complete noob

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Hello there everyone. First time every posting on a welding forum, and if there is a term that describes someone who knows less then a newbie, that would fit me. Well, I'll give a brief background of me, then ask a couple questions. My name is Ben, I'm 27 from Ohio.  I became disabled a couple of years ago, and so I fill my time by learning various things that interest me. I tend to pick things up pretty quick as well. I've already got a couple various licenses in various things, then I found out that I enjoy refinishing wood and metal. I started out doing small things, gradually moved up, and just recently refinished a set of wheels. I was going to strip them down and do them again just because, well I have way too much time on my hands. Instead, I decided I'm going to start working on my old rusted out Suburban. If I clean out my garage, I have a 2 1/2 car so I have enough space to do whatever I need. there is a lot of surface rust, which isn't a problem, a few holes 2in or so, that go completely through, I was going to use body filler, but I recently decided that I would take up welding as a hobby, so I'm going to fix them semi correctly at least. Mainly, it's just a way to learn, nothing has to be perfect for me by any means. The biggest hole is about 14in by 4in in the floor board, so it will be a new floor pan for that. That will be the biggest job I'm going to be doing, at least for now. Which brings me to a couple of questions. What would be the best type of welder for me to buy? What all equipment should I be looking to get for this? I'm just having fun with this, so older used stuff is fine, or new.  Am I looking on ebay? or other places? You guys are the experts. Also, would just be putting it up on jack stands be enough? or am I going to need a body lift/rotisserie or something for this? Lastly where is a good place I can read up and learn all I can before I start. Oh yeah, I am planning on draining the gas and fluids out of the suburban first :-)Thanks alot Ben
Reply:Well Ben, I honestly have to admit Im curious as to your disability, but more importantly admire your determination to overcome it with a craft.  For an individual who is wanting to do auto body work, MIG is the choice of welder.   As far as the type of MIG, for auto body its recommended its MIG meaning it uses gas as a shielding agent, vs selfshielded flux core.  This is because you have less heat input and cleaner welds with the mig.  Mig machines can be bought on EBAY,  but I think why bother.  You can buy a brand new machine for less than $1000 that will do everything you need.  For around $600 or less you can usually find a machine capable of welds up to 3/16" with shielding gas, and 5/16" with flux core.  This isnt incredible or anything, but its perfect for auto body work.  Also, these machines run off 115V power.   These machines, most notably Millers MM135 and Lincolns SP 135 can be found in your local welding supply house.  Lincoln's products are also found at home improvement houses like home depot and lowes.  Miller and Lincoln are my choice due to their quality and they are American made.  Parts and service are a lot cheaper and easier to find.  As far as how high to jack this truck up, well I guess it depends on you.  If you can get under your car and change your oil without jacking the car up, like I can, you can weld under the car without jacking it up.   If you need to put it up on jacks to change oil, youll need to jack it up.  Its true that its easier to get it up higher to weld on then if your just changing the oil, however, you dont have to, and the amount higher may not be an issue.  It will depend on your physical ability and manuverability under the car as to how high you need to go, but you can weld lying on your back without too much difficulty.  This is how I do exhaust work.   I just crawl up under the car, no jacks, unbolt what I needto and make the welds. Just stay out from directly underneath as there will be sparks.  A nice leather jacket is handy, but I wear flannel shirts a lot and they do a decent job.  Youll still get a sting here and there, but that goes with the terriotory.   Best of luck to you and welcome to the forum and the trade.  If you got more questions dont hesitate.Good luckCHRIS
Reply:Sounds like txredneck pretty much gave you a run down of the basics. He knows his stuff. I'll just add a little. For most of us hobby/part time users there are about three classes of machines to look at. First would be those up to about 130 to 140 amps. They usually require only 120 volt feed and can do most body work on up to light fab. With some expertize you cantake them a little further, but that's not the issue yet. The next is a small group around the 175 to 180 amp class. These need 230 volt feed and that may be out of reach for some or more than some want to get into. Their low end is usually a little higher so it makes light sheet metal a little tougher but they can, naturally go up in the fabrication scale a little as a trade off.  The next step would be the above 200 amp machines and the costs go right up their too. These are for the more serious users, the equipment guys, ranchers, fabricators and such or folks who just plain wanted one. They are totally sweet machines. As to where, that's sorta up to the individual. If you feel comfy with e-bay go for it. I don't buy crap off e-bay but many do and are perfectly happy with that. I'm probably more redneck than txredneck. There are a lot of us that would love to shell out the extra for and upgrade if we could sell the smaller machine. Any of the miller, hobart, lincolns will do you good. Don't buy some off brand knock off from a Harbor frieght type vendor.
Reply:damn sandy, youre more redneck than me???  hehe  wel thats alright always gotta be someone above and below ya,  course not sure wherre this puts us lol.  for a weekend warrior sure do know your weldin though.  i stay away from ebay too...im scared of what might happen yet, but i still look good one guyschris