|
|
So, I had a bunch coupons in varying thickness to practice with. I welded a nice bead (in comparrison to later) on some 3/8-1/4 mild steel but, as you know had an error low voltage since I was using 110.So, I thought I would practice on the 1/16 (actually .07) thick coupons. Im using Hobart Fabshield 21b.The chart on the door for volt a speed say for 1/16 with that wire set it at 14v 70wire speed. So, that is what I tried and the welds (if you can can them that) where horrendous. More like little balls spread out on surface. No nice flow of weld puddle when I had the voltage much higher at like 18-19 on that 3/8-1/4 piece.So, I did some investigating and it turns out Hobart Fabshield 21b recommends the lowest starting voltage of 17v and 75speed using .35 wire which by then I was tired for bed and never tried. I am guessing at that voltage it will be much better?Then I noticed on the door chart of welder the recommendations I was going by say thats for Mig in Smig.So, I can only assume the reason I couldn't get a good puddle going is because the voltage was way to low for that wire?Is it better to go by the Manufacturers Flux Core recommendations as a starting point?So, anyhow try not to laugh at the pics to much.
Obviously the better weld is the 3/8-1/4 at the higher amerage when I had error could because I was on 110v. Then the recommended door panel volt on the 1/16 that is horrendous.Thanks for the guidance in advance.
Attached Images
Last edited by MikeNOhio; 04-28-2019 at 12:00 PM.
Reply:I think you're gonna need a lot more volts to do any kind of actual welding
14volts!!! I'm surprised it could even melt the wire
Reply:Well, thats what I guessed. My big question was is it typical that the placard on weld door only applies to the Mig or in this case Smig and you should go by wire makers recommendations (especially on flux core)?Also, as I said I am a begginer pretty much and new to this machine. So, that second picture is indicative of not enough Voltage?Thanks for commenting any and all help/advice is appreciated.
Reply:Just keep turning it up til' you hear a nice constant even bacon frying sound while running a bead.... with no pushback from the wire. Most of the charts on these welders are barely usable as a starting point and even then leave a bit to be desired.
Reply:Well, I figured it out and I almost feel guilty. First off even cranking up the volts etc and wire speed it still did not do a ton better. That is until I started looking at the copper ground clamp the other owner put on. For one the bolt that clamps down on the braided copper wire wasnt even tight ( it came loose easy with my fingers). And two he never trimmed the secondary band and ran it through the clamp and crimped it over. Now whether that is the purpose or if its suppose to be crimped on rubber insulation I am not sure but, one thing for sure retesting after the ground to copper wire was tight made a significant difference. I was running 16volts and 130wfs on this weld after everything was tightened up.The prior owner also had the spool on with wire coming off the top really putting a nice curve into wire so, that was a quick remedy.I think the guy sold me this so cheap because he was frustrated and thought the welder had something wrong with it. To that I almost feel bad for him.Anyhow the welds are far from good but, a darn sure better then what it was doing.Here is a picture of the loose and uncrimped lil tab just jiggling aroundon clamp.
Attached Images
Last edited by MikeNOhio; 04-29-2019 at 03:42 AM.
Reply:Need more wire speed, let it dig in and not go to fast, drag that wire and work it in a C pattern. I weld everyday with the Rebel and the charts in the door do not cover .035 e71t, they are close just add 15-20 on the WFS using the .030 chart at 17volts. You will get the hang of it.ESAB Rebels 215 and 235, ESAB HELIARC 281i, ESAB ET 301i, Hypertherm 85 and 45XP, Thermal Arc 185, TD 60i, HTP PRO PULSE 300
Reply:
Originally Posted by Jawslandshark
Need more wire speed, let it dig in and not go to fast, drag that wire and work it in a C pattern. I weld everyday with the Rebel and the charts in the door do not cover .035 e71t, they are close just add 15-20 on the WFS using the .030 chart at 17volts. You will get the hang of it.
Reply:did you reverse the polarity? You shouldn't get any spatter when set right. Reccomended polarity electrode negative (opposite to solid wire)I would switch smart mig/synergic off and control volts/wire speed directly.Data sheet for the ACTUAL wire is better than any welding machine chart. See below
https://www.hobartbrothers.com/uploa...bshield21B.pdf
Reply:for reference, look through this thread:https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.ph...that-Bad/page2Look at Tackit's posts showing what fluxcore welds CAN look like. The Lincoln NR211MP wire is directly equivalent to the hobart fabshield 21. All that spatter means something is set wrongly.It also doesn't make a frying bacon sound, that's completely wrong! It will make a smooth hiss with a bit of sizzle, and you'll see the wire "spray" transfer in the arc.
Reply:
Originally Posted by MikeNOhio
ThanksI praticed again today for a couple hours on a new batch of coupons I cut.Im getting better results each time.I didnt even notice that it said .030 lol. Guess they shouldn't have printed the writing on a darker background in that area or it might help to wear my glasses a tad more. LoL
Reply:Ok, thanks for the tips.Learning new stuff or relearning what you long forgot is so fun. I will master this hopefully sooner then later.
Reply:Got my C25 bottle all hooked up and some Lincoln Superarc 56 .030 wire.Gotta say for this being my fourth pratice coupon I am feeling better. Simply set it as 12ga. in SMig and welding it did.Really impressed with this welder so far.
Attached Images
 |
|
发表于 2021-9-1 23:17:27