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Greetings,I've just picked up a dynasty 200 dx tig welder and was going to purchase the Miller contractor kit for it also, but can't decide weather to get the foot or finger control unit.First question; is the said kit the best package for the unit? I'm open to suggestions.Second; from what I understand after searching through this forum, the finger amp control is some what more difficult to operate or get used to. Being new to tig, what would be best?I plan on using this setup primarily on SS and aluminum in a dedicated work space, my mig can continue dealing with mild steel.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thank you!
Reply:If you're doing your work in a 'dedicated work space' as you put it, odds are most of it won't be out of position. I'd definitely go with the foot control in this case.As for the rest, I'm not familiar with all the Miller accessories etc. so I can't really help you out.The one tip I WILL give you is that if you're going to do mostly stainless, INVEST IN A SET OF GAS LENSES for whatever sizes of tungsten you'll be using. It'll save you a hell of a lot of headaches grinding out inclusions.MR
Reply:Howdy! They make really nice kits that are sets including all the goodies neaded to turn your torch into a gas lens style. You can order them with the three most common sizes, and they have all the parts needed from collets to cups and tungstens too. mine is an AK-3GS from C-K worldwide. it fits a bunch of "3 series" torches. it has the nicer taper collets too. reasonably priced if you get the kits. I'm just getting started with tig too! but I don't have any HF or AC machine... so I'm stuck learning on steel, which is just fine I gotta pay off my last big investment welder first! Take care! happy tiggin! Brian Lee Sparkeee24
Reply:I'm no TIG expert believe me.....and I have both the finger and foot controls for my synchrowave 250. I tend to like the foot control better.....since we all drive we're used to the gas pedal. I have found it's easier for me to use since you already have the muscle memory on how to use a gas pedal so you can concentrate on the left hand/right hand stuff you need too. I don't know about you but it's hard enough trying to move the torch, dip the filler rod, and control the heat..... When I tried the finger control I found I would move the torch out of place when trying to dial down the heat....it's probably just a question of learning how to do that so it becomes second nature...kinda like the foot/gas pedal control.If you can swing the price of both get'em....then you can learn to utilize both sets of controls.....I was lucky, got mine as part of a Xmas present...
Reply:your best bet is foot control but i use both foot control and finger control. i use a miller rccs-14 north/south contactor control its easy to use just roll it toward you or away from you. miller has another finger control it is the rcc-14 side/side contactor control but it is more difficult to use. but the foot control is best if your not going anywhere. i have a buddy that has a dynasty with a cooler to weld longer between stops he loves it. if your welding stainless steel get some 1/16" and 3/32" 2% tungsten and for aluminum use 3/32" and 1/8" pure tungsten and if your welding aluminum thicker than 1/4" plate with your dynasty get a bottle of helium/argon mix you will be glad you did. aluminum absorbs alot of heat so it takes alot more heat to penetrate like 200 plus amps. if your welding alot of aluminum buy a cooler for it or else you will be buying more torches and make sure that torch can handle the same amount of amps as your machine can. cuz some welding machines out there provide 200 amps but the torch can only handle 150 amps and thats not good to do that.enjoy your heliarc machineat work they call me the master of welding stainless steel
Reply:Wow, Thanks Guys!Looks like Ill get the foot control.....think Ill order it today : ). I can always try the finger control down the road. A guy can never have enough toys!You've all been so helpful! I definitely fee more comfortable with my decision to buy this unit. Ive drooled over it at store and visited it often on the internet. I look forward to making it past the learning curve and producing kick-*** welds (I hope).Im sure Ill have more questions in the future. Thanks again for all your advice.BTW Im left handed, anything else I might consider. The tig heads Ive played with in the store feel comfortable in either hand.
Reply:you can consider looking at the hobart welding web forum page for articles are making your own controllers. There are lots of info pages and diagrams and schematics there to choose from. I think there are a few prices too, about 30$ a set or so for all the pieces, and they have the parts numbers too. Just some ideas if you fel capable. They have other ideas for tig units that you add to a standard stick welder as well. Good luck Brian Lee Sparkeee24
Reply:Thanks Again Brian!
Reply:I am partial to finger control now, but most of my welds are at odd angles, etc. I am not good at standing and walking on 2 feet, can't imagine trying to juggle everything on 1 foot with other controlling the arc. Now if I was sitting during welding, be a different story.I have the foot control up on the shelf. I might need to take it back out and try it sometime, just to compare again as it has been a few years since I used it.
Reply:I have found for my setup, several 10K ohm (specified 2k-10K ohm potentiometer in MY Lincoln manual) potentiometers in various styles, and the pin connections as well! MY machine has 10 volts DC put across a 10 K ohm pot, and the return determines the current output of the overall machine. So for MY machine....once again, your may be different... I can get a 3 wire lead 25 ft long, a 10 k ohm slide pot, and the correct amphenal connector for the other end. The slide pot, is 60 cents to 3$ from what I have seen. the wire can be just about anything really, and the amphenal connector is the expensive part. About 15$ I think. And then something you fab to put the slide in that velcros to the torch. the slide part comes in all sizes and shapes out there. Make sure it's a proportional slide, and not an Audio slide. Some more ideas, but this approach seems very affordable to come up with. Take care! Brian Lee Sparkeee24. You would have to find the specifs for your machine to match a variable resistor for your needs I believe.
Reply:pedal for aluminum.. just a switch by the torch for steel |
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发表于 2021-9-1 01:01:32