basic tig set-up

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i have an inverter tig/stick and was wondering how easy it wold be to learn to tig on it. it is only scratch start and fixed amps. any tips for making it easier to learn on?http://datingsidorsingel.com/
Reply:It's like learning to play golf.  Getting started is easy enough and then you can spend a lifetime trying to get everything just right.  It can be very satisfying.To get started, one thing that might help is to watch the Ron Covell and/or the HTP TIG basics dvds.  You can rent them or buy them.  It will likely save you a good bit of trial and error getting started.Which TIG inverter do you have?Favorite right now is a Miller Syncro 200.Tons of tools and I blame at least one of them when things don't go right.
Reply:I'm guessing it is the HF one?  I had that for a while and it isn't a bad unit. I did find the lift-arc start rather spotty though, maybe I just never quite got the hang of it.Cut up a ton of scrap and start sticking things together - there is no substitute for experience.- John
Reply:its the smootharc 170 from boc. if you like i can email you the brochure, cant upload it cos its just too big.http://datingsidorsingel.com/
Reply:It can be hard to learn for some and easier for others.  If you have ever gas welded (oxy/acetylene) then it will feel very familiar to you.  If not then it will be very different than anything you've ever done and can be very frustrating at first.As said already in this thread you should get some way if seeing the process in action like a DVD, or even take a night/weekend class at a local community college just to get someone showing you the right way to setup and run a bead so you don't learn bad habits.  Then once you get some basic instruction embedded in your head it's all practice.If you decide to start on your own, just remember your material needs to be VERY clean.  Buy some stainless wire brushes.   Use one for cleaning real dirty pieces off and then once it's pretty clean use the other brush to get the remaining stuff off this way you aren't putting dirt/rust/grease into your material that wasn't there before.  Then clean your brushes in acetone then distilled water after each use.  A bottle of acetone is good to have on hand too btw.I'd recommend starting on mild steel about 1/8" thick first.  It melts easier and is easier to run a bead on than stainless or aluminum or other alloys.  It's also the cheapest stuff to buy.  And you will be going through a lot.  If you have the garage space then i'd say go out and buy a 4'x4' sheet of 1/8" mild steel and cut it up into pieces about 1-3" wide and 6-12" long and just start welding them together.  Make sure you make the cuts perfectly straight.  I like using a skillsaw with a metal blade on thin stuff like that because being a carpenter I can run a perfectly straight cut on that stuff the same way a large expensive cutting device would.  Won't cost you too much $$ for that piece of steel and will last you a LONG time.  Practice flat with no joint to get the hang of the 'dance' of tig welding then move on to different joints, positions, open roots and other things.Do you have a torch, bottle, regulator, consumables yet?  If not and if you have the $$ and are serious about learning TIG welding i'd say get a watercooled torch and either buy or make a watercooler.  If you don't, then later on down the line you will end up getting one anyways and will find yourself putting the aircooled torch on a shelf somewhere to collect dust.  One reason I suggest the watercooled is that it will be easier to learn with.  Your torch won't heat up so quick and the torch will be half the size and will handle twice the amperage.Note the difference in the two torches.  (ignore the missing piece on the aircooled)  The one on the left is watercooled, the one on the right is aircooled.  The watercooled on the left is 250amps.  The aircooled on the right is 125-150amps.  The aircooled is larger, twice as heavy, bulky (even without the contactor switch) and gets real hot real fast which can make learning harder.Oh, and post pics of your first welds so we can look at them and help you out.  Many of these guys here can look at a weld and tell you what you are doing wrong as you are learning such as "too hot/cold, too fast/slow, too much/little filler material, more/less gas etc...".Last edited by WelderBoy; 07-15-2007 at 04:01 PM.
Reply:here's a link with some action pointers. This guy is pretty good and helpfull I've interacted with him before on other on-line communities - look to the far left of his page the last 2 are good to seehttp://www.weldinginspectionsvcs.com/PicsandVideos.htmMartin MC Weld TechAWS-CWIAWS-CWEwww.linkedin.com/pub/martin-cramer/20/b36/940/
Reply:thanks for all the advice guys. especially welderboy. i havnt got the stuff yet but will probly sometime after i get my drop saw. is a watercooled torch really neccesary for hobby use?http://datingsidorsingel.com/
Reply:This may go against popular advice, but I've had no problems whatsoever using an air-cooled torch for hobby use. For me a water-cooler sounds like more trouble than it's worth, for my limited use.Just my 2 cents. Maybe you'd never go back after having water-cooled, but don't let it stop you from starting with air-cooled and saving some dough.- John
Reply:No, you don't NEED a watercooled torch, but if you plan on welding any heavy material you will need it.  It is a luxury for some, but it is worth it.  They are smaller and lighter and don't heat up like air-cooled.If you are doing only a little bit at a time on light gauge material and you are on a budget then you can get away with an air-cooled torch with no problems.
Reply:We welded a grill of 3/16 to 1/4" plate.  About 150" of weld total.  Some was done all at once, some was done is parts.  We were running from 100 to 180 amps.  This was all the torch could handle.  If you are going to do more than that, get water cooled.  If less, don't bother save your money and get to tigging.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I have a 150amp aircooled torch that got toasted running at around 75-80 amps.  The internal parts fused together.  The gas was a few cfs too low.  After that I setup my watercooler that had been collecting dust and will never go back.
Reply:Told you I'd be going against popular advice Maybe it's like a pedal, once you try you'll never go back. Just don't let the lack of water-cooled stop you from getting started.- John
Reply:i would almost definatly use the stick function for heavier stuff. only probly end up using bout 100-140ish amps on the tig anyway. just for the stuff that would go in the house or what people can see straight away. only for weld bout 3" absolute max because i would probly use stick because of the speed. im a while away from getting the tig torch though  because i have to get my cut-off saw first and some steel. im not overly fussed about the size of it, just so long as it works. thanks for the helphttp://datingsidorsingel.com/