Gate Fabrication

admin

Besides squaring up the gate frame what else is there to fabricating a quality gate or fence section? Are there any specific steps to follow? I do not have a shop, only a driveway and some saw horses to work off of. Any info is much appreciated.Lincoln Power Mig 140C
Reply:Build a flat table first.  It doesn't have to be a solid top; in fact, I prefer a skeleton top with cross bars of angle iron for easy clamping of things on the table.  What equipment do you own?
Reply:*making good welds...*ability to paint it correctly *having a nice design*having the time and money*mostly and I think the most important part is how to attach itI´m pretty sure you can do one correctly just go slow and measure twice cut one....My Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3   4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:Mac702s advice would have saved me a lot of time on the gate that I pictured in here last week. I tried to set the gate up on the basement floor, but it wasnt flat enough and I was not getting things true. I stopped and went out and bought 2-2X6X3/16 rectangle tubes, 2-5"X3/16" C channels, 4 pipestands and made a flat level table. Everything flew together once I had a true base to start from.
Reply:Squaring up is important but make sure to cross measure it to get it perfect.
Reply:are you building this for yourself or for someone else?  how ornate do you want to go?  you probably *can* do this with saw horses, a level, a tape measure.  make sure you have something level to begin with and you have a base line to work from, this has already been mentioned, but is worth repeating.  if you want to make it fancy you can buy almost everything ready made, personally i think it loses something to buy ready made components and weld them together but its a good place to start.  look here for ideas-www.nomma.org.  they have links to suppliers which are good places to look for common ways to attach the thing to the ground/wall/house/slow moving neighbors cow, whatever it is your attaching it to. making sure it opens and closes is what separates a gate from a fence, so that is somewhat important.  if it leans one way or the other you may have trouble keeping it opened/closed.  its a good idea to plan everything out before you start, i mean everything, i always get ahead of myself and don't bother figuring little details and it always bites me.
Reply:Thank you for the info, it is much appreciated. As for answering your different questions here goes. I plan to build a garden gate/arbor combo for my yard, but eventually I want to start fabricating various garden items (arbors, gates, trellises, etc and eventually large gates and railings) to display/sell at the local nurseries in the area. As for what tools I have, I'm currently limited to the welder, a grinder, and various misc hand tools.Lincoln Power Mig 140C
Reply:RNDSuggestion for businessIf you are going to build repeated pattern stuff, then make a jig.  3/4" plywood good jig material.  Use studs for spacers.  Support it well and remove it when it is not needed.If you can handle the weight, then build with solid hot rolled steel for balusters.  Tubing is alright but it is very dirty/oiled when new and requires a good cleaning.  Cold rolled is expensive and also oily when new.  I use many 1/2" balusters, the difference weight for 1/2"tubing vs. 1/2"solid is significant, however the price is the same, around here any way.  I am not suggesting you get 2" solid instead of 2" tubing, however balusters usually make up the bulk of a project and often require much cleaning. Cleaning is never to be over looked when building/pricing ornamental stuff.  Often it takes as much time as welding.  Most people paint over mill scale unless removal is requested.  Heavy guage is easier to weld than thin guage.Brace your project in the jig.  Nothing should be forced.  Anything forced will show up in finished project as an ugly bow.  Strong tack your project, before you solid weld anthing.  Tack in places you can access with a grinder.  Remember each tack causes movement of our metal so tack wisely. If you will be placing many balusters in the project, then build with the largest cross section tubing that will be appealing for your job.  There will be less warpage.   Attaching is important, there is no universal method.  I prefer to use plates rather than coring.  Place shoes over plates for appearance.  Plates can be stronger than coring, if done correctly.  Coring is a poor choice for attaching, I do several repairs of cored railing per year.  Ironically, I have 30 holes to core between today and tomorrow.  A lot of the abhors, trellis' and topieraries (sp) around here come from other countries.   I no of a few garden center who make annual trips to Mexico. I used to repair lots this stuff for one garden center.  Unless you have a connections you might need to make something unique in that area.  You have what you need to get started.  Good luck with your venture.
Reply:To add another two cents and agree with what tapwelder said about the business end of this sort of stuff, people with means seem generally willing to pay what it's really worth for local art and craftsmanship.  The more you can differentiate yourself as a custom designer and fabricator of ornamental work, an artist really, the more you can avoid your price "chasing the foreign stuff to the bottom."An "off the shelf" arbor is one thing.  A custom made to order, even if it's just custom sized, is another.  A work of art is another still.  And remember, art is in the eye of the beholder. Favorite right now is a Miller Syncro 200.Tons of tools and I blame at least one of them when things don't go right.
Reply:learn to use a hammer and anvil.  once you do it will dramatically separate your work from people who buy components off the shelf.
Reply:RND66With your limited tool collection hot rolled solid stock and channel are definately the way to go.  you can work solid stock up to about 1/2" fairly easily without heat.  you can make arcs and scorlls, can taper with a grinder.rusty ripple, what you say is true.  However, I would tread very lightly down the path of blacksmithing unless you are going to go all out an seek the customers willing to pay for true custom work.  You really need to find client who will compensate for the results you produce.  Your clients will dictate how custom you build.  Most of my clients are not going to pay extra because I hand forged a scroll.  Many of my clients are looking around their neighborhood saying "I want something like that".  Unless the item is truly unique I would purchase whatever was needed.    Learning to use a hammer and anvil would be a great asset.  However, don't get bog down in making everything just because you can. If it is a hobby do what you want.  If it is a business, concentrate of finding the correct clientale before committing to fabbing everything, jus cuz you think it's better.  Been there, Done that...
Reply:I agree with the learning to use a hammer and anvil (if you have them). I personally do not like the welding together of purchased (cast) parts but some people love it so again, your customer should drive your decisions.I like forging and making things myself and am my own best customer. Here is a gate I made for my wife (She actually likes it). Being creative is more fun but if it is a business thing it makes more cash.  Jigs are definitely the way to go if you have to build multiples or if you just happen to like what you ended up with. I have built jigs AFTER completing some jobs so I could repeat them at will. Attached Images
Reply:That's a nice gate, Bob.  I have absolutely zero imagination and skill when it comes to designing them.  I'd have to pretty much copy one to have it come out worth looking at.
Reply:That's really nice Bob!  How do you make those spirals?Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 Stick Linde HDA-300 MillerMatic DVI MIG Miller Dynasty 200DX Hypertherm Powermax 1000
Reply:Bob, very nice job.On the fabrication end, I guess I fall into the camp that enjoys welding together stock parts.  The challenge is much more in the design of how to arrange the myriad of available stock parts into a pleasing whole.I have to admit I struggle with it, but in the end it's fun and where I live (Philadelphia) there are many examples of fine old work to use as "inspiration" (or to shamelessly attempt to mimic well). I think that designing and building from scratch, as you did, takes a lot of imagination (and also a lot of patience).  I've never been much of an artist, so I "stick to my knitting" as it were.  There are still plenty of opportunities to make stuff that's different from what many potential customers are used to seeing available for them.Last edited by phila.renewal; 06-15-2007 at 08:17 AM.Favorite right now is a Miller Syncro 200.Tons of tools and I blame at least one of them when things don't go right.
Reply:Carl26,Those spirals are just twisted 1/2" solid bar.I built a twister and twisted them in 20' lengths then cut to fit. This way they are all twisted the exact same amount.
Reply:Beautiful gate there Bob, do you forge your scrolls on anvil or have a scroll bender or jig? Thanks for sharing!
Reply:I'll add another - very nice gate Bob, great work! I think you found your other niche! John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Thanks everyone for the kind words.The scrolls are made by drawing them on the welding table with soapstone. Then forge them to shape and adjust until they match the drawing. I don't make many things that look like other things I've made so I don't use that many jigs. As for another niche. I just need to find one that pays the bills. RND66,Sorry, I did not mean to hijack your thread.
Reply:Unbelievable Bob!!I'm glad to see you found a means..And a very cool one at that.. Keep it up my friend.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.