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Hi, I have searched and read a number of posts but to no avail. I am building some handrails for a handicap friend out of 1 1/2" gal. pipe. I need to miter some of the joints, some in the same plane and some at 90 deg. to each other. I read a post sometime ago on this subject but can find it again. I have a horizontal band saw to work with. Can anyone help me with this or point me to a post that can?Hobart 190 migLincoln/Century 140 migLincoln buzz boxChicago Electric cutoff sawLotos LTP5000D Plasma CutterHMC Swivel head band saw
Reply:If I have several to do, then I clamp a stop on the exit fence. cut at 15 degrees. There are charts on this forum. The photo of the saw cut is the second side after rotation the tube 180.

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Last edited by tapwelder; 12-30-2016 at 02:47 PM.
Reply:Miter or notch?Google either one and add on "template". I've seen some websites where you input the dimensions then you can print a template, cut along the line, wrap around the tube, trace and cut.
Reply:others who do pipe may no more, but i can tell you what i've done. i bought some templates, took them to a kinkos photo machine and w/ a calculator and enlarged them by setting the photo machine to the proper % to where the length of the template. you get the proper legth by mult pie x od dia. i then cut the paper template out, and traced it onto some thin flexible plastic that are advertising signs for marlboro that they hang on conveneince stores when they have cigeratte sales. make nice templates. any descentwelding store sells small templates for 1.5 pipe., they come in a packof the smaller sizes for 20 bucks or less.. ideally its not really a straight cut like your bandsaw is doing to make a 90 when doing pipe, as flat plate would be, but being the pipe is so small, you can sorta fuge/fill/grind, get away w/ it by using your bandsaw.one time i had about a 14 to 16" drainage pipe i had to 45 down the side of a hill. i went to school, and my teacher helped me make a template for it. there are formulas (which i don't remeber at all), but to my memory, we made it out of thin sheetmetal. we took a staight edge, mand about a 4 foot long line. then we took a big compass and drew multiple arc in equal small incruments throughout the line, each time moving to pivot pointer to a reference point of the previos scribe. then when finally done w/ compass, it was connect the dots by freehand w/ a pencil. then take tin snips and cut on the line. it made a perfect template. i use holesaws for 1.5 pipe for saddles, but i got a bench mill and a vise to do it w/Last edited by 123weld; 12-30-2016 at 11:53 PM.
Reply:

Originally Posted by b-dog

Miter or notch?Google either one and add on "template". I've seen some websites where you input the dimensions then you can print a template, cut along the line, wrap around the tube, trace and cut.
Reply:The proper way to do it is with a pipe wrap and a book that shows the math. I recommend either the Pipefitter's Blue Book or the IPT Pipe Trades Manual. The math to lay out pipe joints is not something that can be adequately relayed via online text.2000 Lincoln SA-2501974 Miller Dial-Arc 250
Reply:MiterHobart 190 migLincoln/Century 140 migLincoln buzz boxChicago Electric cutoff sawLotos LTP5000D Plasma CutterHMC Swivel head band saw
Reply:If you really want to miter them, clamp one in the saw for the first miter, mark the top center of the pipe with a Curve-O-Mark, cut, move pipe for next cut, re center with your original punch mark and cut again.
Reply:

Originally Posted by cabranch47

Hi, I have searched and read a number of posts but to no avail. I am building some handrails for a handicap friend out of 1 1/2" gal. pipe. I need to miter some of the joints, some in the same plane and some at 90 deg. to each other. I read a post sometime ago on this subject but can find it again. I have a horizontal band saw to work with. Can anyone help me with this or point me to a post that can?
Reply:Thanks you all for your replies. You gave me some ideas. I fabricated a "poor man's" Curve-o-Mark that worked well for me. I welded a 2" X 2" angle, about 10" long, perpendicular to a 6" 2 X 2 angle (like a cross). I chain clamped the 6" piece to the furthermost end of pipe, put the pipe in my saw vise and placed a magnetic torpedo level on the 10" piece and leveled it. Made the cut and then rotated the pipe and plumbed it with the level. That gave me a 90 deg. cut from the original one. I guess you could do any degree with a magnetic adjustable protractor. Make sure that the contraption will clear any stands or other objects when mounted to the pipe as you pass it through the saw vise to the next cut. This assumes that your saw table and pipe are level to begin with. Hope this might help someone in the future, worked fine for me.Hobart 190 migLincoln/Century 140 migLincoln buzz boxChicago Electric cutoff sawLotos LTP5000D Plasma CutterHMC Swivel head band saw
Reply:For anybody else who might get here, you might try this paper template generator.... it does a whole lot of things besides simple tube to tube joints, its free, and reasonably easy to use. And if there is some feature that is needed I can be convinced to upgrade the software. I added the airframe cluster joint because the build your own aircraft guys were so insistent.
Reply:What's all the fuss just use a curv o mark contour marker.
Reply:Thanks for all of your replies. I was not very clear in my original post. I wanted to cut a 45 deg miter on one end of the pipe and another at 90 deg. to that on the other end of the pipe. Both cuts would not be on the same end.Hobart 190 migLincoln/Century 140 migLincoln buzz boxChicago Electric cutoff sawLotos LTP5000D Plasma CutterHMC Swivel head band saw
Reply:So you are trying to determine how to orient the opposite ends of the tubing? Quick way is to clamp or tack weld the tubing to a matching length of channel. Then you can rotate it in the vice at 90 degree increments.
Reply:

Originally Posted by tapwelder

So you are trying to determine how to orient the opposite ends of the tubing? Quick way is to clamp or tack weld the tubing to a matching length of channel. Then you can rotate it in the vice at 90 degree increments.
Reply:http://metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgiI use this site all the time for coping pipe. it lets you choose fit up angle, pipe dia, and wall thickness. Then you can print off a pdf template that is to scale. worked great for a stainless heat exchanger i had to build.
Reply:your a little confusing what you are shooting for but if your doing miter a on each end and need the center plane there is a few ways to do it if only once tack a small piece a flat bar and lay a level on it before you start either cut if doing multiples a curvomark pipe centerDo not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:You could also use a "plane of bend bracket" to offset your cuts. Line up your first cut and zero out an angle finder, then for your second miter, just rotate the pipe until the angle finder reads 90. You would leave the angle finder and clamp attached to the pipe when lining up your second cut. I know I have used them for bending tube and they work great for keeping bends in the same plane or offsetting bends if needed.http://www.homemadetools.net/uploads...d-bracket.jpeg |
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