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I'm having a hard time coming up with a efficient method of alternating and spacing twisted and solid 1/2"x1/2" square pickets for my ornamental jobs. Finally learing Cad and it is helping, but I'm still having problems obtaining proper spacing (to code) and proper alternating of these pickets so that the twisted ones land next to the solid 1" posts. What is your guys methods? I know I've read Tapwelder uses the trim method. So at the ends, the picket might be closer to the post. But what about the alternation of the pickets? Add or subtract a additional post so I get the odd number of pickets I need in between each set of posts? The other thread on the lighting spacing that was recent has been a big help, but looking for specifics on ornamental iron railings. I have used the pre punched channel, and now trying it without prepunched to see if that makes it easier on me in case I need to change the on center measurements.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel
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Reply:If you're referring to trying to get the twisted pickets to land next to the posts all the time, then each panel will have an odd number of pickets, and you need to shrink the spacing to accommodate that if need be. Example, if your making a panel that is 48" between the posts, then code would be 10 pickets spaced at 4.4" on center which would leave you with a 3.9" gap. But that panel would have a twisted picket next to one post and a straight one next to the other post, so all you have to do is add on more picket So a 48" panel with 11 pickets (which is what you would need) the pickets would be 4.04" on center which would give you a 3.54" gap between pickets. It's an easy formula to do.I punch my own channel, so I do whatever spacing works. If you buy pre-punched channel you will not be able to do what you want to do, you can trim the ends, (I used to do this BTW) but you can't alter the spacing which is exactly what you need to do in order to get twisted pickets on either side of the post. Also if the spacing works out to be an odd number of pickets, then you could trim the ends no problem, but when you run into a panel that has an even number that's where you're going to have a problem.Last edited by MetalMan23; 04-03-2017 at 11:10 AM.Reason: I
http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:Hello? Anyone there?
http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:Try this on line calculator http://www.blocklayer.com/centersleveleng.aspx ...................MIke
Reply:What I did was make a 8' and 12' alum flatbar with marks on it at 4" then every 4 1/2" after that. That makes a standard layout if every 4". Then draw out your frame since that can't change and place this flat bar on the layout. That will tell you where the first or last picket will fall at 4" spacing. From there you can calculate the gap remaining and shrink each picket to fit. I made up many charts to do this for me. For example, if you had 12 pickets and the last picket is 1 1/2" away from the post, if you change all 12 to 3 15/16" then the last picket will gain 3/4" now at 2 1/4"On the flat bar, mark on it where your pickets are, I messed up a couple times as I placed the pickets on the wrong side of the marks. Just put an X on it like marking a stud.Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Reply:If your space is 48" you can divide it by 4.5 inches to see what you get first. That gives you 10.666, you need 10 bars and 11 spaces. I twist 3/8" bar so it is one half inch as as well as the half inch square bars. Ten half inch bars equals 5 inches, so you subract 5 inches from 48 leaving 43 inches. Then you divice 43 inches by 11 spaces that gives you 3.909090909090909 inches. That is your first mark to the edge of the first bar. But in a calculator you just add 3.909090909090909 plus 0.5 inches that equals 4.409090909090909 and save it to memory. Then just keep adding that value from memory recall to the total. Measuring from the right hand side of the opening keep putting the total you get as a mark on the bar and an "X" to the right of the mark. Your last mark will be 3.909090909090909 from the left hand side of your opening. I learned that while working as a cabinet maker in the seventies for shelving and dividers. Sincerely, William McCormickLast edited by William McCormick; 04-27-2018 at 06:17 AM.If I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
Reply:
Originally Posted by William McCormick
If your space is 48" you can divide it by 4.5 inches to see what you get first. That gives you 10.666, you need 10 bars and 11 spaces. I twist 3/8" bar so it is one half inch as as well as the half inch square bars. Ten half inch bars equals 5 inches, so you subract 5 inches from 48 leaving 43 inches. Then you divice 43 inches by 11 spaces that gives you 3.909090909090909 inches. That is your first mark to the edge of the first bar. But in a calculator you just add 3.909090909090909 plus 0.5 inches that equals 4.409090909090909 and save it to memory. Then just keep adding that value from memory recall to the total. Measuring from the right hand side of the opening keep putting the total you get as a mark on the bar and an "X" to the right of the mark. Your last mark will be 3.909090909090909 from the left hand side of your opening. I learned that while working as a cabinet maker in the seventies for shelving and dividers. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:
Originally Posted by William McCormick
If your space is 48" you can divide it by 4.5 inches to see what you get first. That gives you 10.666, you need 10 bars and 11 spaces. I twist 3/8" bar so it is one half inch as as well as the half inch square bars. Ten half inch bars equals 5 inches, so you subract 5 inches from 48 leaving 43 inches. Then you divice 43 inches by 11 spaces that gives you 3.909090909090909 inches. That is your first mark to the edge of the first bar. But in a calculator you just add 3.909090909090909 plus 0.5 inches that equals 4.409090909090909 and save it to memory. Then just keep adding that value from memory recall to the total. Measuring from the right hand side of the opening keep putting the total you get as a mark on the bar and an "X" to the right of the mark. Your last mark will be 3.909090909090909 from the left hand side of your opening. I learned that while working as a cabinet maker in the seventies for shelving and dividers. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:So then he would need eleven bars and twelve spaces. The bars would be 5.5 inches wide and leave 42.5 inches to divide by twelve giving spaces of 3.541666666666667 wide. The space and one picket is 4.041666666666667, I measure from the right of the space to be filled with pickets and put that mark and then an "X" to the right of the mark. On a tape measure in inches, I call that 4 1/16" scant and put a line short of the 4 1/16" mark. The next picket mark is at 8.083333333333334" I call that 6 1/16" Full. Every six one-hundredths of an inch equals 1/16" approximately. So I favor the line a little one way for the other. The next mark is at 12.125000000000001" or 12 1/8"After a while, it gets crazy easy to see it. Sincerely, William McCormickIf I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
Reply:Here in New York and Long Island we have such small stoops and short runs around corners that trying to make it come out like that is not practicle. In the end the bosses usually want the least amount of bars and as close to 4" as possible, no customer ever said anything. Sincerely, William McCormickIf I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:14:37