on the back of the neck....Last edited by tapwelder; 10-16-2020 at 09:36 PM.
Reply:I’ve used the curv-o-mark to layout pipe for end caps and branch fittings.  There is a thread by kuzineddie (sp?) that I think addresses using one for the bullhead type fitting.Miller 350 DynastyMiller TrailblazerMiller 625 Plasma Lincoln Power MIGVictor oxy/acetyleneHyperthem 85
Reply:Yeah,  Thanks.  I am sure your thread and kuzineddie's thread are the reason I have these pipe layout tools.  Even got the drywall tape...
Reply:Took a couple of attempts to get the saddle to fit. I only had a couple pieces on tubing at 7ish inches each.  So, the contour tool would not work.  I ended up cutting a template for the saddle after the fish mouth was cut.   I used drywall tape to for layout the fish mouth on the tubing.  And gasket material to wrap over the top of the fish mouth to trace/cut a template for the saddle.  I look forward to another attempt when I have more tubing.  Probably doesn't take too long for those who know what to do.Thanks for all the suggestions.Looks like an owl?

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Reply:Looks like it came out very well!Miller 350 DynastyMiller TrailblazerMiller 625 Plasma Lincoln Power MIGVictor oxy/acetyleneHyperthem 85
Reply:Looks good !!
Reply:Nothing wrong with that.
Reply:That does look great.  Question:  Why is that bull head curved cap any better / worse than just a round disk welded in place with tube cut straight at a 90 degree angle?The reason I'm asking is this...  (is it worth the effort to add an additional tab "Dead End Cap")Last edited by zipzit; 10-20-2020 at 06:52 PM.
Reply:

Originally Posted by zipzit

That does look great.  Question:  Why is that bull head curved cap any better / worse than just a round disk welded in place with tube cut straight at a 90 degree angle?The reason I'm asking is this...  (is it worth the effort to add an additional tab "Dead End Cap")
Reply:12V71

Originally Posted by 12V71

There is also the "orange peel" cap...
Reply:

Originally Posted by BluCllrPlt

I did a write-up about this with emphasis on  the layout.  https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...ipeliner+grill
Reply:I would think the angle would change with wall thickness.  Since the wall thickness would need to be accounted for for it to sit flush and the upper edge would need to match the od of of the material.
Reply:

Originally Posted by zipzit

Blu...  That's a pretty impressive posting.  I'd like to ask about one aspect there, and that is the bevel (to accommodate weld bead).   I'm seriously thinking of adding this joint to the tubenotcher program, and I'd like to program that bevel.   If I were to make that joint with the intent of brazing it, I'd want zero bevel, maximum material contact throughout the joints full thickness.If I were to use stick / MIG / TIG a preformed bevel would make the job go easier.  What's the right bevel "angle".  Your example started out at 45 degrees per side (90 degrees total), but is that optimal?  Anybody know?  Is 37.5 degrees a magic number?My tendency it to create the patterns with inside surface dimensions = zero gap (line to line), and provide an option for outside surface bevel (none or 90 degrees or X  degrees?)  What makes sense here?  Your thoughts?
Reply:

Originally Posted by tapwelder

I would think the angle would change with wall thickness.  Since the wall thickness would need to be accounted for for it to sit flush and the upper edge would need to match the od of of the material.
Reply:

Originally Posted by BluCllrPlt

All the texts/handbooks I have read only indicate a 45 degree angle.  In the morning I will submit a photo of the angle that I think you have a question about.

Originally Posted by BluCllrPlt

All the texts/handbooks I have read only indicate a 45 degree angle.  In the morning I will submit a photo of the angle that I think you have a question about.