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Hi guys, It's been awhile since I've posted and I apologise for that.Well I picked up a Miller Syncrowave 250 1991 Era and you guessed it I'm having some troubles with it. For now I have it hooked up to a 248 volt 50 amp circuit. when I throw the switch the fan comes on and the machine draws about 4 amps. There is no Power Factor Correction option on this machine. I know I need a 100 amp service for this to run properly but thought I'd give it a try to test it. When I try to Arc Weld with it nothing happens, no arc not even a spark.I pulled off the side cover and the jumpers are the correct terminals for 230 volts. o O-O O-O olooking around on the inside I can see that there was some wasp or Mud Dauber nests.I also found this wire off and dangling the number on it is Arrow Down 76 looking at the wiring diagram inside the cover it looks like it goes on FL1which is that bent terminal above it. The lower wire is Arrow down 77. I hooked the wire back up and still nothing. At this point I'm looking for direction as to what to try next.Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
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Doug Millermatic 200 Lincoln AC-225 Syncrowave 250
Reply:I checked the spark gap on the Hi Frequency points and the left one was set to .045 and the right was set to .059 I looked up the setting and set them to .008.
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Doug Millermatic 200 Lincoln AC-225 Syncrowave 250
Reply:Meanwhile I took the foot pedal apart and gave it a good cleaning.It wasn't too bad on the inside.
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Doug Millermatic 200 Lincoln AC-225 Syncrowave 250
Reply:Hi Doug. I have a Syncrowave 250, about the same age. I’m not a technician but probably one will chime in soon. I assume you are trying to TIG, not stick. Setting the points is good, but getting that wire connected correctly is important. You will get some good assistance on here to troubleshoot but you need to indicate all the switch setting. It could be you have a remote switch or something simple set wrong. I have a document with pictures showing default settings for steel and aluminum. If you want it I will try to get it to you. It was posted on an old thread. It is helpful for a quick reference without reading the whole manual. Edit- added link: post 6 here https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...d-help-with-HFThe picture with pointers looks odd on my iPad, it is rotated 90*. You can still read the switch settings in chart below. Maybe picture will look right on your device. Be sure you get a copy of manual at Millerwelds.com. Looking forward to seeing your machine working!Last edited by wb4rt; 02-24-2021 at 08:43 PM.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by Doug_
Hi guys, It's been awhile since I've posted and I apologise for that.Well I picked up a Miller Syncrowave 250 1991 Era and you guessed it I'm having some troubles with it. For now I have it hooked up to a 248 volt 50 amp circuit. when I throw the switch the fan comes on and the machine draws about 4 amps. There is no Power Factor Correction option on this machine. I know I need a 100 amp service for this to run properly but thought I'd give it a try to test it. When I try to Arc Weld with it nothing happens, no arc not even a spark.I pulled off the side cover and the jumpers are the correct terminals for 230 volts. o O-O O-O olooking around on the inside I can see that there was some wasp or Mud Dauber nests.I also found this wire off and dangling the number on it is Arrow Down 76 looking at the wiring diagram inside the cover it looks like it goes on FL1which is that bent terminal above it. The lower wire is Arrow down 77. I hooked the wire back up and still nothing. At this point I'm looking for direction as to what to try next.Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
Reply:I just checked the manual wiring diagram and the wire I had fall off was down arrow 77, which shows as negative. Up arrow 76 is the positive lead.I just finished going through a similar vintage Sync 250 today and will be selling it soon...I think it's a 1989 model (definitely still has the shunt), so most things should be the same if you want me to check something for you. They don't last long, so let me know!Does the HF fire and the gas solenoid click when you press the pedal?Last edited by G-ManBart; 02-24-2021 at 09:27 PM.Check out my bench vise website: http://mivise.comMiller Syncrowave 250DXMillermatic 350P with XR AlumaProMiller Regency 200 with 22A feeder and Spoolmatic 3Hobart Champion EliteEverlast PowerTig 210EXT
Reply:
Originally Posted by wb4rt
Hi Doug. I have a Syncrowave 250, about the same age. Im not a technician but probably one will chime in soon. I assume you are trying to TIG, not stick. Setting the points is good, but getting that wire connected correctly is important. You will get some good assistance on here to troubleshoot but you need to indicate all the switch setting. It could be you have a remote switch or something simple set wrong. I have a document with pictures showing default settings for steel and aluminum. If you want it I will try to get it to you. It was posted on an old thread. It is helpful for a quick reference without reading the whole manual. Edit- added link: post 6 here https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...d-help-with-HFThe picture with pointers looks odd on my iPad, it is rotated 90*. You can still read the switch settings in chart below. Maybe picture will look right on your device. Be sure you get a copy of manual at Millerwelds.com. Looking forward to seeing your machine working!
Reply:
Originally Posted by G-ManBart
The wires coming off the silver filter (FL1) go to the shunt which is the aluminum bar below the fan motor. It will have red insulators on either end that stand out. One wire from the filter goes to each end of the shunt. If one of those wires is off, the welder will either weld minimum or maximum current, but nothing in between. If the other wire is off, I'm pretty sure the welder won't produce an arc at all. I had one where one of the wires fell off at the shunt end, and it would weld minimum or maximum, but nothing in between. I replaced it, but noticed Miller didn't secure it with a nut...it was like it was soldered in place. I checked the other end and that one fell off in my hand. I put nuts on both and everything was fine.It may be just the picture, but the terminal on the filter looks like it may have melted, rather than just bent....hard to know for sure. If that's damaged I wouldn't expect the machine to weld.I'm sure one of the pros will show up with more info, but that's at least something to check into a bit.I have run about 15 different Syncrowave 250 and 250DX on a 40 amp breaker without issue...at least up to 250A output or so. I eventually bumped it up to a 60A breaker because I had the wire size to support it, but you should have zero problems on a 50A breaker.
Reply:
Originally Posted by G-ManBart
I just finished going through a similar vintage Sync 250 today and will be selling it soon...I think it's a 1989 model (definitely still has the shunt), so most things should be the same if you want me to check something for you. They don't last long, so let me know!
Reply:For stick - Amp Adjust should be Panel, Arc Control s/b Up, and HF Off. Just check to be sure.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Here's the technical manual which should help immensely with the trouble shooting. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46...owave-250.htmlMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:
Originally Posted by wb4rt
For stick - Amp Adjust should be Panel, Arc Control s/b Up, and HF Off. Just check to be sure.
Reply:BTW Doug, I have run my Syncrowave on a 50 amp circuit for 7 years without any problems. Of course as a hobbiest I don’t need full power.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by wb4rt
BTW Doug, I have run my Syncrowave on a 50 amp circuit for 7 years without any problems. Of course as a hobbiest I don’t need full power.
Reply:replace all the toggle switches on the front panel if you can. Old switches cause problems.
Reply:
Originally Posted by ccawgc
replace all the toggle switches on the front panel if you can. Old switches cause problems.
Reply:Back with an update.I ordered the new switches and spark gap points.I installed them and now have a working welder.Thanks for everyone's help.Doug Millermatic 200 Lincoln AC-225 Syncrowave 250
Reply:
Originally Posted by Doug_
Back with an update.I ordered the new switches and spark gap points.I installed them and now have a working welder.Thanks for everyone's help. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:16:57