Gas lense....

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Guys,I have a snycro 200 with a Weldcraft WP1712SFD150 TIG torch.  I want to get a gas lense to try with it, but not sure how to size them or which ones would work.  I am wanting the unit for welding in automotive applications......what size would you guys advise me to get?  Want something that will fit down in angles (roll bar tubes etc.). On a side discussion one reason I am looking at one of these is my welds show little to no color, even on super cleaned material.  When I run a bead on aluminum is nice and shiney, but when I do stainless its dark...or even on mild its dark looking.....tried high flows of Argon, and low flows....all about the same.  Tried just getting a puddle, and running with it with no filler to see if I am just moving too slow, and its all the same....dark color.  Am I kidding myself to think they will be nice and pretty like I see on here....what I mean are people "buffing" up their beads to make them pretty when I see them on here.  Also checked everything for leaks.....and everything checks out.  Thoughts?ThanksBest Times with 434 Naturally Aspirated Vette60 - 1.261/8 -  6.37@ 107.25 MPH 1/4 - 10.08 & 134.9MPH1/4 - 9.60@144MPH
Reply:I have 2 gas lenzes..I very rarely use them..They are more for sticking the tungestion "way out" to get into difficult places..If the gas coverage is good and there is no contamination then you really will not see any diffrence..Why the stainless is dark and grey...I do not know..I do go over my welds with a brush..Only so I know all is good......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Here is info on your torch components at Arc Zone.  They have what you need or can get it, and are very helpful and knowledable.http://198.170.235.20/catalog/web_st...=1536611_18187If you make a small spot weld, no wire, no travel, tight arc length, short tungsten stickout, no cross breeze, etc, (every perfect for good shielding) and the weld still comes out dark colored (oxidized) then it seems like you are getting air in the shield gas somehow.Check for leaks in the gas system by running the torch gas while plugging the gas nozzle with your thumb to pressurize the system, then bubble check every singe connection including the flowmeter regulator with soapy liquid (Windex will work).  A leak will allow air to enter even though pressure is outward.  Check the O-ring on the torch back cap and the insulator/heat shield between the cup and the torch, do you have the proper torch components?100% Argon gas?
Reply:Thanks fellas, if I make a very small little tach weld I can see some nice "rainbow" color to it....but nothing long.....or even as mentioned if I run a butt joint and just "blend" the two together with no filler rod and move quickly....as i said I thought I was moving too slow or something.  Watching the twins now, or I would go out and take some photos to show you what I am talking about.  Maybe I just need to brush them afterwords to get the "look".Also have not really had much time to play with the different settings on the machine...usually just set it to DCEN on a moderate amperage....as mentioned the aluminum comes out beautiful....in my opinion its the easiest thing to weld...I will check out the link inbetween screaming kids Best Times with 434 Naturally Aspirated Vette60 - 1.261/8 -  6.37@ 107.25 MPH 1/4 - 10.08 & 134.9MPH1/4 - 9.60@144MPH
Reply:I've found that when a weld in staniless steel tends to come out a bit dark, it's probably a sign of a little too much heat. If you go easier on the heat, generally you will get that nice copperish shiny color to your welds. The gas lenses are nice and will improve the shape of the arc somewhat. The only thing I don't like about them is that they are somewhat bulky for close work. Otherwise, they are a good deal.Miller Millermatic 252Miller Syncrowave 200Liincoln AC-DC 225Victor O-A Set
Reply:Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it....as mentioned the aluminum comes out beautiful....in my opinion its the easiest thing to weld...
Reply:I was having problems with dark SS welds. Found a hole in the gas line to the torch. Try taking your torch apart and block off nozzle and cap side, hit the peddle if gas flows you have a leek, no flow no leek.Proper set up and practice is the place to start. Amperage and travel speed are more critical with SS than with mild steel. Stainless Steel is poor at heat transfer. The AWS Welding Journal Mag., June 2007 has an article covering welding alloy pipe which includes Stainless Steels. Has a lot of good tips on TIG welding alloy steels. Two things that helped me get a better SS welds were, less heat (amperage) and slower travel speed. The article recommended to always use a gas lens on alloy steels. A 1/16" gas lens will work (1/16" red DC- is good to 150 amps). use a larger nozzle 1/2" if you can get it where you need to weld.You can get shiny steel and SS welds without brushing them.Hope this is more help than confusion.Our twins are 16. Glad to hear you spend time with yours. It will be time well spent.  When you get time post some Pics.
Reply:i experimented with gas lenses about 6 mo. ago and never went back to the regular setup. the main reason i did it was because the coverage is so much better than a regular nozzle, you can cut you gas back 1/2. when you are buying your own gas, thats reason enuff for me .....................todd
Reply:i always use the gas lens.  the cup gets bulky, but i mostly work outside or with a fan nearby, and the lens cuts down on the gas being blown away.