Hard time stick welding....argh

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I am having a hard time learning to stick weld. When using 7018 rods rated at 90 amps and trying to weld 3/16 steel, I cannot seem to get the weld started. If I push up to 120 then I can get it started but sometimes I can weld only a few inches the other times the rod just sticks. Is the amperage really that finicky like does 1 or 2 amps make a real difference?? Any tips you can give me would be great. It is really frusterating. I like to do things right and like to make my work strong and look good. Sometimes I can lay some good welds with good penetration then the next time I can't do anything right.Last edited by Stickbug; 10-18-2007 at 09:57 PM.
Reply:First of all, what size rod are you using?Yes, 1-2amps can make a difference for a seasoned stick welder, but a beginner probably won't notice much if any difference until it gets to around +/- 7-10 amps or so.
Reply:Sorry forgot that part ....3/32"
Reply:90 amps should be plenty.Is your polarity correct?  Is your welding rod wet or has it been wet in the past?  Are you using a rod oven?  Those can cause problems, mainly the moisture problem.Also, a bad ground connection can do that too.Are you pushing the rod into the steel too hard?  It shouldn't touch, but should be just far enough away where it doesn't touch.  If you do that, it shouldn't stick.If you pull it away, how far can you stretch that arc before it extinguishes?  Also, get a multimeter and see what your machine is outputting.  The outlet your welder is running off of may not be putting out enough juice to your welder.
Reply:Originally Posted by WelderBoyIs your polarity correct?
Reply:About the polarity, you can run 7018 on DC+, DC-, or AC.  However, you will run hotter and have less chance of sticking on DCEP.  The Positive (+) side on your welder going to your stinger, and the negative (-) to your ground clamp.Yes, the ground is the clamp that goes to your workpiece.Have you had problems in the past on this machine or other machines?  It may just be your technique, or it may be your machine.  You need to scratch the workpiece real fast and pull away from the workpiece for about a second while the tip of the rod heats up and burns back and recesses into the flux layer, then bring it back down and start welding.  If your flux is knocked off it will tend to stick very easily.  So try a brand new rod if you haven't yet.That's all I got...if you have a friend with a welder, try theirs at their shop, then try it at your shop, then try your welder at their shop.  Then you should have it narrowed down by then as to your problem.
Reply:Kind of sounds like DC rods on AC... ( just a scientific wild a$$ guess, with limited information available )  What kind of welder you running these on?
Reply:Originally Posted by slamdvwKind of sounds like DC rods on AC... ( just a scientific wild a$$ guess, with limited information available )  What kind of welder you running these on?
Reply:would nasty metal do that?
Reply:Originally Posted by blastingcoffeewould nasty metal do that?
Reply:I've never felt the need to "pull away" with 7018. I've always let the weight of the rod drag along the workpeice. A real light touch, almost neutral, only keeping the weight of the stinger off the rod. I know an air-gap is recommended but I can pass x-rays, UT's and destructive tests all day long manipulating the rod in this fashion.I agree he's using the wrong rod for his settings.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:I hope this takes some of the guess work out of my inability to produce good welds.Last edited by Stickbug; 10-19-2007 at 09:17 PM.
Reply:That'd do it.  Get some 7018ac rods.  Your machine is an AC output machine.  Not that that's a bad thing, just a different animal.
Reply:So what your saying is that I hAve been using dc rods this whole time???  That explains everything then. So how do I tell which are ac and which are dc rods?? What do I look for on the box?? I am a noob at this. Only had a welder for 1 year and I am all self taught.
Reply:And can somebody explin to me the difference between primary and secondary on my machine?? And when would I switch between high range and low range??
Reply:in 45 years, I have never heard of a 7018AC rod, is it newSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:Low for fine adjustment and High for coarse adj and abve 150 Amps.SMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:Originally Posted by weldgaultin 45 years, I have never heard of a 7018AC rod, is it new
Reply:With an AC machine you will be better off using some 7014's or 6013's or 6012's. They are rutile and suit that type of machine, for years most shops used ac machines and some great things were built, now we are spoiled with choices and seem to forget where we came from. I just picked up one for $50 at a garage sale plus a packet of rods thrown in that cost $50. Works fine, I have no need for it so I'm giving it to my son.Clive
Reply:Like said above, get some 6013 or 7014 or even 6011, they all run on AC.  Life will be much easier.  Show us your stuff when you get the new rod.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Would 7014 be okay to weld together my winch bumper??
Reply:How is your connection between the cables and the ground clam and electrode holder?  I had some corrosion on mine and it wouldnt weld very well with lower settings.
Reply:and to answer your other question, primary is the incoming side of the transformer, secondary is the output side...  They're just listing the specs for you.
Reply:6013, 6011  and 7014 is what I can use with my ac machine like david r said.It tells on the boxes but I believe 7014 would penetrate the least of the three.You'll get the hang of it I would like to have a dc welder but just can't justify it right now.But I have alot of fun with it and it will work for small repairs. Good Luckpro-level dumpster diver                                     Hobart 125EZ
Reply:Hi Stickbug! I worked for a guy out in the misson area with a welder just like the one you pictured here. LOL it has been 10 years since, so that may even be the very same welder I used to try and weld with! If this is the same welder then don't use anything larger than 3/32 as the amperage control is busted.E7018ac rods while not impossible, they are difficult to find and many welding suppliers in this area do not stock these rods.  I agree with DavidR and clive on their posts, try using E6013, E7014, ect. they are better suited for welding with AC and many stores such as Canadian Tire, Home Depot,Princess Auto carry these rods.Good luck and keep us informed on your progress!I bought this machine from a guy in burnaby 1 year ago. Not sure how long he had it or sure who had the welder before that. So the 'E' before the rod # signifies that they are ac rods?? I have welded with 7014 rods with good success in the past. I thought I would try the 7018's because of their strength. I will try the other rods and post back.Thanx for everybody's help thus far.
Reply:No! the E stands for Electrode, 70 is for the Tensil Strength of the Rod.SMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:The classification of rods EXXX, E being electrode, E60XX 60 being 60,000 lb tensile per squ.inch and E70XX being 70,000.As an indicator to the strength, as a rough rule mild steel is 59,000 to 60,000 tensile so that gives you an idea of the strength.