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My compressor is 28-years old, and I'm getting a little nervous of the tank! Supposedly they only have a 20-year life expectancy. It is a vertical 80-gallon Ingersol-Rand. I'd like to stay with at least 80-gallon tank, but go with a horizontal one this time. I need 240-volt single phase. Of course I'd like the most CFM at the highest PSI . Any brands to stay away from? Been doing a little shopping and I see there is a new to me brand, Emax. Anybody have any experience with this brand? Thanks in advance!Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!
CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST
3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Perhaps I'm wrong, but I don't see how a co. can put a 20 yr life span on a tank if it's frequently and regularly drained. Perhaps it's a CYA deal. I've seen compressor tanks at businesses that are 50+ yrs old and still functioning. Having had a bad "experience" w/ a tank that wasn't drained on a regular basis, this has become my "pulpit". If a person sees rusty water draining out of a tank, then I'd say there is cause for concern and to start thinking on a new compressor/ or tank purchase. I have a 3 1/2 HP Craftsman 20 yrs old and have drained it regularly it's whole life and never seen rusty water come out of it. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong in thinking my tank is still safe after 20 yrs. Am I headed for another bad "experience"? MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I don't think you have much to worry aobut if you have taken care of the compressor during it's life. On the other hand, all you would need to do is replace the tank. You can swap the pump and motor over from the old one, right?
Originally Posted by SundownIIIDon't get me wrong. They are just as ill informed about politics as they are about welding, they just post more on that subject.
Reply:Mr CEP If You Would Give Me A Description Of Your Air Compressor - What Model And Serial Number I Have A Pretty Good Connection With IR - Will Check On Tank Specs. - Thanks
Reply:Yeah, just replace the tank... then you can cut up the old tank, likely discovering it was just fine
Use the old tank to make some neat things... fire-pit, barbeque or... how about a pressure-pot sand blaster!
Rick V
1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:
Originally Posted by jmtebbens
I don't think you have much to worry aobut if you have taken care of the compressor during it's life. On the other hand, all you would need to do is replace the tank. You can swap the pump and motor over from the old one, right?
Reply:Mr CEP That Tank Was Made For IR By A Tank Company In Indiana - Given The Age You Stated "28 Yrs. Old " I May Have Been The One That Welded The Comoressor Base On Tank - My Younger Days - That Why I Asked For A Model And Serial Number In Previous Post - Thanks
Reply:Just Remember The Companys Name - Check Tank Plate And See If It Says Brunner
Reply:I always drain the tank after every use. Never let it set with air in it over night. About 10-years ago I sanded the tank down and repainted it. The pump is starting to puke a little oil, and it's taking about 10 to 12-minutes to fill. From what I've seen on replacement tanks they're about 3/4 the price of a new compressor, and with the pump leaking oil why bother with a replacement tank. At my age, a new compressor will out live me anyway.
Model number: IR5T80V1W/STRSerial number: CV88084-0078Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!
CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST
3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Manchester makes good tanks if you decide to put a new tank on it. Old IR's were good compressors.Curtis and Saylor Beall are good compressors.
Reply:In my opinion, Champion and Quincy are the very top.Keep in mind, IR has box store quality and professional quality. I had an IR from a box store with a cheap shut off switch. The switch failed and the comp ran all weekend with the drain open. I returned it. PLEASE, do yourself a favor and have a quality power disconnect in line."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!
" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:See what it cost's for a hydrostatic test. Might be worth the price of addmission.AEAD 200LE, Lincoln precision tig 185, Millermatic 251, Spectrum 625 extreme, Victor torch , Smithy 1220LTD. and Do all C-4 band saw , Always adding.
Reply:Thanks For The Info CEP - You Have Probably Already Figured Out Tht Model Number 5HP-80Gal Vert. 1PH. With Starter ( I Think ) Where Is It Leahing Oil - What PSI Are You Running - As Far As Leaveing Air In Tank - Not A Problem - Open Drain In Bottom Of Tank Once A Week - For A Little - If You Get A Chance And Its Not To Much Trouble - Would Like To Know Model Number And Serial Number Off Compressor Name Plate - The Old Unit I Built Years Ago Has A 1978 Model Tank - 60 Gal Horz. - The Pump Frame Was Made In The Fourties - Last Year I Rebuilt Pump With Newer Top End - Still Useing Old Frame, Crank And Rods - I Give It A New Paint Job And Decals Going By The Model Number You Gave, Your Pump Is Probably What We Call A 242 Twin Cylinder - Two Stage I Like Seeing These Old Pumps Like Wise Old Welders - With A Little Care They Will Out Do The Person Useing Them - Thanks
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Reply:I rebuilt the engine in a plumbers pickup back in 1976. He had a Quincy compressor in the bed that he removed from a service station that was being demolished. I traded the engine work for the Quincy, and bought a used Wayne, horizontal tank from the local Petroleum equipment dealer for $25. The tank developed a pinhole by one of the legs about 20 years ago so I cut a third of the bottom radius out, minus a couple of 1" wide strips to keep the sides from springing out, and had a piece of 10 ga. plate rolled and lap welded in for a new bottom. That setup is now 36 years old and still going strong in my garage today. No telling how old it all was before I got it.HF Dual Mig 151 with Bluewelders and Galaxieman's modsHF Digital Plasma TorchHF Blue Flames Hood70's era Craftsman 230 stick welderVictor 100 OA
Reply:I didn't see any information on the pump, unless it's under the belt guard. The switch box says Furnas on it, but no information about the pump. I know the sight glass is leaking just a little, but looks like most of the oil is coming from under the pump. I'd have to remove the pump from the base to really see. Can't imagine a seal under there. Ever heard of Jenny compressors? What is a mass code fitting, and Mass code platform? http://www.wayfair.com/Jenny-Product...0-JXA1065.htmlDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!
CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST
3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Is Yours A V Twin ? - If So The Name Plate Should Have Been On Front Of Pump - About 3" Above Sight Glass - Oil Under Bottom Will Only Come From Two Places - Front Cover ( Frame End Cover ) Or Rear Seal Around Shaft As Unit Runs The Fan Action From Flywheel Blowes It Back Under Frame . Look At My Pic. - The Little Oblong Flat Center Of Cover Is Where It Should Have Been - Unless Someone Removed ? - If You See Four Small Rivit Holes In Cover - Plate Has Been Removed - As Unit Runs Any Oil Carryover From Pump Is Blown Into Tank - So Over Time It Will Coat Inside Of Tank - This Will Help With Rust - Some Milky Colored Water From Drain Will Show Oil In Tank - Unless You Are Getting Almost Stright Oil From Tank - Pump Rings Are Usually Good -
Reply:Here's a couple pictures of the pump.
Attached Images
Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!
CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST
3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Hey CEP, why not beg. borrow, buy one of those new inspecton cameras - the micro CCD camera and light on the end of a 3 ft flexcord with a 4 inch viewing screen. Go in through some of the tank connection fittings and have a look around - it might be just fine.Rick V
1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:I have a compressor question.I have an old craftsman vertical 60gallon 5 hp oilless compressor, circa 1985, its getting where it takes a long time to build up pressure, can those compressors be rebuilt?tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Mr CEP I Was Trying To Make Your Compressor Older Than It Is - I Remember That Model Now - IR No Longer Carries That Style Compressor - If My Memory Hasn't Completly Gone - I Think That Compressor Came From Italy - Your Pump Up Time I Belive You Stated In Early Post Was 10-12 Minutes - Thats Not To Bad For That Style Compressor - If This Unit Has Always Been Inside - From My Experence I Dont Belive Their Would Be A Problem With The Tank - The Compressor Is A Inline Two Cylinder - As Far As Oil Leak - Check Drain Screw At Bottom - I Belive They Had A Copper Washer On Them To Seal - Dont Over Tighten - The Bottom Line Is That Tank Would Probably Out Last Two Of Those Compressors
Reply:
Originally Posted by Renagade
The Bottom Line Is That Tank Would Probably Out Last Two Of Those Compressors
Reply:
Originally Posted by CEP
You really think so? Maybe I need to quit thinking about it so much. A tech at IR told me that pump should fill the tank in 5 to 7-minutes tops. I have the compressor in an insulated room attached to the outside of my shop, I don't go in there until I've bled the lines inside the shop. Maybe I should line the shop wall with HY-80 plate so when the tanks blows it won't get me.
Reply:Mr CEP I'll Leave You With One Finale Note - The Decision Is Your's - Just Adding My .02¢ Worth From Being Around Air Compressors All My Life - I Will Retract One Statement Made Earler About Welding The Base On This Tank - They Were Received At IR With The Base Already Welded On - ThanksPS - The Metal Plate Wouldn't Do Any Good - I've Seen The Results Of A Tank Exploding - Most Of The Time It's From Excessive Oil In Tank After An Extended Run And Tank Got Hot Enough To Ignite Oil -
Reply:Borrow/ buy a borescope and inspect the inside of the tank. I just did mine bout a month ago due to rusty water comming out when i drained it. Bought the borescope from harbor freight, checked my tank and then took it back and got my $$ back.Last edited by Malave16; 01-14-2012 at 11:08 PM.
Reply:Seems as the general consensus is, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I'll let it go a few years and see what happens. Thanks everybody for your opinion!
Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!
CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST
3 SA-200sVantage 400
If nothing else, just get a Hydrostatic test done to help put your mind at ease about whether it will hold up for a few more years. It will cost less if you can take it to their shop.
Reply:It's easy enough to do the hydrotest yourself if you get a hand pump. Simply fill the tank to the top with water, pressurize to 150% of MAWP (max allowable working pressure). If the tank is rated for 150 psi, test to 225. If it's rated for 200 psi, test to 300. Do this once every 5 years.
Reply:The tank should have stamped onto it somewhere, the original hydrostatic test pressure, and the date and maybe a serial number.Just hydrostatic test it to the same original test pressure.Cheers, Tony._________________________________Transmig 310 + Argoshield LightOxy acetyleneOxy propanePrehistoric stick welder_________________________________
Reply:They aren't stamped with the hydro test pressure, they're stamped with the MAWP, You have to exceed the MAWP to qualify a tank in a hydro test.
Reply:The Curtis setup I have is from 1945. I just rebuilt the compressor a couple years ago and an inspection of the tank with a remote camera looked good. Mild pitting, no flaking or other obvious defects. The compressor spins slow, cranks out around 18cfm all day long. I'm thrilled.
Reply:if you know someone that will do a UT, or digital thickness test, you could do that. Or go the inspection camera route, but if it is rusted on the I.D., you will see rust but not know how much wall is there.Explosion is not likely unless there is trapped oil or some kind of gas in there. Its not like its a compressed gas cylinder under 2k p.s.i., So if a hole were to blowout, it would scare you and blow dust and maybe some moisture around, but would be no different than you opening a .25" drain valve to bleed it out anyway.Miller Bobcat 225Miller Diversion 180 - sold searching for a DynastyHobart TigmateMillermatic Challenger 172
Reply:
Originally Posted by 76GMC1500
It's easy enough to do the hydrotest yourself if you get a hand pump. Simply fill the tank to the top with water, pressurize to 150% of MAWP (max allowable working pressure). If the tank is rated for 150 psi, test to 225. If it's rated for 200 psi, test to 300. Do this once every 5 years.
Reply:Any hand pump with a "gauge you can trust" is all you need.I use style D at work. It's cheesy but gets the job done. You don't need a big pump even to do big tanks. If it takes any significant volume of water to generate pressure it's because you have air in the tank and need to do a better job of bleeding it because air will make the tank go bang if it does rupture. I've hydro tested 100+ gallon air tanks while still installed in the system. You just close all valves, pull the plug on top, and stick a garden hose in there. When you're done, open the drain valve.
Reply:I fully agree with the previous posters urging you to have the tank hydrotested. I've used several salvaged compressor tanks of unknown provenance and had each hydrotested by my fire extinguisher service shop. Cost $15, and well worth the peace of mind. They couldn't handle one larger tank and sent me to a competitor who could handle it.However, I'm not too confident of the 150% of maximum service pressure mentioned by 76GMC1500. I think the standard multiplier used for fire extinguishers is larger, and that's what I had them test to. I don't actually remember the proof pressure since the last one I had done was a decade or more ago.The home brew test might be better than nothing and, I think, better than a visual inspection. However, I think a proper hydrotest involves measurement of the amount of swelling AND RECOVERY of the tank at the proof pressure. This involves submerging the tank in a larger vessel of water and measuring the amount of water displaced while pressurizing the tank under test. (Not absolutely sure about this.)For the moderate cost of a test, I'd leave it to the professionals and get their recommendation regarding safety factor. But, to repeat myself, if you have any doubts at all, the peace of mind is well worth the cost.There have been discussions previously here in which people say don't worry, a deteriorated tank will just spring a leak, not burst. I don't buy it. At least, I'm not going to bet my life on it. In the army helicopter repair shop I worked in 50 years ago, a guy who had apparently been sleeping in repair school tried to take the dings out of a 20-gallon, light-gauge aluminum fuel tank off an H-13 by pressurizing it with a shop air hose. No one, including the perp, knew what pressure the tank blew at, but it split full length down one side. We all thought a bomb had gone off. Sent him to the hospital for a few days. Don't gamble.awright
Reply:
Originally Posted by gcnettl
if you know someone that will do a UT, or digital thickness test, you could do that. Or go the inspection camera route, but if it is rusted on the I.D., you will see rust but not know how much wall is there.Explosion is not likely unless there is trapped oil or some kind of gas in there. Its not like its a compressed gas cylinder under 2k p.s.i., So if a hole were to blowout, it would scare you and blow dust and maybe some moisture around, but would be no different than you opening a .25" drain valve to bleed it out anyway.
Reply:
Originally Posted by awright
However, I think a proper hydrotest involves measurement of the amount of swelling AND RECOVERY of the tank at the proof pressure. This involves submerging the tank in a larger vessel of water and measuring the amount of water displaced while pressurizing the tank under test. (Not absolutely sure about this.)
Reply:
Originally Posted by Stick-man
This is what I thought when I was learning about hydro on scuba cylinders. But then, when 76GMC1500 posted, I thought maybe with the large tanks like 120 gallons, they just use a pump. I will have to call my Champion dealer and ask how they go about it. If it's only like $25.00 or so, I think it would be worth me having it done, even if I have to remove the motor and pump.
Reply:Mr CEP I Run Your Model # And Serial Number Through Our Service Dept This Morning - You Have What Was Know To Us As A CA5 Pump - From Italy - The Tank Is Either A Brunner ( IN ) Or Buckeye ( OH ) - Your Unit Was Package Here August 1988 ( we get tank already welded ) And Just Add Componets To It To Make Package - In 1991 We Discontinue This Model - As Far As Oil Leak - Their Is A Bottom Plate On Compressor That May Have Worked Loose - Our Service Dept. Didn't Think The Tank Would Be A Problem - They Commended You On The Apperance Of Your Unit For Its Age - Best Of Luck With Your Unit Maybe It Will Run Another 20 Yrs - Thanks
Reply:Dam I would have swore I bought that thing in 1984! See what old age will do to you?
Thank you so very much for all your help!
Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!
CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST
3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Remember, scuba tanks are aluminum and high pressure. They have a much different DOT standard. ASME pressure vessels such as air tanks are steel simply have to hold 150% of MAWP without rupture. This isn't some redneck test, this is how tanks are qualified. It is safe... if you don't have any large pockets of air. If the tank ruptures, it's going to make some noise. You may get wet. You aren't going to get hurt. Just use a few feet of hose as a safety precaution.
Reply:Note also:Commercial use (business, shop, whatever) may trigger/require certain other inspection(s) for pressure vessels, depending on your locale and the pressure vessel requirments in that locale.Examples:http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/pressurevessels/index.htmlhttp://www.nclabor.com/boiler/boiler_faq2.htmhttp://www.dlt.ri.gov/occusafe/pdfs/boilerregs.pdf The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:
Originally Posted by 76GMC1500
Remember, scuba tanks are aluminum and high pressure.
Reply:
Originally Posted by CEP
Here's a couple pictures of the pump.
Reply:.editedLast edited by walker; 02-15-2021 at 08:59 PM.
Reply:Compressor oil is very common and easy to find, home depot, ace, any place selling compressors, Northern tool, might have the filter element also. Belt remove and carry to auto zombie. Go behind the counter find the size. Buy one size smaller, one exact and one larger, 2 will go back. The stretch in the belt will/could throw you, the reason for 3 belts.Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:16:03