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I'm rebuilding a 01 f-150 super crew and will be replacing part of the driver side cab with a Driver side salvage replacement part . I'm going to cut out the damaged piece and weld in the replacement pieces using a MIG Welder. My question is when I join the pieces new piece of cab with existing cab metal should I weld only on the side of the cab or on the outer cab also. Also once the welds are in place how fine can I grind down the weld an it still be safe? Sorry for all the questions but I'm going to give it a go. the B-pillar and C-Pillar and part of the top cap that's going to be replaced.
Reply:Wow. Tough project. Anyway even with mig you'll find that welding on both sides won't be an issue, blowing holes will. If you still see a seem on the inside cover it with weld. Outside grind as flush as you want. The welded portion will be harder than the sheet metal you've put it on. Use a lot of small short welds, move around, then move back.
Reply:I'm going to use a 110 do you think there is a particular setting I should use degree wise to keep from "blowing holes' in the metal? Thanks for you response. Do you know any place on the web I could get some photos of a job like this or just a car welding job in general?
Reply:Originally Posted by satexasuserI'm going to use a 110 do you think there is a particular setting I should use degree wise to keep from "blowing holes' in the metal? Thanks for you response. Do you know any place on the web I could get some photos of a job like this or just a car welding job in general?
Reply:I work at a body shop and I think for something like that you'd just do many spot welds, I wouldn't think that you'd be able to do much of a bead. I'd spot on both sides.
Reply:Thank for the info. The picture here is the underside of the replacement piece and the redline is where I'm going to cut and the red dots are the SpotWelds I'm going to remove to just use the cab floor itself. Picture of the Bottom of the replacement cab and line of where I'm going to cut. Would you recomend using with the butt joint weld a backing on just the inside of the cab? Since it's going to be coverd by carpet? Thanks a bunch for the info.Mario.
Reply:Looks like maybe you're talking of leaving those 'cab support cross members' on your truck by cutting the spots welds off?? You'd do the same with the replacement piece? Then you'd set your cab section on them?? Sounds good. You could then drill small holes in the replacement cab floor and plug weld back to the cross members. It would end up very similar to the spot welds. Some could be pretty tough to get to tho, for removal. Would you recomend using with the butt joint weld a backing on just the inside of the cab? Since it's going to be coverd by carpet? Thanks a bunch for the info.
Reply:Great advice , I'm going to keep looking at it today and all week. And I'm picking up my truck from the frame and body shop on Thursday and ask them what type of weld they would do also. I'm going to go really slow on this, my buddy is going to lend me his 110 for as long as I like and the vehicle is not even my backup, so I can go real slow. Once I get my final pull on the side pillar of the truck done I'm going to take my measurements and then start marking out my cut lines. I'm going to use one of the laser squares to insure my lines are square on both trucks when I measure up my cuts. I think the saying is "measure twice,cut once"?. But if the body shop people think a bead weld all along the butt ends is OK, I'm leaning that way because it would be easier to work with. I'll let you know. Thanks a whole bunch for all the info. I'll post on Thursday to let you know what the shop people said.
Reply:Sandy,After talking with my frame guy today he told me about a seam on top of the cab which had been tac welded and I could just section my piece of cab back on. So I went home and took a box knife and with one eye open dug in, and BAM just like butter the knife went through the high res plastic. Here is a picture of the high res plastic peeled back reavling the tac welded seam in red . I will keep you posted. with pics and updates. Thanks for your help
Reply:After talking with my frame guy today he told me about a seam on top of the cab which had been tac welded and I could just section my piece of cab back on. So I went home and took a box knife and with one eye open dug in, and BAM just like butter the knife went through the high res plastic.
Reply:No I bought the vehicle as a salvage vehicle out of Spencer Indiana, My brother in laws and I piled into my f-250 CC PSD towing a 18 foot flatbed from San antonio TX to there and back. We drove all night and day and then picked it up and drove right back, it was a blast. Hey I welded my first ever weld today using a 110 wire feed welder, man that was a rush, I was truly stoked, but I have one question, This area I'm attempting to weld using this welder I'm not getting the sticking power with my welds. The picture of the welding machine still has the settings I'm using. Do you have any advice on what I can do to get better welds(ones that really hold well). Thanks for all your help
Reply:Definitely to cold there on the left. I also see a few craters there from low or lack of shielding gas. Poor gas coverage won't affect the penetration abilities of the particular wire and machine size a lot but it will give you those bubbles you see there on the left. What sized wire you running in there? I've never touched a weld-pak 100 but I see it's set way down towards the low end (b & 2 ??). That's odd for a small 120v machine that will only go to so high to begin with. Unless you've got some .030 or .035 in there. I went and looked at the manual but didn't see a chart for the average settings for normal materials and conditions. .025 would probably be your best bet for sheet work plus it'll put you up higher in the settings ranges and give more room to adjust. I guess the first thing is wire size. What wire size do you have? Assuming solid and gas. Maybe someone with a Weld-Pak 100 will jump in here.
Reply:.035 is the wire size. its set a b 1.5 according to the side chart. Think it needs to be hotter? and correct, It does not seem like im getting enouh penetration.
Reply:Originally Posted by satexasuser.035 is the wire size. its set a b 1.5 according to the side chart. Think it needs to be hotter? and correct, It does not seem like im getting enouh penetration.
Reply:Claro, I guess I could try and turn up half click to 2.0. The funny thing is, in the photo there are actually 3 seperate sheets of metal meeting there. One for the new support one for the inner frame and one for the outer frame. So I'm going to try it at 2.0 and see what happens. Only once or twice have I put a hole in the sheet metal, I know for one piece the 1.5 was just about right. If I go to 2.0 should I get quite the "Bloby" weld line if 2.0 is working okay? Also I'm not sure but I think the settings of the side for b 1.5 maybe for a smaller wire, so I may need to go up a notch for the .035 wire. But I'm going to give it a try, hey I've waited all my life to try and weld and now I'm going to give it hell. Thanks for all your help Sandy. I hope my questions are to boring for you. I'm going to weld in the morning and take a few photos.
Reply:But I'm going to give it a try, hey I've waited all my life to try and weld and now I'm going to give it hell. Thanks for all your help Sandy. I hope my questions are to boring for you. I'm going to weld in the morning and take a few photos.
Reply:I just put a few tack weld with a c 2 setting and go no where near the lumpy ness and no burn through. So im going to stay with that for a while. The one thing I noticed was when I was welding the machine was kind of "Boging" down a little? I'm not sure I'm describing that right. The other thing was? how long can I weld before I should give the machine a rest?
Reply:The one thing I noticed was when I was welding the machine was kind of "Boging" down a little?
Reply:you hit it right on the head, I"m using a 30 ft extension cord (orange color) from Home Depot. I will go get a good extension cord from Nothern Tools. Man, you seem to be reading my mistakes without even knowing what I'm doing. I guess all newbies make the same ones. Oh well, off to get a new cord. I really don't kneed a 30 foot either. I will get a shorter stronger cord. Once again, Thanks for your help.
Reply:Hey Sandy.I need some advice. That 110 unit i'm using works great when I'm attaching 3 or more pieces of metal together, but if I'm going to be butt welding two pieces of sheet metal, forget it even at a b-2 setting with .035 wire guage it just goes right through it. Also how often should I clean the tip of the wire feed? And the Lincoln has a conversion kit which will allow me to run a smaller wire for sheet metal. I guess my basic question is what would you use to weld butt welds for sheet metal?
Reply:I would definately run .025 wire. Well I say that from your perspective. Ive welded long enough Id use whatever, up to and including your .035. However, if you find that b2 is too hot, go to A on the voltage and what I would do personaly is to start the wire mid range, and dial in a voltage. Pick A for instance. If its not hot enough, add some wire speed. If its not doing it, go to B, you may need to lower your voltage though. And for cleaning your tip. Use a wire brush, them toothbrush types are awesome. Clean the heck outta that tip. Once the tip starts getting big, the hole, its nto longer conducting electricity properly, and thats bad. So change out your tips when they start getting loose. Loose I mean the wire inside is loose. Mig should make a nice crisp electrical sound. It also should not put out excessive amounts of spatter. umm i cant think of nothing else, oh, when you start to weld, kinda spot it. Wont hurt ya, might save a hole or two. ok good lckChris
Reply:Hey texas,How's it going? Those edges on sheet metal can be gawd awfull. I know you don't wann hear this but that .035 is just too much. I know it lays it in pretty thick and allows for griding down but it has a minimum range and edges just don't deal well with that. Several things, if you have a dual drive roller go get a two pound roll of .025 and some tips. Tips are only a buck or so if you buy a five to ten pack. If you don't have a dual drive roller at least get a two pounder of .030 and some tips for that. No need to swap liners with any of those, just tips and turn the roller around or swap rollers. .030 and .035 take one grove and .025 takes a smaller one. You'll like the .025 and .030, they'll give you a wider range of settings on that machine. For those edges you won't be able to do any thing but very quick spots. Especially with the larger wires. Edges can't dissipate the heat quick enough. Do a quick spot, pause move, do another very quick spot, move and keep going like that. move a couple of inches or clear to the other side of your piece out. Come back and fill in between spots. A longer stick out will cut the heat some but also make harsher starts. Let off buy the time you see the orange. You can fill your holes the same way. Spot, pause till the orange goes away move an eigth or so, spot, so-on, around the lip of the hole till it's filled. Grind it down and look for cold lap.One other thing to do if you have access to the backside is a copper backing plate. For what you are doing some light stuff, maybe 9 or 10 awg would work. Press it to the back side of where you are working and it will suck up some of the heat and the steel won't stick to it. really helps if you can get it in there. You'll need a third hand or a friend who is disposable, cuzz about the third time his hand gets glowing hot he's gonna get pizzed!!!If you can get some get about two by two so you can cut several different sized pieces out. You can shape one or two for special spots. Hope your having fun.
Reply:Sandy, doing good. i worked in sheet metal shop a while and have aquired the skills to do more with .035, but then its partly a matter of necessity and of resources. But generally your right .025 or .03 is best for these cases. the spotting is right on track. you dont make solid welds with even .03 on them kinda joints, just impractical. this where mig shines, cleanliness of the welds. welll good luck y'allchris
Reply:Sandy, doing good. i worked in sheet metal shop a while and have aquired the skills to do more with .035, but then its partly a matter of necessity and of resources.
Reply:Howdy Sandy,Okay, so I'm going to go to the .030 wire size, right now I'm using the .035 flux-cored wire. Is the Flux-Cored also made in .030? If so then I should not have to change antying on my Weld-Pak 100 other than the wire settings and the wire spool itself. Sound Right? Now the fun part, settings. So the .030 will allow me work on thinner metals? I need to check the side and see what the recommend settings are. Sandy what would cause the wire to stick to the metal in mid welding? Man I have a lot to learn. Time to rip me some more metal and practice. How much pressure should I put on the new welds to test them?sandy, you know im sitting here and my head is spinning...well my 3 mos old is cranky tonight, but im thinkkin about your machine you might have a point. smallest machine ive used is mm135, never a 175, a 210, and 250x, 251, 350mp, and a ton of industrial 300 and 400 amp machines. The mm135 ran like crap on the .035 I really never thought too muh of it though as I was using it out of its class when i did. but it did do the trick. the 250x and 251 we ran on some 18 ga a lot, and even alittle 20. all with .035. now also...ive heard about this auto wire tracking on mm175. without using it sounds like a mode on the 350mp. i tried this mode and found it sucked. nice on a hang over morning, otherwise i dialed in a lot better the ole fashioned way. if this is the same concept, i can understand the issues your having, and even if its not the same thing, whatever it is I feel may help to cause some of the problem. but even with that said, there is still a thing to be said for needing more current with a larger dia wire. When i first learned to tig weld it wass made simple for me. I you want to weld a little slower you can use a larger diameter rod as it will help to cool your puddle adding this extra ammount of filler in there. Only problem with this concept is that it will create a larger weld pool. That might be a bad thing, like in the case of a small edge weld. There are circumstances that advocate this, but it starts to get quite difficult. Also, as you increase the dia of the wire, you need more energy to heat that puddle, therefore you get closer and closer to welders top end. Eventually you find yourself going past reasonable duty cycle and you may even just go right beyond the capability of the welder. Ive never run a duty cycle out on a machine. Most Ive used were 100 percent, but a few werent. But I can say with the 135 I sure did run outta power with it pretty quick. wasnt capable of a real thick piece of steel. But anyway, no your not screwd in the head. I can give you a couple differnt explanations, but I think the best lies in the fact that no two welders weld the same exact way. I worked in a production shop for a short time. I found that even though evryone was doing the exact same parts, and tryin for the fastest welds possible, never failed everyone had to change their machines when they switched over at the shift change. It was just one of them things. You expect it more in a fab shop where thicknesses change, and personal preferences can change on how they weld. Some folks like it hot, some like it cooler. Some can tig beer cans, and cant weld with mig to save their ***. Best tig welder I knew was that way. He could do so much with his tig, but give him a mig and the man said more cuss words then a marine gunnery sergeant. Incidently he was a navy seal hehe. ANyway, for a smaller machine .035 is going to give you a lot more trouble. Anything less than a 210 .035 aint too great. And thats my story and im stickin to it. Good luck CHRIS
Reply:Sat, I dont know about thhe .030 flux, but If you can Id go with even smaller if its flux. the wire ive been talkin of was solid. The flux core of the same dia will run hotter than the same dia of solid. As for settings, well boy just get in there and make soem practice welds. Maybe start out cold and work yourself hot. Also, you asked about the tests? well heres a good test. Put your weld in the vise. The weld needs to be horizontal. If you need to for extra length weld some tabs on to give it extra height. Get it in that their vise near the bottom of the weld, and just beat the holy hell outta it. Beat it till it bend plum over and then some unless of course it breaks. If it just bends you done good Good luckCHRIS
Reply:Hope you get some sleep soon, remember those days have 2 boys 4 and 7 and the first one slept only 2 hours at a time for 6 months. OK here is what I'm going to be welding the area to be welded . Here is about the thickness of the metala piece of metal and here is what the inside of the weld-pak 100 chart shows:weld-pak 100 chart . I show for a 18 ga wire using .035 flux-cored use a B-1.5 wire setting. Now should I just take this table with a grain a slat and move on or just keep practicing until I get good enough to nail that weld I want to do. You know how it is TX, In texas we think big....
Reply:heres what i say, its your call chief, but... you know, i like to just get in there grab the bull by the horns. sometimes you come out a winner, sometimes you get poked lol. either way, you gotta learn sometime right. keep it short, use tacks till you know your set. even then, keep em short. oh, and yeah take it with 2 grains of salt, the extra just fer flavor. try it though, whether you do practice before or not, know god made grinders for a reason ok i hope this helps. i also hope this baby will go to sleep hes enjoyin smokey and the bandit and nothing else! good night y'allgod luckchris
Reply:Satexas,yeh you can get flux core in .030 but that's as thin as you're going to find that due to the difficulty of the process. I'd forgot from some time back that you said you were using flux core. If you like the lincoln wire then it will be the nr-211-p like your door chart shows only .030 instead of .035. The common spec is E71T-11 available in several brands. Like we said before, flux core is strong on penetration and bad for sheet work but you've been doing great so far. Move to the smaller wire and you will see some improvement for sure. More than you think I'll bet. Now about the sticking. There could be several things but one is not in the books. For some reason I don't know, flux core doesn't deal well with the pulsing starts that you often need for light sheet work. For one thing it is usually egg shaped a little and will arc IN the tip and cause little bitty sharp burrs inside that restrict the wire feed. You'll even burn points on the lip of the tip that will do the same. Not much you can do about that other than just know it. Tips are cheap so keep and handfull around to change to. If you have a set of A/O tip cleaners you can go back in during idle times and clean them out. You'll see what I mean when a small tip cleaner goes in part way then comes up solid against a burr. More worn tips don't do this as bad but I don't know that a .035 tip on .030 wouldn't be too big. You might give it one shot. If it is too big you'll get some bad starts and erratic beads. Another thing to watch for with sticking is the tip of the wire. Pulsings and short welds can cause a nub on the end of the wire which will cause a poor start the next time which causes arcing inside the tip-----bla bla bla. Keep some sharp diagonals handy and trim the nub off as often as you can remember. Nearly every time if possible so you always have a sharp clean wire making first contact. That dirty nub goes in, skids till it makes contact by scratching, by then you have too much wire out and it sorta kinda melts but not quite. Another product of running large wire on low settings too. Not enough arc energy to blow it away. Also when you get a stuck wire and a spin of the feed roller you've likely got a scarred section of wire coming at you ten feet later. Spin several times when you start having troubles like this and you'll have several of those scarred sections coming out sooner or later. All the little things add up when things start going to heck. The door charts are generally pretty dern close if everything is exactly as their test conditions were (ha ha) but they are a dang good starting point. Vary the wire feed more than the voltage. So I'd try smaller wire, feed tight but not so tight as to egg the wire, new tips, pair of diags and be aware that flux doesn't pulse well and lots of patience. That one piece doesn't look so light gauge that you shouldn't be able to get it with some practice. Good luck.
Reply:txredneck, I'd been told but forgotten about the wire feed tracking on the mm175. I'm also gonna bet you're right about the .035 solid with gas on the 175 class, too much wire/not enough machine. I've never had the pleasure of running any other machines than the one I've got so can't really know these things. I am sort of a flux core fan in spite of the smoke and spatter. Just seemes more like welding. I've used a bunch of the e71t-GS but it's listed as single pass only so I watch where it gets used and how it gets used. In solid I use .024, .030 and .035. Thanks guy.
Reply:some good points i hadnt counted on...but know them to be issues.. good call.chris
Reply:i dint know this post was here... i havent run much thin gauge flux. mostly >1/4" I found the flux smokey and I dont know I kinda worried about my lungs, but this is coming from an old school arc welder oh well. i think somehow it feels different, atleast to me. anyhow hopefully all works out on this projectchris
Reply:If the truck metal gets wet and I dry it up by fan(We actually got rain and I like a dumb **** took off the tarp in the monring). How long should I wait before I start to weld again. I have moved the vehicle in my garage. I guess I wondering if metal has soaking properties like wood and aside from the exterior of the metal, the interior needs to dry out. And on a side note, the closer I get to wrapping up this project the more dumb **** things start happening. Is this common on projects like this. I know, One day at a time... But man, if a wrench can fall and knock of the clamp which then knocs of the screw and etc... it seems to happen...
Reply:Hydrogen embrittlement is a major concern in structural applications but I don't thinks it's too big an issue for us hobby guys and sheet metal joints. Yes it definitiely needs to be dry, watch for moisture in seams and under sides but a little preheat generally does it for me. O/A torch, nuetral flame and wave it over it to about 200º degrees or so. Just the spot to be welded. On larger pieces (other projects) the heat starts to creep reall fast and forces moisture out. Rolled and stamped sheet metal doesn't have any significant soaking properties.Is this common on projects like this. I know, One day at a time... But man, if a wrench can fall and knock of the clamp which then knocs of the screw and etc... it seems to happen...
Reply:Well, I got the two pieces of rocker panel aligned and put in some tack welds to hold it in place the rocker panels aligned and tack welded and tack welds ground down. Also I have a picture of the backside of the weld. Just was wondering Sandy what your thougts were on the look of the backside of the rocker panel tack welds. Also a big thanks, I put on the replacment doors and started to put in the other replacment parts and they fit great. I have alot of welding still to do but I want to dry run the all the cab parts before I finalize all the welds. Thanks a bunch Sandy....
Reply:Really hard to see any great detail but I think maybe you're running a little cold, but for now that's fine. This is a case where you can get in on the backside and hit it again. When you are running just about right on sheet metal, there will be some blistering on the back and a little weldment coming through the cracks. But I don't think you need to run that hot right here for now till you get the feel for it. You are likely to have some burn through troubles with any gaps and ends anyway. On a test piece, do a spot on the back side, let it cool a moment then cover that same spot on the front. It'll be easier to weave or circle and smooth out once it's been tied together and some weldment is there to take the heat. Make your grinding easier too. So by moving around spot to spot and from front to back side it'll all come out even when there are some shaky looking spots at the starts. I keep a marker around for doing those big swooping arrows with notes that say things like "fill in back side", "gouge out" and so-on. Looks impressive even if you don't do what the notes say!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:Hey Sandy, Ever article keeps stating when doing a butt weld to weave the tip a little? Now I've looked at alot of pictures of welds and my welds tend to be a bit "Bloby" and the pictures show these welds that look like "((((((((". Am I doing somthing wrong when pulling down the butt line to weld?
Reply:I doubt you're doing a whole bunch wrong. It's all getting familiar with what happens and what to look for. If you are doing a drag and weave try to get a mental cadence going on the weave with a short hold and the outside or slow turn around for the return trip. This pause at the outside of the weave helps let the metal wet out better then as you move back across it will freeze behind you. That way the bead looks more like the movement you made. Too quick on the weave leaves most of the heat in the middle and that's where the metal will be.So too small or too quick a weave. Too low a setting can be a big culprit in globby welds. That's a bad thing to hear if you're doing sheet metal. The wire is really making contact, heating up to the melting point and being shoved in by the following wire. As the bead builds up the the size of the weldment is greater than the ability of the machine to get the base to the melting point so it all freezes faster. On and on. Low voltage may leave you with a high ridge, but if you're following the charts you should be close on that. So if you're on flatter and getting globby results you're gonna have to turn it up a wee bit, wire feed only at first and not much. I think you're on solid wire and gas now so you should be hearing more of a nice even fast cracking to a buzz sound. You should see the wire actually melting the base and the weldment following your moves. If you're closer to vertical then we need to do it just a little different.PS,With some real metal your beads would look better too. On thin sheet it's a different story. At best doing what your doing there will be some high spots and a lot of melting of what base metal there is.Last edited by Sandy; 07-17-2005 at 01:45 AM.
Reply:are we on solid wire yet? if we are then forget weaving. Forget tryin to make long welds. Do this, go BZZZ stop, hold a second or two till the orange fades in your hood, go bzzzzstop, fade the orange away, bzzzzzstop. Each new "bzzz" should be at the forward end of the last. Your basically stitching with spot welds. This will help things a lot as the heat becomes controlled much easier. You put in just enough heat to get fusion, and let it off. Add more, let it off. The idea here is to not burn through, or atleast not excessive. It also helps with distortion.Good luckCHRIS
Reply:Hey Sandy, you got to check this out. It's a tutorial with pictures and actual video of what we are talking about and what to look for. One more thing, so I understand, if you keep your voltagle setting the same but increase your wire feed seeting how does that affect your weld? Example allows more penetration or allows for hotter Pool? But check the site out.
Reply:SATEX!!!!!Ya forgot the link. I've got to run off to meet the wife and grandaughter for early lunch but I will definitely check it out.One more thing, so I understand, if you keep your voltagle setting the same but increase your wire feed seeting how does that affect your weld? Example allows more penetration or allows for hotter Pool?
Reply:hey Sandy..... Weeeeeeeeeheeeeeeeewwwwwww. ooooooouuhhhhhhh. Man you have taught me well. But first the Linkg Learn Mig Welding . Man what a day to weld. Okay here's what happen after further measurement I learned I needed a 1/4 filler on my rocker panel. Undid my tack welds and the got my 1/4 piece in and clamps in place. I had been practicing for a while and had some decent practice welds. I've starte to make to nice welds where I could hear that ssssssss and very little poping and the welds were not just piles but low. So any way I put my 1/4 piece in place and start to weld with a c-1.5 setting. Now don't flip but I did not get the converter kit, at least not yet. So I'm still using the .035 flux-cored. So I start my weld in my vertical 1/4 filler piece and it starts sssssssssssssss ssssssss I can see my pool and i'm doing the back hold back hold cadence and I can see my pool and more pure sssssssssssss sssssssss very little poping. Stop to check my back 1/4 piece to see what type of pentration and I can still see that golden glow going on. Jump back on my 1/4 piece and sssssssssssss sssssssss ssss. finally back of the weld and realize is a nice low really nice look weld with good penetration, Man I think the people could hear me hooting and hollering. Good thing they could not see my putting my grove on around the truck . But man it was awesome. Now I know what everyone is talking about the pooling and that sssssssssssssss. oooooo yeah and I have you to thank for it. I'm going to My moms for my first job and put on some honking big old wheels on her barbecue pit.aaaaaaaaaaaaaeeyyyyyyyeeeeeeee
Reply:Man I think the people could hear me hooting and hollering. Good thing they could not see my putting my grove on around the truck . But man it was awesome.
Reply:Okay, Sandy went ahead and got the converter kit, I want to try welding with the .025 with shielded gas. Just want to give it a try and see what the diff is. I go the kit for 83 delivered. Just taking my time and doing a little welding at a time. But I'ts coming along nicely.
Reply:Okay, Sandy went ahead and got the converter kit, I want to try welding with the .025 with shielded gas. Just want to give it a try and see what the diff is.
Reply:Yeah,, Got my sheilding gas today (one of those big old honkin tanks) 75 25 mixture. Tomorrowo my kit comes in and it is time to melt some metal. Hey Sandy I'm sure you know this, but doooonnnttttt wear flip flops when your welding ooooouuuuccchhhh. Man That truck is starting to come to life.
Reply:Hey Sandy I'm sure you know this, but doooonnnttttt wear flip flops when your welding ooooouuuuccchhhh.
Reply:uuumhuuum I done got that converter kit on real good. uuuuhhhummm. I really want to melt some steel but it done took me 2 hours to get it on so it's getting to be vital time.uuuuuuhhhummmm. Gues I'll waith tommorrow to se if I blowed it up... uuuuuuuhhhummmm
Reply:What type of mig machine do u have? |
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发表于 2021-9-1 01:01:43