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I decided to make another thread specific to my welder progress. After some researching on stick welders I decided it was a very smart idea to have an old-school transformer-based machine, at the very least as a back-up machine. My last project requiring heavier welds than what I could do with my light flux core machine lead me on to my researching. I was able to do that project at a friend's shop, but I don't want the inconvenience of driving over there every time I need to do heavier welding. So I finally decided to get a heavier welder. There were a lot of thoughts I had on machines. I know someone that works at Lowes and was able to get me a better price on a new AC/DC 225 tombstone, but it was still going to be over $500. After browsing the local used market for one of those tombstones I wasn't having much luck. They were 90% just AC machines. I wanted DC also. A friend of mine told me to check out Facebook Market Place also. Thats where I found this one listed - not too far away, in the grand scheme of things, but still a decent drive. I wasn't too sure on the older machine so I did some research in to them. In that research I came across the following thread here: https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...larc-250-AC-DCThere were also a few YouTube videos I found, one on a restoration here:The consensus was it was a great machine and hard to pass up. So I bought it! The initial pictures I saw of the sale listing showed it to be in very good condition. Considering the stories behind a lot of these welders they don't always get the best treatment or care and end up in much worse shape. So I was pretty excited. The original listing was for $150 and it was dropped to $100. Again, based on the pictures, if you look past the dirt, grime, and some worn paint - the machine looked to be in spectacular condition so it was a no-brainer to buy it. After picking it up and getting it home it is actually in better cosmetic shape than the pictures showed.I picked the machine up Saturday (2 days ago). Today was unloading day. When I picked it up the machine didn't seem as heavy as I was expecting. However, I pulled it up ramps and in to the truck with a winch so the winch did all the heavy lifting. Once I got it out of the truck and wheeled it around it was a totally different beast. Trying to get it back up the hill on the driveway and in to the garage was a reality check. I almost needed the winch to get it up the splash guard channel in the concrete where the garage door seal sits. And that is only a 1/2-3/4" bump. There was not much of a running start because I had all my weight in to it (all 150lbs) just to get it to roll back up the driveway.The back story to this welder:It was owned by a trucking company in rural Ohio. The guy I bought the machine from was a tech for the trucking company for some time. He acquired the machine after the shop upgraded equipment. There was an older tech that left or retired and no one wanted the old relic to weld with so they bought some more modern Miller equipment. This Idealarc 250 got rolled out the shop and the tech I bought it from took it home. The older tech that used this machine took excellent care of it and it was a well-loved machine. As best the tech I bought it from knew - the trucking company was the original owner of the welder. I don't doubt it - that is common in that part of the state. It is very much Amish country and lots of places you go to is like a trip back in time. The other thing to think about is the machine doesn't have a dent in the case anywhere. If it had been moved around much I doubt it would have fared so well. So that is another reason I believe the trucking company was the original home of the machine. Ideas to come: The first thing is I want to check over the electrical components and make sure the transformer isn't shorted out or there are any suspect diodes. I'll also give it a preliminary cleaning. Second - I am hoping to restore this machine. As to how deep of a restoration - I am not quite sure. I would at least like to get the cabinet sanded down and re-painted. I am not sure what the inside of the cabinet looks like so I am unsure what condition the inside is in. We'll see.
The ramps aren't very stable if you load them on the sides so I used ratchet straps and aluminum military tent poles/mast pipe sections to stabilize them. I also put blocks of wood between the ramps to space them out a bit.
Pulling power was my trusty Superwinch Terra 45SR.
The anchor for the winch was a 3/4" x 3" bar I had from another old project (folding tower base). There are 2x 1.5" yellow ratchet straps - one on each end - that anchors the bar to the forward bed anchors.
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The mount the winch is on was the last project I did. This is part of it - there is a double jointed hinge I made for it also for using with various 2" receivers. The water bottle has diesel in it for starting fires. It's not trucker tea... I use it to drain my water separator and instead of tossing it I use it for fire starter.
I tried to use gravity to my advantage by parking nose up hill. That helped - but trying to rock the welder past the tailgate joint and getting it up on to the ramps was still a chore.
Ground clamp and electrode holder. They are not in too bad of shape, I've welded with worse.
I will have to see how clean the tag gets. It doesn't look like there are too many scratches on it, either. The arrow is still in perfect mechanical shape.
Reply:Let me suggest you check with powder coaters in your area. The ones we restore are baked on zinc primed and powder coated. Very durable finish and much quicker and easier for us. Front and back panels and hood sections. If the nameplate doesn't clean up enough, replacements are available at Stumpf's Welding or Lincoln Control plates. Stumpf's will stamp your numbers in the replacement as well. Here is one of our restored units
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:I think the first thing to do is take the cover off, blow it out and plug it in to see how it welds. After you figure out how to weld 7018 grind out and redo the welds on your winch mount. They look a little suspect. $100 is a steal though. Might want to change to a Bernard twist style stinger but depends on your preference. Most people prefer them while pipe welders prefer the Tweco tong style stinger.
Reply:Absolutely, make sure its working properly before any cosmetics. I would bet its ok but you never knowSent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:
Originally Posted by Sparkie1957
Let me suggest you check with powder coaters in your area. The ones we restore are baked on zinc primed and powder coated. Very durable finish and much quicker and easier for us. Front and back panels and hood sections. If the nameplate doesn't clean up enough, replacements are available at Stumpf's Welding or Lincoln Control plates. Stumpf's will stamp your numbers in the replacement as well.
Reply:Cool beans Fly. Im a ham operator also. 73de WA9SWW Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:Update on today's work:First off - the welder welds. The diodes appear to be OK as it works in DC and it sounds fine. I did check over the electrical system before plugging it in. This included verifying the voltage setting (it was on 230/240), continuity check through the power lead/connector, and power switch. I also checked to see if there was any leakage/shorting between the primary and secondary windings. I didn't find anything obvious. I rocked the polarity switch for a few cycles to get the contacts wiping a bit. Then I plugged it in and put power to it. No smoke. However, the blower fan isn't working too well. I checked the voltage at the input to the fan and it was correct. I disassembled the fan and spun the shaft with a drill for a bit to try and loosen it up. Then I put it back together. It was working somewhat, but it is still stiff and is hard to spin up. The motor doesn't have any screws holding it together - it is rivited together = can't easily disassemble to clean/lube. What thoughts does everyone have on the blower motor? Is it worth taking apart? Or should I try to source a replacement? The pictures in this set here are from before "cleaning". Cleaning included blowing out with compressed air and scrubbing down with a wicker broom to knock some of the grime loose. I also swept out the bit of crap in the bottom of the cabinet that didn't get blown out with a shop vac. I have not washed it to really clean it, just an initial dust cleaning and inspection.
Reply:Pictures after the partial dusting/grime clean up with compressed air and broom:
Fan details:
Reply:Info on the blower motor:Blower motorUniversal Electric CoSer 3RF 10343RMod AB2R013M 8895-3. Lincoln part number 115V60HZ1550 RPMBall BearingsFront bearing is dry. KOYO 83A449Fasco makes replacement blower motor D1164. Available from Wal Mart online $68.6lSent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:Heres another motor they used. Your Emerson. The Fasco will replace both according to my notesEmersonF33HXHMC-3404 model1/20 HPM8895-5Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:A few other pictures:Quick test beads - 1/8" 6011 at about 112a . 1 AC, one DC+, one DC-. Steel is 3/4" thick.
Reply:Update for today - Blower motor has been resurrected. It works great now.First step was trying to figure out how the case opened up. The mounting bolts go all the way through both halves of the case. The long bolt pins were easy to get out with the nuts off. Getting the case apart was another matter. I used a small rotary tool with a cut off wheel to make a slot in the halves. Then I pried the halves apart with a screwdriver. I worked around the opening and then once it was about 1/8" I could get the blade of the screwdriver on one edge and tap it with a hammer. It took a while but it came apart.
There is a cord lock on the power cord - sort of like a grommet, but it locks the cord in place to keep it from pulling tension inside. It was a pain to get out and is what is holding the one half of the case here.
Cord lock grommet once removed.
Reply:Looks good. Ive never replaced a motor or bearings. If you get them apart and spin in a drill you can work oil into those scratchy bearings. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:Once the motor was apart I put some lube (FluidFilm) around the bearings and let it soak in. The rotor didn't want to separate from the shaft end of the case. I suspect the crud on the shaft locked the bearing on. I didnt want to go working it too hard, so I just added lube to that one from the shaft end then spun the rotor a bit to get the lube worked through the bearing. The rear bearing is the one that was locked up. It wasn't even able to spin at first. I left the lube alone to soak for a bit. Then I used a punch that was just about perfect sized for the shaft hole in the bearing as a tool to rotate it. It rotated and took about 2 turns to free up. When it did the lube around the center ring of the bearing turned red. I assume thats a mix of rust and dry/old lube. In any event, the bearing is free-spinning now. The down side right now is the bearing balls don't appear to be rolling very smooth (they are bumpy). We'll see what happens - they may round up over time.
Once the bearings were spinning free I wiped up the excess lube and put things back together. I tapped the cases closed a bit at first then I put the threaded pins back in and used the nuts to suck the cases together. Yes, they are backwards in this picture - I took them out and spun them back around to mount the motor.
While I was at it I put insulated spade connectors on the leads for the motor. There were some cheesy crimp connectors on there originally. The spades will make future work on it that much easier.
That's all for today. I am not too worried about the motor at this point. For as much as the welder will be used I may never have to work on it again. Though, if the lube dries up again then I know what to do. Replacing the bearings wouldn't be overly difficult, I don't think. The rivets would have to be removed to get things all the way apart, bearings replaced, then things riveted back together. That should be possible if anyone is reading this with a similar issue on their blower motor. I am not going to go that far with mine right now because it works with the original bearings fine after being lubed up. You just can't get to the rear bearing without cracking it all the way open as I did.Last edited by FlyFishn; 07-29-2020 at 07:26 PM.
Reply:Very cool project. Looks like she'll be back to building America in no time soon. One tip about those types of truck (or high vehicle) ramps - Ratchet them down from the bottom side of the ramp to the bumper/trailer hitch. This will put them in compression between the vehicle/trailer and ground, should prevent them from slipping and being so unstable/kicking out - especially if loading a powered vehicle.
Reply:Today's progress: I tested different abrasive disks for a 4.5" angle grinder from Harbor Freight. I have not used any of the sand paper type attachments (flap wheels or disk variants) before so I got a bunch to try. I also got some polycarbide disks (link below) to try. Grit much below 80 was taking off too much metal so I stopped there with the sand paper types and went to a 120 grit flap wheel for a while. That worked somewhat for a bit. Then I swapped to a polycarbide wheel. This works much better than anything else I have tried so far. It leaves a shiny finish on the metal underneath the rust and paint. The flap wheel leaves a smear on the metal in comparison. https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...eel-94017.html
I did find a couple dings on the top of the cabinet. I will try to tap those out also. I am not overly concerned with them, but if I am repainting it anyway then now is the time. Plus that will help to get the metal clean in the spots where the dings are by leveling those spots back out. This evening I got a jug of Acetone. I was using brake cleaner to get the grime off the panels but I was already low and killed the bottle. I am hoping Acetone does pretty much the same thing. Though, what I don't like about that type of cleaner is that it evaporates very quickly. That is the task for tomorrow - to do some more cleaning. We'll see about sanding off paint. I do think I want to open up the entire inside to clean the components at least. When I pull the transformer and choke (the lifting ring bar is welded to both) that will give me access to the bottom panel. It only makes sense to go through the whole thing at this point. As to how to go about a new paint job - I haven't crossed that bridge yet. I have had some suggestions for having things powder coated. I think that is a good idea. However, what I don't think I want to do is have the inside of the panels and interior parts painted. There are 2 information panels/schematic on the door to the wiring access that I want to preserve. I am not sure if that is possible during powder coating.Last edited by FlyFishn; 07-30-2020 at 08:41 PM.
Reply:If you go with powder coat the paper schematics will have to go. I think its a good trade off but thats your call. Is the transformer bolted or welded to the bottom panel. Older ones were bolted, newer ones welded Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:
Originally Posted by Sparkie1957
If you go with powder coat the paper schematics will have to go. I think it’s a good trade off but that’s your call. Is the transformer bolted or welded to the bottom panel. Older ones were bolted, newer ones welded
Reply:Sounds like a plan. Not sure on those schematics. If you can find another copy stick it on. Or take a picture of it and print a copy. Take your time on pulling the transformer off the base. Not sure how the fan housing all ties it. Ive never pulled one that far down Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:Last picture in post 15 with the fan - the stand the fan motor is mounted to is welded to the bottom of the cabinet. By the way, the bottom of the cabinet is a lot thicker than the sides. The panel that the fan spins inside the hole in is not held in by much. It is sitting in finger slots on the bottom case and the cowl that ducts the blower through the transformer is about all that is holding that panel. I imagine once the straps are disconnected for the "wiring" and the bolts are out for the transformer to the base all of that will lift right out. I am not sure if I want to pull the panel off the transformer before or after pulling the transformer assembly from the base. We'll see.
Reply:You could always get it painted with urethane paint like Endura if you want to save the labels on the inside. I think an automotive paint would be a good option too. Maybe even clear coat the labels. I'd try to keep the labels if it was mine. Keep in mind you bought it to use not as a show piece but it could be a show piece too.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Welder Dave
Keep in mind you bought it to use not as a show piece but it could be a show piece too.
Reply:I agree. I want them to work good but also it doesnt hurt they look as good as possible as well. They are worth the effort. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:Paint in blue and you'll really mess with everyone.
Nothin wrong with wanting to have your gear looking good
I used automotive paint on mine like Dave suggested. Im too cheap to have it powder coated.
Last edited by Lis2323; 07-31-2020 at 04:06 PM.:
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Nothin’ wrong with wanting to have your gear looking good
I used automotive paint on mine like Dave suggested. I’m too cheap to have it powder coated.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Welder Dave
The bolt on the adjustment wheel is wrong. Lowers the value by at least 50%. How embarrassing. Where'd you pick up a round top in Canada? Canadian models were always flat tops as far as I know.
Reply:Todays work:I got the rest of the main components and body panels broken down, labels off, etc. I did put the bottom panel and transformer + choke stack back on the cart so I could get it back in the garage, but I only put 2 bolts in.Once things were apart I tried using Acetone to clean with but it made my shop towels disintegrate. So I stopped with the cleaning and just worked on breaking things down more. Then I made a trip to NAPA to get some better cleaner. What I ended up with was Royal Purple. This stuff works fairly well.I am trying to figure out a direction to go with paint. In the mean time - I have a lot of cleaning to do. Then once I get past the cleaning I will work on paint removal of the parts I need to remove the paint on. My guess is - if the weather cooperates - I still have a week's worth of work to do before painting. To pull the transformer + choke stack (welded to the lifting eye bar) I used a ladder and electric winch. That is my go-to hoisting set up, as janky as it might look. I use all kinds of ladders in all kinds of configurations for moving heavy stuff. Most of the time I use ratchet straps to lash things together, but this set up didn't need any. It was a simple straight A-frame with a center hoisting position on the top.I used an impact wrench to knock the bolts loose. The cart is held on from 4 bolts accessed underneath. These bolts are threaded in to the base body panel. This seems odd to me, the body panel doesn't seem that thick - although it is thicker than the side panels. Then the transformer is bolted down to the base body panel with another 4 bolts from the top down. None of the bolts were too stuck - the impact wrench made quick work out of them.
Here are some parts after scrubbing down with Royal Purple. Note the fan blade. The crank knob is loaded with surface rust so it needs a total scrape-down and re-paint. The square panel is the wiring access panel. This is going to be taken down to bare metal, also, and repainted. That is the part with the two diagrams on the other side.
Reply:Looks like you could use a fresh coat of "Glyptal"Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:What is Glyptal? I see it is "paint" but not sure of what might be special about it. I can look it up later when I get home. I got a spray painting set from harbor freight today to possibly try. I had some things to return so I was over there anyway. I will track down local powder coating to see what I can come up with. I am not sure the place I used before is still around. Not sure what to expect on availability/pricing but we'll see where things go. I wont get much work done today. Maybe more tomorrow. I did pick up more of the polycarbide wheels for the angle grinder also. That works the best of everything I tried for paint removal.
Reply:Glyptal is the brown insulating paint that is used on the transformer Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:
Originally Posted by Sparkie1957
Glyptal is the brown insulating paint that is used on the transformer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by Sparkie1957
Glyptal is the brown insulating paint that is used on the transformer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by Sparkie1957
Glyptal is the brown insulating paint that is used on the transformer
Reply:I think you will be ok. It will make it look like it was when it dame come Cleveland if you spray it. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:What are the chances the paint under the polarity label here is the original shade of red? What I am curious about is if I take that to a paint place to color match - will that come out looking original in that color? Or has it faded etc?
Reply:Im guessing that the original color was called cinnamon by Lincoln. Im sure if you call Cleveland they can give you a paint code that an automotive paint dealer can cross over. The newer machines are a brighter red. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:At the end of the day I dont think its really going to matter. I understand youre being a little fussy now because you want to get the closest color. But just go for something as near as you can get by Eye. And when its all put together it will look perfect. Nobody is going to criticize you for having the wrong shade of red. Actually I love the idea of painting it Miller blue....LMAO.!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProMiller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:
Originally Posted by FlyFishn
What are the chances the paint under the polarity label here is the original shade of red? What I am curious about is if I take that to a paint place to color match - will that come out looking original in that color? Or has it faded etc?
Reply:
Originally Posted by shortfuse
If it's been under a metal label, you can bet it's not going to fade like the outside paint.
Reply:Progress today:I cleaned up the switches a bit. I did not polish them, just got most of the dust, grime, and crud cleaned up so they still look old and dirty but better than they did before. Today has been a busy day aside from working on the project, so not a whole lot of progress. My plan was to scrub down the leads, work clamp, and electrode clamp/stinger also. I did not have time to tackle all that. I will see about picking that up tomorrow.
Reply:I don't have much from the day before - other than driving around hells half acre to track down paint I didn't do anything on the project. Today's update:I got the main side/top panel down to bare metal, as best I can get it. I decided to take the inside down instead of leaving the original paint. There are some rusty spots on all the panels - including the baffle inside (rear of the transformer with the shroud that the fan blows through) - so those spots, at least, should be taken down to bare metal and primed. The vent fins were a royal PITA. I got most of the paint off with a die grinder and 2" sanding disk. I did try a wire wheel on the angle grinder also. This helped but still didn't get all the paint in spots. So I went to a rotary tool and ball stone. Then I went to a round pinhead diamond tool - really tiny.In any event, now I have a technique to do the rest of the vent fins when I get there - as well as some of the hard to reach areas like the inside corners of the fan motor mount. Lotsa work but things are coming along.
There were a few small dents in the top. I hammered those out and sanded them. The spots aren't 100% perfect, but I don't think that will matter too much in the end. I will be curious to see how the primer looks once I get there. I might thicken up the primer in that spot and sand it a bit more before the top coat. We'll see.
We had a quart of some red paint from a project that never was used. I tested it to see how it compared just for the heck of it, but as you can see it is too far off - too much "red".
Last edited by FlyFishn; 08-04-2020 at 09:53 PM.
Reply:Autobody has a type of thicker primer that can be sanded to fill minor imperfections. Spot putty also works. Doing all the work to take it apart and strip and getting the right paint color, etc. but a not fixing the dents. It will bug you for the rest of your life.
Reply:Today's work:Power went out so I started the day getting generator power going (portable unit, not a stand-by = have to drag out, set up, yada, yada, yada). The outage was not more than 3 hours. By the time I got power going it was already a couple hours in to the outage. Aside from that - I got more panels sanded down. I am not an expert on painting, but my philosophy on the inside is to address the rust with sanding down. Aside from the rust - sand only to smooth out the accumulation of grime (that doesn't scrub out with cleaner) or original paint drips. If there isn't any rust I don't see the point in taking all the paint off and getting down to bare metal when I am going to coat it all with a few coats of paint anyway. Rust, to me, is another story - that needs to go.You can see in the pictures where I sanded the insides. There is a lot more bare metal exposed than really was necessary as more paint was removed in areas around those I was addressing. Not a concern. I am sure someone might comment as to the "poor job" of removing paint and that I need to get down to bare metal, but I am not too worried about it on the inside. The vent fins were hard to sand down. They were also the most in-need of sanding grime off, aside from the bottoms of the insides of the panels where there was more rust than anywhere on the panels.Yes, I am wearing a respirator doing all this.
Reply:Looking good. You have more patience than me I freely admit. Thats why I take sheet metal to the powder coated for sandblasting, baked on primer and paint. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:My plan for getting paint didn't quite work out. What I am going to use is Rust-Oleum Farm & Implement paint in their "Massey Ferguson Red". It, as of right now, is only available in a spray/rattle can. The store I did find it at I thought had it in gallon sizes. The 3 sizes for that type of paint are spray can, quart, and gallon. However, that particular color is extremely difficult to get in a quart size. So I was going to "bite the bullet" and buy a whole gallon. However, when I got to the store it wasn't on the shelf.... After about 30-45 minutes with a guy at the store they were able to order it in a 2-pack of the quarts or a 2-pack of the gallons, not individual, and I would have to buy the whole pack. It has to do with the SDS (Safety Data Sheet) for the paint - each color and size has its' own SDS and because paint is hazmat the store has some kind of legal process held to the SDS info for the paints that they stock. So since they don't stock the color in the size they can't go through the insurance and legal hoops to get the SDS approved for that size/color paint for 1 can on the shelf.... Bureaucratic bull$hit. So I went to the local hardware store (again also, 2nd time for the day) and they can order the same paint in the same quart size quantity. They say they can do 1, but the guy that put my order in was a young guy that I don't think understood the bureaucratic logistics in stocking paint so I presume he is going to run in to the same problem. However, their price was a couple dollars less a quart so I told him what ever he has to do to get that paint in their next stock order to do it - regardless on whether or not I have to buy a 2 pack or if they can split it, I'll take the 2 pack if I have to. I just need the paint.... Anywho - actual progress today was hammering out a few more dents and sanding. The dents are all the same ones as before, I just wanted to clean them up a bit more. I am not making them absolutely perfect right now. Part of my philosophy is to coat the primer heavy in those spots then sand them to improve the finish some more. We'll see how it goes. The paint was thinned at first with a 4:1 ratio of paint:mineral spirits. So the first batch was 5oz. That is where you see the drips. I think the paint was too thick as the droplets weren't atomizing very well. Air pressure was at 25psi. Since this was my first go at pneumatic gun spraying I have a bit to learn. The 5oz mix wasn't enough to get through the 2 panels so I mixed up another half of it. Then I added an extra 1/2oz of mineral spirits to thin the paint some more. That would be a 2:1 ratio. The droplets came out smaller and there was less running. So I will try that again next round. Once perfect my spraying technique with the primer then I can move on to the top coat. However, that won't be until next week. The primer right now is mostly to protect the bare metal from oxidizing more while sitting and to experiment.
Last edited by FlyFishn; 08-06-2020 at 11:43 PM.
Reply:Have you tried tractor supply for paint?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProMiller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:I have painted them with Rustoleum red and used the Tractor Supply hardener. It turned out good, I just hate to paint. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
Reply:
Originally Posted by Sparkie1957
I have painted them with Rustoleum red and used the Tractor Supply hardener. It turned out good |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:17:00