Help - gate latches and hinges

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I give up on picture orientation. I am going to build this gate in a breezeway. The walls are stucco over stud wall construction. One problem is the studs are not lined up from one side to the other - about 4” difference. I can deal with that. My questions right now are the hinges and latch. I cannot use a cane to make one gate fixed so the latch has to keep the 2 gates in place. I’m thinking a slide bolt that can push from either side into a long enough tube to secure or else a latch that rotates up and down 90*. Second question is what are best hinges that only let the gates swing one way. I think weld-on barrel hinges are probably the best. I guess I would either use stops on one side or else offset the hinges. Any guidance, recommendations, or links to best products are very much appreciated.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:here you go Burt  

you could sink a metal post on each end and not attach to wall, then gate can be where you want it...  I think a long slide bolt or tube would be your best option fir securing both gates with some type lock at one endnice design BTWjohn
Reply:Gate latches come in a thousand varieties and it really depends on how much work you want to put in to them.  A bit of hand-forged goodness goes a long way!This one, for example, could be redesigned so there's a handle and catch on both sides, thus trapping both sides of the gate with a very solid mechanism.  Scale it to fit your uprights and it could be welded up from scraps you already have collecting dust in a corner somewhere!

The easiest way to make hinges that only rotate one way is to weld stops right onto the barrels.  Once you have everything tacked onto the gates, weld a short stub of 1/4x1/2 onto the lower barrel so it's flush with the joint between the barrels.  Then weld a similar stub onto the upper barrel so it hangs down a bit and will run into the stub on the lower barrel when the gate's at the position you want.  Make sense?
Reply:To make latching easier make the gates self closing. Then just use weld on barrel hinges. I use 1/4” spacers in between the tubes when welding on the hinges. When you weld the hinge onto the outside of the joint, weld a spacer on the opposite side (but just to one piece of the tube. This will allow the gate to close only to a certain point and then stop. Then you add springs or closers and they will want to stay that way.
Reply:this is not an area that I have a lot of expertise in.I do gates that shift with the soil conditions.  Agricultural gates.  Not tied to a solid building, although buildings do shift.If I were to redesign any of those gates, I'd try to have some means to adjust the hinges.  The only problem is...........if you have an adjustable hinge, it generally isn't as rigid as a plain ol' hinge.  I'm thinking you'd give up a lot with an adjustable hinge, unless it was secured to the building with wedges under the fasteners.
Reply:HD adjustable hinges I was advised of by one of my welding teachers who owned a fence building business. Search:- KCHEX (2X) Heavy Duty Gate Hinges - 3/4" J-Bolt Adjustable 900lb Capacity Ball Bearing

Actually, they are shown upside down.There is a greasable ball bearing inside, really smooth! You can make your own stop mechanism, I suppose.I used two different sizes here (as sets of two), one in the driveway, and one on the side yard. Both are buttery smooth.Last edited by tanglediver; 04-20-2021 at 02:18 AM.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:If you put in adjustable hinges I can guarantee you will be back to adjust them. Measure accurately, build stout, use good install methods, and be done with it.
Reply:Looking at Vaughn’s latch in post #3, I think I will build a similar latch that swings up and down so it extends far enough to secure the double gates together. I need a couple of small rosettes, buttons, or medallions for the latch. I thought I would weld a 1/2” round spacer behind the rosette for the latch to go over. Any body have a source for these? I have searched online but not found what I’m looking for. I saw some wrought iron cabinet knobs similar to what I need but not sure they would be sturdy enough. See link. https://www.houseofantiquehardware.c...-inch-diameterAny ideas are appreciated.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:

Originally Posted by wb4rt

Looking at Vaughn’s latch in post #3, I think I will build a similar latch that swings up and down so it extends far enough to secure the double gates together. I need a couple of small rosettes, buttons, or medallions for the latch. I thought I would weld a 1/2” round spacer behind the rosette for the latch to go over. Any body have a source for these? I have searched online but not found what I’m looking for. I saw some wrought iron cabinet knobs similar to what I need but not sure they would be sturdy enough. Any ideas are appreciated.
Reply:This video shows a neat idea for a center-pass latch, and lots of variation on the idea.  Maybe not perfect for your design, but something to maybe build from......
Reply:I cannot see why it would be a good idea to put a stop on a hinge.  Or a slide latch between two gate where one is not dogged.  ???  Seem like bad designs unless purely decorative.
Reply:Burt, You may have struggled some with picture orientation, but your gate design looks great. Hope all works out.GeezerPower Mig 255C185 TIGBlue 175 MIGRanger 8 Kohler 20HP1974 5K Lincoln/Wisconsin Powered (Cherry)Victor/Harris O/AK 487 Spool Gun
Reply:I build my hinges from scratch Most it faster and fits the gate.On large gates I Pillow block bearing. Gates and top hung doors use tubing. For four point support doors I use pressform or channel this so can flex with building. Dave

Originally Posted by geezer

Burt, You may have struggled some with picture orientation, but your gate design looks great. Hope all works out.
Reply:Well, after a lot of work and considerable head-scratching here is where I am on the gates. I used barrel hinges and built a homemade latch from VaughnT’s inspiration. I built bolt-on posts out of 3/4”x2” cold roll. They turned out pretty nice. I’ll post a picture of them after installation. Still some grinding and clean up before taking to my powder coater on Monday.

Closeup of latch.

Sorry for the messy background but these guys are too heavy to move for a photo shoot. Now, looking for thoughts on the mounting. The steel posts will rest on concrete and be lag bolted to the stud walls. I opened one side wall and put in a double stud firmly attached between 2 studs to line up with opposite wall. The opposite post will be lag bolted to a single stud. I cannot reinforce that stud. The gates each weigh around 65 pounds. I’m a little concerned about the single stud. Since the actual weight is carried to the concrete by the post, it seems to me I should be okay. I’m thinking of using construction adhesive behind the posts to the wall to minimize any play from the gates swinging. Any encouragement or suggestions appreciated.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Looks good.
Reply:Not sure if you are finished welding.  However,  those tight joint around your rings will be difficult to coat well.  Welding and wrapping the top and bottom of the joint will be worth it.  Also, solid weld the collar top and bottom.If those are cast iron collars, then there is great potential for them to fall down.  Unless there is a stop weld underneath. Strike a couple with a hammer to test.Will you be able to bolt to the concrete?  It would resist some twisting that may occurs and provide some additional support to the single stud side.
Reply:Thanks for the reply Tapwelder. All good recommendations. I think a plate anchored to concrete floor will greatly help minimize twisting.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:You may this type hook lock You buy housing that can be welded in doors and gates.https://www.amazon.com/Storefront-Mo...16213779&psc=1Dave

Originally Posted by wb4rt

Thanks for the reply Tapwelder. All good recommendations. I think a plate anchored to concrete floor will greatly help minimize twisting.
Reply:Update —-Installed the gates today. I was surprised and pleased how well they look and work. They meet with a consistent gap between them. The posts are very secure and I’m confident will hold the gates just fine. I took Tapwelder’s advice and added base plates to the posts. That was great advice.

Here is the latch I made. Customer really likes it.

Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Looks nice.  Since you have so much railing there,  a  good eye test is see if the pickets dance or make you dizzy as you look through all the railing and gate.  I they do then something is not plumb.  Yours do not dance.You did well.  The whole job looks good.Sometime I will walk around a railing with one eye closed, seeing visually hide one picket behind another.Last edited by tapwelder; 05-27-2021 at 10:14 PM.