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Now and then Someone brings in a shaft to be welded up. I have a Lincoln IdealArc 250/300. I also have a Hobart 140 MIG. Would it be recommended to weld up the shafts using the Mig? I can preheat, not having flux would make a better job of it. Recommendations?
Reply:Subd to see what the experts recommend.Last edited by N2 Welding; 07-23-2021 at 02:26 AM.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:I would think that would work, our line boring guy uses mig to build the bores back up before he cuts them, he uses a machine made by an outfit called climax to do it....pretty neat setup. The wire comes through a tube and rolls around the bore makin a nice pretty weld thats easy to cut. He cuts the work hardness out of it first then preheats it. I think its .035 wire he uses and I know its a 75/25 mix he uses. Ive done the bores and pins for the buckets with 7018 but it takes longer and doesnt do as nice a job, but Ive never done a long shaft, a machine shop hand would probly know more about itMaybe this helps maybe not Im no expert at it
Reply:If you want to see someone good at building up/line boring shafts and bores and who knows his s**t, look up Cutting Edge Engineering on youtube..........Mike
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Originally Posted by mcostello
Now and then Someone brings in a shaft to be welded up. I have a Lincoln IdealArc 250/300. I also have a Hobart 140 MIG. Would it be recommended to weld up the shafts using the Mig? I can preheat, not having flux would make a better job of it. Recommendations?
Reply:I built up some worn very old Wheelhorse garden tractor spindles using .023 S6 and my Lincoln SP135. That part worked great, it was building a jig to mount them in the lathe to turn them back down that was fun.
Reply:For building up worn shaft, I'd favor TIG.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:It can be done and I have done it a lot. Usually its just an area where a bearing spun or possibly a seal.The trick to keep it straight is to weld paralell to the axis of the shaft. Start at 12 o clock Then 6 then 9 and 3. Once you have the first four welds Then just start welding next to them this time 12,3,6,9 and keep going until you are done. If it gets RED hot or too hot to control, stop and wait a bit but dont let it get cold. Keeping it hot until its done helps anneal any hard spots. It can be done with Mig Tig or Stick.Lincolin Power Wave 450, Lincoln Powermig 255, Lincoln Pro Mig 140, Lincoln Squarewave Tig 275, Miller Big 40 G(with Hobart Hefty suitcase), Thermal Arc 95S and Esab PCM875 in an already full machine shop.
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This was a stainless shaft about 3" Rush after hours emergency The world is ending we need it now!Lincolin Power Wave 450, Lincoln Powermig 255, Lincoln Pro Mig 140, Lincoln Squarewave Tig 275, Miller Big 40 G(with Hobart Hefty suitcase), Thermal Arc 95S and Esab PCM875 in an already full machine shop.
Reply:Depending on how bad the shaft is worn and the material, it is often called metalizing. I don't know what the maximum thickness they can build up is but if not too deep, they machine the surface to build up clean, maybe a little rough, and then heat the shaft red hot while spinning in a lathe, Then they use an oxy/fuel torch(spray torch) with a powered metal of appropriate hardness to build up the shaft. I had the shaft in the rotary swing cylinder in my backhoe built up this way. Cost about $300cad but saved me $2000 or more on a new shaft if one was even available. For a general shaft MIG should be fine as long as you preheat if it's a large shaft. Would be nice if you could spin it while welding. Mig is generally a little harder than stick. Depending on the shaft you might consider using build up rod that is harder and doesn't mushroom. It will need the proper tooling for machining to size. There's a video on here showing metalizing/spray welding a shaft back to size.
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Originally Posted by Welder Dave
Depending on how bad the shaft is worn and the material, it is often called metalizing. I don't know what the maximum thickness they can build up is but if not too deep, they machine the surface to build up clean, maybe a little rough, and then heat the shaft red hot while spinning in a lathe, Then they use an oxy/fuel torch(spray torch) with a powered metal of appropriate hardness to build up the shaft. I had the shaft in the rotary swing cylinder in my backhoe built up this way. Cost about $300cad but saved me $2000 or more on a new shaft if one was even available. For a general shaft MIG should be fine as long as you preheat if it's a large shaft. Would be nice if you could spin it while welding. Mig is generally a little harder than stick. Depending on the shaft you might consider using build up rod that is harder and doesn't mushroom. It will need the proper tooling for machining to size. There's a video on here showing metalizing/spray welding a shaft back to size.
Reply:I was wondering if a Hobart 140 had enough guts for the job. Sorta like the threads about welding a trailer with My new 5 amp flashlight battery MIG machiner.
Reply:Our Boiler shop used a submerged arc unit to repair badly worn mill trunnions, the machine was set up on an old lathe , it laid down wire under a powdered flux that made a beautiful weld to machine, it seems like the wire was about 1/16 diameter, flux flowed & dropped onto the weld and fell off as it cooled, they caught the flux & screened the powder back out of the slag & reused it.IMPEACH BIDEN!NRA LIFE MEMBERUNITWELD 175 AMP 3 IN1 DCMIDSTATES 300 AMP AC MACHINEGOD HELP AMERICA!Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.We didnt pass it to our children in the bloodstream".RONALD REAGAN
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Originally Posted by old miner called Pop
I would think that would work, our line boring guy uses mig to build the bores back up before he cuts them, he uses a machine made by an outfit called climax to do it....pretty neat setup. The wire comes through a tube and rolls around the bore makin a nice pretty weld thats easy to cut. He cuts the work hardness out of it first then preheats it. I think its .035 wire he uses and I know its a 75/25 mix he uses. Ive done the bores and pins for the buckets with 7018 but it takes longer and doesnt do as nice a job, but Ive never done a long shaft, a machine shop hand would probly know more about itMaybe this helps maybe not Im no expert at it
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Originally Posted by CAVEMANN
Our Boiler shop used a submerged arc unit to repair badly worn mill trunnions, the machine was set up on an old lathe , it laid down wire under a powdered flux that made a beautiful weld to machine, it seems like the wire was about 1/16 diameter, flux flowed & dropped onto the weld and fell off as it cooled, they caught the flux & screened the powder back out of the slag & reused it.
Reply:Sub-Arc flux can be ground and reused. Never sweep it up with a corn broom though because they can't get the broom remnants separated from the flux. If you ever want to get flashed really good, see a sub-arc weld run out of flux. If you ever want a nasty repair, have a sub-arc burn through on a shell for a tank or vessel. You can't see if it's about to burn through because of the flux. By the time you get it stopped there's about a 2 inch nasty gap to repair. Even worse is if it has to pass x-ray.Last edited by Welder Dave; 07-24-2021 at 09:43 PM.
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Originally Posted by mcostello
I was wondering if a Hobart 140 had enough guts for the job. Sorta like the threads about welding a trailer with My new 5 amp flashlight battery MIG machiner.
Reply:This is primarly for small shafts around 1" --1 1/4". A friend bought in one that was 1 7/16", could not be taken apart and was lagged and the plant was down etc, etc. My stick welds are going have to get better or use the Mig which is easier for Me to see.
Reply:That mig you have will be fine. You don't need or want much heat. I would run beads parallel to the shaft. Run a bead, turn 180 degrees and run another. Keep alternating sides to help keep the shaft straight. After it cools and before machining check and adjust accordingly for straightness.
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Originally Posted by mrmikey
If you want to see someone good at building up/line boring shafts and bores and who knows his s**t, look up Cutting Edge Engineering on youtube..........Mike
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Originally Posted by M J D
That mig you have will be fine. You don't need or want much heat. I would run beads parallel to the shaft. Run a bead, turn 180 degrees and run another. Keep alternating sides to help keep the shaft straight. After it cools and before machining check and adjust accordingly for straightness.
Reply:Heck yeah, he knows how to get it done
Reply:You may need to straighten after welding. Most of shaft I have welded I to straighten after welding. Some times I just new shaft. Dave
Originally Posted by mcostello
Now and then Someone brings in a shaft to be welded up. I have a Lincoln IdealArc 250/300. I also have a Hobart 140 MIG. Would it be recommended to weld up the shafts using the Mig? I can preheat, not having flux would make a better job of it. Recommendations?
Reply:
Originally Posted by propanehotrod
It can be done and I have done it a lot. Usually its just an area where a bearing spun or possibly a seal.The trick to keep it straight is to weld paralell to the axis of the shaft. Start at 12 o clock Then 6 then 9 and 3. Once you have the first four welds Then just start welding next to them this time 12,3,6,9 and keep going until you are done. If it gets RED hot or too hot to control, stop and wait a bit but dont let it get cold. Keeping it hot until its done helps anneal any hard spots. It can be done with Mig Tig or Stick. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:15:56