Aead200le

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I just bought an AEAD200LE, serial JE820487 and it's missing the ignition on/off switch. I'm having a hard time finding out which manual to download with this serial number and also which switch I need,  part number or even another switch that would work. If anyone can help me out I would definitely appreciate it. After I get that switch I should be able to get the machine running. Then I'll need the fine amperage control, if anyone knows where to find one at a good price that would be awesome.  ThanksAirco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:maybe duaneb55 will be along and I'm sure he can help you find a manual and maybe even where to get the switch.Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Try this https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow.../O411N_MIL.pdfParts list is at the bottom.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Poleframer

Try this https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow.../O411N_MIL.pdfParts list is at the bottom.
Reply:

Originally Posted by mla2ofus

maybe duaneb55 will be along and I'm sure he can help you find a manual and maybe even where to get the switch.
Reply:Look through this it’s a old one. https://www.dropbox.com/s/2s33g6k6s3...8_mil.pdf?dl=0
Reply:Here's a few pictures

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Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:Few more

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Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:That machine looks about the same year as mine, only yours looks alot better. Hope you get it running, they're really good stick welding machines. S1 is a standard toggle switch you should be able to get at a local hardware / electrical supply store(sometimes HD,Lowes). It is a 3 Pole double throw switch, not the most common type of toggle switch. If you look at circuit diagram B-088 562 you will see a long dashed line showing how the contacts are hooked up. Each has an associated wire Number/letter , there are 3 switches (3pole) shown a s  S1. The 30 Ohm 100 watt isn't a standard one found at my electronics distributor so you might have to find one at someone like miller4less. I would clean/lube it up, and ohm it out to see if its good.Best of luck with your projectAirco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:

Originally Posted by albrightree

That machine looks about the same year as mine, only yours looks alot better. Hope you get it running, they're really good stick welding machines. S1 is a standard toggle switch you should be able to get at a local hardware / electrical supply store(sometimes HD,Lowes). It is a 3 Pole double throw switch, not the most common type of toggle switch. If you look at circuit diagram B-088 562 you will see a long dashed line showing how the contacts are hooked up. Each has an associated wire Number/letter , there are 3 switches (3pole) shown a s  S1. The 30 Ohm 100 watt isn't a standard one found at my electronics distributor so you might have to find one at someone like miller4less. I would clean/lube it up, and ohm it out to see if its good.Best of luck with your project
Reply:The wires that aren't connected to a switch are #31, #30, >30,>27. If that helps.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:And the schematics from the machine. It looks to me like I need switch "s2"



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Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:Hey Squirmy, good to see your still alive and welding. Switch S2 looks like a double pole double throw on my monitor.  A three pole would work but doesn't look necessary. Guitar repair shops should have Carling switches. If not, here's a link to help locate one. The ST series are better for humidity and the H series come in three pole if needed. Good luck with it. https://www.carlingtech.com/toggle-switches
Reply:

Originally Posted by Insaneride

Hey Squirmy, good to see your still alive and welding. Switch S2 looks like a double pole double throw on my monitor.  A three pole would work but doesn't look necessary. Guitar repair shops should have Carling switches. If not, here's a link to help locate one. The ST series are better for humidity and the H series come in three pole if needed. Good luck with it. https://www.carlingtech.com/toggle-switches
Reply:

Originally Posted by SquirmyPug

The wires that aren't connected to a switch are #31, #30, >30,>27. If that helps.
Reply:If you jumper 30 and 31 you will have ignition. Distributor power. Wire 27 looks like battery charge.  Put a volt meter on that wire and verify its getting 14 volts. It looks like you need it for exciter also? It may show weird voltage if regulator shorted/opened.  Make sure not to short any wires jumping it. And use a charged battery.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Insaneride

If you jumper 30 and 31 you will have ignition. Distributor power. Wire 27 looks like battery charge.  Put a volt meter on that wire and verify its getting 14 volts. It looks like you need it for exciter also? It may show weird voltage if regulator shorted/opened.  Make sure not to short any wires jumping it. And use a charged battery.
Reply:Sorry about that, you are correct. S1 is the power and weld , S2 is on/off. On the drawing S1 shows on top but the line shows it going to the left in the panel, but my drawing looks like its been re copied a few times. I wonder if that schematic on you machine is a replacement, its in beautiful shape.

Wow $120 is a pretty good price hope you get it running.Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:

Originally Posted by albrightree

Sorry about that, you are correct. S1 is the power and weld , S2 is on/off. On the drawing S1 shows on top but the line shows it going to the left in the panel, but my drawing looks like its been re copied a few times. I wonder if that schematic on you machine is a replacement, its in beautiful shape.

Wow $120 is a pretty good price hope you get it running.
Reply:So  I've  been  slowly  working  on  the  machine,  new spark  plugs,  air  filter,  oil  and  filter, fuel lines and filter.. the usual stuff. I could hear the starter spinning but it sounds like just an electric motor with no load so I figured that the bendix gear was stuck in place.  Removed the sheet metal until I could get to the starter and checked...definitely stuck.    So I used some wd to free it and get it moving easily and thought that would be it.. nope. It seems that the plastic gears inside the starter have stripped so I ordered a new starter and it should be here Tuesday. After that I should be able to find out if the machine will start


Is there anything in the generator/ welder that I need to check before trying to get the machine running? I can't think of anything and didn't see anything that might be a problem but I've never owned a generator before. Thanks for the help guys

Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:You might want to check for rodent damage/nests inside the welder. Thats usually the biggest problem with machines that sit a long time. Checking to make sure the brushes move freely, and that the rotor is not too corroded might be a good idea also. RegardsAirco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:

Originally Posted by albrightree

You might want to check for rodent damage/nests inside the welder. Thats usually the biggest problem with machines that sit a long time. Checking to make sure the brushes move freely, and that the rotor is not too corroded might be a good idea also. Regards
Reply:After replacing a few parts I got the machine running last night

It's not idling up, generating power or welding but I haven't checked anything yet so hopefully it won't take much to get it working. Here's a short video of a cold start the morning after getting it running Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:Almost there, fingers crossed. Will it weld/generate ?  I hope so.Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:Next update- Got the auto idle working last night

When set to weld mode the machine will auto idle or high idle depending on where I have the switch. At high idle the 100hz receptacle reads about 95hz. It works as is for the grinder and makes it idle up.    When the weld/ power switch is set to power I'm not getting voltage to the receptacles. I'm not sure if the switch is only working for some of the terminals or possibly something else going on. Was also thinking that setting the weld mode receptacle to 100hz by adjusting the idle up a little might let the machine make voltage with power mode. Got to do some more testingHere's the next video just showing it auto idling.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIGForgive me about the switch. It should have been DPST and I said DPDT.  On the bright side, it will work but two off positions. If your getting grinder power ( ac100hz) then the charging system must be working and it looks like a like that's how the exciter works from schematic.  I have no experience with millers but they have good schematics.  The S1 switch 3 pole single throw does three things.  Auto idle, auxiliary power and weld power.  You know the auto idle and auxiliary works.  I would verify the third pole of S1 is making connection for weld.  If it's good then I would trace schematic to the next solid state device and or check continuity in suspect coils.  Hope that helps.  Have you emailed Duane55? He would know common failures.EditEdit edit It looks like S1 need to be switched to weld from power to weld.  Makes wiring S1 slightly more complicated but I think try switching aux power to weld for welding.  I don't know but that's what it looks like in schematic

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Last edited by Insaneride; 05-28-2021 at 01:28 PM.
Reply:I forgot to ask... So the fine adjustment rheostat has a bad spot about 95%. Am I able to jump the terminals so I get the 100% needed for generating power just to see if the generator works? I don't know why I didn't think of that before but it could be the last problem to get the machine working.I would hate to buy a new rheostat and set it to 100% then have it burn the wire like the old one. But... It's only money right? Insane,  I'll reply to you in a little bit when I have some more time.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:Got another update.    I fought with the carburetor multiple times trying to get the machine running like it should and finally got a smooth idle

After that I had to figure out why it wasn't generating power..   I thought it had to do with the idle speed or a switch but started looking and found that the resistor tap bands were bad.  One rusted completely in half and the other was in bad shape.  Cut them off and had to improvise to check if the machine was going to work.  .. So here's what I did



It worked!!

  So now I need to find the tap clamps for the resistors which I can't seem to find anywhere...   Then it's just fine adjusting everything to get voltage and hz and idles where they need to be.   Right now it's making 122v at 63hz at the receptacles. 95hz at the weld 100hz receptacle.   And the battery seemed to be charging a bit low at 12.8-9vI really appreciate the help guys


Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:Anyone know where I can get the resistor tap clamp or have a part number for it? I can't find it anywhere onlineAirco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:Those clamps shouldn't be difficult to fabricate. Use some sheet copper and they won't rust away again. Hobby lobby would be the first place to look.Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I was thinking about making my own if I have to. I would rather use original just to make it easy but either way I'll figure something outAirco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:Other Miller machines have similar resisters so clamps shouldn't be hard to get. I had a Trailblazer 55D with similar resistors.
Reply:For anyone who needs the band/clamp/lug for the resistors part number Miller (052 782). I believe this is the correct part. I'll know in a few days when I get them.  Ohmite part number #2125E

Last edited by SquirmyPug; 06-04-2021 at 10:17 AM.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:

Originally Posted by SquirmyPug

For anyone who needs the band/clamp/lug for the resistors part number Miller (052 782). I believe this is the correct part. I'll know in a few days when I get them.  Ohmite part number


Reply:Does one of those resistors control battery charge voltage??Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:

Originally Posted by Insaneride

Thanks for the link squirmy, I was going to suggest making them from nickle shims and brass screws/nuts. So is it running and welding now with temporary copper taps?  The charging voltage sounded low from you previous post. It must be charging if your getting aux power. That's the way it looks from schematics. I don't know tho
Reply:

Originally Posted by mla2ofus

Does one of those resistors control battery charge voltage??
Reply:Adjusting the position of the straps on those resistors changes the voltage output, one is for weld output, the other is for the 120 volt output.Before you do that, make sure your rpm's are set. Best to use a meter with frequency, at generating speed with no load you want 62 hz on your 120 outlets, and on the 100 hz outlet, 100 hz will be 3000 rmps for weld speed.I dont know offhand which resistor is which, should be easy to see as you adjust each. You want 80 volts open circuit on the AC weld output, and 120 on the outlets.Only takes minor adjustment, so stay close to where the straps look like they were originally positioned.Last edited by Poleframer; 06-05-2021 at 12:02 PM.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Poleframer

Adjusting the position of the straps on those resistors changes the voltage output, one is for weld output, the other is for the 120 volt output.Before you do that, make sure your rpm's are set. Best to use a meter with frequency, at generating speed with no load you want 62 hz on your 120 outlets, and on the 100 hz outlet, 100 hz will be 3000 rmps for weld speed.I dont know offhand which resistor is which, should be easy to see as you adjust each. You want 80 volts open circuit on the AC weld output, and 120 on the outlets.Only takes minor adjustment, so stay close to where the straps look like they were originally positioned.