Powermax30 shuts off while cutting

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I have a powermax30 that's about 4 years old and has been absolutely flawless until yesterday. I turned it on and cut about an inch into a picec of 1/4" plate and the machine shut off just like you flipped the switch. I turned the switch off and back on and nothing. I could wait about 10 minutes and turn it on and be able to cut another inch and it would shut down again. When I say it shuts off, I mean it's just like you pulled the plug. Any ideas at all?
Reply:Well....that has never happened to me, however if you contact tech service I am very positive they will steer you right to it. [email protected]  or 1 800 643 9878 .My bet is with the torch "parts in place" switch. This switch (inside the torch) shuts the power supply off when you remove the consumables as a safety feature. If you have severely worn consumables....or consumables not manufactured by Hypertherm this switch can randomly shut the unit off. The switch also could be worn and not activating adequately. Either way, tech service can direct you to resolving it.   Jim Colt    Hypertherm

Originally Posted by LMREESE

I have a powermax30 that's about 4 years old and has been absolutely flawless until yesterday. I turned it on and cut about an inch into a picec of 1/4" plate and the machine shut off just like you flipped the switch. I turned the switch off and back on and nothing. I could wait about 10 minutes and turn it on and be able to cut another inch and it would shut down again. When I say it shuts off, I mean it's just like you pulled the plug. Any ideas at all?
Reply:You pick the order but I'd also check the connections at the receptacle it's plugged into, the receptacle itself, the power cord plug/connections to see if they're loosing contact under load.  There's been more than one occasion that a loose connection has wreaked havoc with machines of all sorts.If Jim's suggestions come up empty I'd check the main power switch to see if it's contacts are loosing conductivity under load by connecting a VOM to the load side using alligator clip test leads or method of your choice so you can see immediate results as soon as the unit shuts off.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110

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Reply:I had a similar issue with a mig welder and it turned out that the thermal over temp ( duty cycle ) sensor was failing.
Reply:I know this sounds obvious, but give the guys at Hypertherm a call. Often times they can narrow it down to a few parts for you to troubleshoot at home.ESAB Powercut 1600/ Hypertherm 30XP + 45XP/ Lincoln Powermig 255/ Jet Band SawCheck out my plasma cutter reviews also!Current Project: 175 Gallon Reverse Flow BBQ Smoker!
Reply:Grab the cell and go to the shop. Call the tech guys and get to the troubleshoot session.You'll laugh when you find out the problem.
Reply:I know this thread is a little old. But Did you ever get problem solved.I have the same issue now The story is I bought this back in 2010 I never had the feeling things were right with it so i used it for about 4 Hr. total .Covered it up put it away because things got really crazy.So fast forward 8 years This same problem occurred that you are having Exactly the same Believe me I go by the book I even have a sealed dedicated air hose for the cutter With a Hypertherm filter .Well now I am really discusted with it. You could not tell this was ever used Like a new unit So i called hyperthermia Gave them the code after the shut down. He came up with a Bad board gave me a price of 700.00 just for the board.Well that is not going to happen. So anyone interested in a like new PM 30 with a burnt board and about 300.00 in consumables and acc let me know.Last edited by tonylumps; 11-22-2018 at 09:34 AM.
Reply:It is unlikely that a circuit board is bad. In most cases your symptoms will indicate a loose, corroded, dirty connection inside the unit. In many cases you simply remove the cover, unplug and replug all connections a few times, use some contact cleaner and power it back up. A loose connection could be in the torch as well....the trigger connections or the PIP (parts in place) switch connections can do the same thing. Often the same symptoms occur that a bad circuit board will indicate.....especially when you get a repair quote over the phone. The phone tech can only make an educated worse case guess when it comes to remote troubleshooting.    Jim Colt    Hypertherm

Originally Posted by tonylumps

I know this thread is a little old. But Did you ever get problem solved.I have the same issue now The story is I bought this back in 2010 I never had the feeling things were right with it so i used it for about 4 Hr. total .Covered it up put it away because things got really crazy.So fast forward 8 years This same problem occurred that you are having Exactly the same Believe me I go by the book I even have a sealed dedicated air hose for the cutter With a Hypertherm filter .Well now I am really discusted with it. You could not tell this was ever used Like a new unit So i called hyperthermia Gave them the code after the shut down. He came up with a Bad board gave me a price of 700.00 just for the board.Well that is not going to happen. So anyone interested in a like new PM 30 with a burnt board and about 300.00 in consumables and acc let me know.
Reply:Thanks Jim I will give it a try When I called Hypertherm Teck and gave him the blinking code.Witch was a 2. He jumped on the board real quick Just gave me a retail price of the board.That was not going to do it for me The Cutter was stored in a dry but not heated garage.You think corrosion could still be an issue.Will Electric contact cleaner  do any good on these connectors. Thanks Tony
Reply:Jim Just an update. Took all the covers As far as I dear to go. Sprayed every plug I could get at Loosened and tightened every nut and bolt i could get at. Put every thing back together and tried it out .I thought I had it solved .Made about 6 cuts in 1/8 about 6" long they were perfect.And it started to do it again.It was better than the last try.The only thing I have not tried is plugging it into 120 and seeing if that changes anything.Will keep trying for a little while longer.I know someone with a little more electrical know how will get it up and runningIf I can't then Ebay or CL .Hate to to do it But 625.00 for a shot in the dark is hard to swallow for me
Reply:

Originally Posted by jimcolt

It is unlikely that a circuit board is bad. In most cases your symptoms will indicate a loose, corroded, dirty connection inside the unit. In many cases you simply remove the cover, unplug and replug all connections a few times, use some contact cleaner and power it back up. A loose connection could be in the torch as well....the trigger connections or the PIP (parts in place) switch connections can do the same thing. Often the same symptoms occur that a bad circuit board will indicate.....especially when you get a repair quote over the phone. The phone tech can only make an educated worse case guess when it comes to remote troubleshooting.    Jim Colt    Hypertherm
Reply:Did not. But will do.When I powered with 120 I made about 3 cuts on about 16" long on 1/16 that looked like you cut it with a knife .Then It happened again.I am willing to try anything .but that work board intimidates me.I was thinking about getting my rubber Mallet and tapping around the bottom of the unit.Maybe if something is loose or corroded it will change the way it is acting now.I am not in a hurry to sell until I am satisfied that I did all I could to bring it back to life.If I had the money I would buy a new one.
Reply:Thanks For for the link.But since this started about a Month ago I have changed everything 10 times .I finally did my last going over.Closed it up .Took pictures .And will put it on On eBay and CL.Maybe somebody with a little more know how on these things Will get it up and running