Oven for rod

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I have a service truck and I want to install an oven for the rod.  I found some 120 volt oven but I did not found 12 volts.  Sure, I can install an inverter but a 12 volts should be simple to install.Do you know where I can found 12 volt oven?
Reply:why dont you "convert" it?you really dont need that much heat..its more for moisture control..2 100 watt 12 volt light bulbs (for a boat) would provide enough heat for the job..just another idea......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:An inspector will not go for the light bulbs in a box idea, and neither should anyone running a low-hy rod.Good question, by the way.  I don't see any 12V models out there.  Mine is a small 120V, and I'm always swapping where it's plugged in from the landline, to the power inverter, to the TB301G aux. power, etc, depending on what engine is running or where I'm at.Last edited by MAC702; 11-07-2006 at 04:38 PM.
Reply:I will guess that you won't find a 12V unit available as a standard product. On a truck I would expect th oven to be plugged into a machine or generator when on site, and plugged into a land line when one is available, since running there is a good chance of draining the battery if it is left on when the vehicle isn't running.  Keep in mind that the small units (for maybe 10Lb of electrode) use at least 100W heaters. It won't take long for a battery to drain at this power. A larger oven will be 250W or more (the one at work is 800W, good for about 200Lb). A 12V unit can't be plugged into the wall when the truck is not in use (like while you sleep in a nice toasty bed), but a 120V unit can.I would really suggest an inverter for this. Added benefit, a 250W inverter will also power othr (small)120V equipment, handy on a truck.
Reply:Yeah, it's easier to plug the oven in to another source than to move the rod to a different oven when you get home.
Reply:It will hold its heat for a while while you're driving.
Reply:Sounds like some sort of oven that runs on propane would be handy.   Maybe some kinda cooker for RV'ing or camping could be used?
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33Sounds like some sort of oven that runs on propane would be handy.   Maybe some kinda cooker for RV'ing or camping could be used?
Reply:I think you should be using a regular a/c unit, carry several extention cords on your truck and maybe set a layer of firebrick to use as a heat battery inside the oven. Are your rods absorbing moisure on the job, is this a hazard of the type of work you do? I haven't heard of this type of problem before is why I ask, usually you wouldn't need to carry around your oven with you, just an airtight container for the rods. There are a lot of options from ammo boxes with a good seal to store bought rod containers.   Just curious, does anyone else carry an oven in the field?If you don't have the time to do it right, then you definitely don't have the time to do it over.
Reply:Clanweld,just so you know, these guys are talking about the proper storage of 7018 low hydrogen stick electrode.  ASME, API, AWS, etc. codes require storage in an oven after the hemetic container is opened.   Don't know the temperature.
Reply:Nope, didnt know that, thanks for the info. Couldn't figure what all the fuss was about. In my limited usage, few hundred lbs or so never had a problem using 7018 straight out of the can, but code IS code, so Pulsar do most guy doing code work actually carry an oven with them, and does it really need to be powered all the time? The reason I suggested the brick was to try to help hold the heat range required while driving to and from the job site. If it does need to be powered, you are looking at around 9-10 amp draw for a 1000w oven, I would think you would need to upgrade to a heavy duty alternator, a 2nd (marine) battery with an isolator as well. Without that kind of a setup if you shut off the truck with the oven on, your battery wouldn't last very long, spelled dead truck.Last edited by Clanweld; 11-08-2006 at 09:55 PM.If you don't have the time to do it right, then you definitely don't have the time to do it over.
Reply:Originally Posted by Clanweld...If it does need to be powered, you are looking at around 9-10 amp draw for a 1000w oven, I would think you would need to upgrade to a heavy duty alternator, a 2nd (marine) battery with an isolator as well. Without that kind of a setup if you shut off the truck with the oven on, your battery wouldn't last very long, spelled dead truck.
Reply:I had a service truck that I made a sleeper cab type tool box on and I ran the truck exhaust up through the tool box where it kept the rod locker plenty dry and hot.  Don't know if it would work for you and it probably wouldn't keep it to code specs. But if you are going to a code job you would buy new rod first anyway. I do.
Reply:Originally Posted by MAC702This would be more than an 80A draw on the battery system.
Reply:Depending on the rod you use, AWS D1.1 says that for a 70XX electrode, the allowable atmospheric exposure is 4 hrs. max. For 70XXR and 70XXHZR, it is 9 hrs. max. Depending on how long you were out on a job, you could just put them in a good container to keep them dry and return them to the oven when you get back to the shop. Also, you will only find electric vented electrode ovens because a gas flame would add moisture to the rods and a sealed oven would also hold the moisture in. Just my .02. HenryA bad welder makes a good grinderA grinder and paint makes a welder that ain't!If you can't put a good weld on it, put alot of weld on it!
Reply:Originally Posted by MNSTRBLDR... AWS D1.1 says that for a 70XX electrode, the allowable atmospheric exposure is 4 hrs. max. For 70XXR and 70XXHZR, it is 9 hrs. max. ...
Reply:Here is a good article for storing and re-drying electrodes http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...nt/storing.asp