Do you think I could build a ladder rack with this?

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http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/pr...romSearch=trueNeed a ladder rack for a 96 Ford Ranger but I want to build it myself. Not sure about the gauge of steel either.
Reply:Try again...dead-ends at the postal code.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:here we go, It's $180 bucks.Features    * Power: 120V    * Output current: 50 - 70 A    * Metal thickness: 18-gauge to 1/8"    * Duty-cycle: 10% at 70 A; 20% at 50 A    * Electrodes used: 1/16, 5/64"    * Two heat settings with 1/16¿ or 5/64¿ welding rods    * Thermal overload protection    * Easy-start ensures smoother arc    * Includes electrode, welding shield, hammer/brush, welding rods and cord storage attachments    * Three-year manufacturer's repair warranty
Reply:no, i think the ladders would fall off.
Reply:As for the material to build with, that would depend on it's intended use. Loads and all that. Do you have a bender or are you planning  on boxing it ? I've only built 2 and the square tube was sized to the vehicles they were made for to not look out of place. I used 1 1/4 for an S10 rack...Ranger would be about the same to me depending on it's designed for.Hey...I have a battery charger that looks like that welder...naw...JK. I'll leave that part alone...I'm not very PC when it comes to machines.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:I think it will do the job. Just like any other piece of machinery, it needs a good operator.  Learn to use it before you build the rack.  It will be fine.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I built a rack for a ranger.  I used 1.5"sq 11g.  1.5 fits perfectly in the holes.  I was very stout.  I didcarry 1000lbs of steel at 20ft with no noticeable flex. Though more regularly it is used to carry upto 600lbs.  The rack is now on my trailer.  I would say you could easily go with 14 or 16 g for a ladder rack.  I made one out 16 g for a f350 to carry ladders.I used a century 110v mig for each rack.  I think it was rated at 90 amps on 20amp circuit breaker.
Reply:The Ranger rack I built was with 1 1/4 sch 40 pipe. That unit could possibly do it, but with those tiny rods and the small duty cycle, it would tax the unit pretty badly and would take a very long time. A 180 class MIG would be a lot easier...a 140 class with flux core could do it as well.The thinner the stock, the better it will do, but then the less the rack could handle.I can post a pic or two if you want some ideas about the Ranger Rack.
Reply:You guys have any pictures of your racks (that almost doesn't sound right)for the Ranger?  A ladder/material rack for my 92' Ranger is on my project list.
Reply:Here is the one I did. Nothing fancy, but strong as all get out...kinda heavy, too. He designed it, I built it, he prepped and painted it. Attached Images
Reply:Here is another one. FWIW, it is 48.5"  clear on the top rack area. He wanted to be able to haul 4x8's or whatever he wanted....and he does.  The end and middle cross pieces are pinned and removeable just in case. Attached Images
Reply:Is that angle Iron along the top of the box? That looks very good.For the top it, it looks a little heavy for me, I think I have that kind of pipe on my Sierra and it's VERY heavy.I'm only going to be carrying ladders, a 16 ft, and 20ft and sometimes a 32 (this ones heavy).@olddad- I don't have a bender but plan on renting/buying a cut off wheel.
Reply:Thanks, Vikings. Yup, that is 3x2x3/16 angle along the bed rails and 2x2x3/16 at the cab. It is heavy. The 1 1/4 sch 40 has a 3/16 +/- wall. You could always use tubing in say 16 ga or even 11 ga. That would work well and lighten it up considerably. I didn't use a bender, I just bought weld elbows and ground everything smooth. They make a sheetmetal elbow for tubing. It is about 11 ga IIRC. It has an extra seam that would need to be welded and ground down, too....which is why I rarely use them.
Reply:I really like how it dove tails in to follow the lines of the cab and thanks for mentioning they build elbows (never knew that). It even has the swinging/removable back part. Need that in winter when I do snow but did you weld a bar across the front of the rack? (over the cab's front)I've been eying out ladder racks on other trucks this summer and where they don't dove tail in, just go straight up.. it really is not that great looking. I would like it to be at least three ladders wide on top but NOW that I think of it, two ladders wide would be ok. I don't carry the big ladder too much anymore.I just might go with a lighter gauge and make it round, the one on my bigger truck is round and it's great but it doesn't go over the cab at all.
Reply:Yeah, it has three bars welded in...one at the end at the windshield, one just short of 8' from the back for sheets, and one at the cab set of uprights. I may have a pic...I'll look in a minute. The uprights were a PAIN, but they came out ok. I just drew what I wanted on my table and cut and bent and cut some more and bent some more until it fit.  Once they fit the picture, they were welded and ground down.The removeable bars were easy. I made a socket of the same 1 1/4 pipe and used a short piece of 1" for the insert. I believe they were around 3-4" long. They were drilled to take a 1/4 wire clipped safety pin. I didn't like the strength of the rear socket, so I plated it inside and out. Turns out that was a good idea. He beats on that one pretty regularly. Attached ImagesLast edited by DDA52; 09-08-2007 at 01:32 AM.
Reply:As a guy that used to carry and use ladders a lot years ago, I really liked the wide (thin if need be) angle iron side rails. Angle center rails were nice too if you use the same width ladders in the same locations all the time. The angle gives a nice surface to slide the ladders on and off with full length support. Nice round stock on the tail end to make them slide easier. No scarfing that way. Just some thoughts.
Reply:Looks great DDA52.
Reply:Thanks, GL.
Reply:Vikings, I'm pretty much a hobby weldor but, I've been doing it for about 40 years. I have a 230 amp stick welder and an O/A outfit. My neighbor got a small welder with the same output as the one you're looking at. He wanted me to show him how to use it.  It was all I could do to keep the rod "lit". Just junk! I would run, not walk, away from that one you're considering. You need something a little bigger. My 230 amp Craftsman welder goes all the way down to 40 amps but I rarely use it at anything less than 90. Those little stick machines are topped out at about where you need to start. Just my 2 cents worth.Dave
Reply:I just don't see why anybody would send that kind of money on little toy welders when with little effort one can usually find a used 230 volt 180-230 amp welder for $100-$150. If you must go with a 120 volt welder get the very best welder you can find. The difference between a 70 amp and a 90-100 amp machine would be night and day but I'd still get a used 230 volt machine if you have 230 volt power available.