Something for newbies

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Most "welders" learned their craft thru OJT. Which means there were other experienced welders around to guide them as they learned. If you're trying to teach yourself, you don't have that resource. All welding is job specific! That's why there is no universal welder certification test. The only thing certification papers are good for is getting you a welding test over other applicants that don't have them. And just because you may have welded at Joe's Radiator shop and Steakhouse, that doesn't mean you can weld race cars or widgets.Assuming you have the welding machine properly set up.The first rule is CONSISTENCY. You can't fix what's wrong if you never do the same thing twice. For example: When stick welding with a 7018 in the flat position. The rod should touch the plate while welding. That's why it's called a drag rod. There should be contact, but no pressure. All you're doing is feeding the rod to the plate at the speed it's melting. If you have control, hopefully, you do it in a straight line.Weldtek
Reply:If I could add....I have found the hardest part of welding is not the welding part, but the troubleshooting when things go wrong. Knowledge is power.Bill
Reply:listen to the teacher...you'll never get anywhere without education...nope it wont happen.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:If you have trouble remembering stuff, buy a $3 cardboard sliding welding calculator and throw it in the toolbox.I can't be the only one that can't remember everything, can I?
Reply:When stick welding with a 7018 in the flat position. The rod should touch the plate while welding. That's why it's called a drag rod. There should be contact, but no pressure(quote)mmmmmm not really...yes but no at the same time.. i can weld sideways with 7018 and not touch the work whatsoever and get really good penetration and not a bad finish to boot...but then and again on flat "on the bench" stuff..lay it down and watch... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterWhen stick welding with a 7018 in the flat position. The rod should touch the plate while welding. That's why it's called a drag rod. There should be contact, but no pressure(quote)mmmmmm not really...yes but no at the same time.. i can weld sideways with 7018 and not touch the work whatsoever and get really good penetration and not a bad finish to boot...but then and again on flat "on the bench" stuff..lay it down and watch... ...zap!
Reply:Thanks for the support TEK.If you newbies are listening, all of these welders can help you. Just different styles is all. When you strike an arc with 7018 and it sticks to the plate, ****ing you off;  then it's time to learn how to strike an arc. Lesson - Strike an arc, weld 2 inches and stop. Strike an arc, weld 2 inches and stop. Do this 'til you're sick of it. Then, do it some more. Welding takes lots of practice. You should never hear the rod touch the plate when arc starting. It's a wrist motion, not an elbow motion. You're not framing a house. If you strike an arc like driving nails with a hammer, you're gonna stick the rod.  Good luck.Vince Lombardi actually said, "Perfect practice makes perfect!"Weldtek
Reply:I've been practicing the strike an arc motion and it works very well, where I am having some issue is with the "whip" motion that I observed on one of the links someone posted.  I can weld fairly smoothly but when I whip to the front and then come back I end up depsositing too much metal as I move forward.  Is the weld under this method supposed to "lumpy"?.  My understanding was this should produce a nicer looking weld and possibly increase penetration since it is sort of like preheating the area you are about to weld.   Any comments would be appreciated..Michael
Reply:I'm thinking that normally the whip 'n pause should be reserved for the 6010/6011 type rods. These are penetrating rods that don't usually lay down a lot anyway and the whip 'n pause helps build up some as you go as well as get out of the keyhole if it gets too hot and digs too deep. I can see where it might be a problem with some rods in the 'fill' or 'fast fill' groups.
Reply:BigBlock - You shouldn't whip 7018 in and out of the puddle. 7018 is a medium penetration electrode and should not go backwards in the puddle. Yes, it can be done; but, it is more likely to trap slag and get poor fusion. The slag should peel off by itslef, when done right. I'll post some pics tomorrow after work. The ripple pattern on the surface of a 7018 bead is the trailing edge of the puddle freezing as the arc moves forward. You should not be able to snag your finger nail on it. If the ripple has depth, you're overfilling the puddle.Sandy - You're dead on balls accurate! An industry term. In my opinion, what happened was this. A boss handed his welder some fancy new 7018 rods and said you have to use these now. And the welder said I ain't never welded with these before, how do I do it?  The boss said, "I don't know, run 'em like the red ones!" And that's how it happened.Weldtek
Reply:Thanks Weldtek...I haven't tried the 7018's yet I've been burning through 6011 and 6013s from ESAB.  The main reason is that the assembly I've been working on doesn't give me much flat area to weld.  It seems everthing is a little out of position on an angle.  I'll need to switch over to DCEP if I go with the 7018s and I haven't tried that yet on anything.Michael
Reply:Well good luck, post some pics and let me know if I can help.Weldtek
Reply:Heres a question I can strike an arc with no problems at high amperages but at low ones I stick the rod like nobodys business, whats the trick to that other than practicing? I have heard it is a little difficult to learn to weld on an AC welder, the alternating current makes it tough to strike an arc and keep it.Will   Supports Autism Awareness                            My ToysBobCat 225 PLusMillermatic 130Miller Spectrum 300 CutmateEverlast Power Tig 185 Micro April is Autism Month .
Reply:lower amps = smaller rod dia.
Reply:Originally Posted by 383bigblockThanks Weldtek...I haven't tried the 7018's yet I've been burning through 6011 and 6013s from ESAB.  The main reason is that the assembly I've been working on doesn't give me much flat area to weld.  It seems everthing is a little out of position on an angle.  I'll need to switch over to DCEP if I go with the 7018s and I haven't tried that yet on anything.Michael
Reply:Originally Posted by prop-doctorlower amps = smaller rod dia.
Reply:Originally Posted by Steelwillso I should try a 3/32 rod instead of an 1/8 for the low amp stuff ?
Reply:Thanks I'll try that.Will   Supports Autism Awareness                            My ToysBobCat 225 PLusMillermatic 130Miller Spectrum 300 CutmateEverlast Power Tig 185 Micro April is Autism Month .
Reply:I can say as someone always learning and as I am just a beginer welder, when I work at home I tend to use alot of rod just welding anything together just to see what happens. I try to look at things like you say and remember which worked best.But there are beads of weld on stuff everywhere here, like the old timers say practice,practice and more practice.I have alawys want to weld and I am going to weld, I do so with the hopes of getting better each time I do it if only in my own mind. Hey at least I don't jump at the arc any more, yes I was a jumper weird as sparks and suck loud nosies freak me out any more.But arc spark is covered now, I don't hardly jump at all any more, naa I am used to it now.
Reply:Hey at least I don't jump at the arc any more, yes I was a jumper weird as sparks and suck loud nosies freak me out any more.But arc spark is covered now, I don't hardly jump at all any more, naa I am used to it now.[/QUOTE]Hey sunpowered, just keep at it. I started welding when I was 19, in the shipyard. I was so bad that my first instructor told me that if he ever went to prison, he hoped I welded the bars together! I wonder what he meant?If you took all the steel I wasted learning how to weld, you could build a small Tuna boat. I've probably taken well over 400 welding tests, some of them procedure qualifications (45" long) and I failed at least 75 of those. Anyone who says he's never failed a welding test, has never taken a welding test!BURN-N-LEARNWeldtek
Reply:Originally Posted by WeldtekAnyone who says he's never failed a welding test, has never taken a welding test!BURN-N-LEARN
Reply:Kudos to you Tek! You must be one of those "Golden Arm" welders we talked about in the shipyard. Did you learn in welding school or OJT? Most welders failed their first test for visual.Weldtek
Reply:Originally Posted by WeldtekKudos to you Tek! You must be one of those "Golden Arm" welders we talked about in the shipyard. Did you learn in welding school or OJT? Most welders failed their first test for visual.
Reply:7018 is a drag rod?  The big ones like 5/32" tolerate the drag technique better but I find standing the rod closer to vertical with a very short arc length works best.  You know you have a good bead with 7018 when your slag peels off in one big piece on its own as the weld cools without even getting out the chipping hammer.  7024, now that is a drag rod.
Reply:i've never had a weld fail a test yet either.. nope and its gonna stay that way.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.Hey 1500. All of the heavy flux rods are designed to touch the plate. The melt off of the flux produces a crucible (inverted cone) on the end of the rod; which is actually the correct arc length. The rod should touch the plate ahead of the puddle, at a slight angle. The key to a stable arc in constant current mode, is a steady arc length. I know alot of welders can weld fine holding a gap; matter of fact in vertical up, it's harder to touch the plate than not. Zap and Tek, I apologize for such a blanket statement, but you guys are the exception, not the rule. What I've been trying to do is remove these old wives tales and urban legends that surround the welding trade. For example, if you want to try it. Knock all the flux off a 1/8"  7018 and weld flat with it. It will weld just fine at about 150 - 175 amps. That's how the "old timers" did it before flux was used. And that's why they used to say arc length was a nickel.Weldtek
Reply:Zap and Tek, I apologize for such a blanket statement, but you guys are the exception, not the rule. apology accepted...but whats the apology for anyway? ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Weldtek, no need to apologize to me, but thanks anyway. No offense taken and I had my say. All good. I do like what you are doing with this thread as this is more what I think these forums should be like. An information warehouse for everyone, us old farts included. We all have our different arenas that we play in so the diversity of knowledge is an exciting thing. Keep up the good work!
Reply:I find these threads very helpful.  All of the input is terrific as well.  The information helps when I'm practicing my welds.  It sure saves me a lot of rods that would otherwise be wasted!DIY turbo Z28http://JunkyardTurbos.com