Camaro door hinge upgrade- what steel for oversize pins?

admin

I'm probably blowing this out of proportion, but...My late 70's Camaro doors are very hard on the hinge bushings. The little 11/32 pin through bronze bushings just doesn't last well, and these are notorious for wearing out quickly and sagging.Not my picture, but the same application: I'd like to upgrade to at least 1/2" shafts, and at least double the thickness of the hinge at the bushing (and double the length of the bronze bushing to match).What would be a good pin material to use? I don't have a tool post grinder, so polishing will have to be by hand in the lathe after cutting with a HSS tool. I don't have ready access to heat treat equipment except for my oxy-acetylene torch, unless I farm it out- but I'm probably blowing it out of proportion to consider that anyway.Any suggestions for what steel alloy I should use for the pins? Other suggestions/ideas?  I'm considering using 4340 with a simple oxy/acetylene heat and quench in a bucket of water at this point.  Is this a bad choice?Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC, Millermatic 252 & 30A spoolgun, Thermal Arc 185 TIG, Miller BWESmith Oxy-AcBridgeport 2J , South Bend 42" 9AHusky 7.5 HP 22.3 CFM 80 gal compressor
Reply:How about a piece of drill rod?
Reply:I considered it, was a little concerned that it might be too brittle.  Your thoughts?Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC, Millermatic 252 & 30A spoolgun, Thermal Arc 185 TIG, Miller BWESmith Oxy-AcBridgeport 2J , South Bend 42" 9AHusky 7.5 HP 22.3 CFM 80 gal compressor
Reply:If the drill rod is already hardened (and brittle), then you can just temper it 'down' in hardness and that will reduce the brittleness.  Still a little too hard for you?  Temper it again at a little higher temperature.Oh, and for -most- home quenching of steel, use oil as the quenching medium instead of water.  Unless you really know what you are doing and are dealing with something like a water-hardening steel like W-1.Yeah, 4340 would probably work.  Probably overkill for a hinge pin.  Plain old 1/2 inch dia mild steel in an oilite bushing should last a while.  After all, how many times are you going to open and close the door?
Reply:I´d say try first a hardened pin, the same size you already have. It´s easy to obtain and you don´t have to modify anything else...and like moonrise said, use an oilite bushing if neededMy Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3   4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:I think I've settled on 41L40.  A bit easier to machine, but still tough when heat treated.How much should I expect to pay for a quench-and-temper heat treatment at a local machine shop?Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC, Millermatic 252 & 30A spoolgun, Thermal Arc 185 TIG, Miller BWESmith Oxy-AcBridgeport 2J , South Bend 42" 9AHusky 7.5 HP 22.3 CFM 80 gal compressor
Reply:if you got some A2, you wouldn't need to worry about heat treating. most stock hinges are not heat treated from what i understand. if you are worried about the door sagging, throw another hinge on it. if you are going through this much trouble for a door hinge, it's probably much easier to get a couple new ones.later,Andy
Reply:Why not look into "shoulderbolts"They come in all diffrent sizes..They have a allen head top..Sorta look like this..Sorry about the drawing..But the main "body" is semi hard and come in all diffrent sizes and lengths..The nut size is smaller than the body so they can be used for hinges and such..Just a thought.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:The free-machining leaded-steels may machine easier, but that's typically NOT why I spec or use a 'good' steel.And they often aren't weldable.As to pricing on a few pieces for quench-n-temper, I have no idea what that would run you.
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRiseThe free-machining leaded-steels may machine easier, but that's typically NOT why I spec or use a 'good' steel.And they often aren't weldable.As to pricing on a few pieces for quench-n-temper, I have no idea what that would run you.
Reply:Zap:I checked briefly on shoulder bolts. The ground surface definitely looks promising. Any idea what the strength of the alloy is?
Reply:An Unbrako shoulder bolt is Rc=36-43, tensile strength of 160 ksi and shear strength of 96 ksi.Removing the head and threads if you don't need them will be 'tough'.If you don't need the features of a shoulder bolt, why use one?  Probably easier and cheaper to just get a length of already hardened drill rod or such.But yeah, using a shoulder bolt for a pulley shaft or an axle is what they are made for.  Among other things.