09 wrangler one ton build

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After finding a pair of 14 bolt axles, for cheap, I was planning a Dana 60/14 bolt build.But, a buddy/Benefactor NIXED that idea.So now its a 14 bolt rear/steering 14 bolt frontThis build will be documented,  on several forums.budget build to start, but with future upgrades in mindTo start, disk brake conversion, Detroit rear locker, Yukon Zip Locker front(selectable air locker), 5.13 gears, shave kit for both, and factory style 4 link suspension.Future= selectable rear locker, double triangulated 4 link rear, triangulated 4 link front, and coil over shocks
Reply:We're gonna need to see some picsMiller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:I'm gonna, and here are some pics are two different animals, I'll wait for the picture show.
Reply:As soon as axles are confirmed as mine, pics will come.This project is insane, and will probably kill me.
Reply:I'm assuming you can get reverse cut gears for at 14 bolt? I know you can for a Dana 60/70... My only gripe with a 14 bolt is you can't remove the yoke without risking your pinion preload, Dana is a much better setup in that sense IMO.Bruce
Reply:

Originally Posted by Bruce Avison

I'm assuming you can get reverse cut gears for at 14 bolt? I know you can for a Dana 60/70... My only gripe with a 14 bolt is you can't remove the yoke without risking your pinion preload, Dana is a much better setup in that sense IMO.Bruce
Reply:Chevy kingpin 60 is going to be the donor axle, but I am leaning towards a balljoint axle. For ease of trail repairs.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Fnord5

Chevy kingpin 60 is going to be the donor axle, but I am leaning towards a balljoint axle. For ease of trail repairs.
Reply:Not going with axle tech portal 14 bolts?Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Budget build. LOL.
Reply:Pictures please......What size tire are you going to run???Is this going to be a trailer queen?Suspension???


Reply:

Originally Posted by Billdacat

Pictures please......What size tire are you going to run???Is this going to be a trailer queen?Suspension???


Reply:I got my front axle finally.This will be my front, I'll cut it down for the short side, inner sleeve and an extension for the long side. Pics to come as I tear it down and start work.


Reply:14FF in the front?  If so that's awesome overkill for a Jeep. I like it.
Reply:want to buy an ARB locker for the 14 bolt never used $600.. =D
Reply:

Originally Posted by socoj2

want to buy an ARB locker for the 14 bolt never used $600.. =D
Reply:arb-rd114
Reply:If we can work out a payment plan, I'll take it.
Reply:Hmn....pinion appears to possibly be a bit stronger.

Ring looks different too....


Reply:Empty, ready for a deep clean then cutting.


Reply:No new pictures, but some updates.Picked up a set of kingpin knuckles/hubs/spindles for the front, need a total rebuild(expected) but should work just fine.They came off a 1988 Chevy 3500 dump truck.Sourced my rear axle from a buddy, military 14 bolt, 4.56 gears, Detroit locker, disk brake conversion, great lakes offroad  diff cover(1/2 thick ring, 3/8 cover) and a smaller style truss.Only 5000 miles on it.Need to re-tube the front housing, and start fabricating my control arms.Also doing a 4" front, 8" rear stretch, with all new control arm joints.
Reply:How do you keep the oil in a steering conversion?  I know most steering axles like the Dana 60 have oil seals inboard of the tubes but the 14 bolt being a rear only has the seals on the ends.  The 14-bolt is a bad *** axle after you trim the excessive overhang off the bottom.  I really don't know why Chevy went to the US Gear 11.5 inch on their diesel trucks (same as Dodge which nobody should emulate) because the 14-bolt is basically the strongest there is.  How big of a tire do you plan to run?  37 inch seems to be the best for most every situation road and trail.  My friends and I built a rockin' 4Runner on 33's that could do basically every trail Hollister Hills had to offer short of jungle trail and that was on 33" tires.  The key is flex but keep it low.  We started at 6 inches of lift but ended up dropping the rear to 4 with the 53" Chevy leaf springs.Last edited by 76GMC1500; 05-22-2014 at 04:03 AM.
Reply:You add seals at the pumpkin, its not perfect, it will leak a little from what I hear.As I'm set up now, with 32's I can do the whole Rubicon fairly easily, and I'm unlocked.  I'm not adding any lift(5" now) just going long arm Now, and coilovers in the futureThe plan is 37's for now,  maybe 40-42's in the future.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Fnord5

You add seals at the pumpkin, its not perfect, it will leak a little from what I hear.As I'm set up now, with 32's I can do the whole Rubicon fairly easily, and I'm unlocked.  I'm not adding any lift(5" now) just going long arm Now, and coilovers in the futureThe plan is 37's for now,  maybe 40-42's in the future.
Reply:deleatedLast edited by Billdacat; 05-22-2014 at 11:58 AM.Definitely vented. So to do the control arms, I'll set the jeep at ride height, and line up the pinion angle with the axle on jack stands, tack on the control arm mounts in the general ballpark. The control arms will have built in adjustment.Then burn them on, and install the axle to find caster, tack the inner C's on and have a pro weld them up for me.
Reply:Picked up my rear today. Going to shave it, add more trussing, and then control arm brackets.  Pretty much built already, 4,56 gears and a Detroit locker, disk brake conversion, pinion guard and a great lakes off road diff cover.Buddy was sick of me not picking it up and having it in his yard, so he knocked $300 off if I got it today.  It was a bargain and a half.


Reply:After a rock bouncing, crazy trip through the Rubicon, time to fast track this build.12" coilovers ordered for the front,  rears on hold till finances catch up Shaving the front only for now, till I regear and throw an air locker in back.Got a quote for a re-tube, going with .500 wall DOM, the guy machines the inside of the tubes on the housing side to fit standard Dana 60 inner axle seals. Need to order the shave kit, new diff cover, cut it myself and have the guy doing the re-tube weld it up for me(I don't want to mess with welding Cast Iron.He also makes custom axle shafts in house. Cryo-treated and everything.Don't mind dropping some coin on these shafts as I'll never break them with my 208 horsepower.
Reply:Are you going to re-tube the rear axle???  Are you keeping it as a full-float??      What is your time frame for completion?    If you can, please post up pictures of the re-tubing of the front axles??
Reply:Keeping the rear as is full float, 67.5 wms to wms.Front is going to be 69.5 wms to wms.If the guy doing the work will let me, and if I have the time, I'll take lots of pics.Hope to have it done in a year or less.
Reply:Rear coilovers ordered. Aside from control arms, brake lines, and a couple brackets, the rear is ready to go.  Driveshaft will have to be ordered after everything else is done.Going with 12" travel, 2.5" body, remote reservoir coilovers, dual rate springs(don't know what strength yet)
Reply:Small update.Shave kit and diff cover are here, picked up a set of stainless polished mile marker lockout hubs, the ALL METAL ones (warn hubs have a plastic collar inside and are 4x as expensive)Have all 4 coilovers, 12" travel with remote resivoir, 2.5" body front, 2" body rear.Going to start with 200/250 rate springs, as a buddy has them and likes the way they work.Need to order my inner "C's", kingpin rebuild kits,  tone rings, caliper brackets, calipers and rotors,and all the bearings, then I can get the front assembled.(minus steering components)Slowly coming together.Need to figure where exactly I need the center section, so I can get the re-tube done. I may have to modify my oil pan to clear.
Reply:Ka-Ching$$$$$$$
Reply:Surprisingly, not into it for too much so far. I've gotten some screaming deals on parts, as a lot are used and/or sourced from friends. Only about $2600 so far.
Reply:1600 more in parts for the front, not including steering linkage, or labor for the shave kit and re-tube. Have to do custom axle shafts as well, cryo treated chromoly,
Reply:Just ordered 16 Metalcloak Duroflex joints, local company to me, I know the owner and a couple employees. Awesome company and pretty innovative too.


Reply:New plans.Ditching the factory 4 link setup in favor of a centered 3 link rear, and driver offset 3 link front.I was looking at a kit for my rear coilovers, and decided I hated how they did it (designed to avoid cutting into the body, at the expense of strength)So I'm going to chop into my poor jeep and do this correctly..Similar to this, but more towards the outside of the tub.


Reply:This thread is a yawner...Seriously lacking in pics and updates. 10 months along on the timeline so far and NO pics or discussion involving actual fab, just what parts you bought. Hell, even bolt on parts need bolted on and deserve pictorials, all the welding and fab involved scream for it.I'm glad you into it and enjoy doing it, but share more than facebook type updates in a fab oriented forum. I'm CERTAIN you had issues sorting out parts selection and fab design and actual fab up, so where is all that?....Do I sound like an azz? sorry if I do..
Reply:Not at all.   And nothing in this build is going to be bolt on.The reason for lacking pictures is that I have just been collecting parts, and refining my build plans.Once I start the actual build, I'll have plenty of pictures.Unless you'd like pictures of parts...Size difference between stock axle, and 14 bolt.


Reply:$291 out the door for a 23 foot stick of 2.25 OD, .375 wall DOM.Should be fine for control arms if I stick to fire roads....


Reply:Some more parts.Getting closer starting surgery on my jeep!




Reply:The joints:



Reply:Bought a beater car so I can start this build.Started the teardown today.Going to cut all the old brackets off the frame tomorrow.



Reply:Finished up cutting off the old brackets and cleaning the frame.


Reply:My comp cut layout,  couldn't cut due to rain.



Reply:Break in the weather, cut one side,  not complete, but got that first "real cut" out of the way.


Reply:Cleared off the rear axle tubes of the old brackets,  changed the mini truss for a different one with a pinion guard bridge.

MM211, maxed out, 220v, 030 wire and c25.  Beveled the truss to get nearly full penetration.


Reply:Got my upper, axle side link mounted.Ruff Stuff 1" bore 1.25" shank heim, 3/4 misalignment spacers.030 wire, 6&90 on my MM 211.




Reply:Looking good bud!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Nice..... Still following along.  I know that it takes a **** load of time and money to do it right.  I have a 4" lift going on my wife rig this weekend (if I can find the time) that I have been acquiring parts for over the last four years.