First Ever TIG Weld - Pics

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This was my first attempt at TIG, I have been out of the loop for a while but bought a Sync 250DX. I didn't have any filler wire and this material was pretty thick. The crack on the left is where I made a pass and broke it to see how much penetration I had. I tried to back out easy on the pedal to keep from blowing out at the end but without filler metal I couldn't keep a true puddle once the pipe turned away from the plate edge. The plate was dirty but I tried to clean it with contact cleaner and a rag(no flap disk). Thanks for any input. What is anyones take on the black specks? They seem to be superficial. I didn't detect any porosity.Glad to finally be able to burn some material.EDIT: Oh Yeah, 250 Amps 60/40 AC Attached ImagesLast edited by Blackcypress-EB; 07-17-2007 at 12:35 AM.
Reply:It's great to have a TIG. The holes and the black is contamination. You were running at 250 amps? Seems a bit hot as well but how thick was the material...3/8 inch? Get some filler wire and keep practicing! Practice makes perfect. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Better then i could do at the moment!Im such a newbe, got to find ground some how
Reply:Its a pain in the butt to weld al with out filler.  The black spots could be aluminum oxide from your flap wheel.  It don't weld very well.  Glad you got started.  I see much better stuff in your future.  Nice machine.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Thanks for the comments and compliments. I figured out that I was in HF start only, and should have been in HF cont. for Al. I went and got some consumables today. I picked up a pound of 3/32 E70S2 and a half pound of 3/32 ER4043. I also picked up a couple 2% Thor. 3/32 and same size pure tungstens. What kind of flap disk should I be using to limit Al. oxide contamination? Are there any brands that are affordable but good for a 4 1/2" grinder? Thanks,BCP.S. The material was 3/8", but I may not have been that deep in the pedal to get a full 250A.
Reply:Rather than a flap disk, get a stainless wire wheel for your grinder.  My understanding is that practically any type of disk is going to cause contamination as the abrasive particles on the disk wear off.  Stainless doesn't.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Originally Posted by smithboyRather than a flap disk, get a stainless wire wheel for your grinder.  My understanding is that practically any type of disk is going to cause contamination as the abrasive particles on the disk wear off.  Stainless doesn't.
Reply:I will be sharpening my tungsten on a 72" belt grinder (dust everywhere), I planned on going with all ceriated but read that it is better suited to lower amp DC. There is so much crap to wade through on what is good for what. I am a keep it simple stupid kind of guy, if one will do it all, I want it. But I  would get ceriated given the chance if it will hold up to higher DC amps like the red stuff. Duly noted on the SS wire wheel and dropping the pure. I went to the diamondground site and they didn't mention a downfall to ceriated, looks like I will get a pack of that and screw some stuff up. Is there a definitive cheap tungsten supplier that doesn't charge more for shipping than the tungsten. I found one or two of those. My local supplier charges $2.89 a piece for 7" 3/32Th  but doesn't have anything else besides red and green.Thanks for the advice.
Reply:Sounds like you are in for some fun when all that stuff gets there.  I had to try most of the types of tungston.  Now I use red.I buy aluminum grinding disks at my LWS.  They cost about as much as the type 27 ones for steel.  I think $2.85 each.  They don't load up and won't contaminate your aluminum as long as that is all you use them on.  I also use them to grind off galvanized because they don't load up.Try weldingdepot.com.  I buy a lot from them.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by Blackcypress-EBThanks for the comments and compliments. I figured out that I was in HF start only, and should have been in HF cont. for Al. I went and got some consumables today. I picked up a pound of 3/32 E70S2 and a half pound of 3/32 ER4043. I also picked up a couple 2% Thor. 3/32 and same size pure tungstens. What kind of flap disk should I be using to limit Al. oxide contamination? Are there any brands that are affordable but good for a 4 1/2" grinder? Thanks,BCP.S. The material was 3/8", but I may not have been that deep in the pedal to get a full 250A.
Reply:Ok, don't use 2%Th for alum. - that's for mild
Reply:Originally Posted by Blackcypress-EBI will be sharpening my tungsten on a 72" belt grinder (dust everywhere), I planned on going with all ceriated but read that it is better suited to lower amp DC. There is so much crap to wade through on what is good for what. I am a keep it simple stupid kind of guy, if one will do it all, I want it. But I  would get ceriated given the chance if it will hold up to higher DC amps like the red stuff. Duly noted on the SS wire wheel and dropping the pure. I went to the diamondground site and they didn't mention a downfall to ceriated, looks like I will get a pack of that and screw some stuff up. Is there a definitive cheap tungsten supplier that doesn't charge more for shipping than the tungsten. I found one or two of those. My local supplier charges $2.89 a piece for 7" 3/32Th  but doesn't have anything else besides red and green.Thanks for the advice.
Reply:I picked up a couple Stainless wheels and a few things. My gas lenses, collets, nozzles, and other junk came in. I traded out some motorcycle work for a little 5x8 trailer that I put a floor and some channel in. This machine is going to make me a happy man. Now I just need to get my hands on a plasma cutter and a ... aww hell, it never ends. Attached Images
Reply:Welcome to the asylum.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by z0diacOk, don't use 2%Th for alum.  - that's for mild steel.  Use either pure tungsten or zirconium.  As someone previously said, that "black stuff" is the layer of oxide that aluminum forms very quickly when in air.  The best way to get rid of it quickly?  Get a stainless steel wire wheel that you can fit on your grinder.  Or a stainess welding brush.Also, you shouldn't need continuous HF if you've got a relatively new tig welder.  The continous HF is for the older welders that used an analog wave that dropped to 0 each time it went through the cycle, meaning the arc would be hard to maintain.  So the HF was there to keep initiating the arc.  But with the new welders that have digital waves, you're *always* in the 100% positive then 100% negative, so the wave never passes through zero, so continuous HF isn't needed.'hope this helps!Enjoy - tig'ing aluminum can be quite a joy when you've got it down pat (I'm new to tig aluminum myself, and have only been in that 'zone' a few times...  just need more practice).I've also found that aluminum filler rod is not as forgiving as mild steel rod if you let it stray out of your shielding gas zone...